theesotericone
New member
Did you check the 7.5A Alt-S fuse at the fuse box under the hood? That's the stator wire connection. Without that the alt won't get excited and will stay at resting voltage.
Doc's CS144 alternator upgrade.
- Thread starter Doc2012
- Start date
Did you check the 7.5A Alt-S fuse at the fuse box under the hood? That's the stator wire connection. Without that the alt won't get excited and will stay at resting voltage.
Scramble
New member
I had the battery light come on once in 17 years, it was the alternator. Forget the low quality GM battery. Get a high amp rebuilt Denso from Quality Power, bolts right in. No mods or harness.
Toyota 4Runner High Output Alternators
I painted mine with POR 15 caliper paint.
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BrianSD_42
New member
Thanks for the link. If I have to replace mine I'll first use the spare alternator I have sitting in the garage and if that doesn't work I"ll consider investing in the high output rebuild ALT.
MACT4R
Senior Member
Second to QP for high output. I'm Gonna send my oem alt to have it rebuilt to 160amp for the dual battery. My buddy got the one for 4.0L for his dual battery set up and works great running fridge, 12v plug and other accessories.
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For future reference, this specific caddy alt swap will not work on a 86-95 3.4 swap 4runner/truck. On those trucks the dipstick is moved to right behind the stock alt. I spent a few hours grinding the mounting flanges on the cs144 and bending the dipstick and by the time you clear the dipstick the pulley is almost a 1/4" further out and you cant align the belt. I might look into skinnier cooling vane and then maybe i can press the pulley inwards a little.
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Dylanseagraves
New member
Did this upgrade today, did the 3 washers for the spacer (still a tiny tiny gap, could be my problem?), but I noticed everyone did theirs at the exit of the bolt upon the alternator, is this imperative? Only asking because I have a nasty belt squeal, I was able to make the OG alternator belt work (non SC) should I switch to the P/S belt and would that solve the problem? Just curious and don't want a snapped belt
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
You might need a spacer behind the pulley on your alternator. I did the same thing and that stopped the squeal. Also make sure your adjuster bolt is tight.
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...hare_fid=10034&share_type=t&share_pid=1883666
This post has the clearest picture on exactly where the spacer goes. The goal is to keep the alternator from sliding back and forth in that space so it doesn't create more (or varying) tension on the belt.
If you have a squeal, check the belt tension; it should only have a 1/4 inch deflection possible or it's too loose.
If it's tight enough and there's still squealing, the pulley is the next suspect. Could be misaligned, bad bearing, etc.
Edit: Might also try moving the belt into a different set of grooves on the pulley if it's spaced right already. Could just be the slightest angle off making the difference.
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Dylanseagraves
New member
Thanks for the info guys, definitely was heading both directions. I noticed as I backed off the tensioner bolt it did merit less squealing. The spacer is definitely the next target behind the pulley. And I suppose moving the washers shouldn't prove too troublesome. Thank you for the responses!
Dylanseagraves
New member
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
Nope but it's not a nut that goes behind the pulley. They make a spacer for alternators that slip behind the pulley when you take it off then you tighten the nut down that's in front of the pulley. I used a 1/4" spacer.
Dylanseagraves
New member
Yeah, was just maybe thinking of trying to pick up some washers and jb welding them together if I knew the proper pitch or size could try it out. Guess it'll be trial and error
MN4runnerman
Senior Member
Oh I see what you meant. I think it's either 9/16 or 3/4.
I’m in need of a new alternator. I had few issues where I had to tap the alternator with a hammer lol. Replaced the brushes. Now the pulley is screaming. I could replace the pulley but I think I need to retire the oem alternator. It’s tired lol. With that said.
The CS 144, do you need a different belt ? Or does the stock belt work with this set up, because I read somewhere that you need a different belt. I did not see if the OP kept the stock or belt or not.
Also, what do you mean OP when you said ,”You need to do one of two things with the post connector. You can either drill it out and bend the tabs, or cut it off and put a different connector on there.”
Do you have to modify the tensioning bolt? Like the bolt that puts tension on the belt ?
And like [MENTION=156518]Trojan4x4[/MENTION] said. What’s the difference between the alternator with heated windshield and the one without.
The CS 144, do you need a different belt ? Or does the stock belt work with this set up, because I read somewhere that you need a different belt. I did not see if the OP kept the stock or belt or not.
Also, what do you mean OP when you said ,”You need to do one of two things with the post connector. You can either drill it out and bend the tabs, or cut it off and put a different connector on there.”
Do you have to modify the tensioning bolt? Like the bolt that puts tension on the belt ?
And like [MENTION=156518]Trojan4x4[/MENTION] said. What’s the difference between the alternator with heated windshield and the one without.
Well, since I actually went trough the whole thread.
The stock belt can work if you manage to put it on. Seems like people get the power steering belt. And that works perfectly. Also one of the comments said the alternator without the heated windshield worked. So that also clears up that.
As far as the pulley. Some people get a squeak.
Who here has this mod. And has been running it without issue for a long time. And off roading. Such as in, going through water, mud...
Does this upgrade really add a extra strain on the engine ?
The stock belt can work if you manage to put it on. Seems like people get the power steering belt. And that works perfectly. Also one of the comments said the alternator without the heated windshield worked. So that also clears up that.
As far as the pulley. Some people get a squeak.
Who here has this mod. And has been running it without issue for a long time. And off roading. Such as in, going through water, mud...
Does this upgrade really add a extra strain on the engine ?
Doc2012
Senior Member
Not a single issue at all. Been mudding a few times.
More amperage.
Kept the stock belt. No issues.
The metal eye that goes on to the stud of the alternator is bigger on the CS144 than the Toyota one. It needs to be enlarged to go over the stud.
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Thanks for your reply.
I just ordered this alternator. From advanced auto parts. For $118 after 30%.
Both alternators with and without heated windshield said same amperage if I recall.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c...FsNn9o4qme3EOpngIm+nexjbRTCtN7/mTKp8SSdsRwg==
The one without is actually more money.
I just ordered this alternator. From advanced auto parts. For $118 after 30%.
Both alternators with and without heated windshield said same amperage if I recall.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c...FsNn9o4qme3EOpngIm+nexjbRTCtN7/mTKp8SSdsRwg==
The one without is actually more money.
HM1, I read somewhere the pulley was swapped with the stock alt's pulley in order to retain the stock belt. Cant locate that info again now. Should this be done? I had the alt shop I got the rebuild stuff from remove the CS144 pulley. That was a bit of a PITA and I'm not looking forward to putting that back together.
BTW people, rebuilding the alt is very easy to do. Think of it as adult legos. By far much cheaper and more reliable than buying a reman full of low quality china junk or a new (probably china) one. Got a Delco from pull a part off a 93 Eldorado w/o a heated windshield (maybe?) ($20), a new regulator, brushes n springs and rectifier ($35). Takes 30 minutes to rebuild. Make sure you mark the case halves before you separate it. Also, you dont need a caddy alt specifically. Any late model CS144 will do. Just reclock it to the orientation of the caddys. 4 8mm bolts allow this.
edit to add: i read the stock belt and cs144 pulley work with a supercharged set up, not the n/a.
BTW people, rebuilding the alt is very easy to do. Think of it as adult legos. By far much cheaper and more reliable than buying a reman full of low quality china junk or a new (probably china) one. Got a Delco from pull a part off a 93 Eldorado w/o a heated windshield (maybe?) ($20), a new regulator, brushes n springs and rectifier ($35). Takes 30 minutes to rebuild. Make sure you mark the case halves before you separate it. Also, you dont need a caddy alt specifically. Any late model CS144 will do. Just reclock it to the orientation of the caddys. 4 8mm bolts allow this.
edit to add: i read the stock belt and cs144 pulley work with a supercharged set up, not the n/a.
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