Dual Battery System not working

[LXRunner]

You have to disconnect from isolator the small red wire, that comes from switch, which on the dash. Then just extend that wire to some point in fusebox, which has +12v ONLY when IGNITION turned ON. Maybe, you can run that wire directly from switch to under dash fusebox. In that case it will not go throw firewall...

 

[LXRunner]

LXRunner, where is the "power ONLY" point?
View attachment 127397

From that picture:
The RED wire from "Grey Control Harness" should not go to "RELAY".
You have to connect it to IGNITION wire or fuse

 

[LXRunner]

OK, boodabill,

I think, good place to connect red wire from switch is lower dash fusebox (on driver side).
If you will access it, you should see 10A "IGN" and 7.5A "GAUGE" fuses somewere on bottom left side. You can tap red wire to ether one !

 

[LXRunner]

I don't have a continuity tester, was going to take it into Toyota for that. But meanwhile, LXRunner thinks the wiring is wrong and always hot, thus draining the batteries...

I didn't say that "wiring is wrong", but using that way will drain both batteries throw relay solenoid coil any time WHEN engine is OFF and in same time Battery Switch is ON (Relay engaged) op2:

 

[Ducmonsta]

I think what's misleading is that we can't see the rest of the harness. If it's like the Kodiak system, there should be an additional wire that comes off of that "grey" harness. That is the wire that gets attached to a 12v ignition only source. This is the wire that has a small inline fuse already attached. This wire is the one that should go to the interior fuse box. If this wire is attached to a constant 12v source then what [MENTION=99287]LXRunner[/MENTION] is saying (draining both batteries) will happen.

 

[ur2ez22]

Mind posting up a picture of your entire engine bay to see how things are configured under there?

 

[LXRunner]

I think what's misleading is that we can't see the rest of the harness. If it's like the Kodiak system, there should be an additional wire that comes off of that "grey" harness. That is the wire that gets attached to a 12v ignition only source. This is the wire that has a small inline fuse already attached. This wire is the one that should go to the interior fuse box. If this wire is attached to a constant 12v source then what [MENTION=99287]LXRunner[/MENTION] is saying (draining both batteries) will happen.

In post #38, boodabill explained, that wire is below the big one on lower side..., and soooo, per his diagram it's permanently connected to battery positive terminal....

 

[Ducmonsta]

Fir the record, I have the Kodiak system. I'm assuming they are the same design based on this products description.

There are supposed to be a total of three wires attached to the solenoid. There is a forth wire at the opposite end of the harness that is supposed to be connected to the 12v ign source. Mine looks like this. Not my Jeep by the way!


According to the wiring schematic the op provided, there is no 4th wire. Which is the part I don't understand. Something needs to trigger the relay.

 

[LXRunner]

I think it,s clear from diagram on post #40:

One of the pin on Relay is "bolted" to Ground, and in same time provides Ground to light up Switch LED by Black wire. The other pin on Relay gets +12 from switch (when it,s ON) by white wire. Red wire serves to apply +12 to the switch - preferably from IGNITION fuse (but it's not.....per diagram :sorry: ).

 

[LXRunner]

Ducmonsta, I guess 4th wire is needed for Jeeps only,
they look more reliable that way

 

[boodabill]

Here is a photo of all the wiring on my relay. Also, in about 12 hours the power in each battery has gone down from 12.17 to 12.0. It's still draining, and unless i start the car it will be gone in a about a week. guess i'm damaging my batteries...

 

[boodabill]

Close up of relay below. Can someone kindly sum up what people we think the problem and solution is?


The small red wire is on the factory positive terminal, although it's on the top, not the bottom. Does that matter? In other words, looking at the diag. below, 1 an 2 are switched.

 

[Ducmonsta]

Close up of relay below. Can someone kindly sum up what people we think the problem and solution is?


The small red wire is on the factory positive terminal, although it's on the top, not the bottom. Does that matter? In other words, looking at the diag. below, 1 an 2 are switched.

Yes it matters. Switching 1 and 2, effectively switches which battery is the aux and which one is the main.

 

[gshadow325]

I don't have a continuity tester, was going to take it into Toyota for that. But meanwhile, LXRunner thinks the wiring is wrong and always hot, thus draining the batteries...

LXRunner, where is the "power ONLY" point?
View attachment 127397

where did this picture come from? you are posting things that are confusing the hell out of all those that want to help you.

When problems occur I would call and ask the shop to check it out. I would not call and complain and start pointing fingers at the installation facility. This tactic probably will get you no where. I know when customers do that to me, I am less inclined to offer my help.

back on topic

ground and ignition is usually interchangeable. it just needs to see opposite conditions. if ignition post has 12 volt positive then the ground would be negative or vice versa.

grab a test light. while the car is off see what posts you get power.

you should get power 12 volt on battery 1 and 2. nothing on ignition wire and ground wire.

while the car is turned on, you should have 12volt power on only one of the small posts.

if you have power on one of the smaller posts while the car is OFF, then remove that wire. then retest to see if that post has power. if it does then relay is bad. if it doesnt, check for power on that wire that was attached to the small post. if it has power then that wire needs to be rewired to a switched 12 volt power source.

"thank you for calling tech support, please fill out the survey after this phone call"

LOL

Did you do what i posted above? I see you have a meter. use it to run the test i told you to do above.

post your findings. this will tell us what is wrong with your truck's wiring.

 

[Ducmonsta]

Looking more closely at the "dirty parts" system, it is identical to the Kodiak. Your switch is labeled, from left to right, dual on-off-emer on. Is that correct?

With the truck off, the solenoid will only click when the switch is set to emer on.
With the truck on, the solenoid will click when moved to any position.

I need you to determine if this is what's happening. Or pm me for my phone number so that I can walk you through the process of elimination.

 

[LXRunner]

Yes it matters. Switching 1 and 2, effectively switches which battery is the aux and which one is the main.

In that particular case it does not matter, because any way red wire becomes hot at any time from one of the batteries, and may drain current throw solenoid if Battery switch is left in ON position, no matter what is Ignition key position.

And I explained that in previous posts, as well with explanation how to fix it.

Best way to confirm that: Take you car on the road and run for some time with Battery switch ON. Then stop and turn OFF ignition, disconnect small red wire from Relay. Nothing should drain any battery at that point. If it does, then Relay is bad.

 

[boodabill]

<<I do hear a click when switching between settings when the car is not running.>> from post #26 :

Assuming that all parts are good and wiring is correct,
I can see that RED wire coming from switch is connected the way it,s HOT all time.
In that case, if you will park your car with switch in ON position, the battery isolator solenoid still engaged and will drain both batteries, taken current
up to 0.5 amp (approximately). In other word, it will drain your batteries up to 12 A/Hr each day.

To correct the problem, RED wire from switch should be connected to the point that has power ONLY when IGNITION turned ON.

According to Larry at Dirty parts this is incorrect:

Bill -

The advice given from the 4Runner forum is absolutely incorrect, and will defeat the purpose of the three position switch – please follow the schematic I sent you which shows where each wire should be connected on the relay – the red harness wire connects to the auxilliary battery cable terminal, and does have power all the time, but it does not connect the batteries until the Emer On mode is activated, and does not drain either until that switch is in the Emer On position.

The switch should be in the Dual On position all the time, and the power for that circuit, the green wire with red strip in the underdash fuse panel, should only have power with the key on.

Larry

 

[boodabill]

Yes it matters. Switching 1 and 2, effectively switches which battery is the aux and which one is the main.

Someone posted that: "ground and ignition is usually interchangeable."

I could try switching them and see what happens...

 

[boodabill]

Looking more closely at the "dirty parts" system, it is identical to the Kodiak. Your switch is labeled, from left to right, dual on-off-emer on. Is that correct?

With the truck off, the solenoid will only click when the switch is set to emer on.
With the truck on, the solenoid will click when moved to any position.

I need you to determine if this is what's happening. Or pm me for my phone number so that I can walk you through the process of elimination.

Yes, like the Kodiak Dual On -Dual off- Emer.

I'm getting clicks with car off when moving through all settings.

 

[boodabill]

In that particular case it does not matter, because any way red wire becomes hot at any time from one of the batteries, and may drain current throw solenoid if Battery switch is left in ON position, no matter what is Ignition key position.

And I explained that in previous posts, as well with explanation how to fix it.

Best way to confirm that: Take you car on the road and run for some time with Battery switch ON. Then stop and turn OFF ignition, disconnect small red wire from Relay. Nothing should drain any battery at that point. If it does, then Relay is bad.

Ok this seems like a simple test for the relay and saves me from testing every fuse for short circuits etc. I must have missed your earlier solutions in all the posts going on.