Curt front hitch--OK for winching?

[STLDAVE]

Thought I would get some opinions from people more knowledgeable than me.

I contacted Curt Mfg about their front hitch and removable winch mount. They indicated both items have a straight line pull rating of 9000 lbs. and the winch mount drops to half that for a 45 degree pull. They mentioned the mount specifically which I assume is the limiting factor.

SO, is this thing usable for overland type wheeling? For use in the rocks? What would the limitations be?

Since my TE is also my DD, I thought I could leave the winch at home until I hit the trails, but wondered if this would work. Warn also makes a hitch type winch mount but they haven't given me any data yet.

 

[homeyclaus]

Can one do this? Yes.

Is it as good as a proper winch mount? No, especially with off-angle winching. This is offset somewhat by the fact that if you have your winch on a hitch mount, you can also mount your winch on the back of your 4Runner and winch out backwards if you need to (and thought ahead to run power for the winch to the back).

 

[STLDAVE]

Thanks Homey,

Anybody else want to put their two cents worth in?

 

[scojoe]

I have the Curt front hitch on mine and plan on using it for this. from what ive read here and 120. i wont think twice about using it. it mounts to frame same as a winch plate does. And uses you existing tow points. I wouldn't hang it off a cliff with this setup but this is a daily driver not a full blown rock crawler fwiw

 

[brockeverly]

Can you, sure. Good idea, that is debatable.

I normally use my front hitch to straighten my trailer and get it out of sticky situations in campsites or pulling firewood. I do not know that I would winch with it aside from light use.

 

[KidVermicious]

I have the Curt front hitch on mine and plan on using it for this. from what ive read here and 120. i wont think twice about using it. it mounts to frame same as a winch plate does. And uses you existing tow points. I wouldn't hang it off a cliff with this setup but this is a daily driver not a full blown rock crawler fwiw

The problem isn't so much how the hitch plate mounts to the frame, as the hitch tube itself. A proper winch cradle spreads the pull over several mounting locations - with a hitch mounted winch, all the force is concentrated on the hitch tube. As noted, ok for straight pulls, but sketchy for side pulls. I'd be sure to get a winch rated for less than the straight line pull rating, and be very careful if you use a snatch block or doubler.

 

[rebelbowtie]

The problem isn't so much how the hitch plate mounts to the frame, as the hitch tube itself. A proper winch cradle spreads the pull over several mounting locations - with a hitch mounted winch, all the force is concentrated on the hitch tube. As noted, ok for straight pulls, but sketchy for side pulls. I'd be sure to get a winch rated for less than the straight line pull rating, and be very careful if you use a snatch block or doubler.

You make good points except for the snatch block, that won't put any extra load on the winch.

 

[JAH-T4R]

I myself have been looking for a good front receiver for the express purpose of using a multi-mount winch. Like STLDAVE, my TE is also my DD so I don't need the extra weight of a SW bumper (at least that’s what the wife tells me). But I haven't been able to find a front receiver that I was happy with. In my opinion the curt receivers sit too low, at least when it comes to being a recovery point. I also don't care for the way they mount to the front tie downs.

The best receiver I was able to track down was one built by CBI but they only have models for the 4th Gen. I have a tentative appointment upon my return to the states to hand over the keys while they fabricate for me a set of sliders and the front receiver.

I’m not sure if you have purchased the curt receiver yet or not, but this might be a viable option for others in the near future.

 

[STLDAVE]

The problem isn't so much how the hitch plate mounts to the frame, as the hitch tube itself. A proper winch cradle spreads the pull over several mounting locations - with a hitch mounted winch, all the force is concentrated on the hitch tube. As noted, ok for straight pulls, but sketchy for side pulls. I'd be sure to get a winch rated for less than the straight line pull rating, and be very careful if you use a snatch block or doubler.

So, realistically, what percentage of pulls would be more than, say 20 degrees off straight? Or 30 degrees?

I will be doing overland type wheeling mostly, so how common will side pulls (> 20-30 degrees) be?

 

[rebelbowtie]

30° pull will cut your rated line pull strength in half. You want to stay 60-90° as your rated line pull is 90°

 

[STLDAVE]

30° pull will cut your rated line pull strength in half. You want to stay 60-90° as your rated line pull is 90°

First, just want to make sure we are talking the same language. When I say 20 degrees I'm referring to an angle of 20 degrees off of straight ahead (straight ahead being the 0 degree reference point), but I think you are using 90 degrees as the straight ahead reference point. Is that correct?

Second, I know that the pull rating will decrease as you get further from straight ahead, but where do you get the 30 degree pull rating of half that you mention? Is that winch mount or winch? And again, is that 30 degrees off the nose, or off perpendicular?

I also looked at the install instructions for the mount and it says,

"For Maximum line pull rating, winch cable must not exceed:
- 15 degree angle up or down from horizontal...
- 45 degree angle left or right from straight ahead..."

This seems to be a conflict with what the Curt representative told me (see first thread posting) so I guess I need to get them to clarify this.

Anybody with more to contribute please feel free. I believe the more info the better the decision and this is NOT my area of expertise.

 

[rebelbowtie]

From a rigging stand point straight line pulls are 90° sorry if there was a little confusion

 

[STLDAVE]

From a rigging stand point straight line pulls are 90° sorry if there was a little confusion

Good to know. That's why I'm posing the questions here, it's not my area of expertise.

 

[phillyd2]

Moving from the technical to the practical, if you will not be going with a bumper or budbuilt winch plate the only other option is what you are considering.

I view a winch as a insurance policy which I hope to never use but sure as hell would never want to need one and not have it.

So, I would go with Curt setup. Between the front and back hitch you should be able to fine a 'good enough' angle to get you out of a jam.

Is it the best option? No. Is it better than nothing? Absolutely!

Look into quick connectors for the wires and pre wire both front and rear.

 

[scojoe]

+ 1 And stay away from the Missouri mud pits or you will be buying a new set of carpets to go with your new winch

 

[Michigander]

I just picked one up. I plan to use it as a recovery point.

Making a connection between both frame rails and the tie down loops should be pretty stout for a pull point.

Receiver tubing is beefy stuff, it would take a big yank to bend that hitch.

The biggest reason for buying it, radiator and AC condenser protection. When I took off the lower air dam and exposed the bottom front end, I was not comfortable with how exposed the bottom of the radiator and AC condenser is for trail riding. The hitch should help protect that area. And for $150, I would not be able to get a tube support fab'd for that cost.