"D" dash indicator stopped working

Outrider

Member
All other (P, R, N, etc.) indicator lights on my dash work, but the D stopped. It has been years since I had my dash apart, I don't recall the bulb layout, and I thought it seemed weird that each gear had its own bulb. I did a search here, but found nothing at all. I did a general web search and found some other T4R forum that had a thread about this problem. It seems that the Park/Neutral Position Switch sends a signal to the proper indicator bulb. I read that this switch can get flaky, and sometimes fixed by loosening it, wiggling it, then re-attaching it. Trouble is, I haven't found where this sensor is located.

Before I crawl under there and start poking around, has anyone on here had this problem and solved it, and can someone tell me where the Park/Neutral Position Switch is located on the transmission? If it seems likely that this may fix the problem, I will try it before I try to pull apart my dash in cool weather, when plastic is more likely to crack.

This is a real easy problem to ignore, but I tend to treat my vehicles like aircraft, and want every single thing functioning 100%.
 
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Could it simply be that since the D bulb is the one that is illuminated much more than any other, it might burn out first? Mine was already done when I bought my 2000 about 4 years ago.


Edit - I was looking at a dash light thread from 2009 and came across this quote:

" Funny thread... The 'D' light is out on a majority of Land Cruisers, and most people prefer that so the light isn't shining in their eyes at night while driving. Every other light in the stack works exc. the 'D'.

Cruiser owners consider it a 'feature'...
"
 
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Bought my 01 in 17 and that bulb was burnt out.
Worried about plastic turn the heat on high won't be long till flip flops shorts T shirt weather. Windows closed of course.
 
All other (P, R, N, etc.) indicator lights on my dash work, but the D stopped. It has been years since I had my dash apart, I don't recall the bulb layout, and I thought it seemed weird that each gear had its own bulb. I did a search here, but found nothing at all. I did a general web search and found some other T4R forum that had a thread about this problem. It seems that the Park/Neutral Position Switch sends a signal to the proper indicator bulb. I read that this switch can get flaky, and sometimes fixed by loosening it, wiggling it, then re-attaching it. Trouble is, I haven't found where this sensor is located.

Before I crawl under there and start poking around, has anyone on here had this problem and solved it, and can someone tell me where the Park/Neutral Position Switch is located on the transmission? If it seems likely that this may fix the problem, I will try it before I try to pull apart my dash in cool weather, when plastic is more likely to crack.

This is a real easy problem to ignore, but I tend to treat my vehicles like aircraft, and want every single thing functioning 100%.

It's the instrument cluster bulb for "D" not the switch.
 
I will try a bulb, first. Does anyone have a link to a good, reliable bulb chart or search wizard for these vehicles, or already happen to know which bulb # is needed for D? I didn't find much on that, except a bunch of clickbait BS sites that told me nothing useful.
 
I will try a bulb, first. Does anyone have a link to a good, reliable bulb chart or search wizard for these vehicles, or already happen to know which bulb # is needed for D? I didn't find much on that, except a bunch of clickbait BS sites that told me nothing useful.
Move the "L" bulb to the "D" position... It should be a '74' sized bulb, but search the LED swap threads for more clues.

It burns out faster because it is both used the most *and* it is run at low power when the lights are on. Both will wear the bulb more.

-Charlie
 
Replace the bulb. Don't overthink it.


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Thanks for the link. I will also replace them all, while I am in there.

No problem I like passing stuff along when I can. Beats the $3-5 each at dealer.
I used a dial caliper to find the correct bulb after trying the 74 that popped out of socket requiring a redo.
 
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