E-locker Axle Questions

[Run 4 Fun]

I have a few questions and can't seem to find specific answers. I found a e-locked axle 4.30 gear ratio with 150k miles on it which stated it was the whole axle for $400 which seems low. They are not available until Monday which I'm going to call to make sure it is the 3rd member and axle housing before checking it out.

My question is when I look at it, what is a good check list to do before purchasing? If everything checks out and I do purchase, should I go through and replace parts before I install in my rig? Is it worth replacing the seals even if they are not leaking because its easily accessible? My concern is replacing my perfectly good axles that only have 117k miles on them for some that have more miles and have potential problems.

Because I currently have 4.10 gears I need to figure out the front. I'm probably going to buy a front axle that already have 4.30 installed. Same goes for the front. What things should I be looking for and since I will have it already out, should I go through and replace anything?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Xinirgi]

With no first hand experience with the e-locker myself, from what I read around here and on Tacoma World is that they like to seize either open or closed. Unfortunately I don't think you'll be able to check that the actuator motor is working unless you show up with a power source and jumper harness. Other than than, check the e-brake cams aren't seized (at the back of the drums), and check the brakes. If there's any oil IN the brakes then there is a chance the axles seal is leaking. Also, since it's out already, if you do buy it it would be a great time to buff and paint it.

 

[Run 4 Fun]

With no first hand experience with the e-locker myself, from what I read around here and on Tacoma World is that they like to seize either open or closed. Unfortunately I don't think you'll be able to check that the actuator motor is working unless you show up with a power source and jumper harness. Other than than, check the e-brake cams aren't seized (at the back of the drums), and check the brakes. If there's any oil IN the brakes then there is a chance the axles seal is leaking. Also, since it's out already, if you do buy it it would be a great time to buff and paint it.

Yep I will definitely sand and paint. I just recently finished doing mine with por-15. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Front is an easy solution. I picked up a front diff for 175 shipped from deathcougar. It was in great shape and if you have a shot at the whole axle take it for 400.

What to look for with the rear axle. For 400 I would rebuild the whole axle. Parts are available as a kit from inch worm or marlin. In fact that'd what I would recommend since you will have a complete axle out from the truck. Just rebuild it period. Much easier and then you solve all issues with leaking axle seals, worn bearings, or virtually any other axle related problems. Also cheaper since you can pull the axle and take it to a machine shop where they can press the bearings and abs ring off/on.

As far as taking a look at the locker. If it is still in the axle rotate at the pinion and check for noise. There should be none and there should be no play in the gears either. That means when you turn the pinion the wheel hubs should turn immediately or very close to it. Also take a set of metric wrenches with you and pop the top of the motor. It's the round thing on the side of the diff. If the coils look good it probably works. If a milk mixture pours out you might have some cleaning to do and I would drop the price on the axle by a factor of half. If he tells you to pound sand I would walk away since he probably knows it doesn't work. The actuator is a huge expense in fact more than 400 iirc.
If he has the gears separated you can easily separate the actuator from the diff so you can inspect for damage or it being flooded and corroded.

Now here's a more serious question. Do you have abs? All elocker are ABS axles. If I am remembering right you have to have abs for the stock locker ecu to work correctly. If you don't have abs just order r he stand alone from inch worm or several individuals make them for a little less.

That's what I could come up with at this hour lol. I was typing on my phone so I apologize for typos in advance.

 

[Run 4 Fun]

Front is an easy solution. I picked up a front diff for 175 shipped from deathcougar. It was in great shape and if you have a shot at the whole axle take it for 400.

What to look for with the rear axle. For 400 I would rebuild the whole axle. Parts are available as a kit from inch worm or marlin. In fact that'd what I would recommend since you will have a complete axle out from the truck. Just rebuild it period. Much easier and then you solve all issues with leaking axle seals, worn bearings, or virtually any other axle related problems. Also cheaper since you can pull the axle and take it to a machine shop where they can press the bearings and abs ring off/on.

As far as taking a look at the locker. If it is still in the axle rotate at the pinion and check for noise. There should be none and there should be no play in the gears either. That means when you turn the pinion the wheel hubs should turn immediately or very close to it. Also take a set of metric wrenches with you and pop the top of the motor. It's the round thing on the side of the diff. If the coils look good it probably works. If a milk mixture pours out you might have some cleaning to do and I would drop the price on the axle by a factor of half. If he tells you to pound sand I would walk away since he probably knows it doesn't work. The actuator is a huge expense in fact more than 400 iirc.
If he has the gears separated you can easily separate the actuator from the diff so you can inspect for damage or it being flooded and corroded.

Now here's a more serious question. Do you have abs? All elocker are ABS axles. If I am remembering right you have to have abs for the stock locker ecu to work correctly. If you don't have abs just order r he stand alone from inch worm or several individuals make them for a little less.

That's what I could come up with at this hour lol. I was typing on my phone so I apologize for typos in advance.

Very good info! Yes I do have ABS. I'm going to see if he has the harness and any electrical that came with it. I'm really hoping it's the whole axle and not just the carrier. I'll probably have the whole winter to dive into it and don't mind spending the money to make it fresh again. Thanks again for info.

 

[xcmtb83]

If you want to be certain the actuator works bring two 6V lantern batteries with you and hook them up in series to get 12V (one good battery will work too). Then hook the leads to the green/red wire and the green wire. If nothing happens reverse the polarity. If still nothing happens rotate the axle while supplying power. If the actuator is good there will be an audible click and the axles should then be locked together. This test is easiest if the driveshaft isn't connected.

I wouldn't get too carried away with replacing everything right away unless the bearings are covered in gear lube. If the bearings check out I would throw some new OEM seals in it, remove the actuator and check for corrosion behind it and remove any dirt that may have collected over the years, clean up the exterior, paint it and be done.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

If you want to be certain the actuator works bring two 6V lantern batteries with you and hook them up in series to get 12V (one good battery will work too). Then hook the leads to the green/red wire and the green wire. If nothing happens reverse the polarity. If still nothing happens rotate the axle while supplying power. If the actuator is good there will be an audible click and the axles should then be locked together. This test is easiest if the driveshaft isn't connected.

I wouldn't get too carried away with replacing everything right away unless the bearings are covered in gear lube. If the bearings check out I would throw some new OEM seals in it, remove the actuator and check for corrosion behind it and remove any dirt that may have collected over the years, clean up the exterior, paint it and be done.

It would be a good idea to bring some jumper cables with you. Not the car size ones but the ones they sell in radio shack. I think they're 10 bucks. That way you can use the connector and just select which pins you are powering quickly.

 

[xcmtb83]

Yes, I failed to mention that. The alligator clip style.

 

[Run 4 Fun]

Yes, I failed to mention that. The alligator clip style.

Is it a common occurrence or rare that the actuator fails on these lockers?

 

[xcmtb83]

I will say it depends where you live and how much "liquid car-be-gone" is applied to the roads you drive in the winter. The only failure I have personally seen was due to corrosion.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Ditto on that. xcmtb83 has got it square on the head. On a rare occansion it is because they have flooded it by putting the diff vent underwater too many times for too long but that is not the common experience.