Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

[Crikeymike]

My abused 705s ahaha. Still loving em and will one day replace with the ims 701s. I don't know how folks with exposed rear shafts do it (monotubes without boots).

Yeah, exactly. And different tires and tread designs pick up more rocks than others. Exposed rear shock shafts take an absolute beating if left exposed.

 

[carlodonz]

Finally installed my Dobinsons MRA lift kit!

Front: C59-302 MRA59-A700
Read: C59-505 MRA59-A701
Spc Upper Control Arms

 

[LA260]

Just measured front hub to fender is 22.5/22.75 driver/passenger.

My pre-lift measurements were 19.5/20, fresh suspension install (no bumper or winch) was 23/24.5 (not sure I trust that 24.5, might have been a typo on the spread sheet, but this was literally after five miles of driving after the install).

After fresh bumper/winch install (Jan 7) was 22.5/23, and hasn't really dropped since then.

The ride is great! Just a little higher than I was expecting.

Love the stance!! Looks like you still have a little bit of rake which is what I'm aiming for.

For people who have IMS shocks, can they be adjusted while on the vehicle?

 

[ERMBPA]

You'll technically be under the cutoff and be able to get a factory alignment, but more caster would be ideal with new UCA's. Something to save for and add when you can. New UCA's will also help get the full range of wheel travel.

Just a curiosity question but I noticed that when you put the 314 front coils in the cart it offers 3 color choices but the rear 329's don't offer the choice. Is the color options only for the fronts?

 

[Crikeymike]

Just a curiosity question but I noticed that when you put the 314 front coils in the cart it offers 3 color choices but the rear 329's don't offer the choice. Is the color options only for the fronts?

Referring back to post #1 of this thread, not every coil is offered in every color. 329's are only made in teal.

 

[Nyte_rnr]

Hi Mike and T4R community!

1st time 4runner owner, 2020 ORP with KDSS. Im a little out of my element so I apologize for the long post with so many questions. I come from the sports car world where I'm accustomed to lowering cars, not lifting them
Ive been lurking through this thread, eyeing the Dobinsons MRA setup for a while, but I'm hoping you can give a little insight and see if this will fit my needs?

Front:
MRA59-A700 with C59-302 or 314 (with spacers for KDSS)
Rear:
MRA59-A701 with C59-325 or 327

New UCA (brand TBD)
Diff lowering kit

My goal is to be able to get my rig on the road ASAP with some new rims and 285's while giving me some more clearance off road. Since it will be mostly a DD/weekend warrior, on-road comfort is a priority which is why the MRA is appealing to me.

I think 3" front and 2" rear is right around where i want to be. What is the most popular lift F/R that you see people with KDSS and 285s ordering?

As of now I am completely stock. I have plans in the very near future to run sliders, roof rack, "Rigd" rear tire hitch swing out (not full bumper yet) and a drawer system, which is why I'm having a hard time deciding which coils to run.

much further down the road I plan on front and rear bumpers, winch and a RTT

Would the above coil setup/lift height work fine while I'm completely stock AND continue to work well once I start loading it down with my first round of modifications in the rear?

or should I progressively change out to different coils as needed each time i'm increasing weight?

Is a 3" lift too ambitious if i'm trying to retain or exceed stock on-road comfort?

any input is appreciated! let me know if i am way off the mark or not. I'm a big fan of do it once and do it right so if you have any suggestions on what you think will work best, I'm all ears and ready to place an order!

 

[DeserT4R]

Hi Mike,

I have a set of 14”coils from 6112’s that I plan on putting on my TRD Pro fronts. I have been considering using 599s for the rear. I have no constant weight in the rear and plan on adding sliders in the near future. Should this keep it level or at the least keep the forward rake? (I definitely don’t want a reverse rake.). Thanks!

 

[Crikeymike]

Hi Mike and T4R community!

1st time 4runner owner, 2020 ORP with KDSS. Im a little out of my element so I apologize for the long post with so many questions. I come from the sports car world where I'm accustomed to lowering cars, not lifting them
Ive been lurking through this thread, eyeing the Dobinsons MRA setup for a while, but I'm hoping you can give a little insight and see if this will fit my needs?

Front:
MRA59-A700 with C59-302 or 314 (with spacers for KDSS)
Rear:
MRA59-A701 with C59-325 or 327

New UCA (brand TBD)
Diff lowering kit

My goal is to be able to get my rig on the road ASAP with some new rims and 285's while giving me some more clearance off road. Since it will be mostly a DD/weekend warrior, on-road comfort is a priority which is why the MRA is appealing to me.

I think 3" front and 2" rear is right around where i want to be. What is the most popular lift F/R that you see people with KDSS and 285s ordering?

As of now I am completely stock. I have plans in the very near future to run sliders, roof rack, "Rigd" rear tire hitch swing out (not full bumper yet) and a drawer system, which is why I'm having a hard time deciding which coils to run.

much further down the road I plan on front and rear bumpers, winch and a RTT

Would the above coil setup/lift height work fine while I'm completely stock AND continue to work well once I start loading it down with my first round of modifications in the rear?

or should I progressively change out to different coils as needed each time i'm increasing weight?

Is a 3" lift too ambitious if i'm trying to retain or exceed stock on-road comfort?

any input is appreciated! let me know if i am way off the mark or not. I'm a big fan of do it once and do it right so if you have any suggestions on what you think will work best, I'm all ears and ready to place an order!

Hey bud,

3/2" is really common for that tire size, and gives a nice and mostly level look once installed.

MRA59-A574 with C59-300 would be the common 3" setup for no weight, and the coil seat height would be set appropriately. Or you could use the longer C59-314 and a standard/lower coil seat height, that way later when you add more weight you can raise the coil seat up to compensate for weight added.

For the rear, it just depends how much total weight you think you'll have. The tire carrier adds leverage off the rear. Drawers are almost never empty, so there's going to be weight in those as well as the weight of the drawers too. The 327's are probably ideal for the rear, especially with plans of a RTT.

Without weight though, it will be a little firmer and taller until that weight is added, just so you know. A full rear bumper would require a rear coil change.

 

[Crikeymike]

Hi Mike,

I have a set of 14”coils from 6112’s that I plan on putting on my TRD Pro fronts. I have been considering using 599s for the rear. I have no constant weight in the rear and plan on adding sliders in the near future. Should this keep it level or at the least keep the forward rake? (I definitely don’t want a reverse rake.). Thanks!

Hey man. It would depend on how high you set the front to.

2" front and 1" rear leaves 1" of rake. Any more lift up front, you're reducing your rake more and more.

 

[Nyte_rnr]

Hey bud,

3/2" is really common for that tire size, and gives a nice and mostly level look once installed.

MRA59-A574 with C59-300 would be the common 3" setup for no weight, and the coil seat height would be set appropriately. Or you could use the longer C59-314 and a standard/lower coil seat height, that way later when you add more weight you can raise the coil seat up to compensate for weight added.

For the rear, it just depends how much total weight you think you'll have. The tire carrier adds leverage off the rear. Drawers are almost never empty, so there's going to be weight in those as well as the weight of the drawers too. The 327's are probably ideal for the rear, especially with plans of a RTT.

Without weight though, it will be a little firmer and taller until that weight is added, just so you know. A full rear bumper would require a rear coil change.

This is perfect. Thank you Mike!

Looks like I’ll be going with:
Front - MRA59-A574 (long travel instead of standard, correct?) with C59-314 coils and set the ride height lower until more weight is added.

Rear - MRA59-A701A (standard travel) with C59-325/327/329 coils As needed.

I’m assuming long travel would be unnecessary for the rear in my case since I’m only going up to 2” and KDSS is involved? Just wondering since you recommended long travel for the front for future height adjustments.

That’s all the info I needed to feel confident about this purchase! Thanks for the quick reply

 

[Crikeymike]

This is perfect. Thank you Mike!

Looks like I’ll be going with:
Front - MRA59-A574 (long travel instead of standard, correct?) with C59-314 coils and set the ride height lower until more weight is added.

Rear - MRA59-A701A (standard travel) with C59-325/327/329 coils As needed.

I’m assuming long travel would be unnecessary for the rear in my case since I’m only going up to 2” and KDSS is involved? Just wondering since you recommended long travel for the front for future height adjustments.

That’s all the info I needed to feel confident about this purchase! Thanks for the quick reply

Yes that's correct up front. I do recommend a diff drop kit up front with the long travel struts to avoid CV binding at full extension.

Yeah, on the rear just the regular 701's. The KDSS models can't use long travel rear shocks, as it would lead to a $4000 catastrophe pretty quickly!!

 

[30338]

So if I have Bilstein 5100 shocks, set at the 0" level, and use the C59-300 springs in front I should end up with a 1.75" lift in front? Never done this so wanting confirmation. Thank you

 

[Crikeymike]

So if I have Bilstein 5100 shocks, set at the 0" level, and use the C59-300 springs in front I should end up with a 1.75" lift in front? Never done this so wanting confirmation. Thank you

For a V6 with stock weight. Yes that's right

 

[macscac]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]


I need some advice.
I would like to raise my rear 1" and replace the stock (rear) strut with something with a little more long travel.

what would you advise?
i have 2018 trdor with KDSS.

This is my current set up.
thank you


Dobinsons c59-314 in front. 3” lift
Front struts GS59-700. Long travel (+1”)

Dobinsons C59-327 in rear. 2.0” lift
Dobinsons UCA59-002k. UCA’s
Stock rear struts

 

[30338]

For a V6 with stock weight. Yes that's right

Ordered those 300s and some 505 for the rear. Can't wait to try them out. Thanks for the help.

 

[Crikeymike]

[MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]


I need some advice.
I would like to raise my rear 1" and replace the stock (rear) strut with something with a little more long travel.

what would you advise?
i have 2018 trdor with KDSS.

This is my current set up.
thank you


Dobinsons c59-314 in front. 3” lift
Front struts GS59-700. Long travel (+1”)

Dobinsons C59-327 in rear. 2.0” lift
Dobinsons UCA59-002k. UCA’s
Stock rear struts

GS59-701 are the longest shocks you can run with KDSS in the rear.

What's your hub to fender height in the rear? Usually 2.5" is the max height I suggest with KDSS because it can end up giving you a lean that's hard to correct from left to right.

 

[Jeff_DML]

So if I have Bilstein 5100 shocks, set at the 0" level, and use the C59-300 springs in front I should end up with a 1.75" lift in front? Never done this so wanting confirmation. Thank you

For a V6 with stock weight. Yes that's right

Ordered those 300s and some 505 for the rear. Can't wait to try them out. Thanks for the help.

I just installed this setup on my SR5 third row last week,

Measuring from the hub to the fender I gained 2.5" front and rear initially. The rear did seem to settle about by .5 inch so it is current measures 2.5f/2r.

How long does it take to usually settle? My buddy suggested I should try articulating the suspension to get it to settle quicker? Maybe my stock suspension was sagging? had 40k on it.

The way I am measuring I admit is not the most accurate since I am guesstimating the middle of the axle.

 

[Crikeymike]

I just installed this setup on my SR5 third row last week,

Measuring from the hub to the fender I gained 2.5" front and rear initially. The rear did seem to settle about by .5 inch so it is current measures 2.5f/2r.

How long does it take to usually settle? My buddy suggested I should try articulating the suspension to get it to settle quicker? Maybe my stock suspension was sagging? had 40k on it.

The way I am measuring I admit is not the most accurate since I am guesstimating the middle of the axle.

Suspension takes about 500 miles to fully settle. Yeah, getting it offroad and cycling thru the suspension will help settle it.

Front should be around 22" and rear 23.5" hub to fender with the parts you have.

If you can't find the middle of the wheel, measure from the bottom lip of the rim to the fender, then deduct the radius of your wheel to find dead center without randomly holding it in the middle.

 

[Jeff_DML]

Suspension takes about 500 miles to fully settle. Yeah, getting it offroad and cycling thru the suspension will help settle it.

Front should be around 22" and rear 23.5" hub to fender with the parts you have.

If you can't find the middle of the wheel, measure from the bottom lip of the rim to the fender, then deduct the radius of your wheel to find dead center without randomly holding it in the middle.

thanks, you should put the settling info in your OP. I searched around but could not find any info.

I measured 20.5"f/21.5" rear with stock suspension but my driveway is probably not exactly level. Currently measuring 23"/23.5" in the same driveway location.

thanks for the info, will try to cycle the suspension.

 

[pwflaherty87]

Got my setup installed. Ride is much improved. 2.5 front and 2 rear looks perfect to me, bigger than it sounds. 285s with 1.25" spacers fit perfectly with a little trimming on the bumper and removing the front mud flaps. No BMC!

Front C59-302 / GS59-700
Rear C59-725 / GS59-70
JBA UCAs

Nitto Ridge Grapplers passenger rated, nice and quiet but difficult to balance.

Overall, thanks to everyone in this thread, especially Mike.

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