IBallEngineer
New member
OK, so here is my first write up on something I think the forum needs. I'm starting this thread without the ability to give a final verdict on the entirety of it because the parts are in the mail, but I promise to update in due time.
So WHY do the door locks stop working on a hot day?
The consensus seems to be that the motors inside the door lock assembly start to go bad and start out failing in hot weather. Others have posted the link to IH8TMUD and ClubLexus about how they repair this on the FZJ80 and 100's but nothing definitive about what will work on a 3rd gen. My post will not be the ultimate solution, but it will go a long way toward clearing things up. I have been paying attention to the rare occasions when I would witness a failure. It is always the side of the vehicle getting the most sun, so usually I notice the failure when the driver's side is in the sun. For this reason I decided to carry out my experimenting on the driver's side rear, in case I really F'd something up I didn't want MY door not to work. So here goes. I am including the door panel removal for those who have never done it, advanced users please skip ahead.
LR Door panel before I start
Remove the screw in the middle of the inside door handle, and the two push clips on either end of the panel, push the center then pry on the outer to remove.
Pry up the arm rest and remove the two screws shown.
Pry the inside handle assy forward, toward the front of the door, then pull the front toward you.
Pry the lower part of the panel to separate the clips from the door, then lift the panel over the lock button. Then rotate the panel 90 degrees to allow the inside handle to slip inside.
Disconnect the window switch and the panel is off.
At this point you have to choose how to deal with the butyl tape holding the vapor barrier to the door. Some chose to cut it and then tape it back on, since it was a warm day, I chose to remove it intact, I used a plastic spatula and wore latex gloves. Pita, but worth it in the end. Be sure to disconnect the speaker wire so you can pull the harness through the vapor barrier.
Now to remove the lock assy.
Remove the plastic cover held on by two plastic push clips.
after removing the two long skinny rods(inside handle and inside lock rod) you need to deal with the yellow clip holding the outside handle rod. This can be a real B%$#, but if you place the leading edge of your brake adjusting spoon on the clip itself where the arrow is pointed it's a piece of cake. The picture shows the tool in the incorrect position, couldn't hold the camera when I had it correct.
Continued in next post
So WHY do the door locks stop working on a hot day?
The consensus seems to be that the motors inside the door lock assembly start to go bad and start out failing in hot weather. Others have posted the link to IH8TMUD and ClubLexus about how they repair this on the FZJ80 and 100's but nothing definitive about what will work on a 3rd gen. My post will not be the ultimate solution, but it will go a long way toward clearing things up. I have been paying attention to the rare occasions when I would witness a failure. It is always the side of the vehicle getting the most sun, so usually I notice the failure when the driver's side is in the sun. For this reason I decided to carry out my experimenting on the driver's side rear, in case I really F'd something up I didn't want MY door not to work. So here goes. I am including the door panel removal for those who have never done it, advanced users please skip ahead.
LR Door panel before I start
Remove the screw in the middle of the inside door handle, and the two push clips on either end of the panel, push the center then pry on the outer to remove.
Pry up the arm rest and remove the two screws shown.
Pry the inside handle assy forward, toward the front of the door, then pull the front toward you.
Pry the lower part of the panel to separate the clips from the door, then lift the panel over the lock button. Then rotate the panel 90 degrees to allow the inside handle to slip inside.
Disconnect the window switch and the panel is off.
At this point you have to choose how to deal with the butyl tape holding the vapor barrier to the door. Some chose to cut it and then tape it back on, since it was a warm day, I chose to remove it intact, I used a plastic spatula and wore latex gloves. Pita, but worth it in the end. Be sure to disconnect the speaker wire so you can pull the harness through the vapor barrier.
Now to remove the lock assy.
Remove the plastic cover held on by two plastic push clips.
after removing the two long skinny rods(inside handle and inside lock rod) you need to deal with the yellow clip holding the outside handle rod. This can be a real B%$#, but if you place the leading edge of your brake adjusting spoon on the clip itself where the arrow is pointed it's a piece of cake. The picture shows the tool in the incorrect position, couldn't hold the camera when I had it correct.
Continued in next post
eace:
I opened mine up to see the wear but didn't get out the multi-meter. 
