Dash Speaker Help

honda99ex

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Dash Speakers lead to more upgrades!

This is my first audio mod and I needed some advice.

I got the JBL 302 GX and I bought a set of red PAC Bass Blockers for 3.5" speakers. However they are rated to block at 0-2800 Hz. I installed them and they work but I was wondering if this was way too high??? The speakers are rated at to run at 2.3 Ohm. I tried reading this forum and people go as low as 200 on their dash speakers. The JBL is rated to go down to 90 Hz. I get confused cause then people talk about capicitance etc

I had trouble with the negative disconnect as well. The spade is really flimsy and I can't get a good contact. I'm thinking I'm going to have to solder directly onto it to hold. Any tips here? there just isn't a whole lot of room down in there...

I will have these and I have a Kenwood KSC-SW11 waiting to go in.

Thanks a lot. So frustrating.
 
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I installed the Infinity Reference 3.5" in mine and I believe I used a 250Hz bass blocker. I get a ton of bass out of them and they sound great. It think with the 2800 blockers you are basically turning the speakers into tweeters. I also used this guy's example for installing mine, sacrificing the crappy OEM dash speakers to get the connector so the factory harness doesn't have to be cut. You can also solder the bass blocker caps into the same place the factory cap was installed. I also cut off bits of the OEM speaker brackets to fabricate brackets that allowed me to use the stock mounting locations for the new speakers. Good luck getting it sorted out.
 
Updates

Can't seem to upload pics (off the laptop). Says 4runner.org cannot handle this request.... I could only get them as PDFs small enough for the requirements, maybe that's the issue? If someone can guide me I can put up some pics.

this project like all my car endeavors took much longer than it should've. Mostly because I have a cheapo chinese knockoff dremel with the shortest f-ing battery life, Amazon kept sending me the wrong bass blocker and life just kept getting in the way.

Driver's side - I started with this side. Ended up cutting the OEM bracket in 2 pieces and sat it back down almost in the same spot. The first time around, I looped the wires similar to this thread
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...aker-upgrade-simple-solution-non-jbl-nav.html
however it is so tight that I ended up taking it out to solder a direct connection to the negative terminal and while doing that I just spliced up new wires to make a Y instead of the loop to make just that much more room. In doing that I also melted the rubber cone a bit. Grrrr I had to do this because the flimsy negative terminal was getting bent jammed up into the space.

Passenger side - thinking I was better prepped from having done the first side I was seriously pissed to see the passenger side is even tighter. There is an air duct and some wiring in there that make it difficult for clumsy people like myself. I cut the OEM bracket again except only used one side to anchor. the other side, believe it or not, I just have zip tied in there. I don't know how people got theirs to fit? The height is nearly the same but the magnet is much wider. Anyway, it is pinned in and contacting at like 6 touch points so I'm not afraid it'll move. I had to shave the rear of the grill really close to clear the tweeter.

Impressions - much more clarity than stock. also surprising thump. I had to really adjust the balance left to right because if you put it in the middle the driver's side overwhelmed the soundstage. Also with these in it really starts to highlight the weakness of the other speakers. When I turned these up it held up fine to the stock head unit but the front door speakers distorted badly. I was having the toughest time getting the correct bass blocker (amazon sent me the wrong one 2x in a row, I gave up on them after the 3rd attempt) so i ended up call Crutchfield but the shipping basically equaled the price of the blockers so I threw in the JBL Stage 602s that netted out to be only $30 with all the free gear.

Front door - install easy as can be. 3 screws, a bunch of Xmas trees. I had to dremel the adapter to accommodate the speaker but other than that all the Crutchfield accessories made it super simple. This definitely was a more subtle change. Again the clarity, reduction in distortion is greatly improved. I almost feel like you need an amp to drive these to their potential.

Underseat amp - Finally had a Kenwood powered sub put in. This filled in the lows. Definitely not booming. More just letting you hear the low range. But in the whole scheme of things rounded out the sound. My installer followed Antman's thread but because it's linked to the rear speaker output you have to send a lot of the balance back there to realize the gains... Which again distorts the rear speakers badly. I was previously very front heavy with my balance. So I ended up just disconnecting the rear speakers so that the rear output just sends a signal to the amp and nothing else. Note - the rear door panels come off real easy as well but I had a hell of a time getting one side back on. Envision tons of swearing and muttering. The other side dropped in like nothing.... I don't have rear passengers hardly ever so not a big loss removing the connection. By doing this and adjusting the balance left right front and rear finally have sound I really like.
 

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