Door Lock Motor Replacement

[gtdan]

Are you sure those are OEM [MENTION=175871]gtdan[/MENTION]?

Not 100% sure, but Amazon lists the manufacturer as "Nichibo or Mabuchi". Mabuchi is OEM. I can only attest that it works and looks identical (although every other motor I've seen looks the same too).

I also wanted to order from Amazon so it would come Prime and I could get it done ASAP, since I'm having trouble programming a key fob and moving the lock manually wasn't helping. Plus, I only needed 1 as the driver's door was the only one giving me trouble. Believe me, you won't want to do this for more doors than you have to.

Good luck!

Dan

 

[habanero]

Awesome, I'm throwing both the ebay and amazon links in my how-to, thanks octanejunkie and gtdan.

The rear is easier to r/r than the front.

Four years ago I did one of each, the front left and rear right and they've been great ever since.
So far the other two are working fine.

 

[WhiskeyTango]

Anyone make a post on how to do the front?

I can’t see to figure out how to get the actuators out of the front doors.

 

[CookieJHWK20]

Yeah great write up, was looking for info on this. My 4th gen is starting to have little hiccups from time to time, so this is what I needed.

 

[stoney]

What is the part number for the plastic clip?

Anybody knows what is the part number and size for the black plastic clip in the attached photo? Where can I buy those in case it is broken.
Thanks,

--stoney

 

[stoney]

trick to disconnect motor power connector

I was trying to use a pocket screw driver to disconnect the power connector to the motor assembly. But even after I inserted the pocket screw driver inside the space, it is still very tight to be disconnected. Any trick here?
Thanks,

--stoney

 

[mesooohoppy]

hello all, first post and i figured it would be better to keep my information contained in this thread as it looks like it hasnt been asked yet.

i just bought a 99 limited last week. once i started driving it, i immediately noticed that the drivers door doesnt unlock when it gets hot. i did a quick search and found this thread.

im not great with electronics, so i was thinking about just buying the whole unit itself:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7588108&cc=1357455&jsn=1098
(can be found under body>door lock actuator)

or OEM:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-69120-35050-Driver-Actuator/dp/B005VWREZG

is it recommended that i shell out twice the amount for OEM, or will asin suffice?

does anyone know if i swap out the actuator, will this be an issue in the near future? i didnt see anything in the OP that mentions why this happens in the first place? the only thing i can think of is age?

TIA.

 

[Daddycreswell]

hello all, first post and i figured it would be better to keep my information contained in this thread as it looks like it hasnt been asked yet.



i just bought a 99 limited last week. once i started driving it, i immediately noticed that the drivers door doesnt unlock when it gets hot. i did a quick search and found this thread.



im not great with electronics, so i was thinking about just buying the whole unit itself:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7588108&cc=1357455&jsn=1098

(can be found under body>door lock actuator)



or OEM:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-69120-35050-Driver-Actuator/dp/B005VWREZG



is it recommended that i shell out twice the amount for OEM, or will asin suffice?



does anyone know if i swap out the actuator, will this be an issue in the near future? i didnt see anything in the OP that mentions why this happens in the first place? the only thing i can think of is age?



TIA.

I just swapped out all 4 motors in the actuator of my son's 2000 a week ago. Cost me 20 bucks and sometime. If you can use a socket, screwdriver and some glue then you can do it. Plenty of threads on here showing how.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[mesooohoppy]

thank you. i am aware what you can do with just the motors (the first post of this thread is very helpful).

in my original post, i state that i am not great with electronics. i would also like to save time by just buying the entire unit. i dont want to buy the unit, just to have it fail in 6-12 months time.

will going the motor route (versus buying the whole unit), yield a longer service life? if so, can you please explain why? thank you.

 

[Daddycreswell]

I'm not a electrical person either. It's as simple as popping the cover off the motor, pull old motor out, take spiral brass sleeve off the old one, slide it on the new motors, push new motor back in and glue the cover back on, reinstall the motor part on the locking mechanism, reinstall back in door. An old saying a guy told me one time, "if your 75% smarter than a watermelon you can work on it". This is true, as far as longevity....I have no idea. If you need help, PM and I'll be glad to answer any questions.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[ATX4Runner1995]

1995 4Runner Door Lock Actuator Motor Replacement

Anyone know if this is the right motor for a 1995 4Runner door lock actuator?

Car Door Lock Mirror Motor Actuator FC-280PT-22125 Mabuchi with Collar FC280 | eBay

 

[IBallEngineer]

Anyone know if this is the right motor for a 1995 4Runner door lock actuator?

Car Door Lock Mirror Motor Actuator FC-280PT-22125 Mabuchi with Collar FC280 | eBay

The link in my original post is no longer any good, but yes the FC280 with collar is correct.
:couch2:

 

[ATX4Runner1995]

Thanks IBallEngineer! Excited to give this a try.

 

[fourfive]

How are you guys prying open the actuator? I spent the last hour & a half very gently trying to pry open the actuator using a combination of a small screw driver, flat edge of a knife blade & a 1" putty knife. The actuator managed to still stay closed while the plastic tabs on the sides broke off making the actuator unusable.

Gonna order all four new oem actuators to get this over with bc i don't want to risk the other actuators breaking & furthering the delay since this is my dd. Was just wondering bc i haven't really heard anyone else having issues getting the actuator open?

 

[habanero]

How are you guys prying open the actuator? I spent the last hour & a half very gently trying to pry open the actuator using a combination of a small screw driver, flat edge of a knife blade & a 1" putty knife. The actuator managed to still stay closed while the plastic tabs on the sides broke off making the actuator unusable.

Gonna order all four new oem actuators to get this over with bc i don't want to risk the other actuators breaking & furthering the delay since this is my dd. Was just wondering bc i haven't really heard anyone else having issues getting the actuator open?

It's been so long I had to look back...6 years ago, figuring I'd have to replace them if the repair didn't work out anyway, I used a small screwdriver and a hammer and gently worked my way around and around, careful not to drive it too deep. I had to do two of them, used Mops motors, both are still working great.

 

[Chris98t4r]

Nice write up

 

[fourfive]

It's been so long I had to look back...6 years ago, figuring I'd have to replace them if the repair didn't work out anyway, I used a small screwdriver and a hammer and gently worked my way around and around, careful not to drive it too deep. I had to do two of them, used Mops motors, both are still working great.

Thanks for the tip about the hammer. I have already ordered all 4 new door lock actuators but will experiment with the hammer method on my old ones.



My original factory door lock actuators are aisin. The actuators from online Toyota dealers were around $110-130 each when I checked. I was lucky to find a Toyota passenger side actuator from amazon for $37 prime but the rest of the actuators I bought were aisin which were around 60$ each.

Aisin door lock actuator part numbers:
Front Right: DLT-070
Front Left: DLT-061
Rear Right: DLT-073
Rear Left: DLT-109

Toyota door lock actuator part numbers:
Front Right: 69110-35050
Front Left: 69120-35050
Rear Right: 69130-35060
Rear left: 69140-35060

Another tip I thought I'd share because I didn't really see it mentioned but before removing the actuator, unscrew the plastic door lock knob. It took me a little while to figure out how to remove that part to free up the actuator. I also had a hard time removing the front door handles and was actually easier for me to unclip the rods from the door handle with the handle still in place. The rear door handles were much easier to remove. Don't know why that was the case.

Edit:
The plastic door lock knob only needs to be removed for front doors.

 

[habanero]

Thanks for the tip about the hammer. I have already ordered all 4 new door lock actuators but will experiment with the hammer method on my old ones.

Gently and patience and at your own risk as usual. I just worked slowly until I got an 'in' and kept working without force until it was apart. Since you have new ones coming no worries- you'll have to let us know what ends up working for you.

 

[Daddycreswell]

I just used a putty knife and was able to to get in a pop it. Then worked around the edges and finally popped open. I know you probably already ordered the parts, but if there is a junk yard around, might have some.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Maddaximus]

Is this the right one?

I found some on Amazon and want to verify they are the correct motor with collar.

Amazon.com: 4 Pack - 10mm BRASS COLLAR SHAFT FC-280PT-22125 Central Door Lock Actuator Motor, BRASS COLLAR SHAFT, Power Locking Repair Engine Replaces Mabuchi : Everything Else

Please let me know, thanks.