EatonKyleH's Build Thread

little updates.

My wife has been doing these vintage decor/craft shows for the last 2 years and started really running with it over this last year.
We've been borrowing u-haul trailers and a co-workers trailer in the past to do them but know she does them frequently enough and makes enough money at it now that we bought her a trailer. I picked this guy up on craigslist real cheap because it had a company's name, number, and logo in vinyl down both sides and the back. But it came off really really nice after a few hours with a heat gun and buffing.



It's a 7x12 foot H&H Enclosed trailer with a loading ramp back door. Tandem axle and electric brakes at all 4 wheels.

It's honestly way heavier than I should be pulling with my turd but between the manual trans and supercharger it does ok. I pulled it on a 3 1/2 hour (each way) market in Pueblo over last weekend and it did fine.
The long term plan however is not to keep pulling it with the 4Runner. My wife is going to be driving a Tundra in the not to distant future. And I'll be jealous!

I installed a brake controller where my CB used to be. I couldn't use the CB in that location anyway after the triple sticks and relocating the trans shifter. The cord was always tangled in the shifters and the trans shifter would hit the input where the handset connected. So it has been relocated.


(its a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 controller)

I also moved my air compressor and integrated the on/off switch into my cargo system. This set up has been incredible. So damn fast and I've run air tools with it just fine.



Any wheeling 2 weeks ago with the dudes. STUFFAGE.
Photo by Will (I know you are on here somewhere!)

 
I'm pretty excited about it man.

I picked up some LT off craigslist recently, I won't tell you the price or you'll hate me... But it is a tube upper and lower kit. I just wanted to pick your brain a little on why you specify boxed lowers and if I should explore a way to swap them. (I'm primarily slow and flexy stuff)

What coilovers do you plan on running? I have a set of sway-away's that need a rebuild but I also don't know anything about the valving or what the spring rate is on the coils. Bypasses or a some kind of secondary shock?

Also what other kind of upgrades are you planning to run with it? All the gussets total chaos offers? (cam, spindle, uca)

And are you doing to run some kind of shock tower brace?

Will you be doing a heim steering upgrade? I would like to but I've killed one rack on stock tire rods... so I'm pretty convinced it will keep happening...
 
I picked up some LT off craigslist recently, I won't tell you the price or you'll hate me... But it is a tube upper and lower kit. I just wanted to pick your brain a little on why you specify boxed lowers and if I should explore a way to swap them. (I'm primarily slow and flexy stuff)

What coilovers do you plan on running? I have a set of sway-away's that need a rebuild but I also don't know anything about the valving or what the spring rate is on the coils. Bypasses or a some kind of secondary shock?

Also what other kind of upgrades are you planning to run with it? All the gussets total chaos offers? (cam, spindle, uca)

And are you doing to run some kind of shock tower brace?

Will you be doing a heim steering upgrade? I would like to but I've killed one rack on stock tire rods... so I'm pretty convinced it will keep happening...

Hard to pass on a deal! Hell I don't know if I'd pass on a tube arm set if the price was right honestly.

I'm specifically after boxed lower arms because this truck gets used for crawling mainly when it is being challenged. Its always been and continues to become a rig built around camping in comfort.... dare I say "overland" (I have a thing with hot button words). But a lot of my friends are into some pretty challenging very rocky crawling and I continue to push mine through it. I've taken substantial hits to my lower control arms and my bud built skids are so bent out of shape I have put them in a press every time I reinstall them.

So for me its just a question on longevity. The tube lower arms (in my opinion) aren't built to take an impact as well as the boxed style. And the add on skid for the tube lower arms doesn't appear very substantial. I fear I'd just get in a pattern of bending tube lower LT arms due to contact. I don't know what the chances of that actually happening are or what TC/Camburg/etc would charge for a replacement but I just would like to avoid it it I can.
But like I said. A deal is a deal! I'd probably run it if you've got it and at that cheap. IF you had an issue you could always decide to sell it after.

If ol' Black Friday/Cyber Monday rolls around and I still haven't found a smoking deal on anything myself I plan to run a Camburg LT kit with King coilovers 2.5 with remote reservoir and compression adjusters. Only because I'll go all balls out at once when things are on sale. I was going to go with FOX but the hoses to the reservoirs are shorter normally than King so much so that it would affect my ideal choice in reservoir placement. Fox does offer custom hose length options but I would rather not deal with it when the Kings will do fine as they are (I just liked the Black FOX coloring not gonna lie).

Again though. I'd probably run the Sway-Aways you already have in your case because $$$ and it sounds like you don't need to go win a Baja race.

Eventually I plan to convert the lower ball joints to uniballs (weak that none of the LT kits for this truck address that) and heim steering with Solo Motorsports and use their spindles instead of the stock with gussets (because you kinda have to in order to address the lower ball joint). And I'll probably eventually brace the shock tower with TC.

Spindles:
Toyota Fully Fabricated Spindles - Solo Motorsports

Uniball LBJ/Steering:
Toyota 1" Lower Uniball & 7/8" Heim Steering Upgrade - Solo Motorsports

Adding a secondary/bypass is last on my wants list because I don't plan to jump this old pig or really dune it out. But hell someday I just might for bling factor haha.

All this stuff is a pipe dream/end goal for me that I don't plan on doing all at once. I'm fine with keeping the truck forever. I looked into buying a UTV (upwards of 20k) and all sorts of other build another rig options and really I think this would be the most fun AND the most cost effective to build this old turd to the 9s. It also leaves me with something more usable than a trailer toy ATV.

Sorry to ramble on so much! haha you asked and I figured I'd share my plans (one to0 many beers tonight). But hell. In the end I'd run what you've got unless you really want to do something else. I'm not someone that sees my way of doing things as the only way by any stretch. If I had what you have and didn't have to spend another dime I'd pound it out and see whats what.
 
So....

I want to put LT in this truck... put it on 35s..... and keep it looking kinda....eh....not super wide....and not fiberglass fender for tacoma strange.

I like very little lift. None or very little body lift and big ass tires stuffing fender wells. Don't know why. I just do. Cool. moving on.

so I've been working on modifying the rise and profile of my stock fender flares. They are about 2 1/2 inches wider than the stock fenders without fares already and I already have a front bumper built for extra width so I stared and stared at my old turd for a long time and decided I didn't want to bump stop the crap out of the LT (I mean how much travel do you have when you bump stop it! It wants to travel.....let it.)

I decided (for me) that keeping the width and look of the stock flares was what I wanted to do. I had already gutted the inside of the flares to fit and stuff the poop out of 33s with wide backspaced wheels so I took it a step further and cut them up higher in hopes that I'll jam 35s up in her butt here soon.

The cuts came out clean as the dickens (and I'm still sanding and finishing the details). My truck is usually over 2 inches taller in the rear without my gear in it (people call her "Stinkbug" all the time) Now it looks like I lifted the front to level.. but it ain't lift at all.

Cut cut cut.

BEFORE: (don't judge my floors or my coffee table.... my house is 112 year old and awesome. and that's a fact. Better homes and gardens loves it)


Measure and connect the dots:


CUT and installed:


Clean cuts:


the old turd almost looks level and is actually sitting way higher in the rear! Not going to lie. I've been thinking about doing this cut for probably about a year and wasn't sure about how it would come out (my ability to do a clean line in the plastic without screwing up and the look on the truck). But in the end I'm stoked on it.
 
Last edited:
I'll be watching this thread closely. I have very similar future plans for my 4Runner. Long travel with 35's (maybe 37's), keep it low and wide, and no goofy looking aftermarket fenders. I plan on trimming the stock fenders and fabbing custom fender flares that are higher and wider than stock flares.

Awesome thread!
 
I'll be watching this thread closely. I have very similar future plans for my 4Runner. Long travel with 35's (maybe 37's), keep it low and wide, and no goofy looking aftermarket fenders. I plan on trimming the stock fenders and fabbing custom fender flares that are higher and wider than stock flares.

Awesome thread!

Thanks man!
I'm sure you'd come up with something awesome. All your fab work comes out very clean!

I'm really happy with how the flares came out on mine! It doesn't look mismatched at all with the rear and the cuts came out better than I could have hoped for.

I had planned to cut them up higher but decided to start with removing an inch and see where that gets me. Also if I had screwed it up it would have given me a chance to figure something before cutting them higher. But I'm glad they came out right the first time. If I do wind up needing to go even higher at least I know my method for cutting them works.

Thanks again for the kind words. I'm excited to see how this turns out and I really hope to wind up with a LT truck on big ol' tires that body and width wise looks "stockish".
 
Nice work on your build. I need to forget that I ever found this thread. The triple stick turned out really nice. It actually started me looking at adapters today (missing my 71 Blazer rockcrawler)
 
Nice work on your build. I need to forget that I ever found this thread. The triple stick turned out really nice. It actually started me looking at adapters today (missing my 71 Blazer rockcrawler)

Haha thanks! These forums will spend your money for you in a hurry.

If I where to do this all over again with another 5-speed manual trans truck the dual cases would have been my first major mod. Biggest impact by far.
 
What did you use to make your cuts? They turned out super clean. This seems like a good solution to fitting larger meats without crumpling the front fenders.
 
What did you use to make your cuts? They turned out super clean. This seems like a good solution to fitting larger meats without crumpling the front fenders.

Thanks. I used a dremel with the .025 thick cutoff discs. It cuts it quickly while melting the plastic slightly on the edges but without damaging the paint. After the cut and large piece was removed I trimmed the residue off with a razor blade and it was mostly smooth. Then I installed the flare back on the truck and with sandpaper finished the edge and shape details by hand.
 
Hard to pass on a deal! Hell I don't know if I'd pass on a tube arm set if the price was right honestly.

Sorry to ramble on so much! haha you asked and I figured I'd share my plans (one to0 many beers tonight). But hell. In the end I'd run what you've got unless you really want to do something else. I'm not someone that sees my way of doing things as the only way by any stretch. If I had what you have and didn't have to spend another dime I'd pound it out and see whats what.

Awesome info! Way more than I expected!


I don't wanna say I have the capabilities to build my own LT since I don't know know to design something like that necessarily but I have a multi-process welder and I'm learning how to tig at the moment. I'm almost considering replicating these in some 1/4" plate I've got or having it all sliced up by a local fab shop. I assume I'd just have to make a jig out of what I've got and then take measurements etc and design it all out in solid works of catia (2 programs I'm somewhat familiar with).

I also looked at the solo motorsports conversion stuff but I dont really think our steering setup is worth that much work. I'd really prefer to get a different rack, maybe full hydro although I dont know much about them, and move the rack in front of the wheels. I've already killed the factory rack on 305's, and I mean killed, the internal piston/rod was bent...

But i'll keep an eye out for your updates, I have no where near enough tool to install all the LT at college so its just gonna stay in the basement for now... Summer hopefully, idk, depends on where jobs/internships take me.
 
Looks great man.

I have thought about taking my front flairs up a little higher too in hopes that I can fit 35's with new wheels (higher offset) soon.

Good to see someone else doing it.

When are the plans for getting LT installed? Have you found a boxed lower arm set up yet?

With non LT and just extended travel coils up front, have you measured the actual travel you have?

I have been curious to see how much you really gain from an extended travel stock arm setup to LT. I too have been looking at the solo spindles with lower uniball conversion and have been seriously considering those with just a stock length dual shock setup from TC with Kings. But if you are already getting 10" or so (just a guess) with the stock arms, is it really worth the extra cash to do long travel for 3" more travel? Plus given that no LT kit on the market for 3rd gens except race kits address the lower ball joint. So regardless if you get LT you still have the lower uniball conversion to consider. (Only company that addresses it is Solo)

Curious who has actually measured an extended travel stock arm setup to see actual numbers. Also, stock limited flairs would be great to use if you don't have to limit uptravel. Might have to pull my coilovers and cycle the suspension to see if I can get those numbers at some point.
 
Looks great man.

I have thought about taking my front flairs up a little higher too in hopes that I can fit 35's with new wheels (higher offset) soon.

Good to see someone else doing it.

When are the plans for getting LT installed? Have you found a boxed lower arm set up yet?

With non LT and just extended travel coils up front, have you measured the actual travel you have?

I have been curious to see how much you really gain from an extended travel stock arm setup to LT. I too have been looking at the solo spindles with lower uniball conversion and have been seriously considering those with just a stock length dual shock setup from TC with Kings. But if you are already getting 10" or so (just a guess) with the stock arms, is it really worth the extra cash to do long travel for 3" more travel? Plus given that no LT kit on the market for 3rd gens except race kits address the lower ball joint. So regardless if you get LT you still have the lower uniball conversion to consider. (Only company that addresses it is Solo)

Curious who has actually measured an extended travel stock arm setup to see actual numbers. Also, stock limited flairs would be great to use if you don't have to limit uptravel. Might have to pull my coilovers and cycle the suspension to see if I can get those numbers at some point.

Dammit Todd. You and your rational reasoning of pros/cons is making this even harder!

I don't know about you... But I'd give a lot just to gain a few inches!

Jokes Aside...I've been back and forth on those same questions for awhile. And I'm still grappling with it.

Even the Solo kit from my understanding doesn't address the LBJ. The kit just states "Combine this 14″ long-travel kit with our 3″ lift Fully-Fabricated Spindles and 1″ Lower Uniball Conversion with 7/8″ outer heims and your Tacoma’s strength and durability is greatly improved"

So it's just saying like every other kit. You could add their spindles and uni-ball fun stuff but it doesn't come with it. Lame. That and 4 1/2 inches wider per side is a stretch too far for my liking. I'm concerned enough about 3 1/2.

I have looked into Solos Mid Travel Set up because it comes with their spindles. So I could have a beefy mid travel all-uniball set up. But it seems like a ton of money for all beef with no added travel numbers than I already have.

I haven't measured the wheel travel with my current "mid-travel" set up.
But I don't doubt that Long travel is only going to gain a few inches.
But I'm also interested in gaining better CV axles and adaptability for everything fancy down the road.

I have some OE Tundra CVs and will just modify them like TC does following the link.
Project Tacoma CV Axle Install: Off-Road.com
So the upgraded axle cost isn't anything extra.

I've been considering waiting to see what Front Range comes out with
This 1996 Toyota 4Runner Proves IFS Doesn?t Have to Be Weak

I've seen this truck in person several times and its definitely interesting. I like the control arm shape but its not using longer coilovers and I'm unsure that the travel is really increased much over one of out typical mid travel setups.

In the article it claims:
"The front suspension uses control arms that are 2 1/2 inches wider per side to increase the front wheel travel from 5 to 11 inches"

I have to imagine that the 5 inches measurement was a bone stock truck with the factory control arms AND the sway bar still connected. And the after measurement is WITH the long travel kit AND the sway bar removed. So it's kind of meaningless because most of us would be coming to that kit from a "mid-travel" set up already that is probably very close to those numbers already.

I haven't found a boxed arm kit used yet. Currently waiting to see what a Black Friday sale looks like.

Soooo much to think about man and I'm not taking it lightly.
I just think if I pumped a bunch of money into running bypasses, adjusters, and so on and so on on my stock length arms I'd in the end be wanting those couple extra inches of travel. And all said and done the $2500 extra for the LT kit seems like a better starting point to build from because I'd replace my current coilovers and upper control arms if I were to go wild with the front suspension anyway.

Your thoughts?

I really appreciate you checking in Todd. I think we've had similar taste on our trucks and I use your thread for ideas often so I dig hearing your thoughts on this kinda thing.
 
Dammit Todd. You and your rational reasoning of pros/cons is making this even harder!

I don't know about you... But I'd give a lot just to gain a few inches!

Jokes Aside...I've been back and forth on those same questions for awhile. And I'm still grappling with it.

Even the Solo kit from my understanding doesn't address the LBJ. The kit just states "Combine this 14″ long-travel kit with our 3″ lift Fully-Fabricated Spindles and 1″ Lower Uniball Conversion with 7/8″ outer heims and your Tacoma’s strength and durability is greatly improved"

So it's just saying like every other kit. You could add their spindles and uni-ball fun stuff but it doesn't come with it. Lame. That and 4 1/2 inches wider per side is a stretch too far for my liking. I'm concerned enough about 3 1/2.

I would love the 4 1/2" over kit but the axle package is hard to swallow the cost on. Plus, for me it always comes back to the skinny rear track width and suuuper wide front track. Plus the amount of travel you can get in the rear without a super expensive cantilever setup and deavers (then your still not getting the full uptravel because of the body) Its appealing but as I have read on many long travel forums, the rear needs to realistically have more travel than the front to fully gain the usability out of the front. That and the 4.5 over kit would really need a full chassis cage and front end bracing to keep it in check for anything close to what, in the desert, it would really be capable of./B]


I have looked into Solos Mid Travel Set up because it comes with their spindles. So I could have a beefy mid travel all-uniball set up. But it seems like a ton of money for all beef with no added travel numbers than I already have.

My understanding from the website is that the mid travel setup still uses the factory spindle and lower ball joint unless you opt for the spindle with uniball upgrade.... Either way, the only option I have found for a lower uniball conversion is their kit that has to be paired with their spindle. A total investment of $2,550 + tax and ship. That would also assume you have a set of hubs you can send them as a core...


I haven't measured the wheel travel with my current "mid-travel" set up.
But I don't doubt that Long travel is only going to gain a few inches.
But I'm also interested in gaining better CV axles and adaptability for everything fancy down the road.

I already have Lotus axles so the better axles from a strength stand point, i'm already there. If I went long travel, I believe I could just get the tundra shafts and swap them onto the Lotus joints so hopefully some cost could be saved there.
If you are wheeling hard like you do, then yes, I can see the additional travel of LT helping more than anything. God knows I was considering the 18" 4wd race kit Solo has just to "crawl" with. However, if you want to go fast, I have a hard time believing that a well tuned bypass mid travel setup, will be any worse than a coilover only long travel setup. (thinking cost for LT +coilover trade up cost vs bypasses and maybe the spindles/uniball conversions from solo.)



I have some OE Tundra CVs and will just modify them like TC does following the link.
Project Tacoma CV Axle Install: Off-Road.com
So the upgraded axle cost isn't anything extra.

I've been considering waiting to see what Front Range comes out with
This 1996 Toyota 4Runner Proves IFS Doesn?t Have to Be Weak

I've seen this truck in person several times and its definitely interesting. I like the control arm shape but its not using longer coilovers and I'm unsure that the travel is really increased much over one of out typical mid travel setups.

In the article it claims:
"The front suspension uses control arms that are 2 1/2 inches wider per side to increase the front wheel travel from 5 to 11 inches"

I have to imagine that the 5 inches measurement was a bone stock truck with the factory control arms AND the sway bar still connected. And the after measurement is WITH the long travel kit AND the sway bar removed. So it's kind of meaningless because most of us would be coming to that kit from a "mid-travel" set up already that is probably very close to those numbers already.

My biggest thought on that truck is how he got the 4th gen front 8" diff in there.... That, and the Atlas has my interest perked. if there was a kit for swapping the front diff over, then I would be all for it.


I haven't found a boxed arm kit used yet. Currently waiting to see what a Black Friday sale looks like.

Soooo much to think about man and I'm not taking it lightly.
I just think if I pumped a bunch of money into running bypasses, adjusters, and so on and so on on my stock length arms I'd in the end be wanting those couple extra inches of travel. And all said and done the $2500 extra for the LT kit seems like a better starting point to build from because I'd replace my current coilovers and upper control arms if I were to go wild with the front suspension anyway.

Your thoughts?

And right there is the million dollar question. My thought was if I went with the spindles, uniball conversion, steering upgrade, I could then decide which avenue I wanted to pursue.

With the bypass question, @Prospectator on here mounted up 8" bypasses to a stock length arm setup with plans of maybe going LT later on.
Here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/204975-total-chaos-shock-hoop-bypass-installation.html

I am really curious because you would obviously not use all of the 8" travel with the stock arms and wouldn't, per him, get our of the rebound dampening but it offers more control and dampening than nothing at all and would be already setup to swap out some LT arms down the road and 8" coilovers without having to redo components again. The cost difference from what I have found between 6" and 8" travel bypasses is nothing so it would make sense to just get the longer if you can infact mount them up using the LT shock hoops from TC and stock arms.



I really appreciate you checking in Todd. I think we've had similar taste on our trucks and I use your thread for ideas often so I dig hearing your thoughts on this kinda thing.


Hopefully that wasn't too drawn out but I tried to touch on all points that you mentioned.

I am in the process of re evaluating my build as well. The bead locks are for sale as well as the adapters for them. Trying to get back to just a basic wheel and tire setup. A lot of it has to do with the extra weight of the beadlocks. Love them but they certainly are heavy. The rear shock setup and front setup might be getting updated at some point as well. Want more controlled travel in the rear. (Possible outboarding some 2.5" 12" travel Kings with remote resis and compression adjusters.) Front might be getting a secondary hoop with king bypasses or if nothing else, swap the coilovers with some king remote resis with compression adjusters. Main reason for thinking of switching up the setup is on road handling for towing a small pop up camper for family trips. Still want the capability offroad but need the on road stability that a killer offroad setup doesn't always offer. Hoping that the King compression adjusters will allow the "best" of both worlds.
 
Hopefully that wasn't too drawn out but I tried to touch on all points that you mentioned.

I am in the process of re evaluating my build as well. The bead locks are for sale as well as the adapters for them. Trying to get back to just a basic wheel and tire setup. A lot of it has to do with the extra weight of the beadlocks. Love them but they certainly are heavy.

I hear ya and thanks for the input Todd.
I have no doubt that dual mounted front end would soak up high speed stuff and have probably better road manners than a single coilover LT.

I don't really do high speed stuff out here and am primarily looking for more travel.

I know Prospectator recently went to a full TC LT setup.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/225371-total-chaos-suspension-upgrade.html

I guess since in my position right now where I want to upgrade the coilovers and upper control arms I currently have already.... I don't think buying high end shorter coilovers and standard length uniball upper control arms that would not transition over to a possible future LT set up really interests me much. If I had better axles, coilovers, and arms than I do that would probably be a different story.

I'm just thinking.... IF LT is the end goal shouldn't I sell what I currently have and just move that direction to start?

I feel you on the reevaluation haha. I'm always thinking its pretty much done. And then the internet speaks to me...."but you can have moooorreee"
 
I hear ya and thanks for the input Todd.
I have no doubt that dual mounted front end would soak up high speed stuff and have probably better road manners than a single coilover LT.

I don't really do high speed stuff out here and am primarily looking for more travel.

I know Prospectator recently went to a full TC LT setup.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/225371-total-chaos-suspension-upgrade.html

I guess since in my position right now where I want to upgrade the coilovers and upper control arms I currently have already.... I don't think buying high end shorter coilovers and standard length uniball upper control arms that would not transition over to a possible future LT set up really interests me much. If I had better axles, coilovers, and arms than I do that would probably be a different story.

I'm just thinking.... IF LT is the end goal shouldn't I sell what I currently have and just move that direction to start?

I feel you on the reevaluation haha. I'm always thinking its pretty much done. And then the internet speaks to me...."but you can have moooorreee"

I couldn't agree with you more given your situation. Technically you could get the long travel kit, keep your coilovers you have till you have the funds to upgrade if they had heim uppers to the 3 bolt adapter but I don't think the Toytec's do. That way you could get the majority of the kit installed and just have to swap the coilovers out when the time comes. Looks like you are stuck getting the whole kit in one swoop.

For me with camburg arms, Lotus axles, and Sway away coilovers already, aside from wanting remote resis (which is more of a want then a need) I could get away with just the secondary package and maybe have everything I really need. Then again, long travel for the articulation would be nice to have.

But then still lies the factory lower ball joint. I'm hoping once my beadlocks sell, I will be able get into a lighter wheel that will give me a little peace of mind with the lower ball joints.
 
Hey just thought I would throw this out there since I don't think there will be a better deal out there to get what you are looking for.
Just got an email notification.

SEMA & Baja 1000
Flash Sale

20% off on all Solo Motorsports Toyota MT and LT Series Suspension Kits

Valid until 11/21/16 6:00pm PT. Installation and upgrades not included.
Toyota Suspension Kits - Solo Motorsports

Take it for what you will but their boxed upper arm long travel kit would be over $500 off which is a huge savings.

Their tube upper arm LT kit would only be around $1,750.

If you were thinking about pulling the trigger, now would be the time. If you want the email link to reference, send me a PM with your email address.
:thumb3::thumb3:
 
Hey just thought I would throw this out there since I don't think there will be a better deal out there to get what you are looking for.
Just got an email notification.

SEMA & Baja 1000
Flash Sale

20% off on all Solo Motorsports Toyota MT and LT Series Suspension Kits

Valid until 11/21/16 6:00pm PT. Installation and upgrades not included.
Toyota Suspension Kits - Solo Motorsports

Take it for what you will but their boxed upper arm long travel kit would be over $500 off which is a huge savings.

Their tube upper arm LT kit would only be around $1,750.

If you were thinking about pulling the trigger, now would be the time. If you want the email link to reference, send me a PM with your email address.
:thumb3::thumb3:


Thanks for the heads up! I got that email too and its very tempting.

My main thing with Solo though is that their kits are 4 1/2 inches over per side which I think is pushing it a bit too far for my liking on the tight trails around here.

And their only kit that addresses the lower ball joint is their 18inch travel XLT kit. Which is awesome. But almost too awesome for my needs haha!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,076
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top