nevada
Senior Member
yes, im sure it can be done.
Ive only got about $50 into mine. that might be a little high, its been in for a lot of years. basically just a HD solenoid, a toggle switch and a bit of wire. simple, cheap and affective.
Dual Battery Systems
- Thread starter DannyLlama
- Start date
yes, im sure it can be done.
Ive only got about $50 into mine. that might be a little high, its been in for a lot of years. basically just a HD solenoid, a toggle switch and a bit of wire. simple, cheap and affective.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Was going to ask you how long you have been running this setup.
Thanks for the review. I like this type of setup because when parts go bad, individual parts can be replaced and not the entire system.
nevada
Senior Member
I would guess its been close to 10 years. ive used it for some HEAVY winching many times.
with the v8, im running several electric fans, so there is a constant heavy draw, plus heavy winching and lights, the dual battery system gets USED.
other than MY mistake of leaving the switch on, I haven't had a single problem with it.
just a few months ago I left my OBA on for a few days, so basically keeping the AC clutch engaged. when I went out to start the truck it was COMPLETELY dead, no beeps/bells/whistles/lights, NOTHING.
I simply flipped the switch, and started the truck. it started like nothing was wrong. VERY nice.
Ducmonsta
New member
We have the same system and I feel that I should correct this statement. With the switch set to "EMER ON" both batteries are linked no matter what (key in ignition or not). So if you have a parasitic draw, it WILL drain both batteries. In all other situations, the batteries are isolated when the vehicle is off.
bimrunner
New member
Excellent point [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION]! Thanks for pointing that out. Forgot about that.
DannyLlama
Elite Member
I made some updates to the first page and I added battery tray options. If anyone has info to add, please let me know so I can make updates.
nglayton
Senior Member
Just found this this morning after replying to your PM. Very nice thread! I'm not sure how I missed it before. I sent you the link to the Dual batteries on the Cheap thread I used for my system, with a couple of cheap add-on ways to monitor it.
Last edited:
nglayton
Senior Member
DannyLlama
Elite Member
matoolie
New member
Danny,
Update on the Westin T-max. I found a serious design fault in the system, at least I think, that has me upset and requiring a change or modification.
I opened the garage door this morning to remote start the 4Runner. No dice. No flashing vehicle lights when I pushed button on transmitter. Right then pretty sure main vehicle battery was dead. Went outside and sure enough completely dead. No door locks. No dome light. Nothing. I looked at t-max controller and it said aux battery voltage OK but main battery did not register, which means below 11vdc. I pushed the button on the controller to link the two batteries together to start and make vehicle functional and no change. Nothing.
After troubleshooting and evaluating here was my situation:
1. Main battery had a bad cell and was at 6vdc.
2. I could not connect the good aux battery at 13+vdc with controller to start vehicle.
3. The controller is powered by the main battery only. I found this out when I removed the main battery for replacement and the controller was completely dead.
4. My assumption based on above........the controller and/or solenoid require minimum voltage above 6vdc on main battery to function.
5. I checked the install instructions and it states supply voltage is 8-16vdc.
6. Based on above, it seems the system is nonfunctional below 8vdc. I emailed Westin with this question and waiting on verification.
I like the idea I can normally push a button on the controller to connect aux. battery when main is "dead" to start. Say below 11vdc, but above 8vdc. BUT......I am pissed the system as designed does not function when a cell goes bad in main battery and thus leaving vehicle dead. Unacceptable!!
Update on the Westin T-max. I found a serious design fault in the system, at least I think, that has me upset and requiring a change or modification.
I opened the garage door this morning to remote start the 4Runner. No dice. No flashing vehicle lights when I pushed button on transmitter. Right then pretty sure main vehicle battery was dead. Went outside and sure enough completely dead. No door locks. No dome light. Nothing. I looked at t-max controller and it said aux battery voltage OK but main battery did not register, which means below 11vdc. I pushed the button on the controller to link the two batteries together to start and make vehicle functional and no change. Nothing.
After troubleshooting and evaluating here was my situation:
1. Main battery had a bad cell and was at 6vdc.
2. I could not connect the good aux battery at 13+vdc with controller to start vehicle.
3. The controller is powered by the main battery only. I found this out when I removed the main battery for replacement and the controller was completely dead.
4. My assumption based on above........the controller and/or solenoid require minimum voltage above 6vdc on main battery to function.
5. I checked the install instructions and it states supply voltage is 8-16vdc.
6. Based on above, it seems the system is nonfunctional below 8vdc. I emailed Westin with this question and waiting on verification.
I like the idea I can normally push a button on the controller to connect aux. battery when main is "dead" to start. Say below 11vdc, but above 8vdc. BUT......I am pissed the system as designed does not function when a cell goes bad in main battery and thus leaving vehicle dead. Unacceptable!!
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Thanks, updated.
GunnerRunner
New member
Wow thanks for all the information! This is great. I'm definitely going to be referring to this when it comes time to "armor up" lol. Corny
JSparky
New member
Several of us are running the Blue Sea auto charging relay, may consider adding that in. Shrockworks also makes a tray for it that fits 10-15 models but may or
may not fit in 16+.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/76...rging_Relay_with_Manual_Control_-_12V_DC_500A
ACR and Fuse Mounting Tray
DannyLlama
Elite Member
Write up links?
Keith_PDX
New member
Feel free to reference mine using the Blue Sea voltage sensing relay's. I have had zero issues with the system and recommend it to anyone looking for this type of solution. Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/201689-2015-dual-battery-installation.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/201689-2015-dual-battery-installation.html
Keith_PDX
New member
This is why the Bluesea relays have a manual operator, just for this very reason.
Bumbo
New member
The manual operator is great for things like manually combining two healthy cells, but in automatic mode it should "lock out" combining of those two batteries if one cell was at 6v.
Point being its a form of protection... if you are stranded and manually combine a healthy battery with a bad cell like that you run the risk of bringing down the healthy cell and really screwing the pooch.
If that happened to me... I would 1. get that battery replaced ASAP with a new unit before combining.
Or 2, if stranded and needed to start the truck, I would pop the hood and physically move the house battery to the starter side. Assuming you dont have isolation switches (1 or 2, 1+2 switching).
Bottom line... that 6v cell needs to come out.
I would never force combine / manually combine a healthy cell with a bad one. Not worth the risk off-grid as all the fresh battery current is going to equalize into the bad pack running the risk of simply flattening the good battery.
Point being its a form of protection... if you are stranded and manually combine a healthy battery with a bad cell like that you run the risk of bringing down the healthy cell and really screwing the pooch.
If that happened to me... I would 1. get that battery replaced ASAP with a new unit before combining.
Or 2, if stranded and needed to start the truck, I would pop the hood and physically move the house battery to the starter side. Assuming you dont have isolation switches (1 or 2, 1+2 switching).
Bottom line... that 6v cell needs to come out.
I would never force combine / manually combine a healthy cell with a bad one. Not worth the risk off-grid as all the fresh battery current is going to equalize into the bad pack running the risk of simply flattening the good battery.
matoolie
New member
The system did its job of not letting the bad battery at 6V drain the good aux. battery at full voltage. I found a very simple solution I believe compared to moving batteries, or completely faulting the design of the system.
The solenoid that combines the batteries is powered by the main battery, which is more likely to go bad. The connection is a short wire from the main battery connection at solenoid fro power to the relay side of the solenoid. I will simply move the short wire connection from the main battery to the aux. battery for power as the aux. battery less likely to be drained in my normal usage. This will prevent the above from happening.
With this change:
If the main battery is good.......normal every day operation.
If main goes bad/dead......solenoid will function off good aux. battery and vehicle will start with aux. and not stranded
If aux goes bad/dead......vehicle still starts from good main and not stranded.
In all cases, allow vehicle to be driven, get new battery, and replace bad one ASAP, which I agree needs to be done.
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