CV Axle Replacement (HD Pictures)

RockyrT4R

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***TELL ME IF YOU CAN NOT SEE PICTURES/ASWELL AS WHAT YOUR VIEWING ON*** (ex. Ipad)
Hopefully in combination with @DT17's https://goo.gl/UCD3NP write up you will be able to easily do this!!
I Recently replaced my CV Axles using a write up by DT17 on this forum and thought I would try and add another write up.

Tools Needed:
-Jack (To Raise Vehicle)
-Lug Wrench (13/16" Socket-Stock Lug Size)
-Mallet/Hammer
-Screwdriver or something with thin edge.
-Needle Nose Pliers
-36MM Socket
-Breaker Bar (Or something of the sort)
-12,14,17MM Sockets
-Pry Bar
-Jack Stand
-Light (Optional)
-Oil Catch Pan/Bucket
-Paper Towels
-10MM Allen Key (Refill Diff Oil)

Parts Needed:
-Gear Oil (75w-90) (Amount Depends on how much you lose) 2 Should be enough easily)
-Replacement CV's (I used Napa; New with lifetime warranty)
-New Cotter Pins (If you have to cut them off)

1-Start by Loosening the lug nuts on the side your working on (just a little bit) then raise the side of the vehicle in which your replacing the CV with your Jack.

2-Now that the wheel is off the ground remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove tire.

3-Now use a Mallet/Hammer and a screwdriver with a thin edge to tap in-between the dust cap and the hub. Do this all the way around, once there is enough room between the cap to get a larger pry bar in use that to pop it off.


4-Next you use your needle nose pliers to bend the cotter pin and remove it and the little cap in front of the hub nut.



5-Now remove the Hub nut (36MM), if you have air tools it will zip right off, if not put the tire back on and secure with 2-4 lugs and lower vehicle just enough that there is pressure on the tire, now use a breaker bar with an extension on the handle if necessary and remove hub nut.

6-Raise tire back off the ground and remove, now remove hub nut from axle the rest of the way.

7- Now put a jack stand under the lower control arm and lower the car some so that you can unbolt the lower ball joint, after un-bolting the LBJ Jack it back up and let Lower control arm "droop". (You will have to do this again to get the spindle and LBJ to mate again in the end)

Info- I replaced brakes while I did CV's so I had the rotor and caliper removed; from the hub, I believe you can leave the brake assembly together if you aren't replacing brakes.

8- Now use a mallet with either a plastic or rubber surface (so you don't mushroom the axle bolt) To hit the axle some to loosen it up and get it moving so you can move the spindle and hub to the side. If needed you can use a normal hammer with some sort of wood in between.

9-Now that the spindle and brake assembly is free from the axle pull the spindle assembly away from the axle while making sure to push the axle end through and apart from the spindle and hub.

10-Once the spindle and hub is free from the axle move it to the side where it will be out of the way.

11-Now if your skid plates aren't already removed do that, then using a pretty long pry bar to pry the axle out of the diff (do this with common sense and watch out for bendable parts and seals!!)

12-Now that you have your CV out you will lose some oil, have your pan /bucket ready to catch oil. I put a paper towel in to try to lose less.

13-When putting new CV back in hold it strait and use your rubber or "plastirubber" hammer to knock the CV back in. MAKE SURE-that you have the splines lined up!

14- Now reassemble in the same way you took everything apart!

Torque Specs-
LBJ Bolts x4 59 FT-lbs
Hub Nut-179 FT-Lbs
Lug Nuts- 88FT-lbs

*Disclaimer* DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK;I HAVE CREATED THIS FOR LEARNING PURPOSES ONLY AND WILL TAKE NO LIABILITY FOR ANYTHING THAT HAPPENS BECAUSE OF THIS INFORMATION.
 
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RockyRT4R,

I'm interested to see how your CV's are holding up. Ive done a lot of research on what the best route is for replacing CV axle's and have yet to really pin point a "best" option. I've got a 3 inch ToyTec lift kit on my '02 3rd gen and my CV's have been shot for awhile. I had a shop replace one of mine about a year and a half ago and it did not hold up at all. I've heard mixed reviews about diff drop kits as well helping the CV angle. If you or anyone else could give me some insight on CV's it would be greatly appreciated. Anyways, thanks for posting and great looking 4runner :hatsoff:
 
13/16" is pretty much 21mm... which is the actual OEM lug nut size.

-Charlie

Thanks! LOL :hug:

20.6375 mm to be exact. It's a Japanese truck. No write ups should be in Standard sizes. That was my point. 21mm is the correct size to use.
 
Torque Specs-
LBJ Bolts x4 59 FT-lbs
Hub Nut-179 FT-Lbs
Lug Nuts- 88FT-lbs

The above torque is incorrect - it should be 37 ft/lbs. 59 will stretch the bolt way past its yield point. From the 96-02 4runner manual... THey're not a very high spec bolt for some reason. Designed to yield and not fracture I guess.
 
Torque Specs-
LBJ Bolts x4 59 FT-lbs
Hub Nut-179 FT-Lbs
Lug Nuts- 88FT-lbs

The above torque is incorrect - it should be 37 ft/lbs. 59 will stretch the bolt way past its yield point. From the 96-02 4runner manual... THey're not a very high spec bolt for some reason. Designed to yield and not fracture I guess.
There are 2 different LBJ bolts. Early design 96-00 are 59 ft/lbs. Later design 00-02 are 37 ft/lbs.
 
I don't think so. I work on surfs (albeit not 4runners but the same parts) a lot. The last one I did the guy had done exactly that and stretched all his bolts, they looked like masai women.....
The 96-02 4runner manual has the torque as 37ft/lbs. So does the prado 95 series manual. (same bits). Where does 59 come from?

I guess it's possible that the bolt that is now supplied is much softer after BJ failures?
 
I don't think so. I work on surfs (albeit not 4runners but the same parts) a lot. The last one I did the guy had done exactly that and stretched all his bolts, they looked like masai women.....
The 96-02 4runner manual has the torque as 37ft/lbs. So does the prado 95 series manual. (same bits). Where does 59 come from?

I guess it's possible that the bolt that is now supplied is much softer after BJ failures?

There was a revision for 01 and 02 which added a dust cover to the lower ball joint boot. With the revision they changed from a flange bolt to a bolt and washer. The flange bolt for the 96-00 model has a torque spec of 59ft-lbf and the bolt and washer for the 01 and 02 has a torque spec of 37ft-lbf. The service manual which is floating around online for 96-02 seems to actually be for an 01 or 02, so it has the lower torque spec in it. It has been discussed pretty thoroughly over in this thread.
 
I can't seems to post a pic but there is several lengths available.

90105-10406 96-00
90105-10505 00-01 32mm
90105-10933 01-02 38mm
THe latter for the 4runner LBJ cup thingee. (never seen a surf with these)

The last ones I fixed were the -10406, he still had the package. And there was no way (well they didn't) withstand 59 ftlbs.
 
There was a revision for 01 and 02 which added a dust cover to the lower ball joint boot. With the revision they changed from a flange bolt to a bolt and washer. The flange bolt for the 96-00 model has a torque spec of 59ft-lbf and the bolt and washer for the 01 and 02 has a torque spec of 37ft-lbf. The service manual which is floating around online for 96-02 seems to actually be for an 01 or 02, so it has the lower torque spec in it. It has been discussed pretty thoroughly over in this thread.

Yep, must be right then. I guess those part no bolts are harder.
 
I can't seems to post a pic but there is several lengths available.

90105-10406 96-00
90105-10505 00-01 32mm
90105-10933 01-02 38mm
THe latter for the 4runner LBJ cup thingee. (never seen a surf with these)

The last ones I fixed were the -10406, he still had the package. And there was no way (well they didn't) withstand 59 ftlbs.

You are the first I've ever seen have problems getting new 90105-10406 (replaced by 90080-10066) flanged bolts to 59 ft/lbs. Maybe your threads weren't clean? I didn't have any problems with mine.
 

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