Detailing Product? Klasse AIO-Sealant or DP Paint Coating?

jicko

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I use Klasse All-in-one polish and Sealant Glaze on my Porsche and BMW.
How To Properly Apply Klasse All IN ONE and Klasse Sealant Glase. Enthusiasts have always relied on the consistent quality of Klasse products during their journeys into the exciting and deep world of car care.

I just got the 4Runner, while the paint is still brand new, I am trying to figure out if I want to continue my previous route or try something new.

Anyone has experience with DP Paint Coating?
Detailer’s Paint Coating, nano paint sealant, ceramic paint coating, nano paint coating

Or maybe I should do both? DP Paint Coating first, and then Klasse?

What other products do you guys use on your 4Runners?
 
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I've always used meguiars products. Before winter hit I applied a show car glaze topped with a few coats of high tech yellow wax, amazing results and still sheets water.
 
if your truck is brand spanking new, i would use the Klasse Sealant Glaze first to start with a "perfect" foundation straight off.

personally, i use Klasse AIO followed by Collinite 845 once or twice a year. even better if you do... wash > clay bar > Klasse AIO > Klasse SG > Collinite. but honestly, AIO + Collinite delivers pretty amazing results and so easy to do (time consuming, though).
 
I use klasse sealant glaze on my old Tacoma which sees a lot of time on the beach and it's still my favorite. It seems to hold up best to the hot salt air down here. It doesn't give the deep shine some of the others do but it seems to go the extra mile as far as paint protection goes. Any way that's my 2 cents for what it's worth...
 
What is it that's happening to your paint without these products that you're trying to protect?

I can understand easy to clean and wanting it to be shiny. I often spray my underside with PAM veg oil before muddy trips. I also regularly wax my cars and once a year or so get out the 7" buffer and machine polish set and remove all the scratches and swirl marks. So I'm not opposed to vanity at all.

Is there something more than that that you think this product is doing?
 
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Cleaning, Claying, Polishing and Waxing a 4runner is a big job, and is not something I would want to do multiple times a year, or even once a year.

I am a big fan of Optimum's Opti-Coat\Opti-Guard. Most people see these new coatings as snake oil, but I have first hand experience they are not.

I had Opti-Guard applied 1.5 years ago, and it still looks great to this day! The only "Maintenance" I have done is regular washing. At some point, I will probley do a light claying and maybe a light polish, but I rather have a minor scratch in my coating, then to lose the coating by polishing it away.

What is great about the coating, is that is a 2ml thick sacrificial layer that if it gets scratched, the scratches can be polished out of the coating, and the factory clear doesn't get touched. Also, contaminants, dirt and ect don't stick to it as well as the factory clear. Bird Poop, Tar, Bugs, ect are easily removed during the regular wash. Bird Poop can be removed easily with a wet paper towel! In addition, Opti-Coat is also Chemically resistant.

Opti-Guard is a "Lifetime" coating, and can only be removed by polishing it off. After seeing how it has held up after 1.5 years, and 30k miles, I believe it! It is nice to never have to worry about waxing my 4runner again, and knowing it will remain protected and looking good with just normal washes!

Recent wash, after 3 weeks of DD Duty:
OptiGuardYearLater3s_zps5fd14d56.jpg~original


OptiGuardYearLater7s_zpsb28b41af.jpg~original


OptiGuardYearLater9s_zpse427d63a.jpg~original


OptiGuardYearLater1s_zps0cc3c6aa.jpg~original


My paint is pretty much swirl and scratch free, there are a couple of minor areas with light scratching, but they can only be seen in the right light. Also, the lower sides and rear that get hit with most of the dirt and contaminants doesn't bead as well, but a light claying would bring back the beading properties to those areas. I haven't bothered doing that since I haven't had time, and the contaminants are just sitting on the coating, which worst case scenario could always just be removed, and re-applied.

Also, this is probley the worst site to talk about detailing, as most of our members aren't interested in that kind of thing. Before choosing any type of product, look it up in the popular detailing forums. Most products have lengthy reviews by the forum members, most of which are either pro detailers or enthusiasts.

AutoGeek is my favorite Detailing Forum:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/
 
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What is it that's happening to your paint without these products that you're trying to protect?

I can understand easy to clean and wanting it to be shiny. I often spray my underside with PAM veg oil before muddy trips. I also regularly wax my cars and once a year or so get out the 7" buffer and machine polish set and remove all the scratches and swirl marks. So I'm not opposed to vanity at all.

Is there something more than that that you think this product is doing?

A lot of it is just being a hobbyist, isn't that all we are? Doing mods, going wheeling, detailing, etc...

But also, applying the right products, using them the right way/right techniques, make a whole world of difference...... making future maintaining so much easier, much less effort (a comparison would be like installing an oil drain valve.... you do that once, and any future oil change is going to be so much easier!)

One benefit of these "latest hype - coatings & sealants" is that you can keep your paint like new, show-car shine, dirt-free much longer...... requiring less washes.... making any wash easy and efficient.... and re-applying of sealants / wax per like 1 or 2 yrs....

Here is my 16yrs old toy car, its a daily driver, not a garage queen, and I used Klasse AIO + Klasse Sealant on it, like once every 2yrs:
117116980_701520955066292523_n-vi.jpg


Show car shine, looks like I am doing a lot of maintaining, but just the opposite.... its minimal work to get it back like this..... a quick wash, sheeting, then drying it with 1 towel (don't even have to wring once for the whole car)

Also, this is probley the worst site to talk about detailing, as most of our members aren't interested in that kind of thing.

I hear ya.... LOL :-D
 
What are you guys using to apply these materials? By hand, orbital, etc.? I've never used a rotary, but my brother swears by his Porter Cable. I'm more interested in treating my wife's fancy car, and will probably stick to my Meguiar regimen (wash/wax) with the 4R.
 
What are you guys using to apply these materials? By hand, orbital, etc.? I've never used a rotary, but my brother swears by his Porter Cable. I'm more interested in treating my wife's fancy car, and will probably stick to my Meguiar regimen (wash/wax) with the 4R.

A Porter Cable 7424xp is a solid choice.

Porter cable 7424xp, 7424xp, Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher, Porter Cable polisher, car polisher, buffer, sander-polisher

You will also want to get a good hook and loop backplate for the pads, and make sure you also get good pads, and use the right ones for the right jobs.

I like Lake County CCS pads. Here is a good resource on the pads:

Learn how to use the Porter Cable 7424 dual action buffer with CCS Smart Pads by Lake Country. Polish swirl remover car wax polisher wax buffing pad

To start, I would recommend getting 2 of each of the following color pads:

Orange - For Compounding or Heavy Polishing
White - For Finish Polishing
Red - For Applying wax

Also, most people don't understand what types of products to use for what job, and what order to go in. Here is a good reference for that:

flowchart.jpg


The above chart covers all of the different types of products, but for the hobbies, this is all you really need:

1. Clay Bar
2. Medium to Heavy Cut Polish (Only for the really bad areas)
3. Finish Polish
4. Wax or Sealant

If you choose the right products, you can get away with only having one for each of the above 4 categories.
 
What are you guys using to apply these materials? By hand, orbital, etc.? I've never used a rotary, but my brother swears by his Porter Cable. I'm more interested in treating my wife's fancy car, and will probably stick to my Meguiar regimen (wash/wax) with the 4R.

I am just doing everything by hand.... right now my SR5P is brand new.... so, minimal prep....

My other cars, as they have been protected all along, hand polish is good enough.... not a lot of work...
 
Griots garage, mine is black and the results are pretty impressive, took about 4 hours and should last a year. Wash, clay, Polish, seal, wax using the random orbital.
 
I am just doing everything by hand.... right now my SR5P is brand new.... so, minimal prep....

My other cars, as they have been protected all along, hand polish is good enough.... not a lot of work...

Mine is silver, and doesn't show a whole lot of flaws. The wife has a Galactic grey mica or something and it shows swirls like crazy. I clayed and waxed by hand once but the swirls are still there--I'm guessing from the dealer car wash. Looks like I need to step up my game.
 

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