eBay Track Bar & rear control arms

Contemplating pulling the trigger on these. Didn't think I would need them with a ~3" lift in the rear, but after some measuring I see that my rear axle is about 1/2" off center, towards the driver side.

2 part question here.....

1: My last alignment is nearly dead even L/R, yet I always have a slight, yet annoying pull to the right, and not because of road crown, tire pressure, or seized brake. Is it possible that the rear being kicked out to the left would cause a pull to the right?

2: Anyone have a link on how-to adjust aftermarket track bar/rear arms? Or is that something the rocket surgeons at Firestone would do during an alignment?

Thanks
-Greg
 
T101 said:
Contemplating pulling the trigger on these. Didn't think I would need them with a ~3" lift in the rear, but after some measuring I see that my rear axle is about 1/2" off center, towards the driver side.

2 part question here.....

1: My last alignment is nearly dead even L/R, yet I always have a slight, yet annoying pull to the right, and not because of road crown, tire pressure, or seized brake. Is it possible that the rear being kicked out to the left would cause a pull to the right?

2: Anyone have a link on how-to adjust aftermarket track bar/rear arms? Or is that something the rocket surgeons at Firestone would do during an alignment?

Thanks
-Greg
Click to expand...

1. I'm not sure how it's possible for the rear axle to be off center since the stock arms are equal in length and not adjustable. I'd be concerned that something may be bent. I had cracks in my bushings and I still wasn't even off center when driving. How did you measure that you were 1/2" off center?

2. I have a 2" lift in the rear and I set mine to stock length using the stock arms and the bolts to line them up. I can't remember which thread it is, but someone mentioned that there's only like a 1/4" difference or something between stock arms and after market arms when at a 3" lift and it's really not even needed until you start to hit around 4" in the rear.
 
T101 said:
By placing a straight edge against the rear fenders/ over the wheel well, the driver side tire sticks out roughly 1/2" more than the passenger side.
Click to expand...

I'd put it on a flat surface and get under it and find a place on the frame to measure because you can't always rely on fenders/body work to get an accurate measurement. If your last alignment was good though, I doubt your crooked because that would show on the alignment charts. I'd get it aligned again because my bet is it's not right in the front somewhere.
 
Drunner97 said:
I'd put it on a flat surface and get under it and find a place on the frame to measure because you can't always rely on fenders/body work to get an accurate measurement. If your last alignment was good though, I doubt your crooked because that would show on the alignment charts. I'd get it aligned again because my bet is it's not right in the front somewhere.
Click to expand...

its just the geometry. the stock tracbar is designed to center the axle side to side at stock height. once you lift the truck it moves it that far up in its tarvel arc. so the axle is physically pulled to the side roughly 1/2". you put a longer one or a tracbar bracket to recenter the axle under the vehicle. all the lifted runners sit that way if you look at it.
 
CruzadoBlanco said:
its just the geometry. the stock tracbar is designed to center the axle side to side at stock height. once you lift the truck it moves it that far up in its tarvel arc. so the axle is physically pulled to the side roughly 1/2". you put a longer one or a tracbar bracket to recenter the axle under the vehicle. all the lifted runners sit that way if you look at it.
Click to expand...

Mine isn't kicked out, and it doesn't pull to either side. Didn't before the new arms/panhard, doesn't now and they're at stock lengths.
 
Drunner97 said:
Mine isn't kicked out, and it doesn't pull to either side. Didn't before the new arms/panhard, doesn't now and they're at stock lengths.
Click to expand...

thats odd, and it shouldnt pull or be off center front to back, strictly side to side. every single lifted 4runner with the stock length tracbar has had the axle off center upto 1/2"
 
grantprior13 said:
[MENTION=109596]T101[/MENTION] how are you liking them so far? feel any different than the stock ones?
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Digging them so far. I pulled my rear sway bar at the same time, so could be that, but the rear feels like it floats over stuff better. I've only done some short graded dirt road but I'll be out camping and off roading next weekend so I'll have a better idea after that.
 
Drunner97 said:
Digging them so far. I pulled my rear sway bar at the same time, so could be that, but the rear feels like it floats over stuff better. I've only done some short graded dirt road but I'll be out camping and off roading next weekend so I'll have a better idea after that.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Glad to hear your'e liking them.. Please keep us updated.. Definitely debating if I should pull the trigger on these soon.. :hail:
 
So I've been running these for a few weeks now including a camping and off roading trip. Overall, I've been pretty happy, especially off road. The rear end seems to float better and there's no binding/hitting on (almost) full flex. The only problem I've run into is with the rear uppers. The heims and bushing sleeves are set for a 19mm bolt like the rest of the rear suspension. The stock upper bolts are a 17mm bolt. 2mm difference allows for enough movement to get a clunk every time you stop/start. I'm undecided how I'm going to fix this, so for the moment I put my stock arms back in and that got rid of all noises. There is some noise on articulation from the panhard bar, but I don't think that's fixable. Otherwise I've been pretty happy. Pics are a little blurry, but you get the point.

001.jpg~original


002_1.jpg~original
 
Drunner97 said:
So I've been running these for a few weeks now including a camping and off roading trip. Overall, I've been pretty happy, especially off road. The rear end seems to float better and there's no binding/hitting on (almost) full flex. The only problem I've run into is with the rear uppers. The heims and bushing sleeves are set for a 19mm bolt like the rest of the rear suspension. The stock upper bolts are a 17mm bolt. 2mm difference allows for enough movement to get a clunk every time you stop/start. I'm undecided how I'm going to fix this, so for the moment I put my stock arms back in and that got rid of all noises. There is some noise on articulation from the panhard bar, but I don't think that's fixable. Otherwise I've been pretty happy. Pics are a little blurry, but you get the point.
Click to expand...

What is the width of the sleeve? There might be an off the shelf solution.
 
I ordered my set for the 3rd gen and upon arrival I hope they work out! We will see if my set comes with the same sized sleeve.
 
av8ter said:
What is the width of the sleeve? There might be an off the shelf solution.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look. You would have to replace the sleeves and the heims to work with the stock bolt. Might be easier to grind out the stock mounts to fit the 19mm bolt instead.
 
Drunner97 said:
I'll have to look. You would have to replace the sleeves and the heims to work with the stock bolt. Might be easier to grind out the stock mounts to fit the 19mm bolt instead.
Click to expand...
Honestly I think you're way better off just going with new hardware instead!! Finding that sleeve, repressing it in, etc. Pointless!
 
dkyleb said:
Honestly I think you're way better off just going with new hardware instead!! Finding that sleeve, repressing it in, etc. Pointless!
Click to expand...

Finding the hardware is the easy part, making the mounting holes big enough without getting too crazy is the hard part. Especially on the driver side, there isn't much room to get in there with a drill.
 
Drunner97 said:
Finding the hardware is the easy part, making the mounting holes big enough without getting too crazy is the hard part. Especially on the driver side, there isn't much room to get in there with a drill.
Click to expand...
Die grinder with a 90 head would probably work. Juat sucks if you make the hole too big or out of round, you'll have the same problem all over again! Haha.
 
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