Double Cardan Joint Rebuild

OdnsRvns

New member
1999 V6 Limited 4WD with well over 300k miles on the meter. I have replaced tons of parts from normal wear and tear. My newest problem is that the Double Cardan Joint is failing and needs rebuilt. Its the joint that goes from the drive shaft to the rear end. My issue is that I am unable to find the parts to do this myself. Can someone point me in the right direction to these parts. My alternative is to have the shaft rebuilt by someone costing me $300+ or pay for a whole new drive shaft.

Part I need Fixed:
Double-cardan-0246.jpg

Not actual part obviously just similar


EDITS
As I find information out I will post it here.

  • Part Number: Non CV: UJ-238 (The person I talked to at Low Range was not giving the correct information)MStudt
  • Part Number: CV: UJ-236 (I'll verify once High Angle gets back to me)MStudt
  • Parts Contact: High Angle Driveline - 7245 Clark Road Paradise , Ca 95969 - PHONE: (530) 877-2875 Jesse
  • Custom Built Drive Shafts: Tom Woods
 
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1999 V6 Limited 4WD with well over 300k miles on the meter. I have replaced tons of parts from normal wear and tear. My newest problem is that the Double Cardan Joint is failing and needs rebuilt. Its the joint that goes from the drive shaft to the rear end. My issue is that I am unable to find the parts to do this myself. Can someone point me in the right direction to these parts. My alternative is to have the shaft rebuilt by someone costing me $300+ or pay for a whole new drive shaft.

Part I need Fixed:
Double-cardan-0246.jpg

Not actual part obviously just similar

High Angle Driveline is the only place that sells replacement u-joints for that shaft. Do a search, there have been a couple threads in the last month about this exact same topic.

Here
 
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I don't think High line is the only place you can get them. OP, read that thread MStudt posted, and click some of the links there. One of the links I posted is by a guy that put alot of detail into the PN's for the bearings, so it should give you all your options.
 
I don't think High line is the only place you can get them. OP, read that thread MStudt posted, and click some of the links there. One of the links I posted is by a guy that put alot of detail into the PN's for the bearings, so it should give you all your options.

It pretty much is, and we went through this exact same thing in that thread. High Angle is the only place that I've been able to find that actually stock them.
 
Do you have a link to the part?

This is from the last page of the thread I posted.

Just came across this from High Angle Driveline. They state the Matsuba u-joints they now sell will work with both CV joints, and non CV joints. I sent them an email, just waiting to hear back.

*Edit. Came across some more information about the u-joints High Angle sells. Found the Matsuba part numbers we use, and they sell both.

Non CV: UJ-238 (The person I talked to at Low Range was not giving the correct information)
CV: UJ-236 (I'll verify once High Angle gets back to me)

Just heard from High Angle, and this is what they had to say.
"We do have a few left there 33.00 - as long as there inside clip . Jess 530-877-2875"

Jesse knows his stuff! This should clear everything up for the DC u-joint issue. Contact High Angle Driveline if you need the DC u-joints that everyone says aren't made.
 
So bring this back up a bit. Anyone able to get the double cardan u joints? I talked with high line and he said he wont sell them, only will build the driveshaft for me. I cant afford to ship this thing out. My only option now is look for a good used shaft. I cant find anyone that will sell me the parts for the double cardan.

EDIT: HIGHLINE WILL SELL THE PARTS IF YOU ARE NICE TO THEM, LOL. THEY ORIGINALLY WANTED TO ONLY BUILD BUT THEN SAID THEY WOULD SELL THEM.
 
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I'm curious if anyone makes a CV flange that will bolt to the output of the tcase. If so it would be a perfect time to convert it to a standard Spicer 1310 series CV joint and get rid of the impossible to service factory CV shaft.
 
I'm curious if anyone makes a CV flange that will bolt to the output of the tcase. If so it would be a perfect time to convert it to a standard Spicer 1310 series CV joint and get rid of the impossible to service factory CV shaft.

Yes I think some have done this, but others have said the double cardan is good for higher lift applications and angles on the shaft during flexing. I was able to get highline to part with some u joints, now looking for the ball. I was originally told they needed to build it then they said they would sell the parts since I didnt want to ship. My local driveshaft shop told me $45 to install all parts. Ive done u joints before and $45 will be well worth it, LOL.
 
The double cardan jointed drive shaft isn't impossible to service at all. Any competant driveline shop can spruce them up. There are DIY kits also but those joints can be a dick pain to press out sometimes so I leave it to the shop.
 
The double cardan jointed drive shaft isn't impossible to service at all. Any competant driveline shop can spruce them up. There are DIY kits also but those joints can be a dick pain to press out sometimes so I leave it to the shop.

The ujoints are a special size, and they were never offered as a replacement from Toyota. Shops in the US have to bring these in from Japan in order to service them. The only shops that are going to have these are most likely going to be ones that do a ton of Toyota work. DC joints are easy to rebuild, but finding the ujoint isn't.

You can pay a shop to custom make a flange if one isn't available. Then you'll need to replace the DC end that'll allow you to use a standard ujoint. Then you still have the axle end ujoint to deal with. Either way you look at it you're going to pay a pretty penny for it.
 
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The ujoints are a special size, and they were never offered as a replacement from Toyota. Shops in the US have to bring these in from Japan in order to service them. The only shops that are going to have these are most likely going to be ones that do a ton of Toyota work. DC joints are easy to rebuild, but finding the ujoint isn't.

You can pay a shop to custom make a flange if one isn't available. Then you'll need to replace the DC end that'll allow you to use a standard ujoint. Then you still have the axle end ujoint to deal with. Either way you look at it you're going to pay a pretty penny for it.

This is true. I just had all my u-joints done while they were taking care of my cardan. The u-joints needed to be ordered from somewhere in California. Toyota used some oddball size on them for some reason.
 
This is true. I just had all my u-joints done while they were taking care of my cardan. The u-joints needed to be ordered from somewhere in California. Toyota used some oddball size on them for some reason.

High Angle was the source in California, but they're not selling them anymore. I searched for suppliers for these u-joints for a couple months, and never found anyone else besides them. Look or a UJ-236 u-joint.

I came across a place in Illinois called Rockford Drive Line. They might have something since they do a lot of work on Toyota's. You can order them from overseas from here, but you need to be able to understand the language.
 
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High Angle was the source in California, but they're not selling them anymore. I searched for suppliers for these u-joints for a couple months, and never found anyone else besides them. Look or a UJ-236 u-joint.

I came across a place in Illinois called Rockford Drive Line. They might have something since they do a lot of work on Toyota's. You can order them from overseas from here, but you need to be able to understand the language.

High angle did tell me they would sell me the u joints for $34 each which is not bad. They normally will just want to build it but they will sell them if you ask. Im about to purchase some up and pray my centerball is fine.

Is it normal for you to see the ball just looking into the joint? I can see the ball on my and its clean metal. Or should it be seated where I cant see it?
 
High angle did tell me they would sell me the u joints for $34 each which is not bad. They normally will just want to build it but they will sell them if you ask. Im about to purchase some up and pray my centerball is fine.

Is it normal for you to see the ball just looking into the joint? I can see the ball on my and its clean metal. Or should it be seated where I cant see it?

If the cup/ball is bad you'll know it. You'll have a real bad vibration from the rear. Plus you'll be able to wiggle the shit out of it by hand.
 
If the cup/ball is bad you'll know it. You'll have a real bad vibration from the rear. Plus you'll be able to wiggle the shit out of it by hand.

I get vibrations, grinding and squeaking sounds. Can see the ball, if I try and move shaft its pretty solid but have not tried moving the ball by hand.
 
I get vibrations, grinding and squeaking sounds. Can see the ball, if I try and move shaft its pretty solid but have not tried moving the ball by hand.

Sound something like this? I'd have to go look to verify about seeing the ball. You have ball the goes into a cup, and the u-joints are what holds it in place. If you rotate the shaft you'll be able to see the play in it.
 
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Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're after, but my rear u-joint went and I just ordered a new one from the local Toyota dealer. It was pricey @ about $130 but mine was seriously ****ed and was causing so much vibration that it started to damage the output seal and splines on my transfer case. So I needed to be fixed asap.

Beyond that, a low km used drive shaft is not a bad option at all.
 

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