CV axle boot blew up now what?

kmiller93

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What should I replace the boots with? Its just a matter of time till the rest go.

With this broken anything I should worry about while driving to the shop to have fixed?

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I also just saw something about a grey milkshake?

I had my passenger side inner boot torn (exactly the same way as yours) for the past 2 years and drove across the country, and had no problem!

Bought a boot kit from rock auto for $18 shipped and installed it by my self. The toughest part is to remove the CV axle nut. IF you have the OEM axle, the nut is 35 mm and aftermarket CV's have 36 mm.
 
Money shot! This seems to be a recent topic around here. Mine looked exactly like that a few weeks back. If I recall you installed your lift not long ago (hope I'm correct but I remember looking at your rig, and it looked sweet.) The OE inner boots fail after moving them from their happy homes, then proceed to spray their goodness all over. I'd think if your axles were angry, you'd have already known. Solution would be to put long travel inner boots on (thanks DirtDawg!). Or, replace the axles with re-manned OEM's with long travels already installed. I chose to go replacement route which was much easier than re-booting and about a $40 difference. Went through CVJ Axles, Inc. in Denver. Here's the thread I posted if it helps http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/143267-i-dont-think-normal.html

Not to go off topic but I wonder if there could/should be a spot in the lift sticky aboot boots failing after lift installation? It seems to be a very common problem and something I would have thought about when researching my build. I don't know how to go about something like that or if it's relevant enough to warrant an amendment. Anyway, hope this helps-
 
If you don't have any issues with your CV axles themselves, then there is no reason to replace them. Just re-boot. I had my drivers side blow a month or so ago and re-booted with the OEM Toyota boot kit. One kit comes with new inner and outer boots, grease, and all new clamps for one side. I did both sides for precaution and replaced LBJs while I was at it.

You will just have to decide to do OEM or go long travel.
 
Thanks for the compliment. So you replaced the entire axle not just the boots? I read what dirtdawg said and ill prob buy some new boots.

I decided to do the the axles because of cost differential. The long travel inner boots, long travel outers + shipping is $200 +/-. The re-manned OEM axles with the long travel inners already installed was $260. There was no reason to believe that there was anything wrong with my originals other than being 17 yrs old. I've been replacing everything else under there so it was just logical choice for me if it was only a few dollars difference. Not to mention easier and a lot less messy -
 
Depends on how long you leave it torn. If you don't have the means to replace the boots within a month or so and drive it daily I would recommend replacing the whole axle. It will have spun without grease and with debris in it for a bit too long for my comfort. At that point you're just sealing it back up with crap in there. I advocate buying new ones and rebooting your old ones, after a thorough cleaning of course... then you have them as trail spares. If you can reboot them in time then it would be worth it to go that route. They will almost always blow after lifting your rig. It's science.
 
i would go strait to the shop. i won't hert it in the shot time but you don't want to let this go. i had one on a honda brake, because i didn't fix it right away. good thing i was close to home. i know there are repair kits for theses but not real easy to get on .talk to your machanic about them.
 
In response to Douglas.

It's ok to try something you don't know already. It's ok to learn. It's ok to get a little dirty. And most importantly, it's ok to save some dollars$$$$$$$$$.


Get greasy and replace the boots yourself. It's not that difficult. Then. Share our new knowledge w someone else who doesn't know how to do it. That's what it's all about
 
i would go strait to the shop. i won't hert it in the shot time but you don't want to let this go. i had one on a honda brake, because i didn't fix it right away. good thing i was close to home. i know there are repair kits for theses but not real easy to get on .talk to your machanic about them.

In response to Douglas.

It's ok to try something you don't know already. It's ok to learn. It's ok to get a little dirty. And most importantly, it's ok to save some dollars$$$$$$$$$.


Get greasy and replace the boots yourself. It's not that difficult. Then. Share our new knowledge w someone else who doesn't know how to do it. That's what it's all about

Yeah, become your own mechanic. I love figuring this stuff out and knowing the job was done right or at least twice....
 
So dealership says 600 for new axles and labor. Or I spend 250 for new boots and labor with my friend. Dealership said the axles may be going bad from age. Is that the dealership just trying to make money? I'm sure it is. Or could the bearings be going bad. It's only been torn open for a day.
 
So dealership says 600 for new axles and labor. Or I spend 250 for new boots and labor with my friend. Dealership said the axles may be going bad from age. Is that the dealership just trying to make money? I'm sure it is. Or could the bearings be going bad. It's only been torn open for a day.

CV change is extremely simple. You can replace both CV's with remans or new NAPA CV's for under $200. Or just reboot your OEM's. Don't listen to the dealership on this one, you will be kicking yourself after realizing you didn't need to spend an extra $400.

Remove your skid plate, loosen the hub nut, take the wheel off, remove the bolts from your LBJ, remove the hub nut, take a mallet to the CV, use a pry bar and hammer to knock the old CV out, grease the snap ring, install new CV.

Toyota Maintenance: CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas
 
I decided to finally do something about my torn CV boot so I looked around the forums and found this thread. From what I've read it sounds like some of you are worrying about driving with a torn CV boot for more than a day.




Now I have next to no knowledge about CV joints and axles but that boot (inner-right) has been torn like that ever since I bought my vehicle 2 and a half years ago... Is that bad?

As you can see, I have not, by any means, kept it clean down there. I've taken it on countless trips up on logging roads, over rough rocky roads, through deep snow and mud, and a few deep puddles. Yet I've never noticed any problems with it, my Runner drives fine in all gears both 2wd and 4wd.
 

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