Down on power after car wash (P0172) ?

[thegipper]

That crack was most likely the problem! Here's the rationale as of why. That crack in the pipe is allowing unmetered fresh air to contact the oxygen sensor under some circumstances like idling. The oxygen sensor picks up that unmetered air and sensor a high amount of oxygen in the 'exhaust'. That tells the sensor that the engine is not burning off all the air and is running lean, even though it is not. The ECU adds fuel like you are seeing but under some circumstances that crack isn't pulling in much air, like when the engine is under load and exhaust is coming out of the crack instead of fresh air being pulled in. It then throws a rich code since oxygen sensor is out of normal range on the rich end.

If you pull the EFI fuse after that O2 flange weld and drive it around, I'm very confident that the fuel trims will be back to normal.

I was wondering if it had something to do with it. By the looks of the rust around it, it's seems to be somewhat old or at least, it didn't just "all of a sudden crack" if that makes since. It may have opened up more or....or.....when I went through the car wash the water hitting the hot pipe caused it open up a bunch more??? Who knows, hard to say.

I used a flashlight down the pipe to confirm my weld sealed it up and it did.

New o2 sensors are going in on Friday as long as I can figure out how the hell i'm going to fix that stud that broke.

 

[thegipper]

Here is the stud that broke.

And here is what was left of the nut on the O2 sensor.
The other one was completely rusted off.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

That crack was most likely the problem! Here's the rationale as of why.
If you pull the EFI fuse after that O2 flange weld and drive it around, I'm very confident that the fuel trims will be back to normal.

[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION],
On cold start puddles of condensate formed under Cat to Muff Muff to tail joints. Let it go till a Cat code set, replaced gaskets good to go. So I can see that split at sensor playing hell with fuel trims.
Mechanic god's shined down on you getting stud out that easy, sweet.
What length bit you use ?
Something to add to toolbox, extra length jobber bits 6-10", new not cheap the time it saves your bacon worth cost.
3-4 lefthand bits good for backing broke stuff out of blind hole.

 

[thegipper]

[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION],
On cold start puddles of condensate formed under Cat to Muff Muff to tail joints. Let it go till a Cat code set, replaced gaskets good to go. So I can see that split at sensor playing hell with fuel trims.
Mechanic god's shined down on you getting stud out that easy, sweet.
What length bit you use ?
Something to add to toolbox, extra length jobber bits 6-10", new not cheap the time it saves your bacon worth cost.
3-4 lefthand bits good for backing broke stuff out of blind hole.

I haven't got the broken stud out yet, going to nuke the hell around it tomorrow after work and trying using a stud extractor.

Wish me luck.

 

[96RedRunner]

I haven't got the broken stud out yet, going to nuke the hell around it tomorrow after work and trying using a stud extractor.

Wish me luck.

Oh damn, one day I'll be able read,,,, Good Luck.

 

[Built4Run]

I'll order some wires just because mine are who knows how old and maybe it is the problem.

Also, I pulled all of the plugs and they all looked fine minus some were semi loose. Also, a couple had oil on them (looks like I need to do a VC job soon).

And finally, although I don't have a CEL, I checked for pending codes and sure enough, I have a P0172.

I think I should start there. So what causes that code?

Thanks guys.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

Your valve covers could also be the culprit oil in the spark tubes definitely will f*** with you...
I’d just clean dry out everything and reinstall then make a move on buying parts

 

[thegipper]

Your valve covers could also be the culprit oil in the spark tubes definitely will f*** with you...
I’d just clean dry out everything and reinstall then make a move on buying parts

I already cleaned out the spark plug tubes that had the oil in it, still ran like crap and threw the pending P0172 rich code.

 

[thegipper]

Down anyone know the bolt size and thread pitch for the crossover flange studs?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

Success! I got the stud out. I brought home our acetylene torch from work but whoever used it last, didn't say the acetylene was empty (mother f*&%*~).

I used my Mapp gas torch for literally 20 minutes. Almost fell asleep under there.

Tomorrow, I'll put it back together and see if the O2 sensors and/or fixing the crack in pipe fixes my problem.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

Well it's fixed! Pulled the efi fuse for 10 minutes and she started right up and was idling nicely. Took it for a 10 minute drive and was running better than it ever has.

Thanks for the help fellas.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Map gas is my preferred torch.

I do want to eventually want to get the induction heater that you wrap wire around what you want to heat up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

I do want to eventually want to get the induction heater that you wrap wire around what you want to heat up...

Speaking of Induction Heaters, You know of the welders on two wheel trailers 4 cyl diesel 12kw + Gen, they make fantastic induction heaters for thawing frozen water pipes. Attach leads turn welder up to max amps start it up, sounds crazy but it works on suspended saw mill sprinkler systems.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Speaking of Induction Heaters, You know of the welders on two wheel trailers 4 cyl diesel 12kw + Gen, they make fantastic induction heaters for thawing frozen water pipes. Attach leads turn welder up to max amps start it up, sounds crazy but it works on suspended saw mill sprinkler systems.

Yep, did that working at the sawmill. We had a welder that was huge we used to Jet Arch.

Where I work now (Hershey’s) we use a setup (480vac) like that to keep pipes warm for products and ingreadents that require pipes to be above 100f. (BannerDay, Rickwell)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

Yep, (BannerDay, Rickwell)......

Know the name, moving liquid sugar, oils, water for cookies, breads, cakes. Small world.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Know the name, moving liquid sugar, oils, water for cookies, breads, cakes. Small world.

Industrial Electrician like Me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

Industrial Electrician like Me?...

I wish just IE, you guy's had it made, Ha. Multi-Craft Industrial Maint Tech long time, 38 yrs. Jack of all master of none. bakery, wood, R&D Prototype design & fab paper, Auto robotics, Oil industry chief electronic tech drillship, Retired oh yea 2016. Was fun!!

 

[thegipper]

Quick little update:

She's running better than I think it ever has. I did clean the MAF, throttle body and air filter so that all probably helped. I also have picked up about 1.5mpg average so far after resetting the log on my ultra gauge (17.2mpg now, all city no highway yet). I've driven it 4 or 5 times since I put it back together and still running great.

I'm tempted to put back in the old O2 sensor just to see if it was the sensor or if it was that crack (I probably won't but it would be interesting to know).

On a side note, I noticed a couple drips of oil on the floor of my garage where my truck was sitting for a week until I could fix it. The oil (gear oil) was in the area of the 3rd member. I crawled under there and sure enough, I got a leak somewhere. I cleaned the area up real well and it turns out, it was leaking from the third member itself where it seals against the housing. I tightened up all of the nuts a little more and as of this morning, it's still dry. But....while I was under there, my axle housing was looking pretty toasty (rusty) so I took the time to clean it up and repaint it.

I first used Krud Kutter rust remover. I sprayed all of the rusty areas repeatedly every 15 minutes or so for a couple hours. WOW, that stuff works awesome! It basically removed ALL of the rusty areas down to bare metal. I used a wire brush to knock off any of the loose stuff and hit it with some brake cleaner before I put a couple coats of paint on it.

I think I'm going to spend a Saturday and do the same to all of the other critical areas that rusty on my truck. I think they even make a gel version that clings to the rusty area so you don't have to keep applying it (you're supposed to keep the rusted areas wet with the product until its gone).

Cheers!

 

[LittleCaesar]

That is good to gear, at least with the MPGs.

As someone who has taken the hard road in my younger days to poking the bear one too may times, don’t touch the new sensors. Just enjoy the drive.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION], I'm tempted to put back in the old O2 sensor just to see if it was the sensor or if it was that crack
(I probably won't but it would be interesting to know).

Ah come on, all the new hardware be easy.
Good fix, Congrats.

Finished concrete floors I like for the drips, made connection of exhaust leaks and Cat fault easy, shows you where to turn the wrench right.
You run out of Krud Kutter try Ospho, Third Coast favorite for steel boats and cars.