Dealers not doing billed maintenance

Damn...I've had all my scheduled maintenance done at toyota and now you've got me questioning whether they're actually doing it.

And the relatively bulletproof nature of the drivetrain means that you probably won't find out unless an honest shop tells out, or you see for yourself.
 
Last year, I wanted to verify the oil filter was changed, so I marked two (2) of the 10mm bolts with nail polish on the plastic splash guard in front of the skid plate and then proceeded to get an oil-filter change. After service it is obvious the 10mm bolts were not turned so I spoke with the shop foreman. He said they only remove the four (4) 12mm bolts on the skid plate and let it drop down. This means the plastic splash guard undergoes repeated flexing. At home, I wondered if the oil filter was changed. I lowered the skid plate and observed where oil had run down across the skid plate from the filter to the back edge and it was wiped clean.

Even if you marked a bolt with nail polish where it was tightened down, completely removed the bolt and the part, then put it back together and tightened the bolt back down....wouldn't the nail polish marks be right back in the exact location making it look like they were never removed? I am missing what you would solve by doing this here.
 
I've said it 1000X and I'll say it again. Dealer techs in general are clueless hacks. I bought my 2016 brand new and it's been back to the dealer for service exactly 0 times and that's how it will stay. I do all my own maintenance, always have, always will. Their "free" services are worth exactly what they cost.
 
Even if you marked a bolt with nail polish where it was tightened down, completely removed the bolt and the part, then put it back together and tightened the bolt back down....wouldn't the nail polish marks be right back in the exact location making it look like they were never removed? I am missing what you would solve by doing this here.

Nail polish was painted such that it filled an area between the head of a bolt and its adjacent washer and also an area between the washer and its surrounding plastic. It's a hard coating that will crack if the bolt is loosened, which is the telltale sign the bolt was turned even if the painted bolts are returned to the original places and precisely lined up with the painted marks (if one has good eyesight). Moreover, the shop manager did not dispute my claim that the bolts were not removed.

What are the odds a tech could have noticed both painted bolts, realized what they signified, turned them one-quarter turn, then tighten them and not change the filter? Very low odds, as I assumed they are working as fast as they can. One could also have painted a ribbon of polish across the filter housing and aluminum base it screws into. However, I didn't have time to remove the skid plate because I thought of doing this at the last minute before going to the dealer.
 
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Their "free" services are worth exactly what they cost.

I'm wondering if the cost of the first five (5) oil changes was prepaid in the purchase price of the new vehicle. Hence, not free. I think I read somewhere that someone realized this, refused the "free" oil changes and received a credit. Does anyone else recall reading this or am I imagining it?
 
I'm wondering if the cost of the first five (5) oil changes was prepaid in the purchase price of the new vehicle. Hence, not free. I think I read somewhere that someone realized this, refused the "free" oil changes and received a credit. Does anyone else recall reading this or am I imagining it?

I got three years toyotacare with my 16 4R and 19 Highlander. Never has either ever returned or will ever return for a single service. It’s just not worth the headache that is almost a guarantee. If you look over the many forums, you’ll see posts almost daily about under filled, over filled, broken bolts, missing bolts, skid plates falling off, leaks, oil fill caps left off, the list goes on. Thanks but no thanks.
 
I got three years toyotacare with my 16 4R and 19 Highlander. Never has either ever returned or will ever return for a single service. It’s just not worth the headache that is almost a guarantee. If you look over the many forums, you’ll see posts almost daily about under filled, over filled, broken bolts, missing bolts, skid plates falling off, leaks, oil fill caps left off, the list goes on. Thanks but no thanks.

My wife chose to use Toyotacare on her 4Runner while the vehicle was under warranty even though I could have serviced it. I told her the warranty would not be voided if I kept receipts, but she still wanted Toyotacare. I relented because she bought and paid for the vehicle, license and insurance from money she earns. When Toyotacare and the warranty ran out, I was pleased that the only issue I could find was an overtight filter housing. So, yes, we were lucky.
 
My wife chose to use Toyotacare on her 4Runner while the vehicle was under warranty even though I could have serviced it. I told her the warranty would not be voided if I kept receipts, but she still wanted Toyotacare. I relented because she bought and paid for the vehicle, license and insurance from money she earns. When Toyotacare and the warranty ran out, I was pleased that the only issue I could find was an overtight filter housing. So, yes, we were lucky.

Little super cheap upgrade is a Camry filter housing. They used aluminum rather than plastic. They’re about $22 for OEM and we’ll worth it. I swapped both mine out at the first oil change at 2000 miles. I like getting break in oil out on all my vehicles. First oil change at 2k second at 5k and every 5k after that. Probably overkill but cheap peace of mind. I serviced my diffs at 11k and was surprised at how dirty it was and how much crap was on the magnets. I was glad I did it and will do it every 30k or so. Again, probably overkill but oil can never be too clean.
 
Little super cheap upgrade is a Camry filter housing. They used aluminum rather than plastic. They’re about $22 for OEM and we’ll worth it. I swapped both mine out at the first oil change at 2000 miles. I like getting break in oil out on all my vehicles. First oil change at 2k second at 5k and every 5k after that. Probably overkill but cheap peace of mind. I serviced my diffs at 11k and was surprised at how dirty it was and how much crap was on the magnets. I was glad I did it and will do it every 30k or so. Again, probably overkill but oil can never be too clean.

I did the aluminum filter housing right away. I inspected and sampled warmed up differential oil at regular intervals. It was always clean. When I finally decided to change it at 100K, it was still like new, almost nothing suspended in it and the magnet had very little metal on it. Cleanest diff oil I've ever seen in 50 years of servicing my own vehicles. Special Operating Conditions do not apply with my vehicle, (no towing, car-top carrier, heavy vehicle loading, dirt roads, dusty roads and very little short trip driving.)
 
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I typically do my own wrenching. This is my first 4R and it came with two years service. I let the dealership do those services. I didn't have time so I let the same dealership do the wife's ES 350. When I got brave enough to do my own oil changes on both relatively new vehicles here's what I found.

Dealership used impact wrenches to remove the skid pan, broke several bolts and partially stripped one. Nobody told me a thing. This was a new vehicle that never went anywhere else. On the Lexus, the filter housing was so clean you would swear they cleaned it up so well that they didn't lose a drop of oil.

I do the wrenching on both of those vehicles and they only see a dealership for recall work and even then I don't like it. Nobody will treat my vehicle as good as I do.
 
I think this is more common than most of us think. It happened to me as well but not at a dealer but one of those Tires Plus places that I took my old Jeep XJ to for an oil change and tire rotation about 10yrs back. I used to beat that little SUV and only did oil changes every 10-12k miles. After getting it back from them, I went home and just randomly pulled out the dipstick to check the fluid levels and was surprised to see it was filthy dirty. Turns out they never actually did it and just did the tire rotation (which i'm not even sure they did either) and charged me for the oil change. I went right back and was offered 2 additional free oil changes. Learned to always double check after that.
 
I did the aluminum filter housing right away. I inspected and sampled warmed up differential oil at regular intervals. It was always clean. When I finally decided to change it at 100K, it was still like new, almost nothing suspended in it and the magnet had very little metal on it. Cleanest diff oil I've ever seen in 50 years of servicing my own vehicles. Special Operating Conditions do not apply with my vehicle, (no towing, car-top carrier, heavy vehicle loading, dirt roads, dusty roads and very little short trip driving.)

Interesting. My front diff was pretty clean, rear was not. Had probably 1/4” of metal dust on the magnet, looked like a donut. I’m sure you know what I mean. I’ve been lifted with big heavy tires since I rolled 300 miles but highly unlikely to have anything to do with it. We can tow 5000 pounds, a little added tire weight will never hurt anything. Plus it’s a Toyota lol
 
When I first bought my 4runner I was moving to Colorado. I had the first service done in Co at a dealer. I had been on a pretty big road trip and had done some light off roading by the time I hit 5k. During my 5k I told the dealer to go ahead and change the oil. I checked out paid for my oil change and when I got home I noticed on the paper it didn't say oil change. I called and asked are you sure you guys changed the oil. They said yeah they did. Hmmm.. I never confirmed it but I'm thinking now they didn't.
 
This is why its good to go to a family/solo owned ship instead of a dealer or quicklube place. Those places rely on lower prices and high volume for the easy jobs like fluid changes. You get some jr tech in high school who is paid minimum wage. The solo shops operate on word of mouth and job satisfaction. You might pay a little more but you usually don't get a rush job.
 
At Camelback Toyota, the service department categorizes the 4Runner as a car, not a truck. Oil change, check fluid levels and rotate tires for a car does not include chassis greasing. I would have to specify lube service for a truck, which then includes chassis greasing, and it costs an extra $100.

I just moved to Scottsdale. What dealer should I go to if I need to around here?
 
I just moved to Scottsdale. What dealer should I go to if I need to around here?

Camelback Toyota is the only Toyota dealer that's performed our service. I haven't had any issues with them (except that they never offered to grease the driveline). Here's something interesting: A Google search, "dealer service department ratings" brings up this website, Dealership Service Center Reviews & Ratings | DealerRater It claims to contain "Service Center Reviews and Helpful Consumer Information about car dealerships written by real people like you." Select Toyota to see all dealerships in a 50 mile radius. Camelback Toyota ranks lowest among all Toyota dealers in the valley, 3.5/5.0 stars in 64 reviews. Right Toyota, Scottsdale, ranks 4.5 /5.0 in 491 reviews. Select "Service Reviews Only in the drop down box" when you get to the Right Toyota Reviews.
 
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After service it is obvious the 10mm bolts were not turned so I spoke with the shop foreman. He said they only remove the four (4) 12mm bolts on the skid plate and let it drop down. This means the plastic splash guard undergoes repeated flexing.

I don't know if you mean the smaller plastic piece that's forward of the bigger metal splash guard or Toyota went cheap somewhere after 2014 and replaced the 15 lb. metal guard with plastic.

In my case, the large metal guard has "S" hooks on the front. That would be all that's holding up that heavy metal guard. Eventually those "S" hooks would break from hanging.
 
My local dealer has a new policy that any cameras on the vehicle, such as a dash cam, has to be disconnected before they take it in. I'm guessing they had too many people using dash cam vids as evidence of work not done, or done incorrectly, or other bad behavior.
 
My local dealer has a new policy that any cameras on the vehicle, such as a dash cam, has to be disconnected before they take it in. I'm guessing they had too many people using dash cam vids as evidence of work not done, or done incorrectly, or other bad behavior.

Shady...I would go to another dealership. I’ve been to a few shops and no one has had a problem with my dash cam.
 
I don't know if you mean the smaller plastic piece that's forward of the bigger metal splash guard ... the large metal guard has "S" hooks on the front. That would be all that's holding up that heavy metal guard. Eventually those "S" hooks would break from hanging.

The skid plate is metal and has 2 hooks at the forward edge. There's a plastic piece bolted between the lower edge of the bumper (3 bolts) and the forward edge of the skid plate (2 bolts painted with nail polish). Dealer did not remove the plastic piece. My dealer unbolts the skid plate and allows it to hang on 2 forward hooks. Skid plate was still attached to the plastic piece because the 2 bolts painted with nail polish were not disturbed. Therefore, the plastic piece is flexed when the skid plate is hanging by the forward hooks.
 

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