CVJ Reman CV Axles w/ Silicone Boots
- Thread starter MTD
- Start date
awthorn
New member
I think any lift puts extra strain on those suspension components, Spacers or Struts.
[MENTION=94545]MTD[/MENTION] However a spacer and suspension lift i do not think have the exact same geometry as a suspension lift. Usually a suspension lift has a spring with a higher spring rate vs just additional length. Giving height without adding additional length. The additional length/pushing down of the control arms front the spacer will decrease the amount of wheel travel (maxing out their movements) in a shorter length. Which that additional length increases angles on those other components(CVs, Ball Joints, etx.).... This is all just my theory, I am no suspension guru or engineer, just a thinker and these are my thoughts.
MTD
New member
The stiffer spring rate effectively increases the strut length under load, so it is the same in essence. The problem with spacers is that they add this length but don't add travle to the system so the shock bottoms out before it reaches the bump stop. This means you bottom out the shock and that will destroy a shock in short order.
That is the only issue that is unique to a spacer. Like I said earlier it is the same stress on ball joints and cv axels as any other lift.
You can trust me I am a mechanical engineer lol :Becky:
Fishwerks
New member
Having tried to re-boot my CVJs with Toyota boot kits I can tell you that mine at least were not the same. Also the attached photos are shitty, but they get the point across.
I will preface this with saying I had no issues with CVJ axles until both outer boots tore somewhere around 40,000 miles where they slide over the cup/housing on the outer joint. I had the long-travel inner silicone (red) boots, they worked well but one had a slight tear when I swapped the axles out. I will also say that CVJ makes no guarantees on the integrity of the boots or axles when you are lifted.
When I was trying to re-boot the CVJs with an OE boot kit I noticed a few things:
1. The snap rings that hold the roller over the needle bearings on in the inner joint were small enough where you could slide the roller off on accident without removing the snap ring, after removing the inner housing. I don't know how much cause for alarm this is, because when the joint is in the housing the rollers have nowhere to go anyways, but still a little weird. Plus, if you have to put those little needle bearings back on the joint it is obnoxious just ask [MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION].
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/18509149723" title="IMG_2694 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/18509149723_7f86edd372_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2694"></a>
2. The inner diameter of the OE CV boots were too large for the middle of the CVJ shaft, i.e. you cannot re-boot a CVJ with an OE boot kit. I test fit the inner OE boot on the CVJ shaft and the boot lip did not hug the axle shaft tightly. Which is weird because the splined portions of the CVJ shaft fit the diff and hub just fine. Could be due to the weird little notch seen below.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/19124068712" title="IMG_2692 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/360/19124068712_6531314463_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2692"></a>
3. On the CVJ axle, are 2 snap rings on the splined portion of the inner joint, as far as I know on OE axles there is only the small c-clip/snap ring on the end of the shaft.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/19133193231" title="IMG_2693 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/304/19133193231_8529da8581_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2693"></a>
That being said, I don't think the axles are poor quality and I don't want this to scare people away, especially because I really have no idea if these differences matter, aside from not being able to re-boot them. I never had an issue until the outer boots tore, which is expected when you are lifted in my opinion. I will still probably use one of the CVJs for core and buy a replacement from them as a spare honestly.
Just want to get it out there that it's doesn't seem like they take the OE core, clean it up, slap their own boots on it and re-sell them. At least not with the set that I bought from them.
If anyone had a different experience re-booting a CVJ axle I'd like to hear it.
I will preface this with saying I had no issues with CVJ axles until both outer boots tore somewhere around 40,000 miles where they slide over the cup/housing on the outer joint. I had the long-travel inner silicone (red) boots, they worked well but one had a slight tear when I swapped the axles out. I will also say that CVJ makes no guarantees on the integrity of the boots or axles when you are lifted.
When I was trying to re-boot the CVJs with an OE boot kit I noticed a few things:
1. The snap rings that hold the roller over the needle bearings on in the inner joint were small enough where you could slide the roller off on accident without removing the snap ring, after removing the inner housing. I don't know how much cause for alarm this is, because when the joint is in the housing the rollers have nowhere to go anyways, but still a little weird. Plus, if you have to put those little needle bearings back on the joint it is obnoxious just ask [MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION].
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/18509149723" title="IMG_2694 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/548/18509149723_7f86edd372_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2694"></a>
2. The inner diameter of the OE CV boots were too large for the middle of the CVJ shaft, i.e. you cannot re-boot a CVJ with an OE boot kit. I test fit the inner OE boot on the CVJ shaft and the boot lip did not hug the axle shaft tightly. Which is weird because the splined portions of the CVJ shaft fit the diff and hub just fine. Could be due to the weird little notch seen below.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/19124068712" title="IMG_2692 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/360/19124068712_6531314463_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2692"></a>
3. On the CVJ axle, are 2 snap rings on the splined portion of the inner joint, as far as I know on OE axles there is only the small c-clip/snap ring on the end of the shaft.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92196326@N04/19133193231" title="IMG_2693 by Fishwerks., on Flickr"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/304/19133193231_8529da8581_b.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_2693"></a>
That being said, I don't think the axles are poor quality and I don't want this to scare people away, especially because I really have no idea if these differences matter, aside from not being able to re-boot them. I never had an issue until the outer boots tore, which is expected when you are lifted in my opinion. I will still probably use one of the CVJs for core and buy a replacement from them as a spare honestly.
Just want to get it out there that it's doesn't seem like they take the OE core, clean it up, slap their own boots on it and re-sell them. At least not with the set that I bought from them.
If anyone had a different experience re-booting a CVJ axle I'd like to hear it.
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1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Yeah, exactly. When dealing with cv angle (and you already know all of this I know) the type of suspension lift is irrelevant. It could be a spacer, a longer coil, a shock with different settings, or a magical fairy. The cv doesnt differentiate. It just feels the effects of the greater angle. For this reason unfortunately, Im leaning toward the best solution, which is simply dropping my truck down closer to stock. A diff drop would help a little. I have one, but havent gotten around to installing it.
fourfive
Senior Member
Interesting and helpful info. Your pics arent bad man, atleast theyre better then the few ive posted. Bad photos are better then no photos in my opinion
BrianSD_42
New member
[MENTION=56756]1985taylor1925[/MENTION]
I don't think you are really disagreeing with me (and I wouldn't mind of course) but to be clear this is what I am saying.
My OEM boots lasted a long time, as much as 5 years after I lifted my truck and even then when the boots started to leak they has lasted past 200K miles. I expect the OEM replacements to last a long time as well, even lifted.
You replaced your original boots with aftermarket (aka non-OEM) NAPA. As quality or not of a part that may have been, you cannot logically infer that just because your NAPA Premium boots failed that it is an issue with Boots plus a lift. The problem could quite likely be with the fact that NAPA quality is not OEM quality.
You would want to compare apples to apples (eg the life OEM boots on a truck to OEM boots on another truck) is what I'm saying.
I don't think you are really disagreeing with me (and I wouldn't mind of course) but to be clear this is what I am saying.
My OEM boots lasted a long time, as much as 5 years after I lifted my truck and even then when the boots started to leak they has lasted past 200K miles. I expect the OEM replacements to last a long time as well, even lifted.
You replaced your original boots with aftermarket (aka non-OEM) NAPA. As quality or not of a part that may have been, you cannot logically infer that just because your NAPA Premium boots failed that it is an issue with Boots plus a lift. The problem could quite likely be with the fact that NAPA quality is not OEM quality.
You would want to compare apples to apples (eg the life OEM boots on a truck to OEM boots on another truck) is what I'm saying.
lhsoulrebel
New member
I have the cvj's with the red inner silicone boot. I can highly recommend them. I don't wheel as hard or as often as some, but a conservative estimate would be 500 miles off road... Medium stuff (Mineral creek, Imogene pass level of trails. 30k on road, holding up nicely, no signs of wear, or tearing. No pics, but they look like everyone else's. I did a reasonable Amount of research before going with them... Like oem quality, but with a better designed boot... I think with reasonable cv angles, the boots will hold up. My 2 cents.
option 3 of original post
Option 3 - Original OEM Toyota plastic boots on the CV joints (wheel side) are $50.00 each installed on axles we build for you. This boot is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene at high angles. This option gets you the closest to OEM.
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MTD
New member
Oh, I guess I shouldn't have included that lol I could give a crap about the standard boot. I was only interested in the silicone boots thus the reason for the title of the thread
BrianSD_42
New member
I had always assumed everyone here has a diff drop installed. Perhaps that is another reason why some people have issues and others don't.
Sorry for taking the thread of topic a bit with my post about OEM. I just wanted to share the info for anyone else considering an OEM reboot.
D Farms
New member
a top plate spacer can make your suspension droop more, however if you have a diff drop then the cv angle is less anyways. what kills cv boots is high angle at ride height, and old dried out rubber, not nessescarily extended travel. im running autozone gold cvs and have had them for about 20k, no ripped boots or clicking at all so far. and before anyone says that the diff drop does more damge than good, prove it, link some actual real evidence, the rear diff sits at an angle after a lift too, and no one has problems with the rear diff. also the front diff is only active offroad where the angle of the truck is constantly changing and being jiggled around in turn sloshing up oil, also the gears catch oil as they turn.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
I forgot to add that caveat initially. I think its on topic because it affects the cv angle and could help prolong the life of the boots. Im assuming you have a diff drop installed? Maybe that's one of the reasons your boots are lasting longer than mine. I need to do that when I get back to WI.
I don't think anyone here believes the diff drop will hurt the diff. The only forum member I ever recall making that argument was drcoffee, and he never presented any definitive evidence.
Scramble
New member
I'm going with the new not rebuilt CVs from Napa, lifetime warranty as per this thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118912-if-you-have-used-napa-cv-axles-please-reply.html
I dont see the Altron on their site only the MaxDrive.
It'll get me back on the road quicker & I'll reboot the OEM one & keep it as a trail spare.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/118912-if-you-have-used-napa-cv-axles-please-reply.html
I dont see the Altron on their site only the MaxDrive.
It'll get me back on the road quicker & I'll reboot the OEM one & keep it as a trail spare.
MTD
New member
strain1
strān/Submit
verb
2.
pour (a mainly liquid substance) through a porous or perforated device or material in order to separate out any solid matter.
"strain the custard into a bowl"
You are right they are using it wrong :becky:
I am yet to break a CV but my boots both tore shortly after lifting. I cleaned, regressed and rebooted them with OEM boots and have had no problems since. As a spare, I picked up a used low km OEM unit for $75.
Junkyard axles are cheap and the general consensus is that the OEM CV's are better than any of the reman'd options out there.
Junkyard axles are cheap and the general consensus is that the OEM CV's are better than any of the reman'd options out there.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
They will not honor the warranty if they know your suspension is altered from stock. I made the mistake of driving my truck to the store, and the service manager saw it parked and thought it looked lifted. So he asked me about it. I wasnt going to stand there and lie about it. Its quite obvious that my 4runner is not sitting at stock height. So they decided to let me use the warranty that one time, but said it would have to be the last as my suspension was "altered"
Maybe your NAPA will be more relaxed about the fine print
Scramble
New member
Thanks for the heads up. My neighbor is a mechanic & own's a shop in town & will be ordering it for me. He's been letting me use his shop & teaching me thing's. I'm glad we are becoming buddies because I couldn't do a lot this stuff in my driveway. (no garage) :bravo:
