Doc's CS144 alternator upgrade.

I feel really dumb asking this, but I cannot figure out how to remove the old alternator belt in order to replace it with the longer power steering belt. I could easily cut it out, though that doesn't help me figure out how to route the new one in

I shouldn't need to remove any other belts, correct? I've got everything bolted in and ready to be tightened down - just need to figure out this last step.
 
I feel really dumb asking this, but I cannot figure out how to remove the old alternator belt in order to replace it with the longer power steering belt. I could easily cut it out, though that doesn't help me figure out how to route the new one in

I shouldn't need to remove any other belts, correct? I've got everything bolted in and ready to be tightened down - just need to figure out this last step.

you'll have to take the the ps belt and the ac belt off to remove the alternate belt off.

How to: Change Drive Belts 3.4 L 5VZ-FE - YotaTech Forums
 
Heated Windshield Option Absolutely Necessary?

I'd rather not go reman, but the new with the windshield heater is almost twice the price at autozone. I can get a new without the windshield heater for a lot less at Advance, only $40 more than a reman. The max amps appear be the same on both models at 140. Can anyone give me a definitive on why the heated windshield option is specified? Is there a difference in idle amps that I'm not seeing listed?
 
Went with a new 95' Cadillac Deville CS-144 AC Delco off rockauto.com with the heated windhshield and even with next day fedex air it was far less than a new one at the local auto parts stores.
 
Little update. Been running this set up for while now. First two acdelco alternators took a crap on me. But we’re warrantied. 3rd one has been running strong. Been through serious water and mud. Running it with harness adapter and big 3.
 
Little update. Been running this set up for while now. First two acdelco alternators took a crap on me. But we’re warrantied. 3rd one has been running strong. Been through serious water and mud. Running it with harness adapter and big 3.

This is what I was looking for. AC Delco alternator just failed on me too, was seeing if others had this experience and that's been confirmed. Only been in use for 12 months but under warranty at least.

Did your alternator start to whine when it failed? I've got a weird whine driving at light throttle and it started just as my alternator voltage started dropping. Seems like too much of a coincidence.
 
This is what I was looking for. AC Delco alternator just failed on me too, was seeing if others had this experience and that's been confirmed. Only been in use for 12 months but under warranty at least.



Did your alternator start to whine when it failed? I've got a weird whine driving at light throttle and it started just as my alternator voltage started dropping. Seems like too much of a coincidence.



That Whine is synonymous with a failed rectifier. AKA a bad Diode or two. You could just replace the rectifier assembly or get another ALT. The reman shops only repair what failed when they repair a core charge and put the reman sticker on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been browsing these forums since I got my 02 over a year ago, but my first time posting. So I just replaced my alternator and the truck was running pretty good before, just some noise from one of the bearings in the alternator. Problem is, now, the car is idling really low as if it's going to stall. It almost seems like it's not getting enough power.

Any ideas on what might be the problem?
 
Been browsing these forums since I got my 02 over a year ago, but my first time posting. So I just replaced my alternator and the truck was running pretty good before, just some noise from one of the bearings in the alternator. Problem is, now, the car is idling really low as if it's going to stall. It almost seems like it's not getting enough power.

Any ideas on what might be the problem?

That could be part of it. If you have a multimeter you can measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine on, should be in the high 13's or low 14's. If not then yes there's a problem with the charging system.

You can also check the voltage via a bluetooth OBD-II reader for cheap. Due to voltage drop it's usually around 13.0V in the cabin.
 
That could be part of it. If you have a multimeter you can measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine on, should be in the high 13's or low 14's. If not then yes there's a problem with the charging system.

You can also check the voltage via a bluetooth OBD-II reader for cheap. Due to voltage drop it's usually around 13.0V in the cabin.

I checked it with a bluetooth OBD-II reader and OBD Fusion and it was reading between 11.6-11.7 which is definitely lower than you said. What would you suggest for next steps? Getting the battery and alternator checked?
 
I checked it with a bluetooth OBD-II reader and OBD Fusion and it was reading between 11.6-11.7 which is definitely lower than you said. What would you suggest for next steps? Getting the battery and alternator checked?


Its not charging if your seeing 11volts. Maybe you messed up the wiring? Check the connectors clicked and charge wire is solid.
 
I checked it with a bluetooth OBD-II reader and OBD Fusion and it was reading between 11.6-11.7 which is definitely lower than you said. What would you suggest for next steps? Getting the battery and alternator checked?

Your battery is draining every time you drive it so make sure you charge it overnight every day or the battery will go bad (if it hasn't already). Your alternator is shot or like calimobber said there's a wiring problem or fuse problem.
 
Does anyone know if there is a "longer" tensioner bolt for the alternator available?

My reason for asking is because I have changed the alternator to the CS144 and I am about to put in a longer belt to reach the alternator.. however the bolt head (nut) is missing on the tensioner bolt.. so it maybe easier for me to just put in a longer tensioner bolt instead of putting in a longer belt...
not sure how it held up so long like that without the bolt head (nut)... perhaps the threads caught the bracket that its supposed to rest in..

(perhaps this is why about a year ago I used to hear squeeling at times, sometimes when going through a big puddle sometimes just for no apparant reason.. it went away after a while so didnt think much of it....)
 
Does anyone know if there is a "longer" tensioner bolt for the alternator available?



My reason for asking is because I have changed the alternator to the CS144 and I am about to put in a longer belt to reach the alternator.. however the bolt head (nut) is missing on the tensioner bolt.. so it maybe easier for me to just put in a longer tensioner bolt instead of putting in a longer belt...

not sure how it held up so long like that without the bolt head (nut)... perhaps the threads caught the bracket that its supposed to rest in..



(perhaps this is why about a year ago I used to hear squeeling at times, sometimes when going through a big puddle sometimes just for no apparant reason.. it went away after a while so didnt think much of it....)



If you can get it out of the bracket, take it to Home Depot, Lowe’s, fastenal, etc etc, and get one.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you can get it out of the bracket, take it to Home Depot, Lowe’s, fastenal, etc etc, and get one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you for the reply
yeah i tried matching it up however here in Canada at the local auto parts store they didnt carry a threaded bolt that long.. they told me it was an M8 bolt incase anyone else wanted to know..

So I went to the junk yard today and picked up a used complete tensioner bolt with the box and perpendicular bolt in it.. mounted it up and voila sat at a 14.8 volts steady at idle and with 650 watt stereo system cranked, 42' and 32' light bar, 6 led cubes, AC on, led headlights with high beams on, whipers going full. and it sat steady at 14.8

however when I drove it dropped to 14.6 and after a full throttle rev my left signal went out for 20 mins then came back on.. tested with again with full throttle all lights on and stereo going and it sat steady at 14.5 to 14.6 volts (dropped to 13.1 for a split second then shot back up)
tested it idling and driving for about 2 hours and everything seems to be great!

was even able to use the stock alt belt (my truck is non supercharger as well)

I may change to longer belt when it comes time to change PS or AC or alt belt in near future as the alternator is larger and does rub against a hose (I think it is the oil coolant hose)

other than that this is an excellent mod

MUCH thanks to DOC. Many people have probably benefited from this thread and probably many more to come
lots of good karma for DOC

Thank you sir !
 
Just wondering if anyone was able to source the power adapter cable (between the cs144 alternator and the toyota harness) at one of the big chain stores? Would like to get this alternator installed this week. In the Phoenix area if anyone knows of another local place to get one.

Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20200819_093348.jpg
    IMG_20200819_093348.jpg
    110 KB · Views: 870
  • IMG_20200819_093331.jpg
    IMG_20200819_093331.jpg
    118.9 KB · Views: 836
Last edited:
For the life of me, I can't this cs144 to fit in my 98 4run! Did you guys have to do anything to the lower bracket or the shield that's just under the valve cover? uhg!

this is the one I bought: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-premium-remanufactured-alternator-7966-2a/5210984-P

feedback MUCH appreciated.

You will need to loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and slide it out in the bracket as far as it will go away from the engine. I've had to loosen the bracket itself a few times too just to get it into place. It's a tight fit for sure.
 
You will need to loosen the alternator adjusting bolt and slide it out in the bracket as far as it will go away from the engine. I've had to loosen the bracket itself a few times too just to get it into place. It's a tight fit for sure.
My issue was the lower bracket was in the way. I loosened it and let it drop lower. I now have the alternator aligned w/ the top through-bolt. Anticipating a fit to get the stock belt on. Hoping the bottom of the alternator lines up w/ the lower bracket.

APPRECIATE the feedback. Thank you!

UPDATE: Yup! "A fit" was had. I'm now well versed in 40 swear words in 15sec without repeating one. Do yourself a favor if you do this upgrade! Buy a power steering belt. You don't have to use it...but I'm betting most will appreciate having it. Trying to get the regular alternator belt on, despite maximum movement, was impossible for me by hand. I would have had to pry it on, and I didn't want to put that much strain on the pulley. Trust me. If you don't use it, you can return it.

Now, my truck was cold when I started it, but it's putting out 15.2v at idle! It's dropped to about 15.1v at the moment. Is that ok? The best I ever got from the original oem alternator was about 14.2v (as of late), but it would quickly drop to 13.6v when the engine warmed up.
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,078
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top