Diffs and Transfer Oil

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Senior Member
I just completed oil change in all 3. Used 75W-90 Royal Purple Synthetic. Interesting observation: transfer case oil came out really thin almost like an 30 weight engine oil (and no, i didn't drain engine oil pan) instead of 75W it supose to be. Putting 75W-90 seem so much thicker. Any ideas why? Factory error? New and clean fluid 10,000 miles on it. Factory calls for 75W straight but I don't see any issue going 75W-90 in transfer case. Any suggestions?
 
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I just completed oil change in all 3. Used 75W-90 Royal Purple Synthetic. Interesting observation: transfer case oil came out really thin almost like an 30 weight engine oil (and no, i didn't drain engine oil pan) instead of 75W it supose to be. Putting 75W-90 seem so much thicker. Any ideas why? Factory error? New and clean fluid 10,000 miles on it. Factory calls for 75W straight but I don't see any issue going 75W-90 in transfer case. Any suggestions?
keep an eye on your MPG. i've heard that (the more readily available, cheaper) 75w-90 in the transfer case dings your fuel efficiency. planning to pony up for the straight 75w when i change mine out.

did you change yours at only 10k? :confused:
 
I just completed oil change in all 3. Used 75W-90 Royal Purple Synthetic. Interesting observation: transfer case oil came out really thin almost like an 30 weight engine oil (and no, i didn't drain engine oil pan) instead of 75W it supose to be. Putting 75W-90 seem so much thicker. Any ideas why? Factory error? New and clean fluid 10,000 miles on it. Factory calls for 75W straight but I don't see any issue going 75W-90 in transfer case. Any suggestions?

Seeing that 75w-85 is thinner then 75w-90, I would ASSume that 75w should be thinner then 75w-90. I know that Toyota uses that 75w stuff in the transfer for Fuel Economy reasons. It is stupid expensive, and so far, Toyota is the only ones that make it. What is even better is that it cost about $55 a liter, and just barley takes more then 1 to fill your transfer. Here is a post from a member who reported a hit in MPG after swapping the factory fill 75w with 75w-90.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/78892-transfer-differential-oil-change-2.html#post1001276

Here is a good thread on transfer case lube:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/125838-transfer-case-lube.html

I changed my factory fills (75w-85) of the front and rear diffs, with Amsoil 75w-90 and haven't notice any difference. I haven't yet touched the 75w in the transfer yet.

I am curious on what other forum members are using in their transfer cases, and if they have noticed any differences, and if it is bad for the transfer case to use 75w-90 instead of the 75w weight that is called for.
 
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I changed the factory fill in the 2010 rear diff. (RWD) @ 76k. Truck has been pretty much a pavement queen and never seen much dust or been in water. It came out looking clean and I almost regretted pulling the plug. Magnetic plug had the normal black 'fuzz' on it.

It was replaced with Mobil Delvac 75w-90. I've noticed no difference whatsoever over the factory gear oil.
 
Newbie question...how do you guys check the diff/transfer oil? Some people changed at 30k, others at 60k, or 75k, but how do you check it?

I don't tow or off road...how do I know that I need to change the oil for diff and transfer case? I never check it, I have only 27k miles (2012 SR5 4x4)
 
Newbie question...how do you guys check the diff/transfer oil? Some people changed at 30k, others at 60k, or 75k, but how do you check it?

I don't tow or off road...how do I know that I need to change the oil for diff and transfer case? I never check it, I have only 27k miles (2012 SR5 4x4)

It is real easy to check, simply remove the upper plug and stick a (clean) finger in the hole, the fluid should be right there at the bottom edge of the fill hole.

I first changed my rear diff lube around 15k miles, it was fairly dark in color and there was some metal fuzz on the magnet. I think this was due to break in. Later changes have been pretty clean and not had much metal on magnet.

I do not tow or off road either, so I did not change the front diff and transfer case until around 60k miles. they were still pretty clean.
 
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You won't notice a difference in MPG upgrading to high grade synthetic because the factory 75W fluid is synthetic. It only comes in synthetic.
 
It is real easy to check, simply remove the upper plug and stick a (clean) finger in the hole, the fluid should be right there at the bottom edge of the fill hole.

I first changed my rear diff lube around 15k miles, it was fairly dark in color and there was some metal fuzz on the magnet. I think this was due to break in. Later changes have been pretty clean and not had much metal on magnet.

I do not tow or off road either, so I did not change the front diff and transfer case until around 60k miles. they were still pretty clean.

Thanks, I've thought is more complicated, but looks pretty easy.
Another dumb question: There are more fluids to change if you have a Trail or Limited? Or, it's the same for all...front and rear diff, transfer case oil?

Thanks.
 
I don't know about the Limited they have a different transfer case than the Trail and SR5.

I changed the coolant and serpentine belt at 100k miles, that was fairly easy to do myself.

I took mine to the dealer for the transmission fluid change at 60k miles. The procedure seemed just a little more complicated than I wanted to mess with myself.

I have not changed the power steering fluid yet at 113k miles, it still seems fine. My previous vehicle, a Grand Cherokee would momentarily loose power steering on left turns if I did not change the fluid every 100k miles or so.

I am nearly ready to need the spark plugs changed, have not decided if I want to do it myself or have it done at dealer. My warranty expires at 125k miles, so thinking about taking it in and having them change the plugs and looking everything over.
 

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