"Do I need an Auto tech... or a Priest?"

Jeremy556 said:
Go to ebay and search for "techstream." It will come up with a bunch of people selling a cable with a USB connector one end and an OBD2 connector on the other. They are generally about $30 or so. It will come with a pirated copy of the Techstream software. You'll want a Windows XP laptop to install it on (64 bit drivers are problematic).

With that combination, you'll have access to everything that a Toyota dealer tech does, except for ECU flashing, and sometimes slow or momentarily interrupted data streams when viewing/recording real time data.

You can get data from every module, reprogram optional features, reprogram TPMS, clear stored codes, etc. It is many times more functional than any generic OBD2 tool, even the real expensive ones. The next step up in functionality from this is to purchase a Mongoose cable for $500, which will allow you to do ECU flashing.
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Hi Jeremy,

WOW, aren't you resourceful! I may still take you up on your suggestion at some point. When I was looking at the "Techstream" OBD Tool, I realized that I would need to swap-out my Laptop or operating system to use this; I'm on Win7 Pro (64 bit). I've already cancelled my Date with Toyota and ordered an OBDII from Amazon... $88.00, totally money back guaranteed (if I don't like it), and will be here Sun Nov 23! Thanks for chiming in and Rgds!
 
rigtec said:
Hi Jeremy,

WOW, aren't you resourceful! I may still take you up on your suggestion at some point. When I was looking at the "Techstream" OBD Tool, I realized that I would need to swap-out my Laptop or operating system to use this; I'm on Win7 Pro (64 bit). I've already cancelled my Date with Toyota and ordered an OBDII from Amazon... $88.00, totally money back guaranteed (if I don't like it), and will be here Sun Nov 23! Thanks for chiming in and Rgds!
Click to expand...
If you have Win7 Pro, you can use Windows XP Mode, which runs a Windows XP virtual machine on your Win7 machine.
Install and use Windows XP Mode in Windows 7

I do the same thing, but with VMWare Workstation, since I already have and use it for other reasons.
 
This may sound simple, and I'm sure you have already checked all of your fuses? I've seen a blown fuse cause all sorts of trouble lights in my Taco.
 
Jeremy556 said:
If you have Win7 Pro, you can use Windows XP Mode, which runs a Windows XP virtual machine on your Win7 machine.
Install and use Windows XP Mode in Windows 7

I do the same thing, but with VMWare Workstation, since I already have and use it for other reasons.
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Oh okay, so it will be compatible... good to know! After I find out what this new rare Emergency OBD tool can and cannot do (knowing myself as I do), I will likely still p/u the 'Techstream' tool just to be able to cover whatever I need to! Thanks for everyone's help with this issue...

"I'll be sure to let you all know just what I find out", Rgds

rigtec, :cheers:
 
I had this problem on my 4th gen. My dash looked looked like xmas lights. My VSC and ABS would not work as well. My research here seemed to be a common problem. Although, I went to 3 dealerships to figure it out.

It tuned out to be a simple burned out brake light switch. Our theory was that something happened when my aftermarket stereo with stolen, the thieves shorted switch. I had the brake bypassed so we could watch video without the parking brake on.

I'm sorry I don't have anymore info.
 
Hmm, this is an interesting one; on the top of my head it sounds like a network failure/communication issue for it to set THAT many warning lamps. (by the way that power steering warning lamp is a little interesting as that usually is present on electric steering equipped vehicles, but I would assume its probably mainly for the steering angle sensor and related components.)

I would double check all your powers and grounds relating to your upgraded alternator, as well as have the batteries tested just in case. IF You happen to have an oscilloscope it might not hurt to double check the AC ripple on the alternator for giggles while you're waiting for the TIS Techstream to get to your door step. Is it possible that you used a "clean" (meaning ciruits designed for sensors/data lines that have low tolerance for "noise") ground and/or power when doing your upgrade?

I have a feeling you're going to get a huge list of DTCs when you get the Techstream working, so we'll need to take our time to parse through each one. Most of them will probably be along the lines of "No Communication" or "Voltage Too High/Too Low" and such, the trick will be trying to parsing through the red herrings and trying to get a good direction in which start diagnostics.

~
Post Note-
I'm a Toyota tech and I still find myself asking questions here and there on the forum because sometimes its easier to brainstorm than run around in circles.
 
NoDak said:
"from what I have heard, the new v9 of techstream works on 64bit and has drivers for 64bit..."
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Hi NoDak,

I like the tools that you've shown in this post and your previous. Did the kit come w/ everything that you needed or did you have to buy a bunch of extras e.g., disc set, special cables, license key (or it won't work) ...etc to get it to work? Looks like some of these kits could get expensive; I guess depending of what you plan to use it for. Mine would be for very occasional "personal" use; don't want to spend too much to have it just sitting in it's case for years at a time, waiting for trouble lol. Thanks for posting that!

rigtec
 
Hi [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION],

I didn't get the Techstream obd tool because at the time that I was checking it out, it said that I would need a different computer for it to work, so I ordered another OBDII tool that is compatible (and will check ABS). All I'm hoping to do 'before things get too crazy' is check the trouble codes, clear them and see if they come right back. If they do then I'll know I need to approach this differently, but for now I'm just testing what I can. My truck acts really funny whenever I leave it sitting for days at a time... I've even had my share of Alarm System issues; it sometimes gets triggered after I'm already in the truck! I'll probably hit you up with some questions next week once I start troubleshooting, Thanks for stopping by! Rgds
 
Hopefully it will communicate with the other modules then. The Instrument Cluster is treated as its own module these days and typically will set DTCs separate from the ECM. Its not uncommon to see upwards of a dozen or so modules on these new vehicles.
 
well when I bought my cable, it came with a mini cd, that was the hardest part, getting the files off the cd to the computer to install. it had a s/n on the cd to install techstream for unlimited use.

also be super anal about the install, those cd's come with a boat load of virus/malware. scrub the crap out of it since most of these come from china/etc.

but that was an old version so I cant say how the v9 works or how it installs now compared to v8.

forgot to add, the whole works came out to about $25-30 usd shipped. since I was adamant about buying from a usa business, I had recourse if it never shipped or whatever. if you buy from amazon/ebay expect the ship time to take forever since they come by slow boat from china :) nice pun there literally.

attached is pic of the cable.

.
 

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BlackWorksInc said:
Hopefully it will communicate with the other modules then. The Instrument Cluster is treated as its own module these days and typically will set DTCs separate from the ECM. Its not uncommon to see upwards of a dozen or so modules on these new vehicles.
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Yes I'm aware that there are quite a few 'Body Control Modules'; my Toyota electrical systems library shows their wiring, termination points, fuses...etc. Is there a way to test/erase active faults from the module assigned to the 'Instrument Cluster', I didn't realize that this was separate? I'm trying to avoid presenting this electrical issue to the dealership because they'll shoot me down coming in their 'customer's entrance' door with my Auxiliary electrical components; they've already commented on it when I first started having trouble w/Entune (implying that, that was the cause of my cell phone's connectivity issues)... and that's when I was still receiving free oil changes.
 
NoDak said:
also be super anal about the install, those cd's come with a boat load of virus/malware. scrub the crap out of it since most of these come from china/etc.
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Another reason for the VM install. The Chinese malware can do its worst to my never network connected VM that only exists to run techstream.
 
I suppose you could disconnect the battery for about half an hour or so and then reconnect it, that should force a hard reset by draining the capacitors that keep alive the temporary memory? If you go that route I would recommend letting the vehicle idle for about 5-10 minutes after you reconnect it with no load to let the vehicle relearn its idle and such.
 
I'm no fan of dealership service dept.

However, there is no doubt in my military mind that I would start out there under your circumstance.

You guys could be making a mountain out of a mole hill lol.
 
Jivewalker said:
What was the problem?
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Hi Jivewalker,

Nothing has been concluded as of yet. On Tues 11/25 I took the truck to a different Toyota dealership near where I live; some bad blood has developed between myself and the D/S where I bought my 4R. Now I've done quite a bit of electrical mods on the truck since I got it e.g., Aux fogs, high power sub-woofer system, H.O. Aftermarket alternator, "Big three" (increased capacity load carrying cables) ...etc. So I know that I've voided my warranty on the electrical components as far as Toyota's concerned; I knew that when I modified the "Party mode" system and stock HU.

That said... When I arrived at the D/S the service consultant greeted me. He then explained that there would be a $125.00 diagnostic fee to evaluate the problem. He went on to explain that if what they find is covered by the warranty, the diagnostic fee would be waved; knowing that I would likely be shot down for warranty violations, I agreed. I asked to speak w/ the tech before he got started to fill him in on what the truck has been doing; wouldn't want him to jump to any false conclusions based on how the truck will or will not behave today.

When I walked over to the mechanic he started ranting about the 'Add-ones', so I just stood there until he was finished. Then I asked him: "What seems to be the problem?" He said... " All this stuff you've got on here, THAT'S THE PROBLEM!" I said, "You haven't even started the truck yet; much less looked at any DTC data". Then he concluded... "you've got to take all of this sh#t off of here first and put it back stock before you can even try to fix it!" I tell you folks... I was so shocked/disillusioned at that point I had to walk away from him :bat:

I went outside the building to get some cold air, I mean this guy is a true discredit to auto-techs everywhere! When I went back inside the service consultant approached me. He said, you know you violated the warranty when you put on those aftermarket lights and alternator? I said "I know!" But I'm not going to pay you a $125 dollar diagnostic fee because your tech didn't diagnose anything! What he gave me was his 'predetermined' opinion, one that he had before he came in to work today which has nothing to do with me! After a brief stare-down, some brow-flexing, and a slight pectoral muscle twitching match, an undeniable sense of ..."this is silly, huh" filled the room and he said: "Okay... I won't charge you for that!" and so we just started laughing!

So there was n/c for this X-action; but I did have the tires rotated so I think I paid $30 bucks or something like that. Before I left he gave me the name of a company by the name of "Auto Tech On Wheels" (ATOW). He said that their specialty is ECU reflash/programming: "These guys come in when our guys (or any dealership; not just Toyota) has trouble with a vehicle system... they're that good!" Here's a link to their site: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjkuxfBqd7A We're in the process of setting something up so he can take a look at my truck; I only spoke to him earlier this week so it'll happen soon I hope! I'll be sure to post what I find out as soon as something happens! Until then... Happy Holidays team and Best to you!

rigtec, cheers
 
Yeah, a lot of guys are quick to condemn aftermarket components as the cause (I am guilty of it as well because I see a lot of aftermarket stuff done wrong.) The problem is that most people just stop at the "Its the aftermarket junk, take it off THEN we can fix it" without actually testing anything like this guy did. Unfortunately it does not help that many manufacturer's these days train their technicians to basically live by that line no matter what.

The reality is that he should have noted his imediate suspicion (which isn't unfounded, nor unreasonable) and done some testing to determine IF the aftermarket components are in the way and/or could be the cause of the issue. Its much more valuable to everyone involved if you tell a customer, "I see you have some aftermarket stuff installed, I did some testing and have determined that one or more components may be the cause and/or contributing to the issue; I'd like to return the vehicle to stock before we waste any more time." Which is what I normally do with alarm systems because they usually crap out and such, but I know some people who are like, "whelp it has a lift kit, can't work on it until it's stock!" Its an unfortunate mindset of dealerships and dealership training, a lot of these guys think they know everything about cars; but really they just choose to only work on one brand of stock vehicles because its too much effort to really learn how much of the automotive world works (not saying its an entirely bad thing, I myself am still learning much in my quest to understand vehicles and dynamics beyond just Toyota and stock applications.)

Personally I would have jumped all over the opportunity to question the customer on their vehicle, that way I can get an idea of what mods are in the vehicle and better yet HOW they were installed. If the guy did them himself, maybe he will even admit where he shortcutted and/or ran into issues; if not he can at least give me an idea if he got ripped off on the installed (i.e. it was a crap job) or if the shop he paid did a good job (which you can also tell by detail work paid.)

I wish you the best of luck.
 
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