Dual batteries setup need help please !

calcrc

New member
So I am finnaly doing the cheap batteries setup and I am blocked at the part from the solenoid to the fuse boxe. Can someone tell me to wich fuse I need to connect the 3rd wire please. Here is a pic. Thank you
 

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So I am finnaly doing the cheap batteries setup and I am blocked at the part from the solenoid to the fuse boxe. Can someone tell me to wich fuse I need to connect the 3rd wire please. Here is a pic. Thank you


I believe you need to select a fuse slot that is only HOT when the engine is running so as not to connect the batteries while the engine is NOT running. So find a slot where when the engine is off it is not powered, and where the engine is on it is powered. That should get you what you want. Unless you want the aux battery able to connect to the main or vice versa while the vehicle is sitting (which i wouldnt recommend because it may leave you stranded one day...)

I would recommend getting a fuse tap and using appropriately sized fuses in the slot you selected via the method above. Then connect the wire to the fuse tap and the solenoid and you should be in business


:hippie:
 
I *Think* the one I used is the 7.5 amp on the bottom left corner. It has something to do with fuel if I recall, but you're only drawing a few milliamps so it hasn't caused any issues. make sure you use a fuse tap and the appropriate (small/2amp) fuse.
 
Thanks guys but I think I will need baby steps and some pictures because I have no idea how to chose a fuse :/

And I dont want to burn or short circuit some fancy electronics.

From the fuse diagram if someone can point me the correct fuse to wire that solenoid it would be so much appreciated :)
 
Thanks guys but I think I will need baby steps and some pictures because I have no idea how to chose a fuse :/

And I dont want to burn or short circuit some fancy electronics.

From the fuse diagram if someone can point me the correct fuse to wire that solenoid it would be so much appreciated :)

Hi calcrc,

A fuse tap is just an 'Add-a-Circuit fuse' like the one pictured below: 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fu... | eBay

s-l225.jpg


Just like [MENTION=115953]HerT4R[/MENTION] stated above, select a fuse in the fusebox that is de-energized when the vehicle is off. If you can't find an intermittent (HOT when IGN is on) fuse, then select one in the driverside fusebox. Remove the fuse that you've selected, insert the new fuse holder in the contact slot. The fuse on the bottom row (near the male contacts) is where the factory fuse goes. The one on the top is your new circuit. Be sure to choose a small amperage fuse to run the solenoid e.g., 3A at most! 'Best to you',

rig
 
Last edited:
Alright cool, I will do this today :)

Let me know which would be best, I am by no means electronically inclined as you can see :/ thank you for holding my hand, just want this to be done right.


Fuse Ampere rating [A] Circuit
1 PTC HTR NO.3 30 PTC heater
2 DEF 30 Rear window defogger
3 DEICER 20 Windshield wiper de-icer -------------------------------------I was thinking on this fuse ?-------------------------Thoughts.
4 PTC HTR NO.2 30 PTC heater
5 SUB BATT 30 Trailer sub battery
6 PTC HTR NO.1 10 PTC heater
7 MIR HTR 10 Outside rear view mirror defoggers
8 TOWING TAIL 30 Trailer tail light
9 A/C COMP 10 Air conditioning system
10 STOP 10 Stop/tail lights
11 IG2 20 INJ, IGN, GAUGE fuses
12 HORN 10 Horn(s)
13 EFI 25 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injectionsystem
14 A/F 20 A/F sensor
15 H-LP RH-HI 10 Right-hand headlight (high beam)
16 H-LP LH-HI 10 Left-hand headlight (high beam)
17 HTR 50 Air conditioning system
18 400W INV 80 Power outlets
19 ST 30 Starter system
20 H-LP HI 20 H-LP RH-HI, H-LP LH-HI fuses
21 ALT-S 7,5 Charging system
22 TURN&HAZ 15 Turn signal lights, emergency flashers
23 ETCS 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
24 TOWING 30 Trailer stop/turn lights
25 SHORT PIN — No circuit
25 RAD NO.1 10 Audio system
27 AM2 7,5 Starter system
28 MAYDAY 7,5 Safety connect
29 AMP 30 Audio system
30 ABS NO.1 50 ABS, VSC
31 ABS NO.2 30 ABS, VSC
32 AIR PMP 50 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system-------------------------------------------------or this one ?!? -----------------------------------
33 DOME 10 Interior lights, vanity lights
34 ECU-B 10 Multiplex communication system, meter and gauge
35 H-LP RH-LO 10 Right-hand headlight (low beam)
36 H-LP LH-LO 10 Left-hand headlight (low beam)
37 INJ 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system------------------------------------------------------contender 3 ---------------------------------------
38 EFI NO.2 7,5 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
39 ALT 120 HTR, 400W INV, A/C COMP, TOWING TAIL, SUB BATT, MIR HTR, DEF, DEICER, STOP, PTC HTR NO.1, PTC
HTR NO.2, PTC HTR NO.3, S/HTR FR, ACC, P/OUTLET, IG1, ECU-IG NO.1, ECU-IG NO.2, WIP, WASHER, KDSS, 4WD, BKUP LP, TOWING BKUP, DOOR P, DOOR RL, DOOR RR, DOOR D, P/SEAT FL, P/SEAT FR, DOOR, A/C, OBD, DOOR BACK, S/ROOF, PANEL, TAIL, FOG FR, D/L NO.2 fuses
140
40 SPARE 10 —
41 SPARE 15 —
42 SPARE 20 —
43 P/I-B 80 IG2, EFI, A/F, HORN fuses
44 SECURITY 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
45 SMART 7,5 Smart key system
46 STRG LOCK 20 Steering lock system
47 TOWING BRK 30 Trailer brake controller
 
Last edited:
Alright cool, I will do this today :)

Let me know which would be best, I am by no means electronically inclined as you can see :/ thank you for holding my hand, just want this to be done right.


Fuse Ampere rating [A] Circuit
1 PTC HTR NO.3 30 PTC heater
2 DEF 30 Rear window defogger
3 DEICER 20 Windshield wiper de-icer -------------------------------------I was thinking on this fuse ?-------------------------Thoughts.
4 PTC HTR NO.2 30 PTC heater
5 SUB BATT 30 Trailer sub battery
6 PTC HTR NO.1 10 PTC heater
7 MIR HTR 10 Outside rear view mirror defoggers
8 TOWING TAIL 30 Trailer tail light
9 A/C COMP 10 Air conditioning system
10 STOP 10 Stop/tail lights
11 IG2 20 INJ, IGN, GAUGE fuses
12 HORN 10 Horn(s)
13 EFI 25 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injectionsystem
14 A/F 20 A/F sensor
15 H-LP RH-HI 10 Right-hand headlight (high beam)
16 H-LP LH-HI 10 Left-hand headlight (high beam)
17 HTR 50 Air conditioning system
18 400W INV 80 Power outlets
19 ST 30 Starter system
20 H-LP HI 20 H-LP RH-HI, H-LP LH-HI fuses
21 ALT-S 7,5 Charging system
22 TURN&HAZ 15 Turn signal lights, emergency flashers
23 ETCS 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
24 TOWING 30 Trailer stop/turn lights
25 SHORT PIN — No circuit
25 RAD NO.1 10 Audio system
27 AM2 7,5 Starter system
28 MAYDAY 7,5 Safety connect
29 AMP 30 Audio system
30 ABS NO.1 50 ABS, VSC
31 ABS NO.2 30 ABS, VSC
32 AIR PMP 50 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system-------------------------------------------------or this one ?!? -----------------------------------
33 DOME 10 Interior lights, vanity lights
34 ECU-B 10 Multiplex communication system, meter and gauge
35 H-LP RH-LO 10 Right-hand headlight (low beam)
36 H-LP LH-LO 10 Left-hand headlight (low beam)
37 INJ 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system------------------------------------------------------contender 3 ---------------------------------------
38 EFI NO.2 7,5 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
39 ALT 120 HTR, 400W INV, A/C COMP, TOWING TAIL, SUB BATT, MIR HTR, DEF, DEICER, STOP, PTC HTR NO.1, PTC
HTR NO.2, PTC HTR NO.3, S/HTR FR, ACC, P/OUTLET, IG1, ECU-IG NO.1, ECU-IG NO.2, WIP, WASHER, KDSS, 4WD, BKUP LP, TOWING BKUP, DOOR P, DOOR RL, DOOR RR, DOOR D, P/SEAT FL, P/SEAT FR, DOOR, A/C, OBD, DOOR BACK, S/ROOF, PANEL, TAIL, FOG FR, D/L NO.2 fuses
140
40 SPARE 10 —
41 SPARE 15 —
42 SPARE 20 —
43 P/I-B 80 IG2, EFI, A/F, HORN fuses
44 SECURITY 10 Multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system
45 SMART 7,5 Smart key system
46 STRG LOCK 20 Steering lock system
47 TOWING BRK 30 Trailer brake controller



Bump
 
I believe [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] did an extensive test of all the fuses in the box under the hood and discovered there is NOT one that satisfies the requirement of only being on when the key is on. (sucks)

To get a correct one you need to go through the firewall into the box inside the cab by the drivers knee. That is what I did as well, as I could not find one under the hood either.

I'm about 3000 miles from my 4runner at the moment or I would go out and check which one I used. IF I remember correctly there are 2 or 3 to choose from inside.
 
I believe [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] did an extensive test of all the fuses in the box under the hood and discovered there is NOT one that satisfies the requirement of only being on when the key is on. (sucks)

To get a correct one you need to go through the firewall into the box inside the cab by the drivers knee. That is what I did as well, as I could not find one under the hood either.

This is correct. The engine compartment fuse block is designed much like the breaker panel in your house. There are a couple of 12V bus bars around the outside edge that are connected directly to the battery. The fuses then tap into these bars and provide power to the various downstream circuits, so the fuses are alway "on".

There are relays in the engine fuse block that are switched by the ignition switch. Unfortunately, it is harder to cleanly tap into the output or coil drive of a relay - those "add a circuit" fuse adapters don't exist for relays as far as I know.
 
Honestly just save yourself a headache and get this. I went through the same dual battery dilemma and since I'm an electrical idiot and need things spelt out for me I went with a kit from off grid engineering that uses the blue sea ml-acr. It's pricey no doubt but takes the guess work out. Since you probably have all the parts I would just add a smart dual battery isolator like the redarc. Redarc is going to be a big player in North America soon but they are a big name is Australia. Made in Australia too.

https://www.redarc.com.au/dual-sense-smart-start-sbi-12v-100a

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Alright cool, I will do this today :)

Let me know which would be best, I am by no means electronically inclined as you can see :/ thank you for holding my hand, just want this to be done right.

3 DEICER 20 Windshield wiper de-icer -------------------------------------I was thinking on this fuse ?-------------------------Thoughts.
4 PTC HTR NO.2 30 PTC heater
5 SUB BATT 30 Trailer sub battery
6 PTC HTR NO.1 10 PTC heater
7 MIR HTR 10 Outside rear view mirror defoggers
8 TOWING TAIL 30 Trailer tail light

Hi calcrc,

Any one of these would be fine; HI amperage fuses use bigger wiring underneath the panel, which make them better candidates to use than some of the smaller fuses; all of these will be good!

rig, cheers
 
Honestly just save yourself a headache and get this. I went through the same dual battery dilemma and since I'm an electrical idiot and need things spelt out for me I went with a kit from off grid engineering that uses the blue sea ml-acr. It's pricey no doubt but takes the guess work out. Since you probably have all the parts I would just add a smart dual battery isolator like the redarc. Redarc is going to be a big player in North America soon but they are a big name is Australia. Made in Australia too.

https://www.redarc.com.au/dual-sense-smart-start-sbi-12v-100a

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

That looks like it might be a good option. I went a different route with my setup and created this thread. So far it works great.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/243334-another-dual-battery-setup.html
 
Hi calcrc,

Any one of these would be fine; HI amperage fuses use bigger wiring underneath the panel, which make them better candidates to use than some of the smaller fuses; all of these will be good!

rig, cheers



Thank you all very much guys for this, I think I will go with rigtec as he is a senior member lol !

But seriously all of you helped me so much, I really learned a couple of things since I made this thread and I would like to add, that if I buy the pieces you guys offered it won't be an ++On the Cheap setup++ !


Cheers
 
There are some big differences between the ML-ACR and the Redarc. I would recommend carefully reading though the differences before making that investment.
 
I believe [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] did an extensive test of all the fuses in the box under the hood and discovered there is NOT one that satisfies the requirement of only being on when the key is on. (sucks)

To get a correct one you need to go through the firewall into the box inside the cab by the drivers knee. That is what I did as well, as I could not find one under the hood either.

I'm about 3000 miles from my 4runner at the moment or I would go out and check which one I used. IF I remember correctly there are 2 or 3 to choose from inside.

Simply not true, I tested and found atleast 2. No need to go through the firewall. Like I said the 7.5 amp fuse on the bottom left hand corner of his photo is what he's looking for.
 
Last edited:
That looks like it might be a good option. I went a different route with my setup and created this thread. So far it works great.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/243334-another-dual-battery-setup.html

There are some big differences between the ML-ACR and the Redarc. I would recommend carefully reading though the differences before making that investment.

Yep, so many ways to skin a cat on this one. Just depends on what you're looking for and budget obviously. Your setup looks great though!!!
 

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