Dirtco's 1999 4Runner Build

Dirtco

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1999 Limited 4Runner – Autumn Blaze Metallic

Current Pictures - March 2017











Modifications…

Suspension:

- Front: ToyTec BOSS Coilovers
- SPC / Light Racing UCA's
- Energy Suspension LCA bushings
- Sonoran Steel 1” diff drop
- Limit straps (Sonoran Steel and Poly Performance)
- Front sway bar removed
- Timbren front bumpstops
- Welded alignment cam tabs
- Rear: OME 861 Coil Springs
- Toyota "Tokico" black 80-Series Land Cruiser shocks
- ToyTec HD Adjustable lower control arms
- ToyTec HD Adjustable pan hard bar w/ adjustable bracket
- Gusseted upper stock panhard bracket
- ToyTec HD Adjustable upper control arms
- Custom limit straps (Poly performance)
- Rear sway bar removed
- Rear lower shock mounts relocated higher
- Extended progressive rate rear bumpstops
- Toytec 1” bodylift

Wheels and Tires:

- Trailready 17x9 HD Beadlocks (3.5” backspace)
- Super Swamper Irok Radial, 36x13.50x17 Load Range E (Custom Grooved)
- Powertank Monster valves
- TG 1" Wheel spacers (Front)

Drivetrain:

- Front: 5:29’s with ARB locker (built by ECGS)
- Lotus Development front CV axle shafts
- Safari LTD HD Steering rack
- Wheeler’s Off-Road steering rack bushings
- New Toyota inner/outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints
- Tack welded steering shaft
- Total Chaos spindle gussets
- Extended Breather with filter
- Royal Purple gear oil
- Rear: 5:29’s with the factory E-locker (built by ECGS)
- HD .120 wall rear CV driveshaft (Rocky Mountain Driveline)
- TG Rock Assault housing
- FROR Full Float kit w/ 4130 chromoly axles
- TG Chromoly spindles, wheel hubs, and drive flanges
- Custom machined seal adapters
- Geniune Koyo wheel bearings, ARP Hub studs
- Extended breather
- Royal Purple gear oil

Engine and Performance:

- 1st Gen TRD supercharger (Rebuilt)
- URD 7th injector kit
- URD 2.2 Pulley
- Relocated fresh air intake
- AFE Dry Flow cold air intake
- TRD dynamic tensioner kit
- Flowmaster Deltaflow 50 series, w/ custom tailpipe
- Duralast Platinum AGM H8 w/ custom mount
- B&M transmission cooler
- Genuine Toyota Block heater
- Genuine Toyota Timing belt and water pump

Brakes:

- Front - Tundra 231mm 13wl calipers
- Genuine Toyota Tundra rotors / pads
- Wheeler's Off-Road stainless steel brake lines
- Rear disc brake conversion- 1986 4cyl calipers and pads w/ FJ60 Rotors
- Adjustable rear proportioning valve

Lighting:

- Ebay headlight housings, OSRAM bulbs
- Burtman Clear corners w/ LED bulbs
- LED Front turn signals
- LED Tail lights w/ Superbright LED reverse bulbs
- Rigid Industries 10” Single Row Specter (Driving) light bar
- Rigid Industries 10" Single Row (Spot) light bar
- Rigid Industries Dually D2 driving lights (wired to factory fog switch)
- Rigid Industries Dually D2 Hyper spot lights
- Rydel Fab LED Lightbar (Removed for Tacoma)
- Superbright LED interior dome lights, License plate light
- Rear deck/hatch LED camp light
- Rocklights – Rigid SRM's and Oznium LED’s
- Reverse light - Single Rigid Industries Dually D2 Diffused
- Under body reverse lights - Rigid SRM's Diffused
- LED Maglite – Mounted to D/S seat

Interior/Electrical:

- Custom PRP Daily Driver seat with heat and custom mount
- Pioneer AVH-P3400BH headunit
- Alpine amp
- 10" Rockford Fosgate subwoofer
- Rockford Fosgate speakers (front and rear)
- Sound deadening on all doors and rear cargo area
- Plug in USB charging port
- Dual USB charging port - switched
- Uniden Pro 520 XL CB radio and Wilson 4' flex antenna
- SPOT GPS messaging & locating beacon
- Garmin GPS w/ Ram Mount
- Trailer wiring (Stock & Aux for trailer goodies)
- Weathertech floormats front/rear
- Scangauge II

Camping and “Overland” Gear:

- Custom cargo and sleeping platform
- Indel B Fridge/Freezer on custom slide out
- Kitchen slide out with built in Coleman grill/stove
- Multiple LED lights, USB ports, and 12 volt outlets
- Carbon fiber wrapped rear side windows, side window screens and divider curtain
- Low profile roof rack with ARB awning, Hi Lift jack, Splitting axe, and 40" remote controlled LED light bar
- 15 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank with transfer pump
- Trasharoo with pine scented trash bags

Exterior / Accessories:

- Fender flares and cladding removed, holes filled and body bedlined
- Firewall tubbed, front and rear fenders trimmed and enlarged
- Clear bra (24” hood/fenders and headlights)
- 3M Carbon fiber wrapped door posts
- Ford E-350 horns
- 20% Tint on all side and rear windows
- AVS In-channel vent visors

Armor / Protection / Recovery:

- Custom built Front Bumper
- Smittybuilt X2O 12,000 winch w/ Masterpull Superline XD
- In-cab winch controller
- Custom built Rear bumper
- Custom built Spare tire carrier
- Custom built Rock sliders
- Lil’ Skip gas tank skid plate
- Inchworm E-locker guard
- Budbuilt front and belly pan (heavily modified)
- Lotus lower control arm skid plates
- Custom lower shock bolt protectors
- 20lb CO2 Tank, tools, recovery gear
 
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I’ve been lurking around this site since I bought my 3rd Gen and I have found a lot of great ideas, along with tons of technical information. I figured it was time to post my build thread and add to the collection. While I’m new to the 3rd Gen 4Runner and IFS, I have plenty of experience with the older 1st Gen 4Runners! I started working on it a few months ago so I will need to get everyone up to speed.

This 4Runner is going to be built for moderate trails and snow wheeling, but it will also see some harder trails like Holy Cross and Chinamans. It's my daily driver so it needs to stay nice and be comfortable on the highway. It also needs to pull the camping trailer I've been building. I'm still working out a lot of the details, but here is the basic plan:

35" tires on 17" Beadlock wheels
SS1.2 lift
1" body lift
5.29 gears
Front ARB locker
Bumpers, Sliders and a whole lot of skidplates/armor
Winch (or winches) w/ synthetic rope
Etc, etc, etc :D

And here is the 4Runner shortly after I got it. I removed the running boards, trimmed the rear mud flaps and installed the clear corner marker lights.

1999 Limited 4Runner - Autumn Blaze Metallic
Supercharged 3.4
Auto
E-locker
115K

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And a couple side shots for future reference… ;)

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Before I get too far along, I should start with a little history…

I never thought the day would come, but it did, and I sold the Turbo 4Runner. After 10 years of daily driving fully built mid 80’s Toyotas, it was time to drive something a little newer, more comfortable and more powerful. I only have one parking space where I live, so the vehicle I have is the vehicle I drive. It’s sad to see it go, but it’s also exciting to start another project.

This is the Turbo 4Runner
Build thread – DIRTCO's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread - YotaTech Forums

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looks like you have lots of experience.. I've always been in love with that color. I'm definitely subscribed and looking forward to the build.
 
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I've been reading your build over on YT... Very nice work so far. The 35's look mean on there. The Turbo 'Runner was sick too.
 
looks like you have lots of experience.. I've always been in love with that color. I'm definitely subscribed and looking forward to the build.

Thanks! I didn't know how to feel about the color at first, but once I saw it out in the sun it was awesome. I wouldn't trade it for any other color.

Those runners are sick! Love the red one!

Thanks, it was really hard to sell the red one but it should be worth it once this one is done.
 
I've been reading your build over on YT... Very nice work so far. The 35's look mean on there. The Turbo 'Runner was sick too.

Thanks! I've read through your build several times and your attention to detail is amazing, you have one sweet rig! I have also read/used a couple your specific write ups and they have been very helpful. I know it's a time consuming process, but your helping out a lot of people.
 
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While I was waiting for the Turbo 4Runner to sell I started with some easy stuff. I had the front windows tinted and installed some Weathertech floormats; they are awesome!

A nice flashlight is a must have on the trail. In the last 4Runner I had it mounted in the rear cargo area which was hard to access when you needed it. For this 4Runner I mounted it on the driver seat, which is easy to get to and 100% out of the way.

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The stock battery was not going to cut it; with a winch, stereo and several lights I needed something better. In the past I have always had Optima’s, but after a little research it seems that the quality has gone downhill.

I decided to install a Die Hard Platinum marine battery. It’s a rebadged Odyssey battery, with a Sears warranty and the price of an Optima battery. While I was installing it I cleaned up the battery cables and made a new battery hold down.

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That 86 is sweet! I can imagine it would be hard selling that thing.

What type of maglite holders did you get? I really like the spot you put it in.
 
Next up was the body lift. I hate body lifts, but with a 3rd Gen you don't have a whole lot of choices. I want this rig to set as low as possible without creating a bunch of work, but I couldn't talk myself into ordering a 1.5" or 2.0" kit yet. So I ordered a 1" kit from Toytec, it should give me a little more clearace without being noticeable. I can always step to a larger one if I have to.

I didn't bother taking any pictures during the process, I'm sure there are plenty out there and it's a straight forward install.

Here's a couple after pictures, the tires are 275/70R16.

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I would love to get some input on this...

On 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas you need to install a spacer at the steering rag joint. The spacer has holes drilled in it for the longer bolts, and some voids machined for the studs coming off the steering rack side. The voids do not go all the way through the spacer. I installed it with the wheels straight ahead, and it looked like this (but at a lower angle).

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I took it for a drive and the steering felt like it had a little more resistance to it. I brought it back to the shop and loosened the slip shaft to release any tension that might be stored. I also looked at the spacer from another angle and it looks like this.

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The studs are bottoming out in the machined voids and stressing the rag joint. So... I'm sure it costs more to machine a void, than to drill a hole. Does anyone know why they are constructed this way? Is this done on purpose? In stock form there is no pressure on the studs. I'm not complaining about the product, it just seems odd to me.
 
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