DIY: Front Strut Replacement

[Atlanta_man]

Time to get a new battery, on your schedule. Not in the next snowstorm.

I'm on my 5th I think, two were bad and replaced quickly - one under NAPA warranty, and the Toyota dealer one by something else since I was far from a dealer. The Toyota one did last a few days but I consider it a waste of time and money.

My 4Runner has lived in hot summers, mild winters.

 

[bunz559]

Am I missing something here? Don't you have to compress the spring some how? I don't really see any mention of compressing the spring.

 

[Morphyne]

search "no spring compressor method"

essentially if you loosen the LCA camber bolt, you get enough play to install new shocks and unsprung springs without spring compressors. I've actually done it twice without even loosening the LCA bolt.

 

[bunz559]

search "no spring compressor method"

essentially if you loosen the LCA camber bolt, you get enough play to install new shocks and unsprung springs without spring compressors. I've actually done it twice without even loosening the LCA bolt.

Interesting. I always thought that without compressing the spring, you could never get the top bolt to reach any threads. And if you could get 2 or 3 threads, there would not be anything for you to hold to keep the strut assembly from spinning. I'll be replacing my worn FJ struts soon with 5100s and ill attempt this method, it wouldn't hurt.

 

[Terminator03]

Am I missing something here? Don't you have to compress the spring some how? I don't really see any mention of compressing the spring.

The jack under the control arm compresses the spring as you jack the arm back into place. You only need to compress it enough to start the threads on the top stud.

 

[Terminator03]

search "no spring compressor method"

essentially if you loosen the LCA camber bolt, you get enough play to install new shocks and unsprung springs without spring compressors. I've actually done it twice without even loosening the LCA bolt.

Don’t you completely lose your alignment that way?

 

[jonb2]

Don’t you completely lose your alignment that way?

Nope. I've used the "no spring compressor" method a few times on my front struts. Just make sure to mark all the cam bolts before you loosen them. I needed to loosen the bolts just a little so I could push the LCA down. When everything was together and I went to tighten the bolts, 3 of the 4 had not moved in alignment and the other one moved just a little--easy to fix.

 

[Morphyne]

Don’t you completely lose your alignment that way?

No. Not if you mark your camber bolt with a sharpie. But I must admit I've never had to go that far. I can change my shocks and springs by using a long crow bar and just leaning on the LCA a bit to get them in

 

[Morphyne]

The jack under the control arm compresses the spring as you jack the arm back into place. You only need to compress it enough to start the threads on the top stud.

Yes. On e you get 3gerything in, you place a jack under the LCA ballpoint and you jack the whole thing up until you can thread the nuts.

 

[Terminator03]

Nope. I've used the "no spring compressor" method a few times on my front struts. Just make sure to mark all the cam bolts before you loosen them. I needed to loosen the bolts just a little so I could push the LCA down. When everything was together and I went to tighten the bolts, 3 of the 4 had not moved in alignment and the other one moved just a little--easy to fix.

No. Not if you mark your camber bolt with a sharpie. But I must admit I've never had to go that far. I can change my shocks and springs by using a long crow bar and just leaning on the LCA a bit to get them in

Wow, that actually sounds easier than unbolting at the balljoint. I wouldn’t have thought you’d get enough movement without unbolting those camber bolts completely. Definitely going to look into that method because I’m looking at options for my front suspension now that I have the rear fixed. It’s already above stock height with whatever coils it has (I think Tacoma), so I would only need an inch or so to make it perfect. I actually think the ride is pretty nice too with the current Bilstein yellow/blue shocks, so I’m thinking the 5100s might work well with my current springs, just not sure how the valving will play with my Icon 2.0 rears.

 

[bunz559]

The jack under the control arm compresses the spring as you jack the arm back into place. You only need to compress it enough to start the threads on the top stud.

Got ya. For what ever reason I just couldn't picture it. But I guess if you lift the lower control arm enough, it'll compress the spring enough to get it going.

 

[Trekburt]

Thanks for this post! Great writeup and detailed pics

 

[JjBlinks123]

Rusted bolts?

Im in the process of changing the shocks in the front. mostly going smooth just need to get a couple new bolts. BUT. my big issue is passenger side shock bolts. the one in the back. seems stripped and i cant get a good hold on it.. any ideas on getting that thing off?

 

[firebirdguy]

Im in the process of changing the shocks in the front. mostly going smooth just need to get a couple new bolts. BUT. my big issue is passenger side shock bolts. the one in the back. seems stripped and i cant get a good hold on it.. any ideas on getting that thing off?

which bolt in the back is stuck? the ones on the top are nuts & there is 3 of them to remove the shock & spring together. the big bottom bolt should come out with a little help punching it though after undoing the nut.

i used a box end wrench to break the top 3 nuts loose then use a ratchet wrench to undo them all the way, the back one is harder to get to but should be doable with a longer wrench.

 

[y=mx+b]

Im in the process of changing the shocks in the front. mostly going smooth just need to get a couple new bolts. BUT. my big issue is passenger side shock bolts. the one in the back. seems stripped and i cant get a good hold on it.. any ideas on getting that thing off?

A flex head ratcheting wrench is a lifesaver for that back nut on the upper mounts.

I was highly contemplating just holesawing through the inner fender so I could get an impact on that one lol

 

[Bluesky 07]

Im in the process of changing the shocks in the front. mostly going smooth just need to get a couple new bolts. BUT. my big issue is passenger side shock bolts. the one in the back. seems stripped and i cant get a good hold on it.. any ideas on getting that thing off?

From the venerable @J.A.'s outstanding writeup:

==
Remove the three 14mm upper strut tower nuts. I used an open ended wrench on a Socket Cap attached to a 14mm socket. By doing this you can make quick work of removing the rear nut which is impossible to use a ratchet on due to limited clearance, and also tough to use a wrench on as the turning radius is limited as well. You put the 14mm socket on the rear nut, then put the socket cap in the socket. Then using an open ended wrench becomes easier as the wrench is elevated above the center strut bolt but still has enough room below the wheel well to turn in a wide arc.
==

Harbor Freight also has socket caps, which I used last time I did my front shocks. Golden. If you end up needing a new bolt for that one, OEM versions are reasonably priced if you use one of the dealership online parts departments.

 

[Mr_Dobalina]

Your experience was a little bit different than mine. My shock replacement on all 4 wheels involved 2 full days of fighting rust welded nuts, snaping 2 breaker bars, lighting the top of the shock on fire trying to heat the top nut, breaking a nut splitter (2 actually, don't buy Craftsmen), then resorting to using a saws all to cut those top nuts off, lots of cussing, and late day beer drinking.

Was worth all the effort and the car felt completely different afterwards.

I also replaced all the sway bar bushings for a couple of bucks which eliminated a "Think" sound after hitting every bump.

 

[FyCkD FuNnY]

That was a perfect 10 Step Program for Replacing you front/rear shocks/struts... I had no problem, just took my time... Last work I did was all 4 brakes and rotors in July, a lot cooler now...
I wonder how many would believe, I actually just removed my XREAS System (the original) at 344k+ miles. Rears were a piece of cake of course, the fronts had a little more effort put in, but still not very time consuming...
I went with TOYOTA Shocks for the rear and BILSTEIN 4600 for the front...
I did go ahead and wash each rim that definitely added some time to the job... I did NOT have to remove the sway bar or anything extra...

My suggestions and or tips after doing said job... I didnt had a 17mm or 12mm wrech, so I borrowed from a mechanic friend of mine... Double Check your Tool List
Toyota still uses same size nut size 17mm, Bilstein uses 19mm, I didnt have 19mm wrench, so I went and just reused the old 17mm nuts from the front...
Wear eye protection and when it comes to gloves I like to layer, first layer pair of nitrile gloves top layer with some G-Tek gloves or similar...

(I did notice what appears to be water from the water pump, while looking up from underneath it... Right where the belt meets the groves, put a towel there, but didnt really catch anything, could be a very minuscule leak...
Quite possibly a original water pump)

 

[aa040371]

Finally got to the fronts after having done the rears.

Old thread, I realize, but I am undertaking this replacement in near future.

Question: I see on the list of parts needed the sway bar bushing bracket bolts. Any specific reason why? I wouldn't have thought they would be non-reusable, e.g. like a crush washer or nylon locking nut.

Also, what were the specs on the bolts you used: diameter and length? Wondering how to purchase ones with captive washer...none seem available online? And I can't seem to find a part number on ToyotaParts.com...sigh.

 

[aa040371]

Also, what were the specs on the bolts you used: diameter and length? Wondering how to purchase ones with captive washer...none seem available online? And I can't seem to find a part number on ToyotaParts.com...sigh.

I did mange to finally hunt this doen (I think)...flanged bolt head with captive washer. I am now pretty sure the part number (for my vehicle) is 91674-E1028:

91674-E1028 Genuine Toyota Bolt, FLANGE W/WASHE

I wish I could get official specs on this thing (diameter, length, thread pitch, grade) with part number, but manufacturers' are pretty cagey about this information, apparently...after all, it might end up eating into their usurious profits :yuck: