Dual Battery Wire Route - Any issues following smog pump route between rad & eng

kags1969

New member
2016 4runner Trail.

I am working on my dual battery setup. Going to use shrockworks tray to mount solenoid and fuse on drivers side.

I am thinking about routing the cables along the same route as the smog pump air routing tube which runs between the engine and radiator. High temp loom and zip tied to smog loom.

Has anyone done this ? Any potential issues?

My second choice would be to route under the upper radiator support. Just trying to keep runs short and simple.
 
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[MENTION=146757]kags1969[/MENTION]
I was thinking the same placement when I was putting in my aux. battery a few weeks ago, but didnt like having it so close. I routed the wires around the back of the engine bay and down through the firewall into the cabin.
 
I ran my wires underneath the upper radiator support when I did my dual battery setup with the Shrockworks tray. I have been running my system for over a year now and it has performed flawlessly. There is plenty of space and the wire is very easy to secure. This drastically limits the amount of wire that is visible in the engine compartment. I did a lot of research on dual battery setups before my install. Not to boast, but mine is one of the cleanest and most factory looking dual battery configurations I have seen to date. I'll have to post a picture at some point.
 
[MENTION=144552]MasterBlaster[/MENTION], would love to see pics and/or a full write up when you have the time.


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Running along the firewall is much safer in the event of a front end collision. That's why you don't see any factory wires running along the rad support.
 
Dual Battery Wire Route - Any issues following smog pump route between rad & eng

I also ran mine under the radiator support but, to acknowledge Antman's valid concern, it's fused with a 300A fuse on both ends in case of accident or short.

b94f85e5e25b685e4a4d50c85ddad798.jpg

37fcae7f6f20512fd0e89f1766f7a0ba.jpg


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Running along the firewall is much safer in the event of a front end collision. That's why you don't see any factory wires running along the rad support.

I ran my positive from factory battery to 2nd batter along the firewall, but the negative along the radiator support (grounded 2nd battery back to factory battery). Both cables are fused. I had multiple people tell me this was safe, do you have any thoughts on this?

Sorry OP not to hijack, but while I got Atman's attention I wanted to ask.
 
2016 4runner Trail.

I am working on my dual battery setup. Going to use shrockworks tray to mount solenoid and fuse on drivers side.

I am thinking about routing the cables along the same route as the smog pump air routing tube which runs between the engine and radiator. High temp loom and zip tied to smog loom.

Has anyone done this ? Any potential issues?

My second choice would be to route under the upper radiator support. Just trying to keep runs short and simple.

FYI, on the 2016+ Toyota changed an AC hard-line that that prohibited me from running a relay on that Shrockworks tray. You may want to call them with the dimensions of the solenoid you want to run to make sure it fits. I tried to fit a Blue Sea ACR there and it wouldn't fit without bending the AC line which I didn't want to do. I may be able to dig up photos if interested.
 
I ran my positive from factory battery to 2nd batter along the firewall, but the negative along the radiator support (grounded 2nd battery back to factory battery). Both cables are fused. I had multiple people tell me this was safe, do you have any thoughts on this?

Sorry OP not to hijack, but while I got Atman's attention I wanted to ask.

That sounds good to me- though I really don't see any need to fuse a negative cable ( I know the arguments behind it).
 
FYI, on the 2016+ Toyota changed an AC hard-line that that prohibited me from running a relay on that Shrockworks tray. You may want to call them with the dimensions of the solenoid you want to run to make sure it fits. I tried to fit a Blue Sea ACR there and it wouldn't fit without bending the AC line which I didn't want to do. I may be able to dig up photos if interested.

Thanks for all the good discussion!

I would be interested in that photo... I just ordered that tray and I will be running a simple solenoid setup from the $50 Dual Battery Setup thread. I will post up if I have issues fitting it.

My plan is just to use the second battery for my fridge and CPAP machine.

Kags
 
Thanks for all the good discussion!

I would be interested in that photo... I just ordered that tray and I will be running a simple solenoid setup from the $50 Dual Battery Setup thread. I will post up if I have issues fitting it.

My plan is just to use the second battery for my fridge and CPAP machine.

Kags

Nice, I love technology. For a smaller solenoid you can probably make it work, the relay I was trying to fit there is the size of a small brick. I'll look for those pics.
 
Found it in a communication with Shrockworks, you can see that the tray needs to shift over to the left to fit into its intended place on the factory battery tray. This works on earlier 5th gens but not on the 2016's. It's a Blue Sea ML-ACR #7622 if you want to compare its dimensions to your solenoid. You could potentially drill new holes and mount the solenoid elsewhere on the tray. It's a great unit, built very nice, just didn't fit unfortunately.
 

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Sorry new at this forum stuff... [MENTION=110651]reidbailey[/MENTION] This is one of the cleanest DB setups I have seen. Can you please share all the items/parts you used?
 
Dual Battery Wire Route - Any issues following smog pump route between rad & eng

Sorry new at this forum stuff... [MENTION=110651]reidbailey[/MENTION] This is one of the cleanest DB setups I have seen. Can you please share all the items/parts you used?


I don't have a list of exact part numbers but I can point you in the general direction:

Shrockworks - dual battery tray, battery/winch switch + mount and ACR mount
BlueSea - Circuit breakers, fuses and holders, ACR, battery meter (To keep tabs on the house battery when the compressor is running but comes on when the hood is open)
ProWireUSA - Raychem DR-25 heat shrink, Deutsch connectors, Tefzel battery wire and primary wire, Thomas & Betts Ty-Rap cable ties and ring terminals plus other misc parts
Odyssey - 34M PC1500 Battery (will replace start battery with an Odyssey when it dies out of warranty)
Wirecare - for expandable sleeving and misc parts
Waytek- Bussman box and parts to build including Metri Pack connectors and terminals, manual resettable circuit breakers and other misc parts
SwitchPro- 8100
CTEK - MULTI 7002 charger and flush plugin
Anchor - marine terminals with heat shrink
McMaster - Bolts, screws and misc hardware

You can see a few more of the components in these pics:
7b846c00f2557e38cdcc06130964353a.jpg
d0b283a77ad94e1ce5e1f27d7d39e077.jpg


Hope this helps!


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Great job, real clean, I am presently doing the same set up but for powering a LiFe bank in my trailer. The question I have is where did you pick up the ignition switch input for the ACR? I was hoping there was an open fuse I could tap off of.

I wish I saw the battery box you have before
I started my install.
 

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