Differential fill and drain bolt size
- Thread starter Dondell
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Chandlerdoom
New member
24 for the rear
10 and 12 hex for the front if you have a 96-98 99-02 uses just a 10 hex
24 for the t case
Edit: seeing as you are in Chicago, buy some pb blaster too and soak it overnight
10 and 12 hex for the front if you have a 96-98 99-02 uses just a 10 hex
24 for the t case
Edit: seeing as you are in Chicago, buy some pb blaster too and soak it overnight
TheDurk
Elite Member
I thought the newer ones use just the 12mm. In any case, with absolute certainty (I am original owner and my plugs are also original), my '99 came with a 12mm hex in front on both fill and drain. To be safe, have a 12mm available since I believe the replacement plugs sold by Toyota are 12mm regardless of what was in there originally and the plug may have been changed.
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Diesel_Dog
New member
Remove the fill plug first before you remove the drain. If the fill doesn't come out you can still drive around. If you drain it first and can't get the fill open, then your in a pickle.
eatmorechickenx
New member
Sherwood4Runner
New member
As an aside...an impact drill makes this job much easier. While definitely a luxury, some of those drain/fill bolts are stuck on there super tight and the soft metal is really easy to round off. I've almost rounded one using a breaker bar. The front diff bolts are by far the hardest to get off...and this is coming from a guy with a PNW truck with no rust and no exposure to road salt.
Do NOT use an impact on drain plugs, it's a good way to strip out the threads in the drain pan, diff, case etc.
DO use a six sided short socket on a breaker bar (I used a 16" 1/2" drive) rather than a deep well or an twelve point. The closer you are to the plug the less likely you are to slip and round it out.
DEFINITELY change the crush washers and use the appropriate washer for each application.
ALWAYS remove the fill plug first so if the drain plug rounds off or won't budge you can drive to a shop to have a nut tacked onto the plug and removed.
It's RECOMMEND that you use a torque wrench for installation of the drain plugs.
Transmission 75w-90 GL4 only 2.3qt
Drain
Crush washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex magnetic plug 27ft-lbs
Fill
Crush washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug 27ft-lbs
Front diff 75w 90 GL5 1.2qt
Drain
Crush Washer 90430-24003
10mm magnetic allen head plug (2000) 48ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 12157-10010
10mm allen head plug (2000) 29ft-lbs
Transfer case75w-90 GL5 1.1q
Drain
Crush Washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug magnetic 27ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug 27ft-lbs
Rear Diff 75(80)w-90 gl5 2.6 or 3.1 with locker
Drain
Crush Washer 12157-10010
24mm Magnetic Hex 36ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 12157-10010
24mm Hex 36ft-lbs
DO use a six sided short socket on a breaker bar (I used a 16" 1/2" drive) rather than a deep well or an twelve point. The closer you are to the plug the less likely you are to slip and round it out.
DEFINITELY change the crush washers and use the appropriate washer for each application.
ALWAYS remove the fill plug first so if the drain plug rounds off or won't budge you can drive to a shop to have a nut tacked onto the plug and removed.
It's RECOMMEND that you use a torque wrench for installation of the drain plugs.
Transmission 75w-90 GL4 only 2.3qt
Drain
Crush washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex magnetic plug 27ft-lbs
Fill
Crush washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug 27ft-lbs
Front diff 75w 90 GL5 1.2qt
Drain
Crush Washer 90430-24003
10mm magnetic allen head plug (2000) 48ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 12157-10010
10mm allen head plug (2000) 29ft-lbs
Transfer case75w-90 GL5 1.1q
Drain
Crush Washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug magnetic 27ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 90430-A0003
24mm hex plug 27ft-lbs
Rear Diff 75(80)w-90 gl5 2.6 or 3.1 with locker
Drain
Crush Washer 12157-10010
24mm Magnetic Hex 36ft-lbs
Fill
Crush Washer 12157-10010
24mm Hex 36ft-lbs
Sherwood4Runner
New member
I just meant to use the impact to REMOVE the bolts. By no means should you use it to tighten them, lest you risk stripping out the threads which would really really suck.
Didn't see your post, wasn't a stab, I had just posted this someplace else so it was a copy pasta. I made this up when I did my fluids a bit ago. An impact to remove may be okay, but I have seen plenty of guys round out the plug heads or strip out the threads even taking them out, some times (especially if a crush washer wasn't used) they can be really in there and shocking it can tear the threads up. especially oil drain plugs, those pans are made from hopes and dreams.
I do! For my Mazda, haha! That's strange that you had a 23mm, all plugs (minus the 10mm allens) are 24 on my truck. 2000 SR5
Brique
New member
15/16" works too. Just make sure it's a six point socket as stated above. A twelve point runs a real risk of stripping.
I couldn't find the appropriate size six point in metric when I was doing mine, so I used the 15/16" and it worked fine. I'll add that the sucker was on so tight that I had to use my floor jack to push up on the breaker bar and I didn't strip it.
On the front, the bastard was so tight that it snapped the breaker bar at the point where the socket attaches. Home depot was great about giving me a replacement without hassle.
I couldn't find the appropriate size six point in metric when I was doing mine, so I used the 15/16" and it worked fine. I'll add that the sucker was on so tight that I had to use my floor jack to push up on the breaker bar and I didn't strip it.
On the front, the bastard was so tight that it snapped the breaker bar at the point where the socket attaches. Home depot was great about giving me a replacement without hassle.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but does anyone have the part numbers for the rear differential fill bolt? Mine was stripped by the previous owners. I am at the office or I would search the FSM.
Edit, google works magic. complete parts list located in this excellent thread:
omitted, write up was for a 4th gen
Edit, google works magic. complete parts list located in this excellent thread:
omitted, write up was for a 4th gen
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Scramble
New member
Post #8 has all the info you need.
giovannie23
New member
That's for 4th gens just a heads up
Post 8 only has the part numbers for the crush washers/gaskets.
Good looking out, I somehow failed to notice that.
For what it's worth, the part number for the rear differential fill plug, the one that frequently gets rounded off, is 90341‑18006. This part number is the same for both 3rd and 4th gens.
My saga (short version)
The rear diff was rusted to hell and it took about 24 hours of PB blasting, hammering, straining until I finally tried the "car-jack-on-the-ratchet" trick and it worked. The oil was black and goopy but it was full.
The transfer case nuts came off easily and the fluid was in good shape, but still changed it.
The front diff fill bolt came off easily but the drain bolt got half-stripped when I used my foot to push on the ratchet. I put my finger in the fill hole and couldn't feel liquid anywhere! So Ill let it soak in PB Blaster some more.
The rear diff was rusted to hell and it took about 24 hours of PB blasting, hammering, straining until I finally tried the "car-jack-on-the-ratchet" trick and it worked. The oil was black and goopy but it was full.
The transfer case nuts came off easily and the fluid was in good shape, but still changed it.
The front diff fill bolt came off easily but the drain bolt got half-stripped when I used my foot to push on the ratchet. I put my finger in the fill hole and couldn't feel liquid anywhere! So Ill let it soak in PB Blaster some more.
I love PB but my oldest son got a 97 Ranger that was from Ohio back in 2013. we discovered some stuff called Kroil. (aero kroil for the aerosol version) Only available from industrial suppliers. about 13 bucks a can. worth every penny when needed.
then About a year ago saw an article comparing penetrating oils that put it at the top of the list for commercially available products. But it also used a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and lacquer thinner did better than anything at freeing frozen bolts. I havent personally tried that one.
