jakerunner
New member
Excellent job brother. I did the same thing a few weeks ago, didn't have the time or $$$ for Gobi. Much more satisfaction in DIY.
DIY Full Length Rack
- Thread starter HELOTESTXTRD
- Start date
How many feet of tubing did you get as raw material?
Well I finally did it. Built a full length bolt on rack for my T4R. I need to fab up a wind deflector but this S TX heat is slowing me down.
I used 16 gauge 1" tubing and 3/4 flat expanded metal.
I fabricated the brackets and did all the welding on this build.
I had fun working on this but next time I will have to wait for the cooler months.
Total cost is under $175
Here are some pics.
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HELOTESTXTRD
New member
I used 80 feet of tubing.
The expanded metal used is 3/4" flat, it is sold in 4x8 sheets so it's perfect.
The key to this DIY is to have the right tube bender. Luckily I borrowed a friends that worked well. I used a hydraulic press type that I found a Northern and that thing was awful.
I am also fortunate to have a family member who had some of the 1/8" plate I used.
The expanded metal used is 3/4" flat, it is sold in 4x8 sheets so it's perfect.
The key to this DIY is to have the right tube bender. Luckily I borrowed a friends that worked well. I used a hydraulic press type that I found a Northern and that thing was awful.
I am also fortunate to have a family member who had some of the 1/8" plate I used.
I have access to a fab shop. They have a really nice tube bender they use for sliders there. I will be the guinea pig! Can you stand on the rack?
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
Here is a more detailed write up on what I did.
Let me know if you have questions or something looks Off.
My rack is not perfect but I feel very good about the job I did and would or will do it again.
Why did I do it?
1. Cost. I feel like some of the available racks are too expensive. In total I’m in for about $250 versus the $1200 for BajaRack or $1500 for Gobi.
2. In addition to cost I wanted the rack exactly how i wanted it. As an example, Gobi Stealth is about 2’ deep, I made mine 3” deep.
3. Pride in doing the work myself. My rack may not have the same finish as the Gobi rack but I also know that I will not have any missing welds on my rack.
Materials List:
80 feet of 16 gauge 1” tubing
4x8 sheet of 3/4” (flat) expanded metal
1/8” plate - for the brackets
1/8" flat stock 48"x3"
Nuts/locking washers and bolts for securing the rack to the brackets
Tools needed:
Mig Welder
Tubing / pipe bender - I used a GreenLee 1800 Mechanical Bender
Small sledge hammer - for bending brackets
Vice - for use when bending the brackets
Drill - drill bits - metal bits
Grinder - with metal cutting discs & polishing disks
Summary of Steps
Step 1
Bend the tubing to get your 90 degree angles
Measure cut and weld your bottom section of tubing
Do the same for the top section
Step 2
Cut out your support tubing, this would be the section of tubing that sits between the bottom and top sections of the rack.
Notching
For this I initially starting using a tubing notcher I bought at Harbour Freight
I do not recommend this - it is extremely time consuming and expensive. Expensive because the metal hole saws can range in price from $10 to $30 each and you will need at least 3-4 of these
What I do recommend is to use a grinder with a metal cutting disc to make the notches in the tubing.
First take the grinder and make a cut directly in the end to about 1/2”. Then make a diagonal cut from either end to meet the center cut. I will add a pic later.
After the cuts are made use the cutting disc or a polishing disc to round out the notch. I was not able to make a smooth enough notch with the grinder to fit perfectly onto the tubing. I just filled in the gaps by welding, just lay several beads on top of each other until the gap is closed. Don’t try to just shoot wire in there, because it will look bad and you will not have a good weld.
Step 3
Dry fit the rack, I used electrical tape to hold the rack together while I checked the fit.
Step 4
Tack weld the bottom section of tubing and the risers (tubing) together
Be sure to check that the rack is square
Step 5
Install the expanded metal grating
Also cut and install the 48"x3" onto the section of the rack which will be the front
Step 6
Tack weld the top section and risers together
Step 7
Grind down your welds and use a wire brush or a wire disc on the grinder.
Step 8
Make the brackets for the rack itself, you will need 4. These will not require bending just a straight piece of 1/8” plate.
Step 9
Brackets to attach to the Runner
Cut the 1/8” plate to size
Mark the bend for the base, this is the part of the plate that will be sitting on the roof. I measured our 1 1/8”
At the 1 1/8” mark place into the vice and use the sledge to bend to the desired angle
Next mark the top bend - I believe I used 2 1/2” for the bend for the rear brackets and 2 1/4” for the front brackets. The reason I did this is because I wanted the front of my rack to be closer to the roof line.
You could do them the same if you desire but that’s what I did.
Install bracket in vice and hit it with the sledge
Once you have the first bracket made test it by setting it onto the 4 Runner to see if it looks right.
I went as far as to set the rack onto the Runner with 2x4’s on all four mounting points. Set the bracket in to check for fitment. If it’s off just hammer it out on the vice to get it close.
Also mark where the brackets will be mounted onto the rack. I used a soapstone to do this but you can use a sharpie as well.
Step 10
Weld your brackets onto the rack - these are the flat ones, not the ones with the bends that you mount to the Runner. You will need to cut the expanded metal with a grinder and cutting disc.
Step 11
Once all of the welding is done install the brackets onto the Runner
Step 12
Set the rack onto the Runner and see what it looks like. The most important part here is to ensure that your brackets are lined up.
Step 13
Drill the holes through the brackets to secure the bolts at a later time.
I drilled on top of the Runner, but I placed a piece of 1/2” wood underneath the brackets so that I didn’t drill through my roof.
Step 14
Install the bolts and check everything to ensure it looks good.
Step 15
Paint or powder coat or do whatever you want to make it look good.
I used Rust O Spray in bed liner, found at home depot.
I also made a wind fairing, which I will post pics of. I used another thread on here which was really helpful.
Used Lexan - 1” aluminum flat stock
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Let me know if you have questions or something looks Off.
My rack is not perfect but I feel very good about the job I did and would or will do it again.
Why did I do it?
1. Cost. I feel like some of the available racks are too expensive. In total I’m in for about $250 versus the $1200 for BajaRack or $1500 for Gobi.
2. In addition to cost I wanted the rack exactly how i wanted it. As an example, Gobi Stealth is about 2’ deep, I made mine 3” deep.
3. Pride in doing the work myself. My rack may not have the same finish as the Gobi rack but I also know that I will not have any missing welds on my rack.
Materials List:
80 feet of 16 gauge 1” tubing
4x8 sheet of 3/4” (flat) expanded metal
1/8” plate - for the brackets
1/8" flat stock 48"x3"
Nuts/locking washers and bolts for securing the rack to the brackets
Tools needed:
Mig Welder
Tubing / pipe bender - I used a GreenLee 1800 Mechanical Bender
Small sledge hammer - for bending brackets
Vice - for use when bending the brackets
Drill - drill bits - metal bits
Grinder - with metal cutting discs & polishing disks
Summary of Steps
Step 1
Bend the tubing to get your 90 degree angles
Measure cut and weld your bottom section of tubing
Do the same for the top section
Step 2
Cut out your support tubing, this would be the section of tubing that sits between the bottom and top sections of the rack.
Notching
For this I initially starting using a tubing notcher I bought at Harbour Freight
I do not recommend this - it is extremely time consuming and expensive. Expensive because the metal hole saws can range in price from $10 to $30 each and you will need at least 3-4 of these
What I do recommend is to use a grinder with a metal cutting disc to make the notches in the tubing.
First take the grinder and make a cut directly in the end to about 1/2”. Then make a diagonal cut from either end to meet the center cut. I will add a pic later.
After the cuts are made use the cutting disc or a polishing disc to round out the notch. I was not able to make a smooth enough notch with the grinder to fit perfectly onto the tubing. I just filled in the gaps by welding, just lay several beads on top of each other until the gap is closed. Don’t try to just shoot wire in there, because it will look bad and you will not have a good weld.
Step 3
Dry fit the rack, I used electrical tape to hold the rack together while I checked the fit.
Step 4
Tack weld the bottom section of tubing and the risers (tubing) together
Be sure to check that the rack is square
Step 5
Install the expanded metal grating
Also cut and install the 48"x3" onto the section of the rack which will be the front
Step 6
Tack weld the top section and risers together
Step 7
Grind down your welds and use a wire brush or a wire disc on the grinder.
Step 8
Make the brackets for the rack itself, you will need 4. These will not require bending just a straight piece of 1/8” plate.
Step 9
Brackets to attach to the Runner
Cut the 1/8” plate to size
Mark the bend for the base, this is the part of the plate that will be sitting on the roof. I measured our 1 1/8”
At the 1 1/8” mark place into the vice and use the sledge to bend to the desired angle
Next mark the top bend - I believe I used 2 1/2” for the bend for the rear brackets and 2 1/4” for the front brackets. The reason I did this is because I wanted the front of my rack to be closer to the roof line.
You could do them the same if you desire but that’s what I did.
Install bracket in vice and hit it with the sledge
Once you have the first bracket made test it by setting it onto the 4 Runner to see if it looks right.
I went as far as to set the rack onto the Runner with 2x4’s on all four mounting points. Set the bracket in to check for fitment. If it’s off just hammer it out on the vice to get it close.
Also mark where the brackets will be mounted onto the rack. I used a soapstone to do this but you can use a sharpie as well.
Step 10
Weld your brackets onto the rack - these are the flat ones, not the ones with the bends that you mount to the Runner. You will need to cut the expanded metal with a grinder and cutting disc.
Step 11
Once all of the welding is done install the brackets onto the Runner
Step 12
Set the rack onto the Runner and see what it looks like. The most important part here is to ensure that your brackets are lined up.
Step 13
Drill the holes through the brackets to secure the bolts at a later time.
I drilled on top of the Runner, but I placed a piece of 1/2” wood underneath the brackets so that I didn’t drill through my roof.
Step 14
Install the bolts and check everything to ensure it looks good.
Step 15
Paint or powder coat or do whatever you want to make it look good.
I used Rust O Spray in bed liner, found at home depot.
I also made a wind fairing, which I will post pics of. I used another thread on here which was really helpful.
Used Lexan - 1” aluminum flat stock
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Last edited:
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
Here is a pic of the wind fairing I built using Lexan. I followed another thread for directions.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
I haven't stood on it after installation. But I did stand on it prior to.
I'll stand on it soon and report back.
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HELOTESTXTRD
New member
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
Thanks. I used the spray on truck bed liner, bought it at Home Depot & Wal-Mart. I wanted to spray myself so I can fix scratches and scuffs.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
You gonna be in the Los Angeles area any time soon? Picking up the materials this week, heh. Thanks for all the information though. Getting mat this week and hoping to have all the pipe bent and cut to size by Saturday so I can try and weld it all together this weekend. Thanks for having this thread knowing that its not that hard. Even if it doesn't look fantastic, I'm sure ill be stoked once it's done.
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
You will have the satisfaction of doing it how you want it. I started another one this weekend for a buddy I met on this forum. Let me know if you have any questions. I would say the most challenging part is notching the tubing. Using a grinder is the best method, unless you have access to an end mill.
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Tisoy281
New member
Sweet!! You already started on mine?! LMAO, JK! I'd definitely be interested. I'm not too far from you, only about 30 minutes.
HELOTESTXTRD
New member
I was going to wait to build another but I can't sit still. Plus I wanted to see how quickly I can fab one up. So far it looks like a two weekend project. I plan on doing more and building them custom. Basically how the customer wants it I'll do it. Not taking people's money until the work is done. And I won't take three or four months to do it either.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
