dkyleb's Overland Build Thread

[dkyleb]

dkyleb's Overland Build and Picture Dump


2004 SR5 V8 4x4

Day of purchase:

April 2016:

May 2016:

Aug 2016:

March 2017:

Front End
-Billstien 5100s
-OME 885s
-1/4" Top Plate Spacers
-eBay UCA's
-EMF Sealed & Adjustable Uniballs
-Moog LCA Bolts/Cams
-Moog LCA Bushings
-Moog Lower Ball Joints
-Toytec Swaybar Drop
-Toytec Diff Drop
-Reman'd Steering Rack
-Total Chaos Spindle Gussets
-Total Chaos Cam Tab Gussets

Drivetrain
-Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 in transfer case, front and rear differential
-New OEM T-case output seals

Rear End
-Billstien 5100s
-FJ Coils + Spacers
-Toytec Extended Brake Lines
-New 5th Gen Calipers
-New 4th Gen Rotors
-Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Links

Wheels + Tires
-BFG A/T KO2 275/70/17
-Duracrap 315/70/17 for now
-5th Gen Trail Edition Wheels
-All-Pro 1.5" Wheel Spacers w/ ET nuts

Armour
-Custom Front Bumper
-Trail Gear 68" Welded Sliders
-Random FJ Skid Plates

Electronics
-Group 31 AGM Battery
-Garmin 2895 GPS
-Mini 0805 Dashcam
-42" Light Bar + Custom Brackets
-20" Light Bar w/ Amber Lens

Misc
-1" Toytec Body Lift
-Custom Electrical Conduit Roof Rack
-Runva 11XP-S Winch (11,000lb single-line pull, synthetic line)
-Custom Built Folding Sleeping Platform / Drawers
-Replaced Rear Lock/Latch Actuator
-Resealed Coolant Manifold


Here is a bunch of pictures from purchase to Febuary 2016:

Billstein 5100's, FJ Coils + 2.5" Spacer

Billstein 5100s @ 2.5 + FJ Coils

Stupid seized LCA Bolts during alignment, replaced with Moog bushings and bolts

Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Links

 

[dkyleb]

5th Gen Rear Brakes

New T-Case Output Seals

Finally got the rear hatch open for the first time since purchase. The latch was completely rusted shut, here is the carnage that took place getting it opened...

Toytec Extended Rear Brake Lines

 

[dkyleb]

Landed the group 31 AGM battery in today. 80 pounds! Cleaning up the corrosion from the previous garbage battery that was in there before.

Had to extend the ground to body wire with some spare 4ga I had laying around. Does anyone know of any other grounds I can upgrade? The only other ground seems to go from the starter to the battery, and I'm not pulling my intake manifold just to upgrade that!

Currently repainting the clamp and fabbing up longer J hooks. Hopefully get finished up tomorrow.

 

[4thgenblake]

Lots of work! Replacing much need parts though so that's always good. At least now you can sleep better.

 

[dkyleb]

Lots of work! Replacing much need parts though so that's always good. At least now you can sleep better.

Yup! This poor thing needed a bit of work, but I did manage to get a good deal on it. Even with all my current mods, I'm still under its current value.

I plan to be doing some pretty lengthy and remote expeditions with this rig, so getting all the not so fun stuff out of the way first is the way to go. I haven't even mounted my big boy tires on it yet! Maybe I'll throw them on next week for a bit of inspiration.

 

[4thgenblake]

Yup! This poor thing needed a bit of work, but I did manage to get a good deal on it. Even with all my current mods, I'm still under its current value.

I plan to be doing some pretty lengthy and remote expeditions with this rig, so getting all the not so fun stuff out of the way first is the way to go. I haven't even mounted my big boy tires on it yet! Maybe I'll throw them on next week for a bit of inspiration.

Good way to look at it. These things can run forever theoretically speaking. So I'm really surprised with the condition you found yours in, hood latch? That's unheard of, pain in the ass but workin all the kinks out!

Tires will be fun though [emoji57] that'll make it all seem worth it for sure

 

[dkyleb]

Good way to look at it. These things can run forever theoretically speaking. So I'm really surprised with the condition you found yours in, hood latch? That's unheard of, pain in the ass but workin all the kinks out!

Tires will be fun though [emoji57] that'll make it all seem worth it for sure

The vehicle spent most of its life in Quebec, and some in Alberta. I'm assuming most of the rust was acquired in Quebec, we don't use as much salt here in Alberta.

The rear hatch mechanism had seized to the latch and I had to completely tear apart the mechanism to get enough penetrator juice to loosen it up. I also had to stick a 24" pry bar between the hatch and body to get it open. I pryed on it HARD before it finally made a very satisfying creek and opened.

I noticed quite a bit of buildup in the bottom of the hatch, which I believe contributed to the rusting. I plan on sealing it up as best as possible, and adding rinsing the hatch bottom to my maintainence list.

 

[dkyleb]

Made some progress today. Finished up installing my group 31 AGM battery, and started installing the stereo.

I used two 10" J hooks that I found in an auto parts store. I shortened one of then by a couple inches. I also removed the clamp piece, soaked it in baking soda and water to remove the battery grime, then hit it with a black paint to freshen it up.

Im not entirely happy with how it's in there, simply because of the backwards connections. Ideally, I would spin the battery around and lengthen the wires. Where it sits now, the negative posts are extremely close to the hood. The positive posts are insulated and not too close. Ground is still disconnected for stereo install.

 

[dkyleb]

Decided to jam some speakers in the doors.

-Kenwood 3.5" 40w
-Alpine 3-way 6x9s

I will be eliminating the rear channel, and the 3.5s will be my front channel, while the 6x9s will be my rear channel. I'm all about that front stage, and will rarely have passengers to worry about.

Managed to get these Kenwood 3.5s in the stock tweeter location. I modified the bracket by removing the welded nut, and shimming it with a couple washers.

I also had to make some modifications to the door panel for the 6x9s to properly fit.

Since I'll be running these speakers in a different configuration than stock, I had to run my own wiring. I used the stock routing, which was actually pretty easy to do.

Hopefully I can find time today to finish the other door, and get the head unit in. I'm really looking forward to hearing this.

 

[dkyleb]

Made some big progress in the past week. Finished up the stereo, it sounds pretty good. Nothing too crazy, but much better than stock.

Moving on, I started by washing the engine bay after having a pretty big coolant leak, and some forum members pointing out how dirty it was!

Next up, the front end. I decided to get a whole bunch of things done in one fell swoop:

- eBay UCAs
- Front Disconnects
- Rear LCA bolts
- All-Pro 1.25" Spacers
- 275/70/17 KO2's on 2015 Trail Edition wheels

Started off with the driver's side. After yanking my 80lb battery out, I immediately ran into issues when the long pivot bolt had seized into the forward UCA bushing. I tried soaking it, heating it, hitting it, spinning it with an impact, etc. Finally, I called Toyota to make sure they had one in stock, then went and picked it up for $22. Not bad...

Figured out a way to keep it shifted over to the side, allowing me access to get a grinder in. Made quick work of it and it was out.

Finished up installing everything on the driver side, then moved onto the passenger. Had zero issues getting this UCA out, and the new one back in. Armed with the experience from the other side and maybe just some good luck, I had the passenger side done in less than half of the drivers side.

After finishing up that battle, I moved onto a more simple task... Swapping out the rear LCA bolts. I had previously been using Moog greaseable bolts, but was having some issues with them clunking and shifting after only a few miles. They wouldn't stay tight, either. Even with the supplied nylock nut.

After removing them, I noticed they had already began to round out.

Moog bushings still looked good, though.

I used this handy trick to help me get the old bolt out, and the new one in. This 1" ratchet strap has been mighty useful in my garage.

I applied tons of anti seize to this bolt, and plan to reapply as part of a maintenance program.

Moving to the back, I installed my All-Pro 1.25" spacers.

Cleaned up the garage as fast as possible, quickly went over everything to make sure it was right, threw my wheels on and lowered it down. Didn't hear any weird sounds... Went for a drive around the block. Some rubbing, but not a sound or clunk from the suspension! SWEET!

Drove 'er down to buddy's shop for an alignment. Should get it back tomorrow and start trimming!

 

[blackoutt]

I think you're right on those Moog LCA bolts, I'm getting some sounds from my LCA rear bolts occasionally as well. Now I'm just debating going OEM bolts or SPC replacements? Both are non-greasable. Also to replace the front bolts or leave with the Moog greasable?

 

[dkyleb]

I think you're right on those Moog LCA bolts, I'm getting some sounds from my LCA rear bolts occasionally as well. Now I'm just debating going OEM bolts or SPC replacements? Both are non-greasable. Also to replace the front bolts or leave with the Moog greasable?

I'm not sure if they're stretching, or what? Guys on the Tacoma forums have had issues with the rear ones as well.

I can't speak for the SPC ones, but the OEM ones are of superior quality.

 

[blackoutt]

After looking at the two designs I went with OEM. It looks like some Tacoma guys are having issues with the moog bushings outer sleeve spinning inside the control arm. I'll try just the bolts first.


Edit:
With just the new OEM rear LCA bolts my popping/clunking is gone and steering wheel feel is much tighter. Lesson learned by both of us on this one, OEM is best in this case! Thanks for the help in diagnosing my issue.

Edit again it came back. Cause was found to be loose LCA bushings, no press fit into the arms. Moog bushings in OEM arms front location both sides.

 

[dkyleb]

After looking at the two designs I went with OEM. It looks like some Tacoma guys are having issues with the moog bushings outer sleeve spinning inside the control arm. I'll try just the bolts first.


Edit:
With just the new OEM rear LCA bolts my popping/clunking is gone and steering wheel feel is much tighter. Lesson learned by both of us on this one, OEM is best in this case! Thanks for the help in diagnosing my issue.

How's things holding up? My clunking is back, but significantly less this time. I'm thinking it may be an issue with the Moog bushings... Ugh.

 

[blackoutt]

A much less harsh clunk at times but difficult to repeat with any specific maneuver. Steering wheel still feels much more solid going over potholes. It's liveable right now but I will be getting the front location OEM LCA bolts as well as OEM bushings and redoing that job when I get the time. I'm too cheap to buy new arms and my labor is free!

 

[hstexan]

Did you just swap out the calipers in the rear or also the rotors? I thought the measurements on the rotors for the center bore were different between 4th and 5th gen for the rear?

 

[dkyleb]

Did you just swap out the calipers in the rear or also the rotors? I thought the measurements on the rotors for the center bore were different between 4th and 5th gen for the rear?

It is different. I used new 4th gen rotors. They're working great so far!

 

[dkyleb]

Okay, so it's been a while since my last update. Been very busy with things. Here's most of what I've done in the past couple months:

I decided to change out my spark plugs. I discovered that they had been done at some point, but I had no idea when. I went with Denso Iridium TT's.

So, after getting an alignment, I was still having some rubbing on my body mount and fenders. Body mount chop was in order.

The rubbing was pretty bad, so I decided to start cutting. I found this behind the fender liner, drew a line and busted out the sawzall. I then pounded back the pinch weld as much as I could.

I also needed to trim a bit off my exterior fender. I measured 1.5" at the bottom of my fender, and sloped that up to 0 at about 6" up. I then modified my original mudflap to act as a temporary cover until I find a better solution.

To be continued...

 

[dkyleb]

I decided it would be a good idea to pack up everything I own and move half way across the country. I estimated I was about hauling 4000lbs between the trailer and what I managed to pack into the 4Runner.

I scored some LED lights from eBay, what a huge difference.

I also grabbed some 3000k XenonDepot HIDs for my fogs, and painted my lower grill.

 

[dkyleb]

Snapped some nice pictures out by Comox Lake: