Driving through water

[Jetboy]

Did Toyota do that for the FJ?

I don't think so. They're basically all the same underneath except for a slight change in wheelbase. The FJ fording depth should be the same as the 4runner.

 

[Jetboy]

It does happen. I've seen the result. It's not from water coming in the one way valve. It' is when the diff is really hot and you submerge fully into water . The drop in pressure and vacuum cause a suction and it seeps in through various seals... You need a breather of some sort for sure, but the little one way is probably good enough for 99% of runners adventures.

The reason I'm curious is that it seems reasonable to anticipate water intrusion. But even the 7x series that have factory snorkels and deep water fording depths don't have remote breathers. And they get used a lot in deep water crossings. I'd love to know what the engineers at Toyota are thinking about with the design and why they choose to remote some breathers and not others.

 

[Jetboy]

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UoYTjInYzQA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[ToyoDriver]

I think every connector or nearly every connector has an o-ring seal that would do a pretty good job of water protection. I've yet to open one that isn't on my 5th gen. But there may be some that aren't. A little silicone grease on the o-rings could help ensure that they aren't compromised by deep water crossings.

The biggest problems I've had over the years is the mess. Water and mud in the carpets is a HUGE PITA to clean up. Especially the thin gooey kind of mud that comes through the drains under the carpeting and gets in your seat tracks and such. It's just not something I ever want to try to clean out of my daily driver. Unless it's absolutely necessary, I'd find an alternative route around the mud/water. My personal stopping point is when the water hits the floor pan unless it's a very quick in and out where I won't get water inside the cab. Otherwise I've made a mistake and should be in my FJ40 or hiking.

This is my limit. It's a daily driver first. As much as I love to test the limits, as I've gotten older and lamer (or wiser depending on you view point) I accept my limits a little more.

Holy shit that water is clean.

 

[sting555]

Has anyone ever actually found water in the rear diff after a water crossing? Or ever? Toyota has been doing this for a very long time. The diff breather valve has been used for a very long time. I've yet to find any water in any of my axles ever. I've done breather tubes on quite a few, but i'm not sure it's really necessary.

I've been in water over the hood in my '84 - and it killed the distributor first. Don't do that. I was able to winch out and still drive it home, but it was a long day. I'd guess in a 5th gen you might get lucky and have an intake sensor shut it down before sucking in water, but I kinda doubt it. My guess is an over the hood water crossing would result in buying a new engine.

I've had water in my rear diff on my 2015 SR5 4x4. The water crossing was near afton canyon on the southern part of Mojave road. The water came up to the bottom of the doors. I decided to check the diff when I came home from that trip and, sure enough, my rear diff oil looked like a milkshake.

The front diff, transmission, and transfer case all have breathers located safely under the hood. The rear diff and e-locker (for those with lockers) breathers should definitely be re-located for anyone who might be doing water crossings.

 

[delloro]

It's not posted because there is no magic number. You can hydrolock and drown your engine in 8" of water if you drive through it too quickly, or you can safely navigate 30" for short periods if the conditions are right and you know what you're doing. The general rule if driven slowly without wake is about 24-30" for short periods as the air intake is on the inside passenger side fender about 3/4 of the way up (the slots at the front of the fender liner). So if you have a 31-32" tire that's about 24" +/-lift.

Toyota posted it for the FJ.

Nissan posted it for the xterra, jeep posts it for the grand cherokee.

 

[delloro]

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UoYTjInYzQA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Jetboy, that vid is very helpful, thanks!

 

[Cymon]

Toyota posted it for the FJ.

Nissan posted it for the xterra, jeep posts it for the grand cherokee.

Fair enough:hatsoff:

 

[ADK Explorer]

From what I've read in offroading articles and seen in instructional videos, creating a small bow wave is desired as it creates a low pressure area under the front of the vehicle lowering the water depth at the air intake. They say to not let water come up over the hood. Slow and steady. Thoughts?

 

[TheBelafonte]

Noob here trying to revive this thread for a little help.

I took my stock 5th gen TRD through some 1-2' deep but fairly short puddles today. This was not a smart idea I'm aware but I did it and I'm hoping for a little clarification.

I was in and out of each puddle/hole in a matter of a couple of seconds, no water over the hood. Would the best thing to do here be to just take it in and have a professional check the fluid to see if it needs replacing?

I've ordered the ARB diff breather so I won't have to worry about this after I clear things up with today's questionable decision making.

Thanks in advance.

 

[b407driver]

Noob here trying to revive this thread for a little help.

I took my stock 5th gen TRD through some 1-2' deep but fairly short puddles today. This was not a smart idea I'm aware but I did it and I'm hoping for a little clarification.

I was in and out of each puddle/hole in a matter of a couple of seconds, no water over the hood. Would the best thing to do here be to just take it in and have a professional check the fluid to see if it needs replacing?

I've ordered the ARB diff breather so I won't have to worry about this after I clear things up with today's questionable decision making.

Thanks in advance.

Don't think it's very easy to 'check it' without basically changing the fluid out, anyway.

When you do your breather kit install, just make sure to get the e-locker breather coming off the driver side top of the rear diff (it's a small-ish silver box). There is one wire bundle and one breather line coming out of the top of it, and it's hard to see both where it exits and where it climbs up behind a frame member and terminates in a cap.

Ask me how I know. (never mind, don't...) lol

 

[MossJenks]

It's probably worth checking, but yeah hard to check without draining the diff. If you have a lot of water you can pull the filler plug shortly after driving and stick a finger in it and if it comes out like a milkshake you've got water. A little water can end up at the bottom of the diff (water is heavier than oil) and not cause a serious issue, but then all you need is a little more to have a real problem. If it was only a couple of seconds you're probably OK though.

If you're even vaguely inclined, changing the rear diff oil makes an engine oil change look like rocket science. It's one of the simplest jobs on the whole truck. You don't even have to jack the truck up. Drop the spare tire and just sit under it and do it.

 

[TheBelafonte]

Don't think it's very easy to 'check it' without basically changing the fluid out, anyway.

Yeah I'll have to just change it out to play it safe I suppose. Thanks for the tip on the breather mod I've copied and pasted into my notes for it.

It's probably worth checking, but yeah hard to check without draining the diff. If you have a lot of water you can pull the filler plug shortly after driving and stick a finger in it and if it comes out like a milkshake you've got water. A little water can end up at the bottom of the diff (water is heavier than oil) and not cause a serious issue, but then all you need is a little more to have a real problem. If it was only a couple of seconds you're probably OK though.

I usually air on the side of caution so I'll just get it changed, whether it's at a shop or at home, that all depends on what tomorrow has in store for me! Thanks for the tip and encouragement, need to be more willing to do my own work on the truck but its all daunting. The TRD Pro grill was a nice start ha!:help:

 

[TheBelafonte]

One more question here!

After going through a good bit of water, the only oil I should change would be the rear differential, is that correct? Do I need to worry about the Front Diff or the Transfer case? I'm reading that the other breathers are raised high enough and the rear is the main cause of concern.

Edit: Reason I ask is I think I can handle changing the rear diff oil but hesistant to try the other two. Getting them changed at the dealer will run me $400ish and they told me to just wait to see if I experience any symptoms.

Thanks!:sorry:

*Arb Breather shipped today*

 

[MossJenks]

Yeah, only the rear needs to be worried about.

$400 to change the transfer case and front diff?!?! I guess that's why they call it the Stealership!! I hate to recommend a quick-lube place to anyone, but I bet Jiffy-Lube would do it for well under $100.

 

[TheBelafonte]

Yeah, only the rear needs to be worried about.

$400 to change the transfer case and front diff?!?! I guess that's why they call it the Stealership!! I hate to recommend a quick-lube place to anyone, but I bet Jiffy-Lube would do it for well under $100.

Thanks Moss, was thinking about going to a spot like that at first before I remembered I now own a car under warranty. Still no dice though. Haven't driven much this week but will probably attempt to change the rear myself this weekend.

 

[MossJenks]

You don't have to have your vehicle maintained at the dealership to keep your warranty current.

 

[snif6969]

Just to bounce back on a message posted earlier on this thread:

I've heard about the ARB relocation kit, but it's the first time I hear about changing the actual breather.

What are the pros and cons of each one ? What's best ultimately?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[e60ral]

Just to bounce back on a message posted earlier on this thread:

I've heard about the ARB relocation kit, but it's the first time I hear about changing the actual breather.

What are the pros and cons of each one ? What's best ultimately?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i think you may have misunderstood

on the rear diff and elocker there isn't a breather (if by breather you mean a long tube to vent higher up), just a little one way valve to vent. the ARB kit or DIY kit adds tubing so you can vent to a location high enough to be above water

 

[b407driver]

i think you may have misunderstood

on the rear diff and elocker there isn't a breather (if by breather you mean a long tube to vent higher up), just a little one way valve to vent. the ARB kit or DIY kit adds tubing so you can vent to a location high enough to be above water

Not sure which post above he was referencing, but he may be referring to some people changing the '1-way' breather caps (i.e. venting only) to be '2-way'.