Dropzone's 1994 4Runner Expedition/Overland Build

[HanginInUtah]

It's been a few days since I worked on my old auto, but I believe you need to drop the sway bar down out of the way, and possibly the front driveshaft. I think I snuck the pan out and back in with the driveshaft in... but it may make life easier. I don't recall the actual location of the solenoids, if it will affect them or not.

 

[Dropzone]

It's been a few days since I worked on my old auto, but I believe you need to drop the sway bar down out of the way, and possibly the front driveshaft. I think I snuck the pan out and back in with the driveshaft in... but it may make life easier. I don't recall the actual location of the solenoids, if it will affect them or not.

Thanks for the heads up. That is useful info . I am on vacation next week so will help me budget my time

 

[Dropzone]

Been a little chilly, haven't decided to duck it up and lay out in the driveway to replace the solenoids yet.

The missus gAve me a tint job for Christmas. Got it done this afternoon. Should add some privacy for sleeping in the back when this thing finally hits the trail

Thought the sunset looked cool on the way home

 

[Dropzone]

Found a few amber LED pods in my stash. Decided to try an experiment with a set of my extra corner lights.
The pod is a 9w so minimal draw to the electrical system Plan is to wire them into the turn signals. Other drivers can really only see a 2nd Gen signal from the front, this will hopefully allow the signal to be noticed from the side

I tried the oven method for separating the housing and lens. 5 minutes at 225° worked but was a little too long. It wrinkles the plastichrome and warped the lens a bit

Lens and housing popped right apart

Sanded the housing and gave it shot of paint. Sealed it back up with silicone and clamped it down. Gonna let it sit over night to hopefully get a good seal. Should be able to wire it up in the morning
It will get another shot of paint, jumped the gun and got finger prints all over it

 

[HanginInUtah]

Is the paint to cover for the wrinkle in the chrome?

 

[Dropzone]

Is the paint to cover for the wrinkle in the chrome?

Yep, I sanded the housing down with 150 grit and got rid of the wrinkles.

Light test

 

[Dropzone]

Night shot of V1.0



I was so fixated on using amber I didn't even think about using a white LED. So I did a comparison.
...
anyway on to the passenger side aka V2.0
*I dropped the oven temp down to 210° for 6 minutes.*
That eliminates the wrinkles in the finish and no lens warping but reminded me of why I hate butyl adhesives*

Close up of the pods. *The amber is bolted in with a white one in for comparison

side by side with no lens

*amber

white
*
So looking at the output of 2.0 I will swap the driver's side V1.0 amber with a white LED

I'll get the passenger side wired up and see how they compare hopefully tomorrow if our weather doesn't turn to crap like the weather wizards are predicting

I know it would have been easier to have added an extra socket and bulb but had always wanted to experiment with separating a lens housing using the oven method. Pretty simple. May do a projector upgrade sometime

 

[RAD4Runner]

Turn Signal in Marker Light Housing

Nice!

... Other drivers can really only see a 2nd Gen signal from the front, this will hopefully allow the signal to be noticed from the side

Same problem with first-gen and many other vehicles. I added fender-mounted turn signals but I's also like to do this - and free up the bumper location of turn signals for a fog lights someday.

So how do you find the 9-watt light output? Is the blinking very noticeable at night with the marker light next to it on?

 

[Dropzone]

Nice!



Same problem with first-gen and many other vehicles. I added fender-mounted turn signals but I's also like to do this - and free up the bumper location of turn signals for a fog lights someday.

So how do you find the 9-watt light output? Is the blinking very noticeable at night with the marker light next to it on?

I based the 9 watt output on what the product info i found for a similar light pods I found on amazon.
The blinking is noticeable with the parking lot on. I guess I should upload a video to youtube, photobucket wasn't cooperating..I think the white LED will have better output.
I should order some new corner lights and do an upgraded version since all 3 sets of corner light I had have cracked lenses...

 

[RAD4Runner]

...I guess I should upload a video to youtube, photobucket wasn't cooperating...

Yep, Youtube seems to work much better. Just paste URL of video on post and it shows up right.

 

[Dropzone]

I have been having intermittent issues with the left rear window so I ordered a replacement regulator a few months ago. Tear the door apart to find out they send a passenger side regulator..
And too late to send it back..


So with that being a bust I started to tackle the tailgate. I could roll down the window but not open the tailgate.
This of course is a major PITA.
Started taking it apart, I was able to get it unlocked and the tailgate down.

Digging around I found a small broken spring that goes being the lock release pivot.

Ran out of daylight so threw it back together. Plan is to replace the broken spring with a coil spring.
Upside I can get the tailgate open now

 

[HanginInUtah]

I have been having intermittent issues with the left rear window so I ordered a replacement regulator a few months ago. Tear the door apart to find out they send a passenger side regulator..
And too late to send it back..

I would assume you've checked the wires for that one? Reason I say, is that I actually had a front right window issue that I figured was the regulator. I actually found two of them (separate trips) at the wrecking yard, and after all of that it was the wires where they go through the jamb. Wires were old, cracked, and open.

Best tool I ever bought for electrical is a Power Probe. They're a bit expensive, but that way you can put 12 volts to the motor to be sure it's good or bad. And my experience with intermittent windows is usually not the motor.

 

[Dropzone]

I would assume you've checked the wires for that one? Reason I say, is that I actually had a front right window issue that I figured was the regulator. I actually found two of them (separate trips) at the wrecking yard, and after all of that it was the wires where they go through the jamb. Wires were old, cracked, and open.

Best tool I ever bought for electrical is a Power Probe. They're a bit expensive, but that way you can put 12 volts to the motor to be sure it's good or bad. And my experience with intermittent windows is usually not the motor.

I like that Power Probe...B-day is coming up I may ask the missus for one.

I have power to both switches. Continuity seems good. I will pull the wiring loom cover and inspect the wires. I may break out my extra door from storage and see if it works and swap the regulator from that one.
I didn't wanna go that route so I would still have a complete door

 

[HanginInUtah]

I have power to both switches. Continuity seems good. I will pull the wiring loom cover and inspect the wires.

Check the operation as you yank on the harness. That's about all it should take. And, it may very well be the regulator. I'm just a lot more suspicious of the wiring on these older rides! :reddance:

 

[Dropzone]

Check the operation as you yank on the harness. That's about all it should take. And, it may very well be the regulator. I'm just a lot more suspicious of the wiring on these older rides! :reddance:

I agree it could be wiring. That is one reason I retired my Trekker, the wiring had been hacked by so many previous owner. That and a cracked frame that I had patched a couple of times let to this 'new' project. I only paid $400 for it so a few issues were to be expected.

 

[Dropzone]

After 23 years the factory stripes were faded and chips, especially the passenger side.
I had tried heat gun and goof off when I saw a thread some where about a drill powered adhesive remover. Watch some video on YouTube and decided to order one for $10 off amazon

After a couple of hours it looked like this

Driver side before

Passenger side before

Testing it, makes a poop ton of dust


About 2 or 3 hours I was done


Pretty happy with the outcome for $10 and an afternoon

 

[Dropzone]

Well looks like Project Recycle is gonna take a major step forward in the next few weeks:bounce:
Just got off the phone with [MENTION=134144]1UZrunner[/MENTION] and talked with him about doing the SAS on this POS, the truck will be heading down his way to have him work his magic and fix it so some 35's can get stuffed into the fenderwells...pretty stoked.
This thing will actually be able to hit some trails in the near future.

 

[Dropzone]

forgot that I am gonna need to swap oil pans.
this is the only list I can find so far (from a 15 year old post on pirate, with 15 year old prices)

Oil Pan $125 --auto zone $120 Best Oil Pan Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs
12101-65030
other stuff looks I will order from
Plate (windage tray/baffle) $30
12122-62040
Strainer (pickup tube) $30
15104-62060
Gasket (for pickup tube) $2-3
15147-62020
Dipstick $15
15301-62060
Guide Tube $20
11452-62060
Guide Tube Union $5
9040510033
__________________
looking at prices from a few places online it looks like i can get the parts for about $250...hopefully order them in the next couple of days

 

[Dropzone]

This should give the front end a little better protection and give me a place to stuff the winch i got for Christmas 3 years ago
​​​​​​​

 

[Dropzone]

Swapped bumpers
Stock

Trail Gear Bumper

Need to figure out some different turn signals