DIY MOD: Rear window roll up and down via aftermarket remote start/alarm system

gshadow325

New member
DISCLAIMER: You mess up your car, dont blame me, its that simple. I know what i am doing, I dont know what you are doing.

So here goes. Many of you guys have or want or considered a aftermarket system that will start and protect your vehicle. There's the BUT, i dont want to loose my window feature. The place that did your system wanted to charge you a gazillion dollars to "hook up" the window feature. Well look no further and wait no more. You have the "info" to give to your favorite shop to have a system installed!!!

Recipe for window roll up and down via aftermarket system:

2 - one amp diodes
2 - relays maybe a third relay. i will tell you later why.
You can use mini relays from Directed electronics 8616, like the one pictured below.


You will need to pop out the rear window switch. take out that one bolt that holds the climate control in. the screw is hidden in the back when you open the pocket undet the climate control.

push the switch out from the back to get to the wires.

On my 2003 v8 the wires you need are
1: black/yellow control wire
2: black/blue stripe window down
3: yellow/red stripe window up

So you get the idea what the switch does. it takes the black/yellow wire and connects it to the black/blue wire and makes it go up with a momentary connection. when you take that same black/yellow wire and connect it to the yellow/red wire momentarily it will go up.

In order for your car to roll the window up or down, the car needs to see ignition wire power up (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) for a moment. this is where you might need a third relay if your installer didnt energize the second ignition line during remote start up.

Here's where you get to wire up everything.

If you are using the dei relays 8616 then use this diagram

take two relays:

(30)both yellows from relay to black/yellow on the switch
(87a)orange from relay no connection
(86)both red from relays to 12v constant source
(87)brown #1 from relay to black/blue on switch for window down
(87)brown #2 from relay to yellow/red for window up
(85)black #1 from relay to your aftermarket system's trunk pop negative output
(85)black #2 from relay to your aftermarket systems aux 1 negative out put

fyi: numbers in (xx) correspond to a regular full size relay


wires need to be soldered like this


with your trunk pop negative wire you need to also have that same wire energize the ignition relay to power up blue/yellow for a split second.

this is where you need the two 1 amp diodes:
you will have two wires triggering the ignition relay. the diodes will prevent the switch from getting both a up and down signal at the same time.

when you do a trunk pop, that sends a negative signal to the switch and at the same time energizes the ignition wire thus turning on the retained accessory power on the truck.



So now i have my drone mobile set up to do the following
lock = arm/lock
unlock = disarm/unlock
trunk pop = window roll down
aux 1 or #1 on the drone app = window roll up
aux 2 or #2 on the drone app = train horn
siren = horn honk/train horns
engine start/stop = remote starter




i hope this clarifies what needs to be done. i saw someone write up to go all the way into the tailgate and do a bunch of stuff. i reverse engineered what the switch does. this way for me is much simpler. if your favorite installer/installation facility downt know what i am showing to do. then they should not be touching your truck. If you know what the hell i am doing, kuddos to you and betcha didnt think of this.

it sounds like a complicated mod but if you follow my directions and apply it to your application. its easy. just ask the question, i probably can help you get it done!

Enjoy! now to add this to my build thread! repost LoL
 
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so with the compustar, how long do we set the timer mode for the button? i think stock setting is 2.0 seconds pulse. now with the compustar programer, you can adjust how long to make the aux buttons stay at constant, i have a setting at 5.0 seconds constant , is this going to be a problem? also is there a way to wire it so that when the alarm is in arm mode, it sends ground when arm, i want to have it rolled up like the way the dei 530t do.
 
so with the compustar, how long do we set the timer mode for the button? i think stock setting is 2.0 seconds pulse. now with the compustar programer, you can adjust how long to make the aux buttons stay at constant, i have a setting at 5.0 seconds constant , is this going to be a problem? also is there a way to wire it so that when the alarm is in arm mode, it sends ground when arm, i want to have it rolled up like the way the dei 530t do.

what controller you using?
cm6000?

you need to do a few things in programming.
change option 4-1 to 4(program)
change option 4-3 to 2(arm)
change aux 1 time to what ever time you think you need to make the window roll up.

wiring
green wire from the POC harness (thats for ignition 2) needs to be tied into what ever wire you choose to use for AUX1(default is violet wire)

concept: igition 2 needs to be energized weather the door is open or closed for the duration that the window will be running.


this is why compustar rocks and DEI can lick my nuts! so flexible in mods
 
I got the older one, cm3000, i have acess to a programer tho. Few questions to, do the truck have to be on to make the tailgate window up or down?
 
I got the older one, cm3000, i have acess to a programer tho. Few questions to, do the truck have to be on to make the tailgate window up or down?

cm3000 is old and antiquated system.thats 3 generations old. very limited in what it can do.

but

the way to make that work when you arm it would be to get a pulse timer
wire up a relay to turn on the igition #2 (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) wire for the duration the time is on. unless you already did a relay for ignition 2
 
ill just do some rewiring with the channel expander i have installed years ago, and set the buttons the way i want.
 
In order for your car to roll the window up or down, the car needs to see ignition wire power up (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) for a moment. this is where you might need a third relay if your installer didnt energize the second ignition line during remote start up.

with your trunk pop negative wire you need to also have that same wire energize the ignition relay to power up blue/yellow for a split second.

this is where you need the two 1 amp diodes:
you will have two wires triggering the ignition relay. the diodes will prevent the switch from getting both a up and down signal at the same time.

when you do a trunk pop, that sends a negative signal to the switch and at the same time energizes the ignition wire thus turning on the retained accessory power on the truck.

Firstly, good writeup. Do you mind clearing some things up on this please? I've got the wiring to the switch worked out fine (operates as expected when the ignition is on), but I'm having trouble with the secondary ignition. My remote start system's satellite relay pack has been wired in to the secondary ignition (blue/yellow 12ga). I wired a line from each 85 pin on the relays with the diode at the end (silver stripe facing the ignition) into the satellite pack line that's connected to the ignition (also 12ga). What did I miss? Thanks.
 
finally had the chance to do this on my old alarm, used a pulse timer relay(528t) too and 2 diodes to isolate each other, set the relay at 5 seconds. tested and it works.
 
No offence OP but those are some of the worst solder joints I have ever seen.

You would have been better off crimping those connections.

That said... nice mod.
 
DISCLAIMER: You mess up your car, dont blame me, its that simple. I know what i am doing, I dont know what you are doing.

So here goes. Many of you guys have or want or considered a aftermarket system that will start and protect your vehicle. There's the BUT, i dont want to loose my window feature. The place that did your system wanted to charge you a gazillion dollars to "hook up" the window feature. Well look no further and wait no more. You have the "info" to give to your favorite shop to have a system installed!!!

Recipe for window roll up and down via aftermarket system:

2 - one amp diodes
2 - relays maybe a third relay. i will tell you later why.
You can use mini relays from Directed electronics 8616, like the one pictured below.


You will need to pop out the rear window switch. take out that one bolt that holds the climate control in. the screw is hidden in the back when you open the pocket undet the climate control.

push the switch out from the back to get to the wires.

On my 2003 v8 the wires you need are
1: black/yellow control wire
2: black/blue stripe window down
3: yellow/red stripe window up

So you get the idea what the switch does. it takes the black/yellow wire and connects it to the black/blue wire and makes it go up with a momentary connection. when you take that same black/yellow wire and connect it to the yellow/red wire momentarily it will go up.

In order for your car to roll the window up or down, the car needs to see ignition wire power up (blue/yellow @ ignition switch) for a moment. this is where you might need a third relay if your installer didnt energize the second ignition line during remote start up.

Here's where you get to wire up everything.

If you are using the dei relays 8616 then use this diagram

take two relays:

(30)both yellows from relay to black/yellow on the switch
(87a)orange from relay no connection
(86)both red from relays to 12v constant source
(87)brown #1 from relay to black/blue on switch for window down
(87)brown #2 from relay to yellow/red for window up
(85)black #1 from relay to your aftermarket system's trunk pop negative output
(85)black #2 from relay to your aftermarket systems aux 1 negative out put

fyi: numbers in (xx) correspond to a regular full size relay


wires need to be soldered like this


with your trunk pop negative wire you need to also have that same wire energize the ignition relay to power up blue/yellow for a split second.

this is where you need the two 1 amp diodes:
you will have two wires triggering the ignition relay. the diodes will prevent the switch from getting both a up and down signal at the same time.

when you do a trunk pop, that sends a negative signal to the switch and at the same time energizes the ignition wire thus turning on the retained accessory power on the truck.



So now i have my drone mobile set up to do the following
lock = arm/lock
unlock = disarm/unlock
trunk pop = window roll down
aux 1 or #1 on the drone app = window roll up
aux 2 or #2 on the drone app = train horn
siren = horn honk/train horns
engine start/stop = remote starter



Hi Just wondering if you have those photos still available, your photobucket links no longer seem to work. Im trying to do this with my compustar system with my 03 V8 Limited as well.
 
the wiring color is there, you just need to understand how the switch works, and it just needs to be triggered by your aftermarket system.

so with the computstar system, you can wire the trunk output for making the tailgate window go down, and use an aux output to make it go back up if you want that. also it just need to be able to trigger the ignition to get power to the switch.
 

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