Do I need to buy new wheel well clips each time I remove the oil filter?
- Thread starter Rancho5
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AntleredRuin
New member
Nope no garage lift, and I'm still on my stock front springs. I just lay under it. It's a truck, not a car; it's high enough.
2 minutes may be a slight over-exaggeration, but the skid plate is all of 5 bolts, and holds itself on in the front. Remove it as a whole; the back 2 on the transmission, then the front 3 under the radiator.
True, no rust due to being in Texas, but come on. The oil filter is supposed to be hand tight, then just a little extra. Change it a few times a year, and salt/rust shouldn't be an issue. I just use a basic oil filter clamp to give it that tiny bit extra. It even fits fine over my oversized filter (FL400S).
Haha ok you're in the minority. Kudos. And oh yeah, that upper rear shock nut. I'm admittedly rust free, so I have no legitimate opinion on that. I was expecting hell, but it was so easy it felt loose. I did get filthy when doing it though, which I suspect is the real cause for the *****ing about the oil filter, not the actual difficulty level. I guess I just expect to take a shower after working on any vehicle, so I don't complain when my hands get a little oil or road grime on them.
Having never actually gone through the wheel well, I can't answer your question. But to be honest, if you've managed to find a way to remove the filter through the wheel well without removing the skid plates and without leaking oil everywhere, you're probably a witch.
Very good point. Plus, most of us park on concrete, and how much of that spilled oil eventually makes it off the skid plates and stains your garage floor or driveway? No thanks.
I use my M12 impact driver with a socket adapter, and it comes off very quick. And to be honest, almost everyone has an impact driver nowadays, so I don't see that as 'cheating' in terms of how long it takes me.
Tim, I've been meaning to ask you since I saw you used that M12 ratchet; Are you planning on getting one of the M12 stubby impact wrenches that just came out?
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phattyduck
Elite Member
There *is* a secret - a Form-a-Funnel:
My oil changes require nearly 0 tools - just a trim puller for the clips on the fender apron. The OEM clips seem to last, but the aftermarket ones I have slowly been replacing them with aren't so good.
I'd rather not take off my heavy skid plate that is held on with 4x 19mm bolts and 5x 14mm bolts...
Previous to the form-a-funnel my stock skids looked like this after every change:
-Charlie
Scramble
New member
Who gives a shit if you get oil on your skid plate???? LOL It's free rust proofing.
And yes the 5VZ is the worst motor I've ever seen for the oil filter placement. So dont BS us that's it's easy. It's not hard, just in a shitty spot & takes a lot more time than any other vehicle.
No lift or ramps needed. Just roll under there. It's a truck. I use steel ramps on my Honda & Suby.
I remove the front stock skid plate, it's in two pieces so it's not heavy at all to remove. Try messing with a 3/16" one piece aftermarket engine skid. Luckily the 3RZ has an easily accessible oil filter like a normal engine.
And yes the 5VZ is the worst motor I've ever seen for the oil filter placement. So dont BS us that's it's easy. It's not hard, just in a shitty spot & takes a lot more time than any other vehicle.
No lift or ramps needed. Just roll under there. It's a truck. I use steel ramps on my Honda & Suby.
I remove the front stock skid plate, it's in two pieces so it's not heavy at all to remove. Try messing with a 3/16" one piece aftermarket engine skid. Luckily the 3RZ has an easily accessible oil filter like a normal engine.
Ghostrider
Registered User
May be wrong since I had an 01 - but I think the early 3rd gen's did require pulling the flap in the wheel well loose from clips and they changed it around 2000. I never had to worry about clips. I also used a 36" socket extension from Harbor Freight to reach in with the filter removal tool on the end so it made it easy. And I always removed the skid plates. 
spartacus
Senior Member
easy peasy ,
Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 730 73mm Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00239WHLG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_pl1RBbTY95GZ0
Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 730 73mm Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00239WHLG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_pl1RBbTY95GZ0
firemanj92
New member
I'm spoiled, I have a oil filter relocator.
Really easy to install & for the cost well worth the convenience.
I have a 1st gen Tacoma but basically the same.
Do you have a link to the kit? Been meaning to do this for awhile.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
My engine has so much oil that I can't tell heads from tails where my oil leaks are lol! The PO let the valve covers leak for years so everything is a nice caked black mess.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
No, my 2011 Altima Hybrid takes the cake there. I have to jack up the front end, pull the passenger's front tire off, remove the fender flaps, and then contort up the side of the engine to get the filter out. Sad thing is, that's exactly how the FSM says to do it.
AntleredRuin
New member
And this is exactly why I'll either change my own oil or have the dealer do it. I'd be terrified to let a Jiffy Lube or similar do that job. Way too much to go wrong for a minimum wage teenager to be touching it.
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sleepydad
Senior Member
Hey where u get that kit from?
Where did you get the kit from, please.
I'm spoiled, I have a oil filter relocator.
Really easy to install & for the cost well worth the convenience.
I have a 1st gen Tacoma but basically the same.
Where did you get the kit from, please.
Scramble
New member
Thats like changing the headlight bulbs on my 09 Accord. I had to remove the fender liner to go in from behind. Absolutely ridiculous. Usually I change both bulbs at the same but not with this car! LOL
Duboges
New member
I had a small leak from my oil pressure switch (next to the filter) and the part of the skid plate where the oil dripped is pristine. Meanwhile the rest of the skid plate looks its age.
Ed_C
Senior Member
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY and a long wobble extension, no need to remove the fender splash shield
Wedgy
New member
Not sure if that one fits but google;
"1998 4runner oil filter relocator"
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...i39j0i131j0i20i263j0i22i30j33i160.BiXLm2yc0yY
https://www.summitracing.com/search...ter-relocation-kits/make/toyota/model/4runner
"1998 4runner oil filter relocator"
https://www.google.com/search?sourc...i39j0i131j0i20i263j0i22i30j33i160.BiXLm2yc0yY
https://www.summitracing.com/search...ter-relocation-kits/make/toyota/model/4runner
zero4
New member
They make kits but I didn't use one. There's even fancy expensive CNC machined mounts but my truck is not a race truck.
I bought the filter adapter & remote mount individually cause I wanted a certain configuration for the remote mount. Mine is made by Permacool. It's been a long time but IIRC I purchased from Summit. Bought the NPT fittings at Lowes & 1/2" oil hose at Summit also. Be sure not to use heater hose.
I used PC#111 & PC#1701
You can see the other configurations on Permacool's website. Derale also makes similar adapters & mounts, I believe all the usual performance shops like Summit, Jegs, etc sells them too. Looks like Amazon carries it too now if you got Prime.
Edit: Oh forgot to mention, it'll add a bit of oil capacity too. I use 6.5qts for oil change. I just recently got Total Chaos shock bucket gussets installed so I had to reroute my oil lines. So if you are considering installing this & get the TC gussets too, probably best to get the gussets installed first. It was time to replace my lines anyway. I like to replaced them every 4-5 yrs or so.
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Unner
New member
If you guys think the oil filter on the 5VZ is hard to get to you've never worked on a vehicle that actually has a hard to reach oil filter... It takes me 20-30 minutes to change my oil. Open the fill cap, take the drain plug out, take the old filter off, let it drain for a little while, put the new filter on, put the drain plug in and fill her up.
I've always reached through the fender well to reach my oil filter when taking it off, but I reach in through the hood past the alternator to loosen and tighten it. I don't even have a clip on that flap. My truck didn't have that clip when I got it. It just tucks up against the shock tower and doesn't move so I leave it like that.
I have aftermarket skids. Absolutely no way I'm going to pull a 60 pound skid plate to change my oil... Once everything is closed up I wipe it down and hose it off/wait for rain.
I've always reached through the fender well to reach my oil filter when taking it off, but I reach in through the hood past the alternator to loosen and tighten it. I don't even have a clip on that flap. My truck didn't have that clip when I got it. It just tucks up against the shock tower and doesn't move so I leave it like that.
I have aftermarket skids. Absolutely no way I'm going to pull a 60 pound skid plate to change my oil... Once everything is closed up I wipe it down and hose it off/wait for rain.
AntleredRuin
New member
OK those of you with aftermarket skid plates have a fair point. Those usually cover a whole lot more and are a whole lot heavier than stock skids plates.
But, that's hardly OEM, and hardly an issue with the 5VZ. That's intentionally adding something extra to block access to the engine from below.
Stock for stock, it's not a difficult engine to access the oil filter on.
But, that's hardly OEM, and hardly an issue with the 5VZ. That's intentionally adding something extra to block access to the engine from below.
Stock for stock, it's not a difficult engine to access the oil filter on.
I can't imagine working on something 'newer' like that. My wife's '03 RAV4's side markers are a royal pain to get to too. I'm *just* able to contort my hand back there IF i use 10" long right angle needle nose pliers and nearly dislocate my wrist in the process. And then I have to do the process in reverse on the other side with my left hand, and I'm not ambidextrous so it's all but impossible.
sleepydad
Senior Member
They make kits but I didn't use one. There's even fancy expensive CNC machined mounts but my truck is not a race truck.
I bought the filter adapter & remote mount individually cause I wanted a certain configuration for the remote mount. Mine is made by Permacool. It's been a long time but IIRC I purchased from Summit. Bought the NPT fittings at Lowes & 1/2" oil hose at Summit also. Be sure not to use heater hose.
I used PC#111 & PC#1701
You can see the other configurations on Permacool's website. Derale also makes similar adapters & mounts, I believe all the usual performance shops like Summit, Jegs, etc sells them too. Looks like Amazon carries it too now if you got Prime.
Edit: Oh forgot to mention, it'll add a bit of oil capacity too. I use 6.5qts for oil change. I just recently got Total Chaos shock bucket gussets installed so I had to reroute my oil lines. So if you are considering installing this & get the TC gussets too, probably best to get the gussets installed first. It was time to replace my lines anyway. I like to replaced them every 4-5 yrs or so.
cool thanks, yea I have seen tons of them all over I was just curios since you had been running yours for a while. Right now I'm running 2 oil filters, 1 in the normal spot and 1 where the oil cooler would be. I have oil pressure for days, the oil cooler seems to add about 5psi of resistance.
I installed an older salvage engine so for a while I will run 2 filters and change oil a bit more often in hopes to get any crud out.
thanks for the info
