DDM Tuning Saber LED for DRL / High

[xpress]

Agreed and to make it even more complicated, that's one manufacturer chart. That was the first one that's popped up in Google...

So there can be color variations between manufacturers, wattage ect. Lots of variables come into play, even type of housing.

-A

P.S. I'm somewhat shocked that you don't seem blown away by the high beam in total darkness vs the stock halogen. As stated before these LEDs in the high setting toss as much if not more than. 40" + LED bar. IMOP that's pretty darn impressive. But again it maybe my extensive experience with LED bars.

Here are a series of pics with just low beam HID and low beam HID + high beam LED. Exposure was kept the same within each set and all pics were shot using daylight white balance on a Canon 5D Mark III at 12800 ISO. You can clearly see where the cut off of the HID is. I was expecting the intensity of the high to be roughly similar to the HID but the pics show there is a big difference between the two. I am not sure if that is due to the temp difference between the two lights or one is using a projector and the other a reflector. As a point of reference, in the last set the tree in the middle of the pic is about 150 ft away. Do you think the pics are a representation of what I should expect or do you think I have some bad bulbs? I should also point out in all of the pics with the high on, I can perceive more faint lighting but does not show on the pics due to limitation in dynamic range of the camera.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Here are a series of pics with just low beam HID and low beam HID + high beam LED. Exposure was kept the same within each set and all pics were shot using daylight white balance on a Canon 5D Mark III at 12800 ISO. You can clearly see where the cut off of the HID is. I was expecting the intensity of the high to be roughly similar to the HID but the pics show there is a big difference between the two. I am not sure if that is due to the temp difference between the two lights or one is using a projector and the other a reflector. As a point of reference, in the last set the tree in the middle of the pic is about 150 ft away. Do you think the pics are a representation of what I should expect or do you think I have some bad bulbs? I should also point out in all of the pics with the high on, I can perceive more faint lighting but does not show on the pics due to limitation in dynamic range of the camera.

I answered your question in my first initial response and then you answered your own question above:


"They process light completely different, for completely different purposes. This is by design and has nothing to do with the "bulb" type.

The low is Projector is a focused driving beam.

The high is a wide distance beam, it's a bit of a catch all. Gives distance but also scatters light to fill in the voids the low beam doesn't get."

Just stand in front of your truck and look at the headlights. Pretty easy to see the path the light will travel out of the DRL / High.

Same could be said for the projector, it's like a garden hose with a spray head, when you twist the end down it's focused like the projector, when you back it off it throws the water wide and softer...

You can clearly see in your high beam pictures the cut line of the projector and the high beam filling in the voids. It's doing exactly what it was designed to do.

It's the design of the actual headlight and has nothing to do with the "bulb" type you place inside.

It sounds like you want a projector highbeam, it can be done. Spend some time over on the TRS website and fourm.

-A

 

[XswampX]

Question to those with the DDM Saber high beam kit:

I found the small wiggle in the bulb with the standard red o-ring. For the life of me, even with lubricant, I can't get the bulb to seat with the larger black o-ring. I am certain alignment of the bulb was good and I pushed way harder than one should be pushing on a bulb. Fortunately, DDM has a shop nearby here in San Diego so we tried a couple more o-rings they had. They did not have a solution. I also carefully measured all of the o-rings with a caliper and tried a custom US size and custom metric size. I could not find a single solution that fits (allows the proper turn/lock) and also eliminates the play.

Thoughts/tips?

 

[tm965]

Question to those with the DDM Saber high beam kit:

I found the small wiggle in the bulb with the standard red o-ring. For the life of me, even with lubricant, I can't get the bulb to seat with the larger black o-ring. I am certain alignment of the bulb was good and I pushed way harder than one should be pushing on a bulb. Fortunately, DDM has a shop nearby here in San Diego so we tried a couple more o-rings they had. They did not have a solution. I also carefully measured all of the o-rings with a caliper and tried a custom US size and custom metric size. I could not find a single solution that fits (allows the proper turn/lock) and also eliminates the play.

Thoughts/tips?

i had some difficulty getting mine in. i used the red orings and had to fiddle with them for a while to get them settled. ive had them in for prob 2 months now and no leaks/problems yet.

 

[xpress]

Question to those with the DDM Saber high beam kit:

I found the small wiggle in the bulb with the standard red o-ring. For the life of me, even with lubricant, I can't get the bulb to seat with the larger black o-ring. I am certain alignment of the bulb was good and I pushed way harder than one should be pushing on a bulb. Fortunately, DDM has a shop nearby here in San Diego so we tried a couple more o-rings they had. They did not have a solution. I also carefully measured all of the o-rings with a caliper and tried a custom US size and custom metric size. I could not find a single solution that fits (allows the proper turn/lock) and also eliminates the play.

Thoughts/tips?

The bulbs with the black o-ring will not fit without some unscrewing of the three screws that hold the plastic holder where the bulbs go. Check earlier posts in this thread. I also noticed the three tabs on the bulbs were much smaller than on the OEM 9005 bulbs so I don't know if that is what contributes to the wiggle with the standard red o-ring. It was annoying having to unscrew the holder to fit the bulb. I also don't know if that means over time the screws may loosen.

 

[XswampX]

The bulbs with the black o-ring will not fit without some unscrewing of the three screws that hold the plastic holder where the bulbs go. Check earlier posts in this thread. I also noticed the three tabs on the bulbs were much smaller than on the OEM 9005 bulbs so I don't know if that is what contributes to the wiggle with the standard red o-ring. It was annoying having to unscrew the holder to fit the bulb. I also don't know if that means over time the screws may loosen.

Wow, must be something different with my parts... The only way I could get the bulb seat was with all 3 screw very loose. However, once the bulb is rotated to the locked position, 1 of the 3 screws is inaccessible. I've got them in with the red o-rings now and the wobble. I'm going to see if a thin rubber sheet cut into the shape of a washer or perhaps a piece of tubing cut to be a spacer might be able to cinch things up.

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Wow, must be something different with my parts... The only way I could get the bulb seat was with all 3 screw very loose. However, once the bulb is rotated to the locked position, 1 of the 3 screws is inaccessible. I've got them in with the red o-rings now and the wobble. I'm going to see if a thin rubber sheet cut into the shape of a washer or perhaps a piece of tubing cut to be a spacer might be able to cinch things up.

Pretty sure this exact situation and solution was reviewed in detail in this thread... unless I had that convo someplace else....

Did you read this thread?

-A

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Correct they come with orange O rings installed, about the same size as what's on the factory bulbs.

However I changed them over to the larger diameter black rings they come with. I had to loosen the retainer ring on the back side of the head light housing, twist the bulb in, and then tighten the rings back down once the led was installed.

This eliminated the "wobble"

-A

Ok just had to be sure I wasn't crazy...

 

[XswampX]

Ok just had to be sure I wasn't crazy...

Thanks, I did read the whole thread but missed that. I only remembered the part about the black ring, not loosening the screws. But again, either way, loosening the screws also did not work...

 

[Trail-AMMO]

Thanks, I did read the whole thread but missed that. I only remembered the part about the black ring, not loosening the screws. But again, either way, loosening the screws also did not work...

Ok, let me try to help.

Back off the 3 screws that hold the retention ring onto the back of the housing. Just enough so that you can get the bulb into the socket with the larger O ring installed.

You will only have access to 2 out of the 3 screws once the new bulb is installed so what I did was left the bottom one or the one you can't access a tad "tighter" on the install then the other two. I had to sort of "tip" the bulb in and twist from what I recall.

I then tightened down the remaining 2 screws that where accessible.

All done.

-A

P.S. I feel like there is a joke here someplace... you know the one about how many...

 

[DLH87]

Ok, let me try to help.

Back off the 3 screws that hold the retention ring onto the back of the housing. Just enough so that you can get the bulb into the socket with the larger O ring installed.

You will only have access to 2 out of the 3 screws once the new bulb is installed so what I did was left the bottom one or the one you can't access a tad "tighter" on the install then the other two. I had to sort of "tip" the bulb in and twist from what I recall.

I then tightened down the remaining 2 screws that where accessible.

All done.

-A

P.S. I feel like there is a joke here someplace... you know the one about how many...

This sounds like a better route than I went. I went through a trial and error method before getting it just right. Put bulb in, take bulb out, adjust, repeat until satisfied.

 

[XswampX]

Ok, let me try to help.

Back off the 3 screws that hold the retention ring onto the back of the housing. Just enough so that you can get the bulb into the socket with the larger O ring installed.

You will only have access to 2 out of the 3 screws once the new bulb is installed so what I did was left the bottom one or the one you can't access a tad "tighter" on the install then the other two. I had to sort of "tip" the bulb in and twist from what I recall.

I then tightened down the remaining 2 screws that where accessible.

All done.

-A

P.S. I feel like there is a joke here someplace... you know the one about how many...

Thanks much. I did try something identical or very close and was not satisfied with how crooked the bulb was. There are loose for now, I'll get to a fix eventually and hope I'm not too lazy to share it.

 

[Travo60]

Hello and happy new year fellow 4Runner enthusiasts! Just received my order after over a month of waiting ( long story ) and was able to install. I just we wanted to see how some of you tucked the wires away for a clean install, etc. any photos/suggestions is appreciated. First impression in daytime.... they are bright!

 

[IronManKansas]

Hello and happy new year fellow 4Runner enthusiasts! Just received my order after over a month of waiting ( long story ) and was able to install. I just we wanted to see how some of you tucked the wires away for a clean install, etc. any photos/suggestions is appreciated. First impression in daytime.... they are bright!

Are you seeing the hyper flash on the DRL?

 

[DLH87]

Are you seeing the hyper flash on the DRL?

I have these installed and notice the hyperflash. I tried the LED decoder they sell which got rid of the hyperflash, but at the same time, it got rid of the DRL function so they ran full power. I decided to scratch the decoder and live with the hyperflash. It gets to the point where you don't notice it anymore.

 

[bofa]

I have these installed and notice the hyperflash. I tried the LED decoder they sell which got rid of the hyperflash, but at the same time, it got rid of the DRL function so they ran full power. I decided to scratch the decoder and live with the hyperflash. It gets to the point where you don't notice it anymore.

Thats disappointing... was planning on getting these but cant stand hyperflash.

 

[Liquidmantis]

I've been holding off on them because I wasn't sure what I was doing for a front bumper, possibly losing the stock fog light and vent, but now that I'm installing the Southern Style slimline bumper I'm considering just running LED high beams with the DRL "disabled" and using the Aiden James Customs LED DRL.

 

[tm965]

I've been holding off on them because I wasn't sure what I was doing for a front bumper, possibly losing the stock fog light and vent, but now that I'm installing the Southern Style slimline bumper I'm considering just running LED high beams with the DRL "disabled" and using the Aiden James Customs LED DRL.

do it. after having these for a while i really like them. the flash doesnt bother me

 

[jakub4]

Hey guys, I just emailed DDM a little while ago before ordering, and this is what they had to say about the decoders:

You are absolutely correct. The Toyota/Lexus DRLs was one of the main reasons we brought in the decoders due to the exact flicker you mentioned without them. To date, all our testing has been successful and the flicker has been eliminated. They act just like the Sabers should: partial power on DRL and full for low beam.

I'll be installing in the next few days and will post my results, and if there is indeed any flicker and/or if the DRL continue to function as normal.

 

[DLH87]

Hey guys, I just emailed DDM a little while ago before ordering, and this is what they had to say about the decoders:



I'll be installing in the next few days and will post my results, and if there is indeed any flicker and/or if the DRL continue to function as normal.

I'll be interested to see your results with the decoders because I didn't get that result they described. It just stayed 100% power. No response via email as well. thanks!