Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build

[TravThePro]

My build is kinda similar(suspension wise) but is 100x as ugly and probably doesn't get nearly the same attention you get. Absolutely wicked build so far, you planning on SAS? Thanks for sharing!

 

[Dirtco]

Due to Photobucket's new 3rd party hosting policy this thread is now done, but you can continue to see updates here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/243848-dirtcos-adventure-thread.html

:hello:

 

[VMRamos]

This thread is a literal gold mine! Thank you for providing such detailed information on your build. It's much appreciated to noobs like me. [emoji28] (super envious on how perfect your leather seats are)


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[97t4r81]

142 pages done. Awesome rig.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Not trying to be a plunger and bring up old sh*t but I was curious what size tubing you used for the front and rear bumpers. That rear bumper is amazing

 

[sbuttr]

Just came across this build and wanted to say awesome work! great looking rig

 

[matphat]

This thread is mind blowing. I've been considering building a 3rd gen and this really has my gears turning. Would you mind my asking, what was the ball park figure to build this monster? I'd like to start getting my head around the figures to help me figure out my budget.

 

[rickashay]

I took it for a drive and the steering felt like it had a little more resistance to it. I brought it back to the shop and loosened the slip shaft to release any tension that might be stored. I also looked at the spacer from another angle and it looks like this.

The studs are bottoming out in the machined voids and stressing the rag joint. So... I'm sure it costs more to machine a void, than to drill a hole. Does anyone know why they are constructed this way? Is this done on purpose? In stock form there is no pressure on the studs. I'm not complaining about the product, it just seems odd to me.

Hey Jeremiah, sorry to bump such an old post but I just threw my 1" Toytec bodylift in and since putting it all back together my steering is very very stiff. After referencing the photo above, I think mine is also being stressed at the rag joint and I have zero threads showing on the bolts that hold the spacer in place, so it might be binding even more than yours was. Curious what your solution was for this? Did you drill the holes on the spacer all the way through? Thanks for documenting the issue and giving me someone to ask for this!

 

[rideexileex]

Hey Jeremiah, sorry to bump such an old post but I just threw my 1" Toytec bodylift in and since putting it all back together my steering is very very stiff. After referencing the photo above, I think mine is also being stressed at the rag joint and I have zero threads showing on the bolts that hold the spacer in place, so it might be binding even more than yours was. Curious what your solution was for this? Did you drill the holes on the spacer all the way through? Thanks for documenting the issue and giving me someone to ask for this!

Does it not look like this one?
4Crawler Offroad - Custom Body Lift Kits

 

[Dirtco]

Hey Jeremiah, sorry to bump such an old post but I just threw my 1" Toytec bodylift in and since putting it all back together my steering is very very stiff. After referencing the photo above, I think mine is also being stressed at the rag joint and I have zero threads showing on the bolts that hold the spacer in place, so it might be binding even more than yours was. Curious what your solution was for this? Did you drill the holes on the spacer all the way through? Thanks for documenting the issue and giving me someone to ask for this!

Hi Addison! Yes, I ended up drilling out the holes. I also made sure that the slip and rag joint assembly were bottomed out and as close to factory as possible. I still have my spacer if you run into any issues and need one.

Also, make sure to check your body mount bolts time to time. I had a super annoying clucking sound I could not figure out for months, turns out one of the body mount bolts was "tight" but the nut was bottomed out on the bolt and the body had settled into the puck. I had to add a washer or two to take up the play and make everything tight.

 

[Dirtco]

This thread is mind blowing. I've been considering building a 3rd gen and this really has my gears turning. Would you mind my asking, what was the ball park figure to build this monster? I'd like to start getting my head around the figures to help me figure out my budget.

Thank you! I've made the mistake of adding up a previous build and will never do it again. I have way too much money (and time) into this vehicle, I still have all the receipts but it would be depressing to add it all up. I've also gone through several different phases so it's hard to figure out what the current build is worth. My rule of thumb is add up everything you need and add 25%-50%, that's for parts not labor.

 

[Dirtco]

Not trying to be a plunger and bring up old sh*t but I was curious what size tubing you used for the front and rear bumpers. That rear bumper is amazing

No problem, 1.75"

 

[KaletheVeggie]

Love the Build! You've done a great job with it

 

[rickashay]

Does it not look like this one?
4Crawler Offroad - Custom Body Lift Kits

Yes but for some stupid reason Toytec milled the holes into the spacer instead of drilling them all the way through. I am pretty sure my bolts are bottoming out in the milled holes, stressing out the joint. I'll have to remove it and try fully drilling it through as Jeremiah did below.

Hi Addison! Yes, I ended up drilling out the holes. I also made sure that the slip and rag joint assembly were bottomed out and as close to factory as possible. I still have my spacer if you run into any issues and need one.

Also, make sure to check your body mount bolts time to time. I had a super annoying clucking sound I could not figure out for months, turns out one of the body mount bolts was "tight" but the nut was bottomed out on the bolt and the body had settled into the puck. I had to add a washer or two to take up the play and make everything tight.

Thanks for the notes. I loosened my slip joint and gave it a whack with a hammer to loosen any tension in there and it seemed to make my steering lighter but I still think the spacer will need to be fully drilled. Should be easy enough to do but it sucks I'll have to undo all the drivers bodymounts, jack the body up, to get enough room to get the spacer out again. Maybe I can find a shortcut in the dash instead....

Thanks for the notes on the clunk. Will re check them after some miles.

 

[T4Rchadly]

hands down my most favorite t4r build