Dobinsons 5th Gen T4R Suspension options - from Exit Offroad

Finally upgraded the stock suspension on my 2018 TRD ORP after 7 years! (6 New England winters).

I wanted a slight lift and a “Pro” ish stance:

- C59-238 Front Lifted Coil Springs
- GS59-700 Front Struts
- C59-323 Stock Height Rear Coil Springs
- GS59-701 Rear Shocks

Mike @ Exit Offroad was great to deal with and answered all my questions. I used his YouTube install video, AZ Overland’s Bilstien video, and the Toyota manual for torque specs.

I replaced the hardware (though not really necessary), rear stabilizer bar bushings, and will replace the engine splash guards (OEM) this weekend after noticing a couple small tears.

The yearly Woolwax sessions definitely helped keep the rust at bay. The front passenger side lower control arm needed some good persuasion (and cursing at) to swing down "freely". I’ll see how my alignment goes but managed to get the cam tabs back to their original position. I’ve read those cam bushing sleeves are notorious for seizing up.

While in the air, I loosened the upper and rear control arm bolts and re-torqued when on the ground to adjust (reset) the bushings.

Measurements (no added weight other than OEM rock sliders @ 70lbs total):


- Stock Baseline: FD 20”, FP 20”, RR 22”, RL 22”

- Pre-install: FD 19 1/2”, FP 19 3/4”, RR 21 3/4”, RL 21 3/4”
- Post-install + 5 mile pothole laden drive: FD 21”, FP 21”, RR 22 1/2”, RL 22 1/2”


Against baseline, I got 1” lift in the front and 1/2” in the rear, which matches Exit Offroad’s description. I’ll take measurements again after alignment and a good long drive.

Really feels good now, much more responsive, less roll in the turns, and not as jarring when hitting those potholes.

Will add back the 120 lbs of a tool box, misc, and recovery gear that’s in there year-round. Then There's the occasional camp trips with a roof box, awning, road shower and a single mountain bike on the hitch. I’ll measure each scenario.

Late summer, early fall they'll get the Woolwax (and Woolwax Drywax) treatment, so for now I'll enjoy the bright clean yellow ☀️ and teal :)

Thanks again [MENTION=148378]Crikeymike[/MENTION]!

Image is after install (wasn’t able able to get a good before shot)

I'm glad it has worked out so well!! Wow, you'd never think you live in the NE with the frame and everything looking as good as that. You should be a poster child of what all the NE guys should be doing to keep up with rust prevention!!!
 
I'm glad it has worked out so well!! Wow, you'd never think you live in the NE with the frame and everything looking as good as that. You should be a poster child of what all the NE guys should be doing to keep up with rust prevention!!!

HA, thanks Mike!
Yeah, a solid yearly (spring + fall) Woolwax/Fluid Film routine has done her well! Not the most enjoyable two days of the year but a labor of love I guess!!
 
Hey Will,

You don't have a front bumper or winch listed, and those are what truly add leverage to the front end, squatting the suspension. C59-302 are what you'd use for 2.5" of lift, then you'd add a little bit of preload if you were anything lower than that, but I doubt you would be.

Slider weight is carried by the entire suspension and barely affects lift height. Just like when people get in a vehicle, the height doesn't really change either.

C59-505 will probably still be about 1.75" of lift.

You can use a diff drop kit with RCI skids and no loss of ground clearance. Since they're made flat for the 4runner, they already sit down lower than the diff mounts. I ran them on my 5th Gen. CV's WILL bind at full droop with the IMS59-50574 installed with the UCA's you're looking at, unless you add a diff drop kit.

Dobinsons only do a sale once a year during Black Friday. We are awaiting a price increase that could happen any day now due to all these tariff variations happening, and shipping costs from overseas have just gone up as well.

Hey Mike,
Thanks for the advice, I went with it and ordered the parts you advised here. I did the install about a month ago, and wanted to post the before and after pictures as well as my thoughts on it for others to see.

Installation: I installed it myself in my garage. It was tough, not due to any issues with the Dobinsons, but just due to my own inexperience (I've never done a job this big before). But I was able to follow videos you've made on the Exit Offroad YouTube channel and others on YouTube and get the entire suspension installed over the course of a weekend. The KDSS made it difficult - connecting the front KDSS bar to the lower control arm took ~5 hours. I think if I had the DRKDSS spacers that would have made it easier, would you consider carrying them on your site and recommending them to people that have KDSS as an add on to this kit?
Overall, I'm glad I installed it myself, it gave me a good understanding of my 4Runner's suspension:

Driving impressions: The first thing I notice is a huge improvement in the nose dive that I was seeing under braking with the stock suspension, it's way better with the Dobinsons setup. The 4Runner also feels a lot more planted and the suspension "comes on" earlier, meaning that it's a lot more linear when going over bumps vs the stock suspension which would only "come on" towards the end of its travel. Worth noting that I do still have KDSS lean, even with the spacer kit. Prior to the lift I had about 1/2" of lean to the passenger's side with stock suspension, and after the lift it's about 0.8" of lean. Overall it doesn't bother me and I knew this was a risk when lifting 2.5". As far as lift height, it's pretty much exactly what Mike said it would be: 2.5" lift in the front and 2" lift in the rear.

Overall I'm very happy with it and highly recommend it. Before and After pictures:
 

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Hey Mike,
Thanks for the advice, I went with it and ordered the parts you advised here. I did the install about a month ago, and wanted to post the before and after pictures as well as my thoughts on it for others to see.

Installation: I installed it myself in my garage. It was tough, not due to any issues with the Dobinsons, but just due to my own inexperience (I've never done a job this big before). But I was able to follow videos you've made on the Exit Offroad YouTube channel and others on YouTube and get the entire suspension installed over the course of a weekend. The KDSS made it difficult - connecting the front KDSS bar to the lower control arm took ~5 hours. I think if I had the DRKDSS spacers that would have made it easier, would you consider carrying them on your site and recommending them to people that have KDSS as an add on to this kit?
Overall, I'm glad I installed it myself, it gave me a good understanding of my 4Runner's suspension:

Driving impressions: The first thing I notice is a huge improvement in the nose dive that I was seeing under braking with the stock suspension, it's way better with the Dobinsons setup. The 4Runner also feels a lot more planted and the suspension "comes on" earlier, meaning that it's a lot more linear when going over bumps vs the stock suspension which would only "come on" towards the end of its travel. Worth noting that I do still have KDSS lean, even with the spacer kit. Prior to the lift I had about 1/2" of lean to the passenger's side with stock suspension, and after the lift it's about 0.8" of lean. Overall it doesn't bother me and I knew this was a risk when lifting 2.5". As far as lift height, it's pretty much exactly what Mike said it would be: 2.5" lift in the front and 2" lift in the rear.

Overall I'm very happy with it and highly recommend it. Before and After pictures:

Thanks for the summary!!

No, I won't be carrying his parts, as his focus is direct to consumer (there's no margin in it for us), plus he offers 1000 colors or something. LOL

Wait for the suspension to settle some more then do another KDSS reset. WIth the spacers you have, it should settle out more then.
 
5TH Gen Lift Question

Hi Mike,

Im new here. It appears to me that you have tons of knowledge about lift kits for 5th Gen 4Runner and would like to get your opinion on my lifting plan.

My car,
2023 4Runner(5Th Gen) TRD OffRoad Premium, 18k Miles.

What I want to do?
I just want to lift it 2.5" in the front and 2"in the rear. Its mainly for look and I will use it for commuting, city driving, shopping, gym, etc.

What I decided to do after weeks of due diligence?

FRONT
BILSTEIN 5100 FRONT SHOCK
DOBINSON 2.5" Coilspring(C59-302)
JBA HIGH CASTER UCA
UPPER STRUT MOUNT

REAR
BILSTEIN 5100 REAR SHOCK
DOBINSON 2" Coilspring(C59-505B)
UPPER STRUT MOUNT

FALKEN WILDPEAK 285/70/R17 AT4W
METHOD MR305
METHOD LUGNUT KIT

What do you think? am I missing something? Is it a balanced kit for what its worth and what I need it for?

If the answer is yes?

JBA HIGH CASTER UCA says 'Every 3,000-5,000 miles: Grease the ball joint with lithium complex grease fortified with moly, until you see the boots swell (3-4pumps). Grease the arm bushings with the same grease until you see grease pushing out from the EZ Lube ports.' in their website... Is there alternative to this where I don't have to deal with the greasy process like the OEM?

Thank you so much in advance! I've been doing lots of research, watching videos and lots of calls. Im still not 100% sure about which direction to go. Your advice is highly appreciated.
 
Hi Mike,

Im new here. It appears to me that you have tons of knowledge about lift kits for 5th Gen 4Runner and would like to get your opinion on my lifting plan.

My car,
2023 4Runner(5Th Gen) TRD OffRoad Premium, 18k Miles.

What I want to do?
I just want to lift it 2.5" in the front and 2"in the rear. Its mainly for look and I will use it for commuting, city driving, shopping, gym, etc.

What I decided to do after weeks of due diligence?

FRONT
BILSTEIN 5100 FRONT SHOCK
DOBINSON 2.5" Coilspring(C59-302)
JBA HIGH CASTER UCA
UPPER STRUT MOUNT

REAR
BILSTEIN 5100 REAR SHOCK
DOBINSON 2" Coilspring(C59-505B)
UPPER STRUT MOUNT

FALKEN WILDPEAK 285/70/R17 AT4W
METHOD MR305
METHOD LUGNUT KIT

What do you think? am I missing something? Is it a balanced kit for what its worth and what I need it for?

If the answer is yes?

JBA HIGH CASTER UCA says 'Every 3,000-5,000 miles: Grease the ball joint with lithium complex grease fortified with moly, until you see the boots swell (3-4pumps). Grease the arm bushings with the same grease until you see grease pushing out from the EZ Lube ports.' in their website... Is there alternative to this where I don't have to deal with the greasy process like the OEM?

Thank you so much in advance! I've been doing lots of research, watching videos and lots of calls. Im still not 100% sure about which direction to go. Your advice is highly appreciated.
Hey bud

Yes, those parts will do what you're looking for.

Dobinsons UCA's require zero maintenance, and they're the ones I sell the most, so I strongly recommend them.
4Runner UCA's by Dobinsons, also suit GX470 GX460, FJ Cruiser

2" of rear lift should also have the longer sway bar links installed.
Dobinsons Adjustable 4Runner Sway bar Links | Toyota Lexus - Exit Offroad
 
Hey bud

Yes, those parts will do what you're looking for.

Dobinsons UCA's require zero maintenance, and they're the ones I sell the most, so I strongly recommend them.
4Runner UCA's by Dobinsons, also suit GX470 GX460, FJ Cruiser

2" of rear lift should also have the longer sway bar links installed.
Dobinsons Adjustable 4Runner Sway bar Links | Toyota Lexus - Exit Offroad

Thank you for the reply!
What are the absolute risks of going with stock sway bar links in the back? Is it a must? or one of those things where it is safe to have? Like the front UCA's... Many people lift the front for around 2" to 2.5" and use OEM UCA.

And how long would it take to get them to Michigan once ordered?

Thanks in advance
 
Thank you for the reply!
What are the absolute risks of going with stock sway bar links in the back? Is it a must? or one of those things where it is safe to have? Like the front UCA's... Many people lift the front for around 2" to 2.5" and use OEM UCA.

And how long would it take to get them to Michigan once ordered?

Thanks in advance
The stock links aren't long enough to sit the sway bar back to a proper working angle, so the rear end gets bound up, it's tighter when it's like that.

The front end won't have the proper alignment that these Toyota's should have when lifted, if you only run stock UCA's. People don't know what they're missing out on if they don't make the correct geometry changes.

Shipping is only 3 days or so from Florida. It depends what you order and if i has to get assembled prior to shipping, as that will take extra time.
 
The stock links aren't long enough to sit the sway bar back to a proper working angle, so the rear end gets bound up, it's tighter when it's like that.

The front end won't have the proper alignment that these Toyota's should have when lifted, if you only run stock UCA's. People don't know what they're missing out on if they don't make the correct geometry changes.

Shipping is only 3 days or so from Florida. It depends what you order and if i has to get assembled prior to shipping, as that will take extra time.

Thank you Sir!

And one last question,

Bilstein Shocks are usually paired with Old Men Emu springs if you search them online as a kit... As I mentioned it in the earlier posts that Im going with Dobinson springs and you mentioned that it is a decent setup for what I need it for... Is there any other Brand you would recommend? I decided on Dobinsons because I was told that Old Men Emu sags after a while and Dobinsons are better of a choice for people in Michigan where they don't rust and they are robust springs. Also, not sagging. Would you agree with that? what's your opinion/recommendation/advice?

Thank you
 
Thank you Sir!

And one last question,

Bilstein Shocks are usually paired with Old Men Emu springs if you search them online as a kit... As I mentioned it in the earlier posts that Im going with Dobinson springs and you mentioned that it is a decent setup for what I need it for... Is there any other Brand you would recommend? I decided on Dobinsons because I was told that Old Men Emu sags after a while and Dobinsons are better of a choice for people in Michigan where they don't rust and they are robust springs. Also, not sagging. Would you agree with that? what's your opinion/recommendation/advice?

Thank you
People have been using all sorts of brands of coils on 5100s for years. Ome has discontinued most of their coils so they're not an option anymore to run with them.

I prefer Dobinsons shocks for ride comfort in the street over 5100s. Many people on the forum have confirmed that in the past as well.

Any coils have a chance of rusting. It all comes down to how clean the vehicle is kept and if rust preventative sprays are used as well
 
Hi Mike,

I watched your video on adjusting the IMS coil seat height. Very helpful.

For the case where you're doing the initial installation and thread cleaning is not needed to make a minor adjustment, do you expect the shock would need to be removed or springs compressed to make the adjustment?

I'm trying to gauge the level difficulty to tackle this part if I were to go with IMS shocks.

Thanks

Bill
 
Hi Mike,

I watched your video on adjusting the IMS coil seat height. Very helpful.

For the case where you're doing the initial installation and thread cleaning is not needed to make a minor adjustment, do you expect the shock would need to be removed or springs compressed to make the adjustment?

I'm trying to gauge the level difficulty to tackle this part if I were to go with IMS shocks.

Thanks

Bill

It is hard to turn them with spring pressure on them, so it's best to compress the spring to make adjustments
 
Thanks for the summary!!

No, I won't be carrying his parts, as his focus is direct to consumer (there's no margin in it for us), plus he offers 1000 colors or something. LOL

Wait for the suspension to settle some more then do another KDSS reset. WIth the spacers you have, it should settle out more then.

By doing another KDSS reset, do you mean opening the shutter valves as shown in your video here and then rocking the vehicle and then closing the shutter valves?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=mOAr9IVoGZI
 
Thank you Sir!

And one last question,

Bilstein Shocks are usually paired with Old Men Emu springs if you search them online as a kit... As I mentioned it in the earlier posts that Im going with Dobinson springs and you mentioned that it is a decent setup for what I need it for... Is there any other Brand you would recommend? I decided on Dobinsons because I was told that Old Men Emu sags after a while and Dobinsons are better of a choice for people in Michigan where they don't rust and they are robust springs. Also, not sagging. Would you agree with that? what's your opinion/recommendation/advice?

Thank you

Mike, I just purchased Upper strut mounts from your site and those will be the last pieces of my kit. I have a Toyota certified technician who will install the kit with me! However, I will not be able to do the alignment same day. In fact, I will have to wait 3 days to do it. Is it ok to drive it home super slow, park it for 3 days and drive it to the alignment center slowly again? do you see a major problem doing that?

I also have another option where this person is also at Toyota and he will install it at the shop after hours but he wants me to leave the car there for 3 days or more but he will do the alignment as soon as he installs the lift kit. I don't want to leave my car for 3 or more days in the shop because,
A) I want to know and see how the kit is installed
B) I will need to rent while the car is in the shop and it will cost me +$200 extra.

What do you think? is it ok to install it with the first guy and then do the alignment in another time frame?
 
Mike, I just purchased Upper strut mounts from your site and those will be the last pieces of my kit. I have a Toyota certified technician who will install the kit with me! However, I will not be able to do the alignment same day. In fact, I will have to wait 3 days to do it. Is it ok to drive it home super slow, park it for 3 days and drive it to the alignment center slowly again? do you see a major problem doing that?

I also have another option where this person is also at Toyota and he will install it at the shop after hours but he wants me to leave the car there for 3 days or more but he will do the alignment as soon as he installs the lift kit. I don't want to leave my car for 3 or more days in the shop because,
A) I want to know and see how the kit is installed
B) I will need to rent while the car is in the shop and it will cost me +$200 extra.

What do you think? is it ok to install it with the first guy and then do the alignment in another time frame?
Yeah, it will feel pretty weird to drive it without a new alignment. Just take it easy and you'll be fine. Many people that do home installs don't get an alignment right away due to scheduling issues. It's not worth renting a car over.
 
Yeah, it will feel pretty weird to drive it without a new alignment. Just take it easy and you'll be fine. Many people that do home installs don't get an alignment right away due to scheduling issues. It's not worth renting a car over.

Mike, Im running some problems and I had a horrible day today. I ordered all the parts last week and was super excited to put it together but then I realized my Dobinson (C59-302) didn't like compressing it too much. I do not know if I did it wrong or not but I will try to explain this better with pictures.

what you see here is my Bilstein5100 at the highest groove setting and when I tried to compress it to fit, it is technically impossible because it doesnt compress enough. even if it did, there wouldn't be any room for it to bounce.

1)if I go to the lowest groove setting in Bilstein 5100, would Dobinson spring (C59-302) fit and still give 2.5" lift in the front?
2)or should I go at the highest groove setting (like it is in the picture) on Bilstein 5100 and use the stock springs since it is much shorter than the Dobinsons?
3)or maybe you tell me where did I make the mistake?

I really don't want to send return the parts to them and wait for a refund or change withe something else etc. if I absolutely have to. Do you think there are ways I can make this setup work?

Kindly appreciate your help.:sobbing:
 

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Mike, Im running some problems and I had a horrible day today. I ordered all the parts last week and was super excited to put it together but then I realized my Dobinson (C59-302) didn't like compressing it too much. I do not know if I did it wrong or not but I will try to explain this better with pictures.

what you see here is my Bilstein5100 at the highest groove setting and when I tried to compress it to fit, it is technically impossible because it doesnt compress enough. even if it did, there wouldn't be any room for it to bounce.

1)if I go to the lowest groove setting in Bilstein 5100, would Dobinson spring (C59-302) fit and still give 2.5" lift in the front?
2)or should I go at the highest groove setting (like it is in the picture) on Bilstein 5100 and use the stock springs since it is much shorter than the Dobinsons?
3)or maybe you tell me where did I make the mistake?

I really don't want to send return the parts to them and wait for a refund or change withe something else etc. if I absolutely have to. Do you think there are ways I can make this setup work?

Kindly appreciate your help.:sobbing:


I forgot the last picture sorry. here it is
 

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Mike, Im running some problems and I had a horrible day today. I ordered all the parts last week and was super excited to put it together but then I realized my Dobinson (C59-302) didn't like compressing it too much. I do not know if I did it wrong or not but I will try to explain this better with pictures.

what you see here is my Bilstein5100 at the highest groove setting and when I tried to compress it to fit, it is technically impossible because it doesnt compress enough. even if it did, there wouldn't be any room for it to bounce.

1)if I go to the lowest groove setting in Bilstein 5100, would Dobinson spring (C59-302) fit and still give 2.5" lift in the front?
2)or should I go at the highest groove setting (like it is in the picture) on Bilstein 5100 and use the stock springs since it is much shorter than the Dobinsons?
3)or maybe you tell me where did I make the mistake?

I really don't want to send return the parts to them and wait for a refund or change withe something else etc. if I absolutely have to. Do you think there are ways I can make this setup work?

Kindly appreciate your help.:sobbing:
Use the lowest perch. You're not thinking about it properly. You either preload stock coils or use lifted coils with no preload
 

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