Kryptoroxx
New member
Hey its looking good! I think the diff drop is all you really need. The extended brake line in the rear would be prudent and Panhard relocation bracket but neither are absolutely necessary until you go taller.
Dog Tired build thread
- Thread starter Dog Tired
- Start date
I know I can adjust the 5100s up front but are spacers the way to go with the back?
Planning on finishing the 2" and seeing how I like it. Likely won't need more but that's not what it's about sometimes.
Kryptoroxx
New member
I run 2" and I'm happy with it personally.
As far as the spacer goes I am not a huge fan of those. If you decide to go 3 it would be better in my eyes to get the spring for it. A spacer is definitely an easier solution though. When I get around to my shocks I will have to fab a spring retainer since they would allow the spring to fall out at droop. 3 inch springs don't have that problem.
As far as the spacer goes I am not a huge fan of those. If you decide to go 3 it would be better in my eyes to get the spring for it. A spacer is definitely an easier solution though. When I get around to my shocks I will have to fab a spring retainer since they would allow the spring to fall out at droop. 3 inch springs don't have that problem.
Lift arrived and I started yesterday. More work than I thought it would be with my rust situation. Stripped the first front lower strut bolt to come out so that got ordered today from Toyota. Couldn't find one at any lowes or advance auto type place. Working the front sway bar bushings in as I go too. Pretty easy for that stuff.
Sort of rear spring comparison. There really wasn't a lot of difference between stock height and OME 906s.
The rest of the rear was a beast. Took much more time than planned with rust and tight spaces. Speedy's lift install make it look much easier than it is. Be ready for this to take more time than you think if you're looking at your first lift or a heavy rust situation.
I ended up sawzalling both rear struts off at the top bushing mount that I could access from lack of ability to turn the top nuts. No amount of strap wrench or vice grips helped. Getting the new ones in required a wench and Allen wench combo in the very confined space where Toyota hid the top nut mount. I'll just say that those without patience need to just save your money and let someone else be frustrated by this!
The rest of the rear was a beast. Took much more time than planned with rust and tight spaces. Speedy's lift install make it look much easier than it is. Be ready for this to take more time than you think if you're looking at your first lift or a heavy rust situation.
I ended up sawzalling both rear struts off at the top bushing mount that I could access from lack of ability to turn the top nuts. No amount of strap wrench or vice grips helped. Getting the new ones in required a wench and Allen wench combo in the very confined space where Toyota hid the top nut mount. I'll just say that those without patience need to just save your money and let someone else be frustrated by this!
Lift complete!
So it took nearly a week between broken stuff and waiting on parts. Really, all I broke was a sway bar end link top end when attempting to remove the top nut and then there was a stripped front strut lower mounting bolt.
Below are before and after profile pictures.
Before
After
URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/dogtired2/media/image.jpg1_zpsywqofpkl.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Lessons learned:
-Bushings for sway bars are very easy to do along the way with this lift install.
-Disconecting the front sway bar end links are very required to achieve the droop needed to get the bilsteins and tundra springs in the front. This isn't a "might need" situation. Much easier with them disconnected and Id say you ris bend the sway bar if you don't.
-Plan for this to take more time than you originally think.
-All jack work can be done with the stock jack provided under the rear passenger seat but using an aftermarket is probably more stable. My. Aftermarket height wasn't enough to get the job done once the front left and rear were in.
-Torquing to stock specs helped relieve a bit of anxiety I had with the various parts. You can't perfectly torque everything but it sure did help.
So it took nearly a week between broken stuff and waiting on parts. Really, all I broke was a sway bar end link top end when attempting to remove the top nut and then there was a stripped front strut lower mounting bolt.
Below are before and after profile pictures.
Before
After
URL=http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/dogtired2/media/image.jpg1_zpsywqofpkl.jpg.html]
Lessons learned:
-Bushings for sway bars are very easy to do along the way with this lift install.
-Disconecting the front sway bar end links are very required to achieve the droop needed to get the bilsteins and tundra springs in the front. This isn't a "might need" situation. Much easier with them disconnected and Id say you ris bend the sway bar if you don't.
-Plan for this to take more time than you originally think.
-All jack work can be done with the stock jack provided under the rear passenger seat but using an aftermarket is probably more stable. My. Aftermarket height wasn't enough to get the job done once the front left and rear were in.
-Torquing to stock specs helped relieve a bit of anxiety I had with the various parts. You can't perfectly torque everything but it sure did help.
Lift measurements
Unner, below are all measurements from center hub to edge of faring on a level driveway.
Front driver side 22"
Rear driver side 21.5"
Rear passenger 22"
Front passenger 22"
Not sure what the deal is with the drivers side rear. There's no significant weight other than a full gas tank, which might make sense. I made sure to use the taller OME 906 that came from wheelers on that side but is it possible to install those backwards? There was no reference in the purchase process and nothing in the package, I just compared the. Out of the box and made a decision.
The ride is markedly different and comfortable. Recovery from potholes and speed bumps is much more controlled feeling and much less harsh on the passenger area, as well as audible noise. It is clearly taller from the perspective of a driver and I guess I'd recommend it to others updating from a stock setup though it certainly isn't the cheapest. The good news is that it can be done, with a bit of flexibility in man hours and patience. I'm a fan thus far, and ready to get her off road and put it through its paces.
Stilllllll can't decide that I want the running boards off. I think it looks just fine but know that it helps with clearance, just not sure that I really need it at the end of the day. With about 15" of clearance I just can't see a non-dedicated off road vehicle needing an extra 4-6". That's just me, but I'm happy to hear what others think.
Unner, below are all measurements from center hub to edge of faring on a level driveway.
Front driver side 22"
Rear driver side 21.5"
Rear passenger 22"
Front passenger 22"
Not sure what the deal is with the drivers side rear. There's no significant weight other than a full gas tank, which might make sense. I made sure to use the taller OME 906 that came from wheelers on that side but is it possible to install those backwards? There was no reference in the purchase process and nothing in the package, I just compared the. Out of the box and made a decision.
The ride is markedly different and comfortable. Recovery from potholes and speed bumps is much more controlled feeling and much less harsh on the passenger area, as well as audible noise. It is clearly taller from the perspective of a driver and I guess I'd recommend it to others updating from a stock setup though it certainly isn't the cheapest. The good news is that it can be done, with a bit of flexibility in man hours and patience. I'm a fan thus far, and ready to get her off road and put it through its paces.
Stilllllll can't decide that I want the running boards off. I think it looks just fine but know that it helps with clearance, just not sure that I really need it at the end of the day. With about 15" of clearance I just can't see a non-dedicated off road vehicle needing an extra 4-6". That's just me, but I'm happy to hear what others think.
Last edited:
RAZsRunner
New member
I vote to remove. Adds another couple inches "lift" visually.
When are you getting your tires mounted up? Would love to see them ready to go
When are you getting your tires mounted up? Would love to see them ready to go
