Eastwood internal frame coating - thoughts?

jayhat

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41 seconds in
https://youtu.be/uM_wRj_F8D8?t=41

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-14-oz-w-spray-nozzle.html

Would something like this be beneficial to apply to a newer 4Runner? I am a little paranoid about rust and want to do what I can now to prevent it in the future. Though I am not from a heavily salted area, I still like the idea of doing what I can now to extend the life of the truck and keep it in like new condition. I like the hose that allows you to get deep into the frame. Do these coatings do a pretty good job?

Thoughts?
 
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You might want to check with some of our Canadian members. Up in the areas I worked occasionally (Montreal and Toronto) there were places that offered a winter frame treatment. They would use existing holes in the frame and (depending on the vehicle) make some additional ones so they could spray an anti-rust solution. I don't know how effective it was; but a couple of local guys I worked with thought it was worthwhile. As I remember the solution was oil based but don't know for sure.
 
Bumping this as Id be interested in replies as well. My 3rd gen frame looked like swiss cheese. I dont want that to happen to my 5th gen.
 
I have used this product on both my 1999 limited and 2015 Trail. My experience is that it works if you get it installed before any rust starts to form. Once rust starts to form, I think it will only slow it down. My experience with corrosion is that you can't stop it, only slow it down. The only real way to "fix" rust is to grind/blast it off down to bare metal, prime, then paint. I installed this inside the frames and crossmembers because I know that salt/mist/spray/etc will find its way into the frame and is very difficult to wash out.
 
I doubt you really need it in a state like WA, but if your truck is new then I think it will be more effective. However, I would skip all that and go straight to Fluid Film.
 
I don't know about Tri-Cities, but west of the mountain, they rarely use salt and when they do, its mostly in the passes. I just hose off after I've been in the mountains.
 
The Eastwood stuff actually sticks to rust. I used the internal frame coating on my FJ40. It sprays at all angles, so does a good job coating. The frame coating is fairly thin, so it spreads pretty good. I'm pretty happy with the product.

The key is to tape off all the holes you aren't putting the hose in, so product does not get everywhere.

Not sure how beneficial it would be on a new 4R. Definitely won't hurt. Fluid Film would be easier to apply to a new rig.
 
To coat the inside of the frame I wouldn't think fluid film would do very well, it doesn't have a long nozzle and is only really a temporary coating that will wear away. I think this eastwood stuff is more of a permanent coating, but you could apply fluid film over top I suppose.

I have a couple cans of the eastwood internal coating that I will apply once I clean out my frame sufficiently. Following it with fluid film wouldn't hurt I suppose, it kept the outside of my frame from showing any rust over last winter.
 
It's way too hard to fully clean and prep the inside of the frame. I doubt this eastwood product is more effective than a 3.99 can of rustoleum if the frame is old. These rust from the inside out, and washing will never knock the scale off. This eastwood stuff will simply flake off once the scale does. Fluid Film wears off but an oily/waxy coating should be looked at as another maintenance procedure.
 
I plan on taking a length of cable and then tying some chains onto the end of it. It is flexible enough to bend a little. Put it in a drill and I'm hoping it will knock the scale off the inside of the frame. Then I plan on coating it.
 
I have dealt with jeep wranglers, now they have a problem with rust big time. I've seen frames rotted so bad you could break them into with a hammer. All this" in the can rust preventive " is snake oil. It will not work. If the frame is new/clean, it's not going to bond to the surface enough to do any good. Chain and a drill in a rusted frame, may help if you can get all the knocked off rot out. Spraying this stuff on rusted metal is no better than water.

The only thing will stop rust 100% is POR15. But it is mandatory to follow directions to the letter and prep the surface correctly. Properly prep and applied it is bullet proof, failure to proper prep, it will flake off in a year.
 
I restore cars as a hobby, used to do it for money. This stuff works, especially where access is limited. Make sure to coat thoroughly. I would follow up after cure with fluid film, but fluid film is temporary.

If you can gain access, look into rust encapsolator and other eastwood products. I have no affiliation with eastwood, just use their products extensively during restorations.
 
I have used this product..Here's My thoughts..The newer the truck the better. Cant hurt using it..Took 3 cans to do my 2011 4runner. Very messy ,tape off holes in frame and will run out other places on to garage floor or driveway..Try this trick when getting paint it will come with a tightly curled up tube,hang hose /tube with small weight for a few weeks to help straighten her out.Very easy to apply, but kind of messy.
 
I have used this product..Here's My thoughts..The newer the truck the better. Cant hurt using it..Took 3 cans to do my 2011 4runner. Very messy ,tape off holes in frame and will run out other places on to garage floor or driveway..Try this trick when getting paint it will come with a tightly curled up tube,hang hose /tube with small weight for a few weeks to help straighten her out.Very easy to apply, but kind of messy.

Great tip and also correct on the newer the better. I have also used heavy gauge wire taped to the hose to guide it in the center of the frame using my free hand. The hose can come off the can easily, so the wire helps with that also.
 
I bought a 2017 that came from Florida. I have a little rust starting here and there on the outside of the frame, so I bought boeshield t9 and boeshield rust remover to combat that, but I'm planning on doing the eastwood on the inside of the frame come spring.

This is the first year my 4r will see actual salt and beet juice. My last car went through an undercarriage wash every 1-2 weeks and was spotless when I sold it (2008 civic). Hopefully I can keep rust away long enough to maintain value. Thats going to be a long weekend for sure next year.
 
Thread bump. It's not about how new the vehicle is rather than how good of condition the frame is. While these two usually go hand in hand if you have a 3rd gen t4r from the mohave desert your frame is going to be A1. That's where mine is from. However, my 3rd gen has now seen two winters in Michigan. A salt state. NOW shes starting to show signs of pure surface rust. Inside still looks clean however I'm not stupid. Time to get the chain and wire method ran through PVC to keep it from getting tangled, run that bad boy through a few times wherever possible and blow it out with compressed air or a leaf blower. Prior to doing this I'm pre treating the inside of the frame with three parts ATF and one part Diesel fuel an old school trick I've learned from an old timer out here in Michigan. Keeps a frame looking mint. After these two steps Eastwood is the route I'm taking and applying more than likely once yearly. The golden rule is winter beater or die. You want to buy a winter vehicle that will turn into a rust bucket or your prized possession will turn into one of the rust eze cars off the Cars movies lol.
 

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