Double Cardan Joint Rebuild

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're after, but my rear u-joint went and I just ordered a new one from the local Toyota dealer. It was pricey @ about $130 but mine was seriously ****ed and was causing so much vibration that it started to damage the output seal and splines on my transfer case. So I needed to be fixed asap.

Beyond that, a low km used drive shaft is not a bad option at all.

Toyota doesnt supply the ones used on the double cardan joint. Front joint near transfer case.
 
Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're after, but my rear u-joint went and I just ordered a new one from the local Toyota dealer. It was pricey @ about $130 but mine was seriously ****ed and was causing so much vibration that it started to damage the output seal and splines on my transfer case. So I needed to be fixed asap.

Beyond that, a low km used drive shaft is not a bad option at all.

Toyota does not offer the DC u-joints. These were never considered a replacement part by Toyota, and therefor they're not carried by them.
 
Here's a video of what mine sounded like when the DC took a dump

4runner click/squeak - YouTube

Yea thats kind of what mine sounds like, its not as bad yet and not knocking as bad but im sure its same issue. I talked with Highline a little more and they said they rob oem parts from an IFS cv joint to get quality parts for there center ball. Of coarse he wont let that info go out the door because he wants me to send it in.

So now im going to look for a low mileage donor vehicle I can buy a shaft from locally. I really dont want to put all new parts in there and a subpar center ball. Also dont want to pay shipping to highline to get it rebuilt right and I dont trust local driveshaft parts.
 
Your center ball might be ok. Mine was. Just the needle bearings were thrashed and the DC fell apart when I opened it up. But I had everything replaced as a precaution.

okay thanks for the info, I think i might just get the ujoints and try that. Just scared the cheap ball may fail.
 
Guys, search a bit here. In another thread some PN's were identified for a replacement bearing for the DC. Also lots of discussion about how it's done, and one guy actually doing it by modifying a different PN.
 
Guys, search a bit here. In another thread some PN's were identified for a replacement bearing for the DC. Also lots of discussion about how it's done, and one guy actually doing it by modifying a different PN.

The DC ball your talking about is not a quality part. I have talked with Highline and they know there stuff. He says the seal is bad and it will fail over time. They use the DC ball out of another application from a front IFS cv. I want high quality OEM parts and dont want to mix high quality u joints with a cheap ball.
 
The DC ball your talking about is not a quality part. I have talked with Highline and they know there stuff. He says the seal is bad and it will fail over time. They use the DC ball out of another application from a front IFS cv. I want high quality OEM parts and dont want to mix high quality u joints with a cheap ball.

The method I remember seeing re-used the stock ball, it just replaced the cups and needles.

If there is another ball that fits, that would be nice info to know. I remember there was another guy that had a damaged ball, and so the replacement bearings weren't worth much for him, and all we could think to do was go to a shop or replace the shaft.
 
The method I remember seeing re-used the stock ball, it just replaced the cups and needles.

If there is another ball that fits, that would be nice info to know. I remember there was another guy that had a damaged ball, and so the replacement bearings weren't worth much for him, and all we could think to do was go to a shop or replace the shaft.

Yea Im going to try and rebuild iwth the same ball and see what happens if I cant find a low mileage drive locally. Be nice just to through it in. I wish Highline Drive would give out that info but they want to make money on the rebuilds so I understand.
 
Here's another interesting thread I just found. Can't take out U-joint

I don't see a replacement inner ball PN anywhere

Here is the most useful thread from the other discussion, just to tie this all together...

Double Cardan joint - Tacoma World Forums

And another good one, same question: '85 Front CV centering ball question. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Still no PN for a replacement center ball...

I was able to find this from one of the forums for the ball.

Northern Drivetrain, LLC: Neapco 7-0409

p# Neapco 7-0409
 
Yes I think some have done this, but others have said the double cardan is good for higher lift applications and angles on the shaft during flexing.

I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.

I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.
 
I went through this recently too. I ended up getting a new driveshaft built with a 1310 style dc joint and the correct Neapco adapter flanges. I posted a bunch of info in a thread called "Rear driveshaft help". If you search for that thread you may find some helpful info.
 
I'm not suggesting that you do away with a DC driveshaft. I'm suggesting converting it to a common DC driveshaft that uses Spicer 1310 ujoints that can be found in ANY auto parts store in the country. Complete rebuild kits which include the centering ball and spring are also easy to find.

I'm going to have to bust out my driveline books and find a CV flange that will bolt to the tcase output flange. There are all kinds of junkyard donor possibilities.

When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.
 
I came across a place in Illinois called Rockford Drive Line. They might have something since they do a lot of work on Toyota's.

I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.
 
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I post a few links in this thread. You can click on them and find all the parts you need. I even posted a link were you can buy replacement parts for your Toyota shafts. Last I checked they had all the parts you need to rebuild them, and they might even have u-joints.

These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.
 

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