Crikeymike
Senior Member
That's a pretty common coil to run with that weight. It wouldn't be overkill with that weight.
Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad
- Thread starter Crikeymike
- Start date
That's a pretty common coil to run with that weight. It wouldn't be overkill with that weight.
Sweet. I figure I'd rather be on the low end of weight on the 352s versus the high end on the 314s. Will prob end up running 327s in the rear.
Finslayer83
New member
Sweet thanks. I just looked back at your 327 static weight pictures and with me having less weight in the front and rear, with the weight I do run I think it'll put me in a nice spot. Just around 200lbs static front and rear.
Another question. Would the less weight on the 352s provide more lift than the advertised 2"? Maybe around 3" or more? I'd be on the high end of the 314s weight wise which I know are longer but much less of a spring rate. I feel like the 354s are too much since I don't have a full steel bumper. Also not trying to LT the front with 574 shocks. Looking at 327 with 701 shocks for the rear.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Yes. Any coil without the required weight will sit taller. Just like how the coils come before they're installed in the vehicle, they're a lot longer until the weight is added.
C59-314 and C59-352 sit at about the same loaded height of about 3" with no added weight.
Finslayer83
New member
Got to workout the new spring combo today at Windrock.
Fantastic.
Fantastic.
Dobinson spec advice pls.
Looking for advice / confirmation on front and rear coil selection for my dobinsons suspension lift for a daily driver that I want to take overlanding.
Looking for 2-2.5 inch lift in front and 2" lift in rear. Hoping for stiff but not harsh ride. Hoping the MRA will give me some flexibility when switching between daily driver vs. overlanding.
2022 4runner offroad mods:
RCI aluminum full skid plate set (68 lbs)
RCI A-Arm Skids (18 lbs)
RCI Lower Link Skids (14 lbs)
RCI Aluminum Gas tank skid (35 lbs)
CBI Front Steel bumper with bull bars (120 lbs)
diode dynamics -30" light bar (?? 10 lbs)
Warn Zeon Winch - synthetic line (75l bs)
RCI rock sliders steel (90 lbs)
Sherpa roof rack (50 lbs)
CBI rear bumper steel dual swing out with full size wheel/tire (200 lbs)
dual 20L scepter cans (gas/water) (88 lbs)
Small Propane tank mounted on swing out (??40lbs)
100 AH LifePo2 battery (in rear) (30lb)
12V fridge (50lb)
Tires: 185 70 R17 (ko2 or wildpeaks) with method wheels.
Will eventually be building a drawer system in the rear.
I calculate added weight approximately before adding camping gear:
Front: 366 lbs
Rear: 543 lbs (+ 100lb drawer in future)
Which front do you recommend?
front coils option 1: C59-354 - With 220-300lbs - 2.5" | Heavy rate coils
front coils options 2: C59-352 - With 220-300lbs - 2" | Heavy rate coils
Which rear do you recommend?
Rear coil option 1: C59-329- 2" with 500-800 lbs weight
Rear coil option 2: C59-327 -2" with 200-400 lbs weight
front struts: mra59-a700 standard travel
rear shocks: Mra-59 a701 standard travel
Should i be considering the extended travel versions when i am only lifting 2-2.5 inches?
Planning to replace stock uca with Dobinson UCA.
Will I need extended brake lines front and back?
Because I am trying to stay at around 2-2.5 inches of lift, I am not thinking I need any of the other optional mods (diff drop, etc), correct me if that assumption is wrong.
I will be replacing the sway bar end links with forged Overland Custom Designs
front and rear.
This is my first build, so any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simeon
Looking for advice / confirmation on front and rear coil selection for my dobinsons suspension lift for a daily driver that I want to take overlanding.
Looking for 2-2.5 inch lift in front and 2" lift in rear. Hoping for stiff but not harsh ride. Hoping the MRA will give me some flexibility when switching between daily driver vs. overlanding.
2022 4runner offroad mods:
RCI aluminum full skid plate set (68 lbs)
RCI A-Arm Skids (18 lbs)
RCI Lower Link Skids (14 lbs)
RCI Aluminum Gas tank skid (35 lbs)
CBI Front Steel bumper with bull bars (120 lbs)
diode dynamics -30" light bar (?? 10 lbs)
Warn Zeon Winch - synthetic line (75l bs)
RCI rock sliders steel (90 lbs)
Sherpa roof rack (50 lbs)
CBI rear bumper steel dual swing out with full size wheel/tire (200 lbs)
dual 20L scepter cans (gas/water) (88 lbs)
Small Propane tank mounted on swing out (??40lbs)
100 AH LifePo2 battery (in rear) (30lb)
12V fridge (50lb)
Tires: 185 70 R17 (ko2 or wildpeaks) with method wheels.
Will eventually be building a drawer system in the rear.
I calculate added weight approximately before adding camping gear:
Front: 366 lbs
Rear: 543 lbs (+ 100lb drawer in future)
Which front do you recommend?
front coils option 1: C59-354 - With 220-300lbs - 2.5" | Heavy rate coils
front coils options 2: C59-352 - With 220-300lbs - 2" | Heavy rate coils
Which rear do you recommend?
Rear coil option 1: C59-329- 2" with 500-800 lbs weight
Rear coil option 2: C59-327 -2" with 200-400 lbs weight
front struts: mra59-a700 standard travel
rear shocks: Mra-59 a701 standard travel
Should i be considering the extended travel versions when i am only lifting 2-2.5 inches?
Planning to replace stock uca with Dobinson UCA.
Will I need extended brake lines front and back?
Because I am trying to stay at around 2-2.5 inches of lift, I am not thinking I need any of the other optional mods (diff drop, etc), correct me if that assumption is wrong.
I will be replacing the sway bar end links with forged Overland Custom Designs
front and rear.
This is my first build, so any advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Simeon
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Crikeymike
Senior Member
Hey Simeon,
Congrats on the 4Runner and welcome to the forum!! Sounds like you've done some great research so far.
Up front, I'd recommend the C59-352 coils. The leverage of the bumper and winch is what will affect the weight the most. Use those with MRA59-A700 so that you don't need the diff drop kit (ext travel needs it), and then a set of UCA's. You can always add some more height too with the MRA's if you want, but with that added weight and the regular coil seat height, you'd be right at that 2" height.
In the rear with the CBI rear bumper and accessories, those are super hefty and add a lot of leverage. You'll want the C59-329 coils back there for that, plus the drawers and other weight you'll have. Then the MRA59-A701 shocks.
Good deal on the sway bar links. You won't need to touch the brake lines.
Newbie
Hey guys. New to the thread and looking for advise. 210 pages of post is a lot to look at so sorry if someone else has already asked this
I have a 2022 TRD OFF Road. I have ordered a pretty aggressive set of wheels and want to get the maximum lift capabilities. I will be running 17x9 -38 Black Rhino wheels and 285/70/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. After days of back and fourth on lifts, I think Dobinson is the best way to go without having to spend $4k on a King Setup 
I am looking at the 3.5'' Kit. My question is, If I go with a spring that is made for heavier weight, my brain says logically I'll get slightly more lift if I dont actually have the extra weight. Is this correct? I completely understand that the ride quality will stiffen up and I'm ok with that ( I have driven trucks and jeeps my entire life so I like the heavier feel) But I want to make sure that I would not be doing any damage by having the HD coils without the extra weight. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
Hey guys. New to the thread and looking for advise. 210 pages of post is a lot to look at so sorry if someone else has already asked this
I have a 2022 TRD OFF Road. I have ordered a pretty aggressive set of wheels and want to get the maximum lift capabilities. I will be running 17x9 -38 Black Rhino wheels and 285/70/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. After days of back and fourth on lifts, I think Dobinson is the best way to go without having to spend $4k on a King Setup I am looking at the 3.5'' Kit. My question is, If I go with a spring that is made for heavier weight, my brain says logically I'll get slightly more lift if I dont actually have the extra weight. Is this correct? I completely understand that the ride quality will stiffen up and I'm ok with that ( I have driven trucks and jeeps my entire life so I like the heavier feel) But I want to make sure that I would not be doing any damage by having the HD coils without the extra weight. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
Hey bud, welcome to the forum!Hey guys. New to the thread and looking for advise. 210 pages of post is a lot to look at so sorry if someone else has already asked this
Yeah, just like how a coil spring is taller out of the vehicle than when it's installed (unloaded), it will sit taller. Running heavy load springs without a heavy load isn't recommended. The lift height can easily be 1" taller or more without the added weight, and that can put strain on some joints and other parts. It's best to add the coils to suit the weight, or add the extra parts at the same time so that it all works together.
In some cases, some rear coils can't even go in properly without the extra weight and the load on them to sit down properly.
Thanks man really appreciate the Insight. Makes total sense. That’s what I was concerned about was damaging other parts by not having the extra weight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Finslayer83
New member
C59-354
Hi Mike, it's me again.
I've decided I would like to go the long travel route for my rear. With weld on tire carrier 40lbs, tire and wheel 95lbs, & DIY wood storage box w gear 75lbs. Looking like 210lbs static (went generous with the numbers to be sure). The box is removable but I prefer to have it in there all the time due to "what-ifs."
Is that too much weight for 675v? I don't want to be over lifted in the rear with 677v. I initially was going with 327s before the LT peaked my interest.
352 / 700 IMS up front
675v / 575 IMS in rear with the other supporting mods to make LT work correctly.
I've decided I would like to go the long travel route for my rear. With weld on tire carrier 40lbs, tire and wheel 95lbs, & DIY wood storage box w gear 75lbs. Looking like 210lbs static (went generous with the numbers to be sure). The box is removable but I prefer to have it in there all the time due to "what-ifs."
Is that too much weight for 675v? I don't want to be over lifted in the rear with 677v. I initially was going with 327s before the LT peaked my interest.
352 / 700 IMS up front
675v / 575 IMS in rear with the other supporting mods to make LT work correctly.
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Crikeymike
Senior Member
Hi, again! hahah
Yeah, you can run the 675V's with that weight and would probably be around the 2.5" height mark. It's not too much weight and generally the 677V would be more ideal, but not if you don't want that extra lift height.
You sold me on the 677V lol. Thanks man
mrblah
Senior Member
Crikeymike won’t steer you wrong
SC2388
New member
Truth.
Speaking of, does anyone here have a basic rundown of the how they adjust their MRRs for different situations or if you have a "do all" adjustment (like the number of clicks)? These are my first set with adjustment so just wanted to know if anyone could help me get started and then I can make adjustments as I learn. Thanks
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9lb taco
New member
Stupid question time: what’s the significance of the coil seat orientation (I think correct way is both sides with seat notch facing rear)?
I had a shop swap coils on my MRAs, and didn’t notice until reinstalling the passenger side that both struts were put back together with the same orientation. So if I install them as-is, driver would be facing rear and passenger facing front.
I’d rather not go back to that shop to redo it if I can help it.
I had a shop swap coils on my MRAs, and didn’t notice until reinstalling the passenger side that both struts were put back together with the same orientation. So if I install them as-is, driver would be facing rear and passenger facing front.
I’d rather not go back to that shop to redo it if I can help it.
Crikeymike
Senior Member
It was originally for sway bar clearance, as some vehicles have a sway bar that gets right up close to the strut, and it could contact it if there's not enough clearance. But in all the years I've been selling Dobinsons stuff, it hasn't made a difference that I've noticed if the notch faces forward or rearward. They just need to be that way to keep the coil straight. If the notch faces inwards or outwards, it can bow the coil, allowing the strut body and coil to contact.
It's not worth correcting it if they're facing opposite directions.
