Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

I recently installed my Icon DJ UCAs and what a difference. I was originally disappointed with the firmness of my Dobinson's setup and all I needed to do was go with Mike's original suggestion to get UCAs!
Oh yeah, stock UCA's and ball joints in a close-to-max position adds firmness, since the BJ isn't as free to move anymore, and some do confuse that with thinking the suspension is too firm.

Glad you got some new arms on there, and can feel the improvement!! I remember in the Tacoma we had here for a while, new UCA's made a massive improvement in ride quality.
 
Hey Mike,

On the first page of this thread, it says the C59-300's give 1.75" of lift to the front of a 5th gen 4Runner. On the website, it says they give 2" of lift. Any clarification would be great. Thanks.
 
Hey Mike,

On the first page of this thread, it says the C59-300's give 1.75" of lift to the front of a 5th gen 4Runner. On the website, it says they give 2" of lift. Any clarification would be great. Thanks.
That's the minimum lift height but most claim 2" on a brand new 5th gen
 
I just installed my 726/700 and 723/705 Dobinsons! Pics to come, but how much do I tighten the top nut on the shock? I can't torque it to the specified 18 ft/lbs. No space.

Currently there is about 1/2 inch of threads exposed above the nut on the front and rear shocks.
 
I just installed my 726/700 and 723/705 Dobinsons! Pics to come, but how much do I tighten the top nut on the shock? I can't torque it to the specified 18 ft/lbs. No space.

Currently there is about 1/2 inch of threads exposed above the nut on the front and rear shocks.

That sounds about right.

The front strut nut gets tightened until it bottoms out on the threads. The rear gets tightened to torque, but it's hard to do, so it's usually until the bushings bulge out some and the top of the shock has no movement left in it by hand.
 
Just installed my C59-505 rear coils which are advertised as 1.5" of lift but i ended up getting 2 inches instead. I also installed the dobinsons rear 15MM poly coil spacer on the driver side.

Hub to Fender measurements are as follows:
Front Driver - 22 Front Passenger - 22
Rear Driver - 23.75 Rear Passenger - 24

Perfect stance and truck rides great!
 
I just installed my 726/700 and 723/705 Dobinsons! Pics to come, but how much do I tighten the top nut on the shock? I can't torque it to the specified 18 ft/lbs. No space.



Currently there is about 1/2 inch of threads exposed above the nut on the front and rear shocks.



Pictures man!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I currently have Bilstein 5100 with stock springs and stock tophats. I purchased some Dobinson front springs. Can I reuse the stock tophats or do I need to purchase different ones? If so, which ones are recommended?
 
Just got my 4R back! See sig for which coils/shocks/struts.

Haven't driven it much but with what experience I've had so far, I can say the ride is firmer in a good way. Feels much better/smoother on the highway now and the nose dive is no longer there!

Body roll is pretty much non-existent too (also have KDSS but the improvement is noticeable)

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My 19 SR5 requires a level 3"/2" lift.

I will add sliders, and skid plates in the near future (so maybe 200lbs?)

I know i need a diff drop, UCA'S, and sway bar end links.

Do i need a rear track bar to re-center the axle?
What about bump stops?
 
Mike, I saw you had done 314 springs and 574 front shocks on your own truck, however, with a full steel front bumper... Is there too much lift with that combo w/ a steel slimline bumper and winch (and dual batteries, skids, sliders)?

Is the best way to measure the hub to fender height with the current 300/574 combo and go from there? I'm on the fence between upgrading to 302s or 314s when the winch/slim-line bumper go on. (UCAs and diff drop are both already on the truck)
 
My 19 SR5 requires a level 3"/2" lift.

I will add sliders, and skid plates in the near future (so maybe 200lbs?)

I know i need a diff drop, UCA'S, and sway bar end links.

Do i need a rear track bar to re-center the axle?
What about bump stops?
No, you don't need the track bar or to change bump stops with 2" rear lift.
 
Mike, I saw you had done 314 springs and 574 front shocks on your own truck, however, with a full steel front bumper... Is there too much lift with that combo w/ a steel slimline bumper and winch (and dual batteries, skids, sliders)?

Is the best way to measure the hub to fender height with the current 300/574 combo and go from there? I'm on the fence between upgrading to 302s or 314s when the winch/slim-line bumper go on. (UCAs and diff drop are both already on the truck)
No, I'm right at 3" lift right now without running the winch (with 574's and 314's). With the slimline, winch, and dual batteries, you should be good with 314's unless you're concerned with being over 3". It's the 2nd battery that adds the extra weight to push up to the 314's.

302 with 574 with slimline/lopro and winch is usually right at 3". Extra weight from skids and a 2nd battery would bring it down a little more
 
you should be good with 314's unless you're concerned with being over 3". It's the 2nd battery that adds the extra weight to push up to the 314's

Not really concerned with the at/just over 3" per se; the rear is 327s with just barely enough weight so there is plenty of rake to play with.

Thank you for the answer!!
 
Ok, here is where I am at with the lift kit I have planned:

Front springs: 302 (2.5")
Rear springs: 325 (2")

Front struts: 574
Rear struts: 701

Front UCA: UCA59-002K
Strut caps: SC59-001
Rear sway bar end link: SE59-529

Diff drop: ToyTec
Front sway bar relocation: ToyTec


I am trying to achieve a close to level lift overall.


Does the above setup seem complete? or am I missing something?
 
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