catfishbirddog
New member
I've seen pictures of this job before and it's one my car needs but there is ZERO chance I'm doing it. I lose bolts and break stuff taking apart my dash for head unit and light replacement.
Bravo sir.
Done! A/C Evaporator Teardown - OMG is Right!
- Thread starter ghs215
- Start date
I've seen pictures of this job before and it's one my car needs but there is ZERO chance I'm doing it. I lose bolts and break stuff taking apart my dash for head unit and light replacement.
Bravo sir.
03v8raleigh
New member
Not to sidetrack your thread too much, but quick question for you people that are experienced with the AC issues:
I just tried using my AC for I think the first time since purchasing it last fall, and the AC light just blinked at me and didn't produce any cool air. I read that it may just be a $27 relay I need to replace, is this generally what my symptoms mean? Or what might the signs be that I would have to replace all this expensive mess?
I just tried using my AC for I think the first time since purchasing it last fall, and the AC light just blinked at me and didn't produce any cool air. I read that it may just be a $27 relay I need to replace, is this generally what my symptoms mean? Or what might the signs be that I would have to replace all this expensive mess?
simple
Senior Member
I think maybe you can swap your horn relay to see if it fixes it. If it is, then you can buy the new relay
Check the FSM.
Blinking of A/C indicator - Compressor lock sensor circuit - AC-42
This sensor sends 4 pulses par engine revolution to the A/C amplifier. If the ratio of the compressor speed divided by the engine speed is smaller than a predetermined value, the A/C amplifier turns the compressor off, and the indicator flashes at about 1 sec. intervals.
DTC No. 22
Detection Item
All conditions below are detected for 3 sec. or more.
(a) Engine speed: 450 rpm or more.
(b) Ratio between engine and compressor speed deviates 20 % or more in comparison with normal operation.
Trouble Area
Cooler compressor assembly
• Compressor drive belt
• Compressor lock sensor
• Harness or connector between compressor locksensor and A/C amplifier
• A/C amplifier
How does one pull the codes for the A/C system when the light is blinking? Is it through Techstream or by some other means?
simple
Senior Member
Is that something I can look at with it in the dash? I took a quick look, and nothing was overly apparent. Thanks
BlackWorksInc
New member
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/156776-replacing-re-circulation-actuator.html
Once you get the actuator off you can stick a mirror in there and look at the door and actuator and see if you just got lucky and popped it out of it's track or if you broke it (if it's broken, it's a bit more complicated to fix).
Does this mean the compressor is locked up and not spinning (broken inside?)
earthrealm
Senior Member
low gas could also cause the blinking light. throw some guages on the hi and loside ac ports, i bet they are very low. that also implies that you have a leak in the system
simple
Senior Member
You're the man! I popped it off its track. It was a PITA, but I got it back on with a butter knife. Thanks again
How did it go? :hungry:
bootheel
New member
Work has been a bear lately and didn't get to start last weekend. Hopefully will get loose tomorrow to get started. It's my DD, so I have to make sure I have enough of a time window to finish.
bunzz
New member
Did you buy the quick joint removal tool? If not, what'd you use to disconnect the lines for the evaporator?
FSM says it's this one: 09870-00015
bunzz
New member
Thanks! Last question, sorry!
What all did you end up buying for the replacement? I figure since I'm there I might as well replace what I can so I never have to go back again (hopefully)
I'm trying to get a list together. So far:
Evaporator with 2 o-rings
Expansion valve with 2 o-rings on the tube assembly side
Compressor oil for o-rings
Thanks for documenting this, all the photos are gonna be helpful and I'm definitely gonna go the label route!
Buy the o-ring kit, $10. Make sure you get the vehicle specific one.
If you have concerns about the servos going out, that's the time to replace them.
While you have the system apart, change all the a/c you can get to.
Replace the condenser, that's where the dryer is located.
Good luck and I'm here to answer any questions
If you have concerns about the servos going out, that's the time to replace them.
While you have the system apart, change all the a/c you can get to.
Replace the condenser, that's where the dryer is located.
Good luck and I'm here to answer any questions
When you replace the expansion valve, carefully peel off the black wrap stuff off the old and transfer it to the new.
I added 2-3 oz total a/c oil in the evap and condenser to ensure the system had enough oil.
Before you unscrew the evap case, KNOW what positions ALL the flap things are (take pictures) as they have to be put back in the exact location when reassembly.
After you put the new evap in and replaced the o-rings and condenser and BEFORE you put everything back together, put a vacuum on the system for an hour or so and then close it off to ensure you don't have any leaks for another hour. Drink a few beers to celebrate and prep for re-assembly.
To pull the heater hoses off, use the SST (super secrete tool) to run around the inside of the hose to loosen it up
Example:
Hose Removal Tool | ARES 70078 |Precision Curves Work Right on Hoses and Various Automotive Needs
by Ares
Link: http://a.co/bVCI3pW
I added 2-3 oz total a/c oil in the evap and condenser to ensure the system had enough oil.
Before you unscrew the evap case, KNOW what positions ALL the flap things are (take pictures) as they have to be put back in the exact location when reassembly.
After you put the new evap in and replaced the o-rings and condenser and BEFORE you put everything back together, put a vacuum on the system for an hour or so and then close it off to ensure you don't have any leaks for another hour. Drink a few beers to celebrate and prep for re-assembly.
To pull the heater hoses off, use the SST (super secrete tool) to run around the inside of the hose to loosen it up
Example:
Hose Removal Tool | ARES 70078 |Precision Curves Work Right on Hoses and Various Automotive Needs
by Ares
Link: http://a.co/bVCI3pW
bunzz
New member
Buy the o-ring kit, $10. Make sure you get the vehicle specific one.
If you have concerns about the servos going out, that's the time to replace them.
While you have the system apart, change all the a/c you can get to.
Replace the condenser, that's where the dryer is located.
Good luck and I'm here to answer any questions
Thanks again, I ordered the evap, expansion valve, and the o-rings. Cost about $345 with shipping from Village Toyota.
My condenser looks to be in good shape so I'm probably going to leave that intact. I had a shop inspect the car and they weren't able to find any leaks in the bay so they quoted me on the evap + expansion valve ($1100).
I'll see about renting a vacuum from autozone to test everything. When it came to the oil, did you just pour that in? I thought that was something the shops did when they charged the system.
Out of curiousity, did you replace the heater core?
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I would seriously think about at least replacing the dryer bag (within the condenser) which should be done anytime major A/C work is done. They are like $12 online.
I poured about 1.5 oz each in each component.
If you are not recharging it yourself, then the place that does it can inject it through an oil charge.
I poured about 1.5 oz each in each component.
If you are not recharging it yourself, then the place that does it can inject it through an oil charge.
