Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!]
- Thread starter mbumpus11
- Start date
I only get one result when I search for that a 10mm. From the image it looks like a 10mm. If you are in doubt just buy the 20mm and cut/grind it down if you need too.
Couple bucks more but:
Amazon.com: 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine: Home Improvement
This is the route I just went. Ordered a couple just now for my fiancé’s 2017 4Runner. They’ve been out too long and I just randomly googled and found this info on the forum!!
Thank you for this awesome write up and all the details, OP!
We’re tackling this in a couple days and will report or victory.
Well, I’m back to report as promised! Success! We replaced both front door lock actuator motors. Only took a couple hours to do both but I think I need to take the driver side out again. The key doesn’t work from the outside. When the actuator was taken apart, there seemed to be a piece that was out of place but we just left it but thinking back, I’m guessing that’s what is causing the key issue. Hmm...
Thank you so much for this write up and all the info. The links to the products and the videos were SO HELPFUL!
Thank you so much for this write up and all the info. The links to the products and the videos were SO HELPFUL!
Attachments
Hey, you don't have to open up the door to get the key working... search for some other posts with pics, but briefly...
On the side of the door there is a (black on mine) plastic plug... pull that out, and there's a Torx fitting inside... unscrew that all the way (it's captive, won't fall out/down)
and then the key mechanism on the outside of the door falls out, in your hand hopefully. You can then re-insert that mechanism so that the actuating (?) rod is where it's supposed to be. Then tighten the torx, put the plug in. Easy.
I suggest you search for the posts, don't trust me, because I don't.... just a quick note from memory to save you some work.
HTH
On the side of the door there is a (black on mine) plastic plug... pull that out, and there's a Torx fitting inside... unscrew that all the way (it's captive, won't fall out/down)
and then the key mechanism on the outside of the door falls out, in your hand hopefully. You can then re-insert that mechanism so that the actuating (?) rod is where it's supposed to be. Then tighten the torx, put the plug in. Easy.
I suggest you search for the posts, don't trust me, because I don't.... just a quick note from memory to save you some work.
HTH
dclark2171
Member
I got the drivers door actuator installed. Weird issue. Before putting the panel back on, with everything hooked up, I tried the interior manual lock. It does not stay locked manually, always snaps back to unlock. Works properly as long as power button or fob is used. Linkage looks correct. ny thoughts?
dclark2171
Member
My bad. I had the battery engaged to roll window down/up. You are correct. It stops you from locking keys in car. The install overall went great. I’m doing drivers side later today once motor gets delivered.
Toffees
Member
Thanks again for the write up. I had my front passenger replaced under warranty, but I did my driver front this weekend. When I opened the actuator housing, two pieces fell out but by carefully looking at the pictures above and taking my time, I got these back into place. When I did get it all installed, I had an issue with the automatic door lock--if I pressed lock it would quickly cycle a few times then put it back to unlock. (sounded like a paintball marker). I think I got the order of the wires wrong (tried to send the signal before I plugged the actuator back in) and maybe one of the metal cables was not properly secured. So I removed the actuator housing and checked the function again, I might have also had one of the positions incorrect (the one that's hard to see in the picture) and reassembled and manually on the cables until I was comfortable with the locking and unlocking. (also made sure to power off the car, which can be confusing with an LE.)
Got it all reassembled and it works, the door handle rod was not an issue at all, thanks probably to mistakes made previously by others which are well documented. it's nice to be able to lock my car again using the handle touch and not get a series of annoying beeps because my driver lock did not turn (and it's a long reach for me from the passenger side to unlock).
my only issue now is that if i hit the door lock button with the driver door open it unlocks all doors, not sure if this is how it should be or if that is a preference I can change, but it works.
Oh, also I couldn't get all of the plastic tabs back in, I am going to buy a handful from the dealer and try that again. Driver rear will be next, when it finally breaks.
Door Handle Fail
I replaced the front driver's side actuator motor on my 2017 last night. That part was simple thanks to this post and all seems to be in working order as my key fob can again lock and unlock the door.
However, now the outside door handle is not working. Did I knock something loose when removing the actuator? I'm sure it is a simple fix, but I have not had time to look into the issue.
I replaced the front driver's side actuator motor on my 2017 last night. That part was simple thanks to this post and all seems to be in working order as my key fob can again lock and unlock the door.
However, now the outside door handle is not working. Did I knock something loose when removing the actuator? I'm sure it is a simple fix, but I have not had time to look into the issue.
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Any issues with the outside door handle after reinstall?
Did my 2017 last night and the motor works great, but now the outside handle isn’t working.
...had that happened to me when I was doing the actuator motor the first time. Took me a bit to figured it out. It was the door handle cable came off alignment before reinstalling the inside door panel. Got to to make sure the cables stays put and that the child safety lock is off when positioning the panel back on.
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Are you talking the cable from the actuator to the door? Or a rod from the handle itself. Appears to be a metal rod from the handle that is not connected to something in the door.
Just to clarify, I am having issues with the outside handle. Interior handle works just fine.
MC..Its been a few years since I had done mind. My memory may not be as clear but my exterior door wouldn't work. I took it apart again and I had noticed that the one of the two cable had pop off. It didn't take much to make it pop off. Maybe you may have something else happening. Good luck bro...
rayofsi
New member
0 issues, as others mentioned, need to make sure everything is aligned and attached.
mbumpus11
Member
Read under where I typed **********EDIT*********** at the bottom of this post: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2773145-post4.html
That should help you fix the outer handle issue!
Well, I finally realized why my car wasn't beeping when I pushed the lock button on the key fob. It turns out two of the lock actuators weren't working. I just wanted to say thanks for this post. I got the new motors from Amazon in two days and was able to replace them over the weekend. I'm back in business and have never been happier to hear the little beep!
C:\T4R.EXE
New member
Just did this on a 2014 Trail Premium
Performed this surgery on driver and passenger side front doors. Took me about three hours. I used these motors from Amazon 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine. Overall it was pretty straightforward. This video was helpful. It doesn't go into replacing the small motor but covers the rest of the procedure pretty well.
A few things to keep in mind:
1. Some of the plastic plugs that hold the panel on will likely stay attached in the door. You'll need to put them back in the panel prior to reassembly.
2. Because of the support for using the physical key, the driver side actuator assembly has some loose parts, so be gentle when you pull it apart. I had to figure out how to put some stuff back together. Sorry, didn't take a picture.
3. Also because of the support for using the physical key, the driver side actuator assembly takes some patience to get back in. I got the rod into the bottom hole first, positioned the top gear thingy in front (toward the front of the door where the hinges are) of the round area it's supposed to go into, then slowly moved the entire assembly toward the front of the door until it slid into place. You can use your key to twist the gear to help it seat correctly.
Pretty satisfying to get the locks working correctly again. It cost me $12 and my time. Good luck!
Performed this surgery on driver and passenger side front doors. Took me about three hours. I used these motors from Amazon 10mm Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125 FLAT SHAFT, D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine. Overall it was pretty straightforward. This video was helpful. It doesn't go into replacing the small motor but covers the rest of the procedure pretty well.
A few things to keep in mind:
1. Some of the plastic plugs that hold the panel on will likely stay attached in the door. You'll need to put them back in the panel prior to reassembly.
2. Because of the support for using the physical key, the driver side actuator assembly has some loose parts, so be gentle when you pull it apart. I had to figure out how to put some stuff back together. Sorry, didn't take a picture.
3. Also because of the support for using the physical key, the driver side actuator assembly takes some patience to get back in. I got the rod into the bottom hole first, positioned the top gear thingy in front (toward the front of the door where the hinges are) of the round area it's supposed to go into, then slowly moved the entire assembly toward the front of the door until it slid into place. You can use your key to twist the gear to help it seat correctly.
Pretty satisfying to get the locks working correctly again. It cost me $12 and my time. Good luck!
mbumpus11
Member
Glad my write up helped you out. There was some discussion through the thread about "threading" the physical rod through the handle/lock mech after the fact, so I'm glad you were able to figure it out. May need to go back and update the original post I made with that info to make it more clear.
Given my experience has been with the ebay motors and there were pics/descriptions, do you see the amazon motors being of equal design/quality? Great to have more options to purchase the applicable motor, if so.
