Dead Battery

[MStudt]

Need some help here since I'm stumped on this! I bought this 4runner in August of this year. Last weekend I had to move it, and I couldn't even get the remove to unlock the car. When I turned the key nothing happen. When I jumped it, I literally started it 10 seconds after I hooked it up. Let it run for about an hour to charge up some. Then today it was the same thing. I jumped it again, and 15 seconds later it started. I went to move it again about 8 hours later and it barely started. I checked the battery, and the date on it was from July of 2013. This is the first issue I've had with this since August when we got it. I've made sure everything was turned off, radio, all interior lights, and anything else.

What should I be checking for?

 

[98OzarksRunner]

I'd check the battery contacts to make sure they are not corroded. Clean them off with a wire brush or something abrasive. After that, I'd make sure it's charging. I had a bad alternator on my 98 and it didn't show an alternator/battery warning light, but wouldn't charge the battery enough to do it much good.

 

[MStudt]

I'd check the battery contacts to make sure they are not corroded. Clean them off with a wire brush or something abrasive. After that, I'd make sure it's charging. I had a bad alternator on my 98 and it didn't show an alternator/battery warning light, but wouldn't charge the battery enough to do it much good.

Terminals are completely clean and they look almost new. I do plan on checking the alternator in the morning when it's light out.

 

[Buckaroo]

Most obvious cause is bad battery....have it tested.

 

[MStudt]

Most obvious cause is bad battery....have it tested.

That's where I'm leaning as well. I plan on testing the alternator in the morning, and then taking the battery to be load tested.

 

[MStudt]

I'd check the battery contacts to make sure they are not corroded. Clean them off with a wire brush or something abrasive. After that, I'd make sure it's charging. I had a bad alternator on my 98 and it didn't show an alternator/battery warning light, but wouldn't charge the battery enough to do it much good.

Just did some testing on the battery. I tested it when it was cold and it read at 10.01 volts, and running at 14.58 volts. I assume this means that the alternator is still doing what it's suppose to. I also hooked the meter up to it after I turned it off, and it read 12.7 volts. But, it continually drop and within a couple minutes it was back down to 12.35 volts. I had my wife come out and start it while I was reading the meter, or I should say try to start it. When she turned the key the volts dropped from 12.33 volts to nearly 5 volts. I'm pretty certain the battery is bad, and that sucks. It's a brand new Toyota battery that was installed in July. Unfortunately that was before I owned it.

 

[LittleCaesar]

It could be that the ALT is killing the battery. But first...

Remove the battery from the 4runner. Get a reading on it in volts, then either charge it if the reading is 12.2 or less with an external charger at home or have it tested at Autozone, etc. and see what they say. It could be that the battery has cycled itself so to speak too many times to keep a constant charge.

 

[FROGrunner]

You need to load test the battery and check fluid levels. You can also damage the alternator if you keep running with a weak battery.

 

[MStudt]

It could be that the ALT is killing the battery. But first...

Remove the battery from the 4runner. Get a reading on it in volts, then either charge it if the reading is 12.2 or less with an external charger at home or have it tested at Autozone, etc. and see what they say. It could be that the battery has cycled itself so to speak too many times to keep a constant charge.

I'm not sure about the alternator since once I get it started I can leave it running all day with no issues. I'm going to have my wife take it to Autozone tomorrow and see what they say.

You need to load test the battery and check fluid levels. You can also damage the alternator if you keep running with a weak battery.

No need to worry about that since we don't drive it. The only time it has been drive it have been driven since we brought it home from Ohio was to get it inspected about 2 months ago. I'd start it every weekend to move it around when I was working it, but nothing more then that.

 

[MStudt]

I took the battery up to the in-laws tonight, charged it, and load tested it. The load test shows the batter was fine and read 12.73 volts after the test. He also gave my an alternator tested and I plan on giving that a try tomorrow. At this point in thinking about everything I did to the 4runner and I haven't done anything besides put on wheels and tire in the last month. The last time I touched anything that could have caused a short was towards the beginning of October.

 

[pluton]

Couple of things--disregard if you already know this stuff...:
1. Running the engine at idle may not be enough to recharge the battery. Driving it 20 feet definitely will not replace the juice used to start it.
2. Your battery is severely compromised at this point by being drained flat so many times.

 

[TheDurk]

2. Your battery is severely compromised at this point by being drained flat so many times.

He may have a point. Try leaving it fully charged and connected to nothing for 48 hours. Then load test it--to rule out internal discharge.

 

[MStudt]

Couple of things--disregard if you already know this stuff...:
1. Running the engine at idle may not be enough to recharge the battery. Driving it 20 feet definitely will not replace the juice used to start it.
2. Your battery is severely compromised at this point by being drained flat so many times.

He may have a point. Try leaving it fully charged and connected to nothing for 48 hours. Then load test it--to rule out internal discharge.

I agree, but there has to be something else that caused this. I can hook the battery up the car, connect a volt meter, and watch the volts drop. Over an 8 hour direct from last night to this morning the battery volts dropped. Last night the volt were at 12.69 and this morning they were at 12.52.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

The easiest thing to do is take it to a Toyota dealer since the battery is probably still under warranty. If they're like WalMart they'll just swap it out no questions - like that'll happen at a Toyota dealer! Anyway, they should be able to check the battery under load and rule out any problems.

After that I'd check the load with an amp meter and see if the truck is discharging the battery. It will have some load due to things like the clock, alarm system, and ECM (which will most likely still pull some current even when off). It probably shouldn't draw more than 1 or 2 amps when everything is off (probably less than 1 amp).

 

[MStudt]

The easiest thing to do is take it to a Toyota dealer since the battery is probably still under warranty. If they're like WalMart they'll just swap it out no questions - like that'll happen at a Toyota dealer! Anyway, they should be able to check the battery under load and rule out any problems.

After that I'd check the load with an amp meter and see if the truck is discharging the battery. It will have some load due to things like the clock, alarm system, and ECM (which will most likely still pull some current even when off). It probably shouldn't draw more than 1 or 2 amps when everything is off (probably less than 1 amp).

The issue is that we don't have a Toyota dealer near us. The closest one is at least 30-45 minutes away. Also, I don't think the dealer is going to warranty it since we were not the ones who purchased it.

Can you give me some points on how to test for amps?

 

[98OzarksRunner]

The issue is that we don't have a Toyota dealer near us. The closest one is at least 30-45 minutes away. Also, I don't think the dealer is going to warranty it since we were not the ones who purchased it.

Can you give me some points on how to test for amps?

I think any Toyota dealer would cover the warranty and if it has the date on the battery you shouldn't need the receipt. I'd call the nearest dealer to make sure.

You can check the current using one of these:

Digital Multimeter - Save on this AC/DC Digital Multimeter

You need a meter that will read DC amps (a lot of cheap meters with clamps for reading amps only read AC amps). It should have a range of 20 amps or more.

Pull the hot leads from the battery and put the meter leads in series between the battery and the hot leads. DON'T HIT THE START KEY OR TURN ON THE IGNITION - it'll pull too much current and fry the meter. It should read any current being drawn by the electrical system. I'd check it attached to all the leads then remove the heavy wire to the starter, since that is not likely to be the problem (unless the current draw goes away when you remove that wire). After that, if you have more than 1 or 2 amps draw, I'd start pulling fuses until the current draw drops below that.

Here's how to wire it:

 

[TheDurk]

I would just add that you should start with the meter on its highest DC AMPS range, see roughly what the draw is, and then use a lower range if you can. Amp meter circuits are fused inside the meter, so you will blow the fuse if you overload it.

My truck with no alarm but with keyless entry pulls less than 50 mA keyoff.

If you can't find a fuse with a draw, try disconnecting the big wire on the alternator. Also, when reconnecting the battery, be alert for any clicks. No relay should energize when the key is off and battery is then connected. Try to track down any clicks to its source--that's your problem.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Here is a video that is not full explanatory, but gives a basic idea for amp testing:
Testing For Current Drain That Runs Down Car Battery - YouTube

 

[MStudt]

I think any Toyota dealer would cover the warranty and if it has the date on the battery you shouldn't need the receipt. I'd call the nearest dealer to make sure.

You can check the current using one of these:

Digital Multimeter - Save on this AC/DC Digital Multimeter

You need a meter that will read DC amps (a lot of cheap meters with clamps for reading amps only read AC amps). It should have a range of 20 amps or more.

Pull the hot leads from the battery and put the meter leads in series between the battery and the hot leads. DON'T HIT THE START KEY OR TURN ON THE IGNITION - it'll pull too much current and fry the meter. It should read any current being drawn by the electrical system. I'd check it attached to all the leads then remove the heavy wire to the starter, since that is not likely to be the problem (unless the current draw goes away when you remove that wire). After that, if you have more than 1 or 2 amps draw, I'd start pulling fuses until the current draw drops below that.

Here's how to wire it:

I would just add that you should start with the meter on its highest DC AMPS range, see roughly what the draw is, and then use a lower range if you can. Amp meter circuits are fused inside the meter, so you will blow the fuse if you overload it.

This is the meter I have. I think it should be plenty for what I need.

 

[MStudt]

Here is a video that is not full explanatory, but gives a basic idea for amp testing:
Testing For Current Drain That Runs Down Car Battery - YouTube

I did find a couple Youtube videos that gave the basics. First I get the battery in and just see what kind of amps is being drawn. What's a safe range of amps that I want to be in?