Double Cardan Joint Rebuild

These are the guys that High Line says Neapco buys from. He says its not high quality. But I wouldnt know. Im still looking for low mileage local part. Seems to be best option right now.

Nothing is high quality compared to High Angle. They're the best, nothing else compares.
 
When I went through this recently, I was told that the round tube portion of the toy driveshaft is a metric size and wall thickness, so a common 1310 dc will not fit properly. Dc's have a "slip" fit, where they slip inside the tube, then get welded in place. It could probably be modded to work, but the shaft may have major balance issues afterwards.

EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.

It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.

I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.
 
EVERY yoke end on a driveshaft tube is a tight slip fit in the tube and welded in place, not just DCs or Toyotas. Tube can be turned to open up the ID or ends can be turned to change the OD to fit inside another size of tube. There are also 1310 yoke ends (both DC and single cardan) sized for metric tube.

It wouldn't have to be based on the Toy driveshaft either. As long as you have the right ends to attach to the tcase and rear axle it doesn't matter what's between the ends.

I worked in a shop that built driveshafts for everything from shaft driven motorcycles to mine dump trucks when I was in college, so I'm pretty familiar with the workings of them. We didn't balance driveshafts either. We eliminated runout and balancing wasn't necessary. Balancing is quick and cheap for assembly line purposes, but it's not the only way to eliminate vibrations.

Agreed... with all of it. I have built/shortened/lengthened a few in my garage with shop tools. Anything is possible with the right tools. My only point was if the intention is to simply put a 1310 dc on a toyota driveshaft (like what many Jeeps run), it is not as easy as it sounds. I asked about machining the yoke and/or the tube to match, and the driveline shop didn't like that idea because of the questionable material thickness on the toy shaft. Also, it was cheaper for me to get a whole new driveshaft with the toy-to-1310 flanges on both ends.
 
Wonder if Tom Woods can just custom make one for you. I thought their prices were ok considering the quality.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist

They can, it will be $450 with the correct Toy flange adapters, and you'll be able to bolt it right in. I had a driveline shop called Quigley 4x4 build me one. They are local to where I live so I could pick it up when done. They will also ship though. Let me know if interested, and I can get you in touch with the right person at Quigley.
 
They can, it will be $450 with the correct Toy flange adapters, and you'll be able to bolt it right in. I had a driveline shop called Quigley 4x4 build me one. They are local to where I live so I could pick it up when done. They will also ship though. Let me know if interested, and I can get you in touch with the right person at Quigley.

Quigley...as in the ones who convert Ford vans into off road adventure monsters???
 
Quigley...as in the ones who convert Ford vans into off road adventure monsters???

Yep!! The very same. The company is based out of Manheim, Pa. They build their own driveshafts for the van 4wd conversions, and have made a great sideline business doing custom shafts much like Tom Woods does.
 
No, I wasn't suggesting converting a Toy driveshaft. That's why I mentioned that there are all kinds of DC donors in junkyards in my first post in this thread.

My Jeep DC driveshafts start out as front driveshafts from '90-01 Ford Exploders. They have a relatively thick walled, large diameter tube and 1310s front and rear. Those are probably too short for a 4Runner though. I'm going to dig into this when I have a chance.
 
So a 1997 4runner showed up at the local pull and pay here in the springs. They dont let you know 4x4 just the sr5 trim. Went down and it was 3.4l, 4x4, auto, 147k mileage. Really bad shape, been rolled, rear end missing, completely stripped before it was brought to the yard but the shaft was still there.

Fixed my problem. When taking the old shaft out the double cardan joint has lots of rocks, dirt mud, metal pieces falling out. Im guessing that was my sound.

Highline said $179-$250 for rebuild, local shop quoted $420 for custom built shaft with high quality u joints, or rebuild of mine with cheap parts for $150.

Ended up fixing it for $20. Also picked up some other parts I needed here and there. Now if this makes noise I have one I can ship out to highline for repair.
 
Rear driveshaft ujoint

Sorry to ressurect this, but I want to replace the back ujoint on my PN28 DC driveshaft. I was told to stay OEM, but I can't find the ujoint.

I just had a chat with lowrangeoffroad and they said it would work as long as it wasn't with the DC. I told them it was so the chat ended. Of course I tried back to tell them it was for the rear of it, and they were gone. Maybe it will work back there? Matusuba ~ http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/toyota-matsuba-matsui-u-joints-universal-joint.html


I originally had the thought of going to the local AZone, but my Tacoma buddies advised against it, as they like to use OEM due to bad experiences. Also mentioned a 4Runner guy complaining of a ujoint vibration (as they had) when using aftermarket stuff. After reading this thread, I see it's hard to find. Problem is, none of the links really assured me they will work on the DC.

I'd like to do this soon, but I am a bit concerned about picking it up, or ordering the rear one as the donkey at one place I spoke to didn't think the PN28 was a stock item. I don't want to do the work and have it be a waste of time. I will do the front as well eventually (soon) but I have a bad vibe when hitting the gas, and I believe through process of elimination, it's the rear ds ujoint.

So I guess what I am asking is what part number should I shoot for on my 97 4Runner SR5 Auto 4WD with the PN28 DC driveshaft? Not sure if the 04371-3505 is right.

Also, the following website shows what I ~think~ is a pic of the double cardan, which has that part number above.

http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=494091&ukey_make=1060&ukey_model=15426&modelYear=1997&ukey_category=21645[/url]

Just looking for some confirmation.

Thanks,

LP
 
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What's high angle charge to rebuild and balance the shaft? I've got no issues shipping it to them if they'll do it right.
 
My local shop in Dayton, Oh quoted me $250-275 to rebuild the entire rear drive shaft. They are a drive-line specialty shop that has been around for decades. The guy told me he has rebuilt a lot of the 4runner rear shafts and stocks all the required parts. I have used these guys before on other 4x4s I have owned and I have never had a problem with their quality.
 
Went through this issue myself. I was fortunate enough to find a pristine one attached to a a cut driveshaft at a local pick and pull. It had to be cut welded to the existing driveshaft because the stud the centering ball mounts on was bound to be as mangled as the joint. Working great now.
 

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