Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]

[mbumpus11]

Want to make sure I'm buying the right part: when I click the original link now, there are various options (and part number is slightly different - PC vs PT) - am I buying the "flat shaft - standard length" that it defaults to? I'm assuming it's not round shaft, given the write-up, but I don't know what length?

Alternatively, searching for the exact part number on AMZN gets this result: https://www.amazon.com/FC-280PT-22125-Central-Actuator-Locking-Replaces/dp/B00CM10NE8

Would that work?

Sorry for the noob question, but don't want to order the wrong part and realize it when I've got the panel off and actuator out!

Thanks in advance.

Sorry for the delay here - but the post below your question is correct. Flat shaft, standard length is what you are looking for.

Not sure why the Amazon link would be a different part, but maybe it has to do how they were listed on the respective websites (eBay vs Amazon).

Hope all works out!

 

[mbumpus11]

A bit off topic - but mind sharing where that view is from? Would love to go visit, and looks like you're from Houston so hopefully not too far.

Not too far at all...Padre Island National Seashore - https://www.nps.gov/pais/index.htm

You should go check it out!

 

[danneskjold]

Thanks for the great write-up, it helped a ton!

I'm having an issue after install that I'm hoping maybe someone can help me with. The actuator fix worked - I can lock/unlock from the key fob which I couldn't do once it died. But now I can only open the door from the interior of the car. When I try to open it from the outside, I get a hollow "thunk" sound and nothing happens. I know it's something stupid I missed when putting everything back together, but I can't figure out what!

 

[KGcobra]

It sounds like you didn't install the actuator correctly. The exterior handle functions a rod/lever that sits into the actuator.
-Pull the exterior handle, the rod attached to it inside the door moves, that rod then engages the actuator.-
That rod most likely is not lined up with the actuator properly after you installed it.

Thanks for the great write-up, it helped a ton!

I'm having an issue after install that I'm hoping maybe someone can help me with. The actuator fix worked - I can lock/unlock from the key fob which I couldn't do once it died. But now I can only open the door from the interior of the car. When I try to open it from the outside, I get a hollow "thunk" sound and nothing happens. I know it's something stupid I missed when putting everything back together, but I can't figure out what!

 

[Youngerarlaw]

Does anyone know the if the FC-280PT-22125 is the same as the 280PC? I can’t find the PT with the standard length flat shaft. Thanks in advance and I hope I didn’t miss this somewhere.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jhguth]

Does anyone know the if the FC-280PT-22125 is the same as the 280PC? I can’t find the PT with the standard length flat shaft. Thanks in advance and I hope I didn’t miss this somewhere.


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no idea, but here is the PT with flat shaft (it's also half the price of that amazon one):
Mabuchi Nichibo Door Lock Motor Flat or Round Shaft 20mm or 10mm FC-280PC-22125 | eBay

 

[4x4Buckeye]

Amazon part correct ?

My drivers side died last night, in searching for parts I found what appears to be the entire assembly replacement for under $50.00 on Amazon while Toyota is quoting $222.00 ? Can someone let me know if this looks like what I need to order ? If I get this part I can just swap it out correct, don't have to disassemble the old and and replace the motor or add a motor to this new part?

I'd much rather just swap the whole thing for new if its only $30.00 difference and I have some Amazon credit to use. Thanks in advance

https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Compatible-69040-0C050-69040-42250-69040-06180/dp/B07GP6VLX1/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547136523&vehicle=2015-76-1005------------1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2015%3Atoyota%3A4runner&keywords=door+latch+actuator

 

[ChiTri]

My drivers side died last night, in searching for parts I found what appears to be the entire assembly replacement for under $50.00 on Amazon while Toyota is quoting $222.00 ? Can someone let me know if this looks like what I need to order ? If I get this part I can just swap it out correct, don't have to disassemble the old and and replace the motor or add a motor to this new part?

I'd much rather just swap the whole thing for new if its only $30.00 difference and I have some Amazon credit to use. Thanks in advance

https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Compatible-69040-0C050-69040-42250-69040-06180/dp/B07GP6VLX1/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547136523&vehicle=2015-76-1005------------1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2015%3Atoyota%3A4runner&keywords=door+latch+actuator

I've had the same problem with both of my front doors and that's the part that I used. I wish I had known that I could just replace the motor but the new assemble has worked fine for me twice.

 

[jhguth]

My drivers side died last night, in searching for parts I found what appears to be the entire assembly replacement for under $50.00 on Amazon while Toyota is quoting $222.00 ? Can someone let me know if this looks like what I need to order ? If I get this part I can just swap it out correct, don't have to disassemble the old and and replace the motor or add a motor to this new part?

I'd much rather just swap the whole thing for new if its only $30.00 difference and I have some Amazon credit to use. Thanks in advance

https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Compatible-69040-0C050-69040-42250-69040-06180/dp/B07GP6VLX1/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1547136523&vehicle=2015-76-1005------------1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2015%3Atoyota%3A4runner&keywords=door+latch+actuator

they haven't fixed the part in the full assembly though, so it will die again

 

[4x4Buckeye]

they haven't fixed the part in the full assembly though, so it will die again

This appears to a non Toyota part so maybe the motor is not the same ?

 

[jhguth]

This appears to a non Toyota part so maybe the motor is not the same ?

that's a good point as long as it's not made by the same supplier toyota uses. someone who buys one of these from amazon should open it and take a pic of the motor to see if it has the same part number as the toyota OEM part

 

[4x4Buckeye]

that's a good point as long as it's not made by the same supplier toyota uses. someone who buys one of these from amazon should open it and take a pic of the motor to see if it has the same part number as the toyota OEM part

My plan is to dissect the OME unit when I pull it, try to get an idea on just replacing the motor so if another goes out I’ll have an idea on what to do. Nervous about doing this swap, it’s cold AF and my garage is not heated. Not to mention I’m not super mechanically inclined. Looks as if all the OME motors and the after market differ in color on the base of the motor, white vs black. If I can see into the new unit when I arrives I’ll post a pic.

 

[jhguth]

My plan is to dissect the OME unit when I pull it, try to get an idea on just replacing the motor so if another goes out I’ll have an idea on what to do. Nervous about doing this swap, it’s cold AF and my garage is not heated. Not to mention I’m not super mechanically inclined. Looks as if all the OME motors and the after market differ in color on the base of the motor, white vs black. If I can see into the new unit when I arrives I’ll post a pic.

Just check that everything works before you shit the door, this is a really easy project even for someone without wrenching experience

 

[Koddo]

They must have used different motors in 2014-2015...it really seems like this problem is specific to those years. My 2010 with 116k miles has never had a lock actuator problem, nor do they sound sluggish or "going". Would be interesting to know if they used a cheaper or defective motor starting in 2014....

 

[Hockey Hauler]

Thanks for posting this. I replaced the Driver's and Passenger rear motors this weekend. Pics were a big help after some pieces fell out of the first actuator I opened. 2 motors took 2 Hours start to finish with my 10 year old "helping". The weatherstripping that seals the actuator housing didn't survive and I had to get it back together if we were gonna make it to hockey practice on time... so I'll need to open the doors up again to get new weatherstripping on this week.

 

[ScarfaceT4R]

Just confirming for people that the "FC-280PC-22125 Flat Shaft, D Spindle for $10.99 on Amazon (link below) works like a charm. I replaced my 2 front doors with these little suckers & it feels so good performing this "surgery" yourself and saving a butt load of money doing it. Shame on Toyota for having us rip apart our almost new vehicles doors though... tsk tsk....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYD0QVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[4x4Buckeye]

HELP Key wont work but remote does?

Installed replacement and all went well for about a week, then it stated acting up, making an odd grinding sound. Then the key would no longer work, insert and turns but does nothing. So ordered a new unit, swapped it out and the same issue, the key manually will not work. The remote unlocks/locks it fine though. The key worked on the original unit that would not work with the remote. I'm at a total loss? Two units from different manufactures fail in the same way? Something tells me Im doing something wrong.

My plan is to dissect the OME unit when I pull it, try to get an idea on just replacing the motor so if another goes out I’ll have an idea on what to do. Nervous about doing this swap, it’s cold AF and my garage is not heated. Not to mention I’m not super mechanically inclined. Looks as if all the OME motors and the after market differ in color on the base of the motor, white vs black. If I can see into the new unit when I arrives I’ll post a pic.

 

[BadAtChoosingNames]

Just ordered a full replacement actuator from RockAuto for about $50...figured I'll replace the whole thing than to take the original one apart to replace the motor...thanks for all of the info in this thread. Hopefully I can get it replaced with minimal F-Bombs.

 

[-JD-]

Just over 75K KM's on my 2016 and my drivers door actuator died.

Replaced the electric motor using this writeup. Great detailed write up, thanks.

 

[mooch91]

This is a great write-up, just finished this project on my driver's door. Took about double the quoted 45-50 minutes. Some tips:

• Read the write-up all the way through. I got through the first couple of posts and went to town and had issues the first time around. I had to take the door panel back apart because the lock cylinder was not inserted in the actuator properly. It took me a while to find out that the lock cylinder should be removed and inserted in to the actuator (instead of trying to work the actuator around the post on the cylinder). If you do mess it up, you don't have to take the door panel back off to fix it - unfortunately I didn't catch that until it was all torn back apart - see this post: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2856103-post24.html.
• Pull the weatherstripping very carefully off the actuator. I was going a little fast and it ripped halfway through. I reused it and pieced it together, but it would have been nice to have it come off in one piece.
• Be prepared for the butyl adhesive on the plastic weathershield of the door to get all over everything and to make it difficult to put the weathershield back in place.
• Be careful pulling the door panel off with the pins. I had a couple of pins snap off (thankfully the door panel side didn't snap, just the pins). They were reusable, but I am thinking I will try to replace them. Anyone know the part number of the white pins that hold the door panel on?