CVJ Reman CV Axles w/ Silicone Boots

MTD

New member
Who has CVJ axles under their 4runners, how long have you had them, which boots did you get (inner and outer silicone, just inner silicone, or neoprene), and how do you like them. I thought I had my mind made up to get me a set of these (my boots died and i didn't notice soon enough), but after reading some articles about how some of their parts aren't OEM as they claim and that the silicone boots still rub and fail am a bit sceptical.

As always :worthless and more importantly milage info on how long you have had them and what you think of them.




Here is an excerpt from and email with them about options and pricing:





We can build one or a pair of CVJ Remanufactured OEM CV Axles with two days notice, (we have all the parts, but no finished ones on the shelf). CVJ part number 9168.
Your cost is $99.00 each plus a core deposit of $75.00 each. Plus freight (UPS ground) which is about $48.00 or less for two in the US. Send us a zip code for exact shipping.

The core deposit of $75.00 is refunded when you return the core. This is a critical core and should be returned within 30 days for full credit.
The core must be the same original Toyota 4Runner axle. Aftermarket cores cannot be rebuilt and are poor to begin with. Link: How to ID OEM axles

These are original manufacturer axles that have been completely Remanufactured by us using quality aftermarket parts and neoprene boots.
You get OEM steel and design where it counts at a much better price than new, with CVJ reliability.
The axles have a limited lifetime warranty. When used for offroad or in lifted trucks we cannot warrant the axles.

Every lift kit is different, each individual uses his truck differently, etc. So, while it is is hard to make specific recommendations here are some boot options that many Toyota truck owners have found valuable:

Option 1 - We also offer a Red silicone boots for the Inner joints (diff side). These are $42.95 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
Many offroaders prefer these for higher angles saying they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your inner boots are rubbing on themselves or have longer travel. With the red boot there are a lot more convolutions (ribs) so they can be stretched out so they don't rub or don't rub as much. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.
These won't be much help with severe angles.
{We have heard of a couple reports of suspension combinations that do not provide adequate clearance for this boot}. As a rule of thumb you will need an extra inch of clearance from the existing boot (radially & along the shaft). Please check the clearance before ordering.
There is no warranty on these boots.

Option 2 - We also offer a Blue silicone boots for the Outer CV joints (wheel side). These are $35.00 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
They don't weather check like the neoprene so they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your CV boots are rubbing on themselves or weather checking. The blue silicone boot is a unique design that allows higher angles without rubbing. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.
These won't be much help with severe angles.
There is no warranty on these boots.

Option 3 - Original OEM Toyota plastic boots on the CV joints (wheel side) are $50.00 each installed on axles we build for you. This boot is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene at high angles. This option gets you the closest to OEM.
There is no warranty on these boots.

We accept Visa and MasterCard.
 
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so if I read this correct,
the price is 99 plus shipping, plus core ( which you get back with core). they admit that their boots are not as good as factory Toyota boots, which they can put on for an additional 50 bringing the reman axel now to 149 plus shipping

unless weeks ago I looked at the wrong part, isn't a new one from yota including shipping like only 190 ?

if that is the case, Id go new yota

but then again, when I thought I needed an axel a week ago, I was looking at NAPA, autozone remans....ended up I did not need the axel, that was not my issue
 
so if I read this correct,
the price is 99 plus shipping, plus core ( which you get back with core). they admit that their boots are not as good as factory Toyota boots, which they can put on for an additional 50 bringing the reman axel now to 149 plus shipping

unless weeks ago I looked at the wrong part, isn't a new one from yota including shipping like only 190 ?

if that is the case, Id go new yota

but then again, when I thought I needed an axel a week ago, I was looking at NAPA, autozone remans....ended up I did not need the axel, that was not my issue

I don't know where you got that they are saying their boots are not as good as OEM you may want to reread that. Anyway a new axle is $150 plus shipping from toyota anlong with a $75 core charge. I am going to call the local dealer and see if they have any toyota remans for cheaper (some people said they have them for ~$80 plus the core). But I guess I know I can trust Yota stuff I was more interested in what people thought about CVJ so let's end the debate there... :focus:
 
I don't have silicone (sorry) and I'm not against them but for perspective, here is how my OEM ones have worked out so far .....

2012 @ 200K miles, original passenger side inner boot fails. Replaced with OEM boot and re-greased.

2015 @ 230K miles, original passenger side outer boot and both drivers side boots fail. Replaced with OEM boots and re-greased. Now all my boots have been replaced by OEM.

I don't believe it is related to ones lift unless you have it far over lifted. At 2.5" in the front then the CV boots shouldn't be an issue. My lift was installed in 2007 at around 140K miles.

Hope that helps put things in perspective.
 
I don't have silicone (sorry) and I'm not against them but for perspective, here is how my OEM ones have worked out so far .....

2012 @ 200K miles, original passenger side inner boot fails. Replaced with OEM boot and re-greased.

2015 @ 230K miles, original passenger side outer boot and both drivers side boots fail. Replaced with OEM boots and re-greased. Now all my boots have been replaced by OEM.

I don't believe it is related to ones lift unless you have it far over lifted. At 2.5" in the front then the CV boots shouldn't be an issue. My lift was installed in 2007 at around 140K miles.

Hope that helps put things in perspective.

I actually saw your post on another CVJ thread I believe, but they got way off topic there. I can see what you mean. I am lifted about 2.5-3" I think so nothing too crazy, I personally think my CV angles look good they are by no means crazy like some I have seen on here. My concern I guess is that this is my second failure of a CV boot since I bought the truck last august. It only has 95K miles on it, but it also did come from texas and I would guess sat outside most of its life. Rubber in dry hot conditions like that, especially without being worked likes to dry out. I don't know I am not sure what I want to do.

I am going to crawl under the truck tonight and take a closer look at what's going on, but I am still interested to hear what people think about CVJ and the silicone boots in particular. I am just going to buy a new yota pair if everyone says the silicone boots are not worth it, It would be dumb not too.
 
I don't have silicone (sorry) and I'm not against them but for perspective, here is how my OEM ones have worked out so far .....

2012 @ 200K miles, original passenger side inner boot fails. Replaced with OEM boot and re-greased.

2015 @ 230K miles, original passenger side outer boot and both drivers side boots fail. Replaced with OEM boots and re-greased. Now all my boots have been replaced by OEM.

I don't believe it is related to ones lift unless you have it far over lifted. At 2.5" in the front then the CV boots shouldn't be an issue. My lift was installed in 2007 at around 140K miles.

Hope that helps put things in perspective.

This rarely happens, but I would have to respectfully disagree with you on this one Brian. I had the original cvs on my truck until installing my 1st lift which sat at 2-2.5" in the front. It was shortly after installing the lift that the boots failed on both sides. I ended up replacing them with a set of NAPAs "high end" remanufactured cvs. They tore on both sides in about 5k miles. I then used the warranty and got a second pair from NAPA. They lasted around 8k miles before tearing on both sides. I then purchased a set of oem used cvs here on the forum with around 120k miles. They tore after around 4k miles, again on both sides.

So un-lifted, the original cv boots on my truck lasted around 180k miles with no tears. After lifting, I tore those, and then 3 more sets, none of which made it 10k miles before ripping. To me the common denominator is the increased cv angle from the lift.

MTD, I agree with you that the angle doesn't "look" that bad. However the real issue is what's happening in the boot as the cv is spinning while going down the road.

Sorry to detract from the main topic. I have looked into cvj's axles as well, and plan on getting them in the future when I can budget them. I am also interested in hearing what members who have been running the cvj's with extended boots have to say about them.
 
MTD, I agree with you that the angle doesn't "look" that bad. However the real issue is what's happening in the boot as the cv is spinning while going down the road.

Sorry to detract from the main topic. I have looked into cvj's axles as well, and plan on getting them in the future when I can budget them. I am also interested in hearing what members who have been running the cvj's with extended boots have to say about them.


Sounds like you and I are in the same boat. Being an enginerd luckily I understand how fatigue works :lol: so that is why I am worried about just going out and buying a new set of OEM CV's and destroying them after the first 10k I put on them.

Right now my main concern is will these extended silicone boots do the same and will I be up sh1t creek without a paddle at that point. From the way he worded his email it sounds like the may have a similar problem with the inner boot like stock, but it may not apply to our vehicles as well. Both times I lost a boot it was the inner one that went.
 
This rarely happens, but I would have to respectfully disagree with you on this one Brian. I had the original cvs on my truck until installing my 1st lift which sat at 2-2.5" in the front. It was shortly after installing the lift that the boots failed on both sides. I ended up replacing them with a set of NAPAs "high end" remanufactured cvs. They tore on both sides in about 5k miles. I then used the warranty and got a second pair from NAPA. They lasted around 8k miles before tearing on both sides. I then purchased a set of oem used cvs here on the forum with around 120k miles. They tore after around 4k miles, again on both sides.

So un-lifted, the original cv boots on my truck lasted around 180k miles with no tears. After lifting, I tore those, and then 3 more sets, none of which made it 10k miles before ripping. To me the common denominator is the increased cv angle from the lift.

MTD, I agree with you that the angle doesn't "look" that bad. However the real issue is what's happening in the boot as the cv is spinning while going down the road.

Sorry to detract from the main topic. I have looked into cvj's axles as well, and plan on getting them in the future when I can budget them. I am also interested in hearing what members who have been running the cvj's with extended boots have to say about them.
Do you have a pic of your CV angles post-lift? Were you running top plate spacers?
 
Do you have a pic of your CV angles post-lift? Were you running top plate spacers?

What does it matter if he is running top plate spacers? The geometry would be the same with spacers or with a longer strut.
 
My PS outer boot just lost its grease yesterday. I finished my lift on Sunday, (TRD Tundras in the front 2nd perch). Got it aligned Monday morning & drove it to work on Tues when it lost its grease. The boot isn't ripped so I was thinking I could just re-grease it & put a new clamp on it? I'll replace the CV if I need to but from what I've read here in the past I don't have to.
 
What does it matter if he is running top plate spacers? The geometry would be the same with spacers or with a longer strut.
Now, I'm no suspension guru. As it was explained to me, top plate spacers when added to an already tapped out IFS system, put extra strain on LBJ's, boots, and cv's. Is this untrue?
 
@op I am running CVJs on my truck with the extended boots. I replaced the drivers side about 23k miles ago, I did the passenger side about 12k miles ago. No problems with tears. I am running a 2.5/3" OME lift with no diff drop. Below is what they look like pulled right out of the box from them. Let me know if you want any photos of them on the truck. I just put my skids back on last night but I might be able to get you what you want if hy

AWT_3697_zpsf66467fa.jpg~original
 
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Now, I'm no suspension guru. As it was explained to me, top plate spacers when added to an already tapped out IFS system, put extra strain on LBJ's, boots, and cv's. Is this untrue?
It isn't, but any suspension lift no matter the type does that. So ome lift = top plate spacer from a geometry standpoint.
 
Hey, no problem! That is with the extended boot (Red one). Also if you call up they have given me a T4R discount as well. It wasn't a ton but something is better than nothing! :)
 
Who has CVJ axles under their 4runners, how long have you had them, which boots did you get (inner and outer silicone, just inner silicone, or neoprene), and how do you like them. I thought I had my mind made up to get me a set of these (my boots died and i didn't notice soon enough), but after reading some articles about how some of their parts aren't OEM as they claim and that the silicone boots still rub and fail am a bit sceptical.

I was in the same position as you about a month ago & the CVJ axles were ones I was considering next to the Toyota reman axles. From the reviews I came across on CVJ axles, they all seemed to be positive and the price was similar to OEM (if I remember correctly). The only reason I went OEM was that I didn't come across "enough" info to convince me to move away from OEM. But I'm pretty confident I would have been satisfied either way.
 
I was in the same position as you about a month ago & the CVJ axles were ones I was considering next to the Toyota reman axles. From the reviews I came across on CVJ axles, they all seemed to be positive and the price was similar to OEM (if I remember correctly). The only reason I went OEM was that I didn't come across "enough" info to convince me to move away from OEM. But I'm pretty confident I would have been satisfied either way.
I don't know how you knew this but that's an exact summary of what's going on in my head right now lol
 
I gots the same ones as awethorn. I've had them for a few years. No issues. Long travel inners (red -silicone I believe). At the time, they did not offer long travel outer boots. Can't remember the owners name off the top of my head but he was very cool to deal with. Even sent me some extra boot clamps for free as mine needed to be moved after installation. Depending on how much lift you have the boots may need to be extended a ways due to the ribs touching. Anyway, the conclusion I made on price comparison was purchasing long travel boots from off road vendors and the work to install them was a no brainer to me. Though, I think the prices were a hair cheaper then. I just save my OE ones for later or trail spares.
 
My PS outer boot just lost its grease yesterday. I finished my lift on Sunday, (TRD Tundras in the front 2nd perch). Got it aligned Monday morning & drove it to work on Tues when it lost its grease. The boot isn't ripped so I was thinking I could just re-grease it & put a new clamp on it? I'll replace the CV if I need to but from what I've read here in the past I don't have to.

If the boot isn't too old and worn out I would just re-grease & since it's the outer boot, you may be able to re-grease without having to take the axle out (although I have never tried it this way). I just rebooted my axles last weekend & it was surprisingly much easier then I expected. But if the boot is suspect, you may save yourself more work in the long run and just change out the boot or boots if the inner is looking worn down as well.
 

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