E-locker expert(s) needed

[OkiSurf1996]

You can always buy a magnet that has the polarities labeled on it and use it to test the ones in your actuator.

This may be a 100 pack, just using it as an example:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020...led+magnet&dpPl=1&dpID=31bVszw4pOL&ref=plSrch

 

[jeremyc74]

You can always buy a magnet that has the polarities labeled on it and use it to test the ones in your actuator.

This may be a 100 pack, just using it as an example:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0020...led+magnet&dpPl=1&dpID=31bVszw4pOL&ref=plSrch

That will work, but he's still going to be guessing at which positions the north and south poles need to go in the housing. Their orientation to the brushes will determine which way the motor spins.

Of course, if he gets it backwards he can always just reverse the polarity of the incoming power for a short term solution. If it were me I'd be looking for another actuator for the long term. It's doubtful this one is going to be as reliable as the original assembly.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I really just want to un-JB Weld the magnets that are in there now. I will be fine (I think) putting things back together if I could just get this apart without destroying the magnets.

Is there any way to buy from just the stator cover with magnets from Toyota? Part number? I have done some unsuccessful searching on Camelback.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Maybe try to burn them out?

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Maybe try to burn them out?

Hmmm, that's an idea. I was planning on using a torch to heat the whole thing up, hoping I could get some expansion changes to break the bond. Actually letting the adhesive burn might be another good idea. Thanks.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I'm back at this and still dealing with a broken e-locker, and still frustrated. I have removed the magnets and I think I got them oriented correctly. When put into a line-up, they will all attract in one orientation, so it seems I have them alternating N to S. I used epoxy to install the magnets.

With the actuator plugged in to the harness, the motor does not turn. I can go back to applying 12V directly to the actuator; that kinda scares me though. I don't know if it is meant for the full 12V.

I can't leave the locker actuator out of the diff and drive it because then it will let dirt into the diff. I don't know...

 

[Twisted Sid]

I had issues with mine in my pickup a few years ago and found a guy who had a broken actuator and bought it from him, cheap. When I got it, I modified it to be manual locking with a handle. It was kind of a pain in the ass to have to crawl under the truck to lock and unlock the axle but in doing so, I still had a locker in the rear. After it was modified, I installed it and that allowed me to take the stock one out and fix it while still having a drivable truck.

12v directly to the motor isn't an issue.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Thanks. That helps. I will go find the pin layout for the harness again and see if I can get it to turn at least.

If it won't turn with a direct connection, is there a way to diagnose further? It seems like a mostly-sealed unit once the wires leave the brushes.

 

[crowdad]

Hmmm, that's an idea. I was planning on using a torch to heat the whole thing up, hoping I could get some expansion changes to break the bond. Actually letting the adhesive burn might be another good idea. Thanks.

I have done a lot of epoxy work and a good steady heat is the best way to break down epoxy.

edit- saw you already removed magnets.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I think I have an internal short in the actuator motor...

I got some leads and wired the actuator up to the battery directly, according to the schematic below. When I touched the positive terminal, the lead sparked and seemed to want to weld itself to the terminal post. I touched it just for a second; I didn't leave it connected long enough to get hot.

Does it sound like an internal short? What other steps can I take to troubleshoot this?

 

[D Farms]

I think that motor is probably the same as many of the other drive train related actuators, on the 01-02 the add has one and also any multi mode will have one for the transfer case.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I think that motor is probably the same as many of the other drive train related actuators, on the 01-02 the add has one and also any multi mode will have one for the transfer case.

Are you saying that I might be able to source parts to rebuild this from some of the more easily found actuators?

 

[D Farms]

Are you saying that I might be able to source parts to rebuild this from some of the more easily found actuators?

yes 10char

 

[Scramble]

Are you saying that I might be able to source parts to rebuild this from some of the more easily found actuators?

Did you ever resolve this?