Door lock junction box relay repair?

[drallan]

I've got a 99 LTD 4wd and I'm pretty sure the lock relay is bad. My symptoms match what everyone else on here has seen. Doors unlock fine w/ buttons or fob, but don't do anything when I push lock. I can hear the relay clicking in the fuse panel by the left drivers side knee.

Has anyone repaired this part instead of just replacing? I've found one at a local junkyard for $150, but would rather not gamble on another 15 y/o part that might go out in a few months without at least trying to repair the one I've got. Worst case, I try to repair it and end up breaking it I just buy the used one and am back in business.

I've worked a soldering iron before and can figure that part out, but I'm not sure where to start or which relay it would be.

If anyone has one for sale that is less the $150 let me know.

Thanks,

 

[IBallEngineer]

I've got a 99 LTD 4wd and I'm pretty sure the lock relay is bad. My symptoms match what everyone else on here has seen. Doors unlock fine w/ buttons or fob, but don't do anything when I push lock. I can hear the relay clicking in the fuse panel by the left drivers side knee.

Has anyone repaired this part instead of just replacing? I've found one at a local junkyard for $150, but would rather not gamble on another 15 y/o part that might go out in a few months without at least trying to repair the one I've got. Worst case, I try to repair it and end up breaking it I just buy the used one and am back in business.

I've worked a soldering iron before and can figure that part out, but I'm not sure where to start or which relay it would be.

If anyone has one for sale that is less the $150 let me know.

Thanks,

I think $150 is very high for a used one. I think $50-$80 is fair. I've never tried to repair one, but it has a circuit board and is more of a electronic control unit than a "relay". I'm not saying it's not repairable, but I haven't even seen any documentation that would identify the integrated circuits.

:couch2:

 

[TheDurk]

Everything IBE said above I agree with. However, the lock only fail suggests to me there are things to do before settling on a bad Body ECU. A bad detection switch in one of the doors will block the Lock cycle, for example. I´d go through everything in the attached:

 

[drallan]

Thanks for the troubleshooting diagram. I might tackle it this weekend, however, none of the buttons work for locking the doors and they all unlock easily. So I don't think it is switch or motor related. And my symptoms seem to be nearly identical to everyone else who has ended up replacing the fuse box.

I have found a few on ebay for significantly less $50-70 range, but none for specifically a 99. Does anyone know if they are compatible across multiple years? Assuming all other options are the same i.e. engine size, 4x4.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Thanks for the troubleshooting diagram. I might tackle it this weekend, however, none of the buttons work for locking the doors and they all unlock easily. So I don't think it is switch or motor related. And my symptoms seem to be nearly identical to everyone else who has ended up replacing the fuse box.

I have found a few on ebay for significantly less $50-70 range, but none for specifically a 99. Does anyone know if they are compatible across multiple years? Assuming all other options are the same i.e. engine size, 4x4.

I know there are some big difference between the early and later 3rd gens, but I don't know the cutoff. Sorry!

 

[nissanh]

The box is bunch of relays and tons of wires. Just feel the relay that makes the noise when trying to lock and pull it out. Slowly open the relay cover and clean the contact points and put it back in. Sometimes, the contacts can get corroded and simple cleaning might be all it needs.

 

[TheDurk]

Thanks for the troubleshooting diagram. I might tackle it this weekend, however, none of the buttons work for locking the doors and they all unlock easily. So I don't think it is switch or motor related. And my symptoms seem to be nearly identical to everyone else who has ended up replacing the fuse box.

I have found a few on ebay for significantly less $50-70 range, but none for specifically a 99. Does anyone know if they are compatible across multiple years? Assuming all other options are the same i.e. engine size, 4x4.

Looks like the part is 82730-35260 for a ´99 Limited. This is specific to V6 cars with chipped keys, so basically Limiteds, including RWD´s, for ´99 and ´00 only. Earlier and later years have different p/n´s.

 

[awpsome]

I replaced mines of the same issue. Found one at a junkyard for $50.
I then took part my "junk" broken junction box and its a shit ton of circuits in there. No "physical" relay to take out and out in. Or at least from the few minutes I spent taking it part. Maybe there is more to it.
But yea try to find the same year and with the same options. I don't know to what extent and at what point you can just move fuses over if the one you are buying didn't have the same options. But I lucked out finding a near identical setup from another runner just like mines.
I did go through some older 3rd gens and the boxes are completely different.

 

[Delta's Runner]

I recently pulled one of these from a 98' and from a 2000. They are definitely different. The 98 has the PCB in a black box thats real tough to get off. The 2000 is all one color. The PCBs themselves are different as well.

 

[Delta's Runner]

The one from my 2000 4runner LTD has the orange connector. The one from the 2000 base (rwd) looks the same on the outside but the PCBs are different and so is the color of one of the connectors. The one from the 98 LTD quite a bit different. The PCB is contained within a small black box on the front of the unit.

The largest of the 5 relays is a TAIKO TB2-100P. I am pretty sure this is the guilty component. I can feel it trying to switch when I press the button.

In this thread, Dawgz went for the swap even though the models were slightly different. Similar situation that I am in. Havent decided If I should try replacing the relay or the entire thing.....

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/44772-power-locks-2.html

....to be continued.

 

[Delta's Runner]

Gunna give this a whirl....

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/205220-body-ecu-test-bad-does.html

 

[TeriToy]

2000 4Runner Limited Door Lock Junction Box

NEW MEMBER
This has been helpful info!
Anyone have a part number for this junction box?
Thanks

 

[sleepydad]

NEW MEMBER
This has been helpful info!
Anyone have a part number for this junction box?
Thanks

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2851271-post15.html

I used this one to fix my 2000 lim, I remember reading a forum someplace not here where a guy disassembled and fixed some cracked or broken solder points... to fix the locking issue.

 

[TorqueScrew]

Door lock BS blah blah blah

The one from my 2000 4runner LTD has the orange connector. The one from the 2000 base (rwd) looks the same on the outside but the PCBs are different and so is the color of one of the connectors. The one from the 98 LTD quite a bit different. The PCB is contained within a small black box on the front of the unit.

The largest of the 5 relays is a TAIKO TB2-100P. I am pretty sure this is the guilty component. I can feel it trying to switch when I press the button.

In this thread, Dawgz went for the swap even though the models were slightly different. Similar situation that I am in. Havent decided If I should try replacing the relay or the entire thing.....

Power Locks?

....to be continued.

Hello...new guy here...

regarding your post on the different PCB boards, and relay replacement to solve door lock issue etc. I understand folks who've replaced the TAIKO TB2-100P relay on the board with orange and white front plugs as you've shown.

My question is: Does anyone know which of the five relays (2 black, 3 white) is for power locks on the other board where BOTH front plugs are White?

Mine is doing all the same things others have indicated where replacing the whole fuse block (with PBC) solved the problem and i have both styles thru-hole relays on hand for repair. My best guess listening is the white one, "relay 3" as per print on PCB at the bottom of board. Does anyone know which relay is for the door locks?

thanks

 

[dross]

My '99 (~190K miles) Limited is now having the same problem. Prior to this I did replace the small electrical motor in all four door actuators. After reading multiple threads on this issue I removed the unit from the driver's side kick panel, disconnected and reconnected all the wire harnesses multiple times, then put it all back together. The locks started working again. Time will tell if the problem reappears. Cleaning the pins to remove any possible corrosion buildup would be a good idea.

 

[velocity]

I had the issue where my car would unlock with the remote but would not lock. After reading multiple postings pointing to the fuse/relay panel I bit the bullet and bought the replacement panel. It wasn’t cheap. I have a ‘99 limited and the panel was $450 cad. It took me about 1 hour to swap out and it wasn’t as hard as some say it was on this forum. Just check the new one and see how the clips lock in. The harness is short and tight so slowly release the clips from top to bottom to release the panel out. I would have finished faster but I dropped the top screw into the body of the car and it took me about 10 mins to remove trim to fish the screw back out

 

[GSPMOTORS]

where can I find a new Junction block

I am having same issue. I can unlock all the doors but can't lock them . the unlock switch works and the unlock FOB but the lock won't work on either. I tested all the doors and tried to lock them with the FOB the chime kicks in when each door is open. So the car realizes that the doors are shut. I guess I need to bite the bullet and get a new junction block

 

[DonJuan]

I have 2 3rd Gen 4Runners (2001,2002), both are limited 2wd. One has the “door lock issue” that requires a new fuse relay junction box. I have found several used ones on ebay, BUT…… the 2001 and 2002 have a unique box apparently (according to the OEM parts catalog).

When you take the fuse access panel off by your left leg (drivers side obviously) to see the part, there is a sticker on it under the front buss connection. BOTH OF MY 4Runners sticker end with “9061” being the last part of the numbers (ex: 1G26 - 0394 9061).

ALL of the ebay ones end with “9060” instead.
Does anybody know the difference between the “9060” and “9061” parts on these? I think all of the Limited’s have an engine immobilizer, so I don’t think that’s it.