This weekend I installed a complete set of EBC sport rotors and green stuff pads. The upgrade went pretty easy until I couldn’t compress the frozen pistons in my front calipers. I ended up having to purchase new calipers which I picked up at Advance Auto. I didn’t want the bother of rebuilding the calipers. Measuring runout on rotors that are dimpled and slotted is a pain and hard to get a good measurement but hopefully I got the rotors mounted with the runout within spec. I bled the front brakes and the rear just to get new fluid in the lines. Now I’m just waiting for them to bed in. I’m a little disappointed with the initial performance but I’ve only got 50 miles on them right now. Does anyone else have experience with these type of pads and rotors? Is it normal during the initial bed in that brake performance is poor?
EBC Brake Upgrade
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Right now they don't stop very well at all. I'd have to say they're much worse than stock pads and rotors. They get very hot too for light urban driving. I imagine this is all due to not being bed in yet. They do look nice but the black anodizing has to be worn off on the rotor surface for the brakes to work in addition to getting bed in. If I really get on the brakes hard it does seem to work beter but I have to push the pedal way down. The fact that they're getting so hot under light driving has to mean they're not bed in and not grabbing like they should. Like I said I only have about 50 miles on them. The instructions say after 200 miles of light urban driving commence the final bed in by decelerating from 60 to 20 at least five times. I'm guessing that means hard braking. They don't make any noise at all. They're nice and quiet and smooth.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Right now they don't stop very well at all. I'd have to say they're much worse than stock pads and rotors. They get very hot too for light urban driving. I imagine this is all due to not being bed in yet. They do look nice but the black anodizing has to be worn off on the rotor surface for the brakes to work in addition to getting bed in. If I really get on the brakes hard it does seem to work beter but I have to push the pedal way down. Did you bleed the brakes? With the key on the whole time? The T4R has an electric brake booster and getting a good bleed is virtually impossible with the key off.The fact that they're getting so hot under light driving has to mean they're not bed in and not grabbing like they should. Like I said I only have about 50 miles on them. The instructions say after 200 miles of light urban driving commence the final bed in by decelerating from 60 to 20 at least five times. I'm guessing that means hard braking.Yes, hard braking, ideally to the onset of fade. What's critically important is to do it in the country, late at night.:wtf: You want to be able to a half-dozen 60-20's then drive for 5-10minutes without stopping. The goal is to get the rotor temp back to a more normal range with a very even cooling process that can only be achieved by rolling with no braking. They don't make any noise at all. They're nice and quiet and smooth.
Good luck and be sure to update us
:cheers:
qballjr13
New member
I went to do my EBC upgrade this weekend and ran into a frozen piston as well. I am using Green Stuff pads and EBC blank rotors. I need to get new calipers (AGAIN) before I do the change over. I put it all back the way it was until I can get them.
Can I ask how much Advanced charged for remanufactured calipers? And how long it took them to get the calipers?
Can I ask how much Advanced charged for remanufactured calipers? And how long it took them to get the calipers?
What year 4R do you have? Ive been hearing of too many seized calipers for my comfort level. Im thinking of doing this myself next year too.
In a word yes. I still have stock brakes on mine, but on other vehicles Ive upgraded there is an improvement in braking distance(feeling wise anyway), less dust, less fade, and supposedly lower temps although I havent personally experienced the latter. My personal experience lies with Hawk HPS pads in particular over several Nissan 350Z's.
midnight runner
New member
Bed it in harder. 60-5mph 10 times for 1 set. 3 sets total. Usually i do 2. 3rd one isn't as important for street cars. Press the pedal down until right before abs starts to kick in.
Most ppl don't bed in brakes hard enough. Get the brakes to green fade. No pun intended. Try not to come to a complete stop during the process. The heat will transfer pad material to the rotor. A stop and hold of the brakes will transfer more material to one spot on the rotor, and that continues to grow as time goes on. if you do have to come to a complete stop, continue the bed in and that spot should smoothen out. Let it cool, and it's solidified there.
let us know how the brakes feel after the harder bed-in.
Most ppl don't bed in brakes hard enough. Get the brakes to green fade. No pun intended. Try not to come to a complete stop during the process. The heat will transfer pad material to the rotor. A stop and hold of the brakes will transfer more material to one spot on the rotor, and that continues to grow as time goes on. if you do have to come to a complete stop, continue the bed in and that spot should smoothen out. Let it cool, and it's solidified there.
let us know how the brakes feel after the harder bed-in.
I'm originally from WV so when I go home there's a lot of hilly, twisty roads and sustained driving on these roads (i drive kinda fast too) I'd experiance really bad brake fade as the brakes would over heat. I also felt that the stopping power was kind of weak under normal driving conditions if I had to do an emergency stop it wouldn't even come close to trying to lock up the brakes. So the next brakes are supposed to out perform the old one not only in stoping power but also with reduced dust and lest fade. I researched the brakes I choose and read a lot of reviews and went with the EBC's. But if you're happy with the brake performance of your car then that's cool too.
I have a 2004 Sport.
When I get a few more miles on the brakes I'll try the harder bed in as suggested. I haven't done any hard stops yet. I'm still taking it easy as the instructions say for the first 200 miles. I'm at 110 right now.
I have a 2004 Sport.
When I get a few more miles on the brakes I'll try the harder bed in as suggested. I haven't done any hard stops yet. I'm still taking it easy as the instructions say for the first 200 miles. I'm at 110 right now.
offshorebear
New member
That black finish needs to be worn off before they will work well. I don't understand why they sell rotors with a finish on the contact surface. I guess it looks better on the shelf and its probably cheaper to just cover the whole thing.
I don't have much of a problem with the stock brakes, but when I wear them out I will replace with an upgrade.
I don't have much of a problem with the stock brakes, but when I wear them out I will replace with an upgrade.
qballjr13
New member
Yep, same as me. 13WH
qballjr13
New member
Bedding New Pads
I should have looked this up when I first read this thread. These are the bedding instructions from EBC's website
1. How to bed in your new brakes
Drive your vehicle steadily within the first 300-400 miles of road use only using the brakes violently in case of emergency. During this time use the brakes lightly and intermittently to achieve a matching between the pad and rotor which we call break in or bed in.
The speed with which perfect brake in will have occurred depends on how often the brakes are used. If you drive on a freeway or motorway and do not use your brakes for miles at a time, break in periods will be much longer. Using the brakes with caution during their early life will extend their wear life and greatly reduce the chances of rotor vibration or “shimmying” as it is known in the States. During the bed in time the pads will only contact the disc on a limited area until tiny irregularities in machining or misalignment of the pads against the rotor have been removed. You can easily see how far you have progressed with bedding in your new brakes by looking through the wheel spokes and evaluating pad contact. The rotor should look shiny and smooth across its surfaces from outside to inside in all areas of the rotor. If you have purchased EBC gold zinc or black zinc coated sport slotted rotors, all of these coatings should have been visibly removed across the entire braking area of the rotor. Break in times on European vehicles is usually considerably longer than on Asian or US built vehicles because of the design of the brake system. European vehicles use a “taller” brake pad and may tend to contact on the outer edges of the rotor first and gradually contact more towards the centre of the axle over the first few hundred miles. After you are confident that the pads and discs are perfectly mated, use the brakes on a quiet and safe road 5-6 times at medium pressure bringing the car from 60mph to 10mph. Drive the vehicle for a few miles to allow the brakes to cool and repeat this procedure. During this final break in a brake odour will almost certainly appear and this is perfectly normal. This is known as green fade where the surface resins within the pad finally cure and burn off.
This bed in procedure is for STREET driving only. For race use bed in please see notes inside the package.
I should have looked this up when I first read this thread. These are the bedding instructions from EBC's website
1. How to bed in your new brakes
Drive your vehicle steadily within the first 300-400 miles of road use only using the brakes violently in case of emergency. During this time use the brakes lightly and intermittently to achieve a matching between the pad and rotor which we call break in or bed in.
The speed with which perfect brake in will have occurred depends on how often the brakes are used. If you drive on a freeway or motorway and do not use your brakes for miles at a time, break in periods will be much longer. Using the brakes with caution during their early life will extend their wear life and greatly reduce the chances of rotor vibration or “shimmying” as it is known in the States. During the bed in time the pads will only contact the disc on a limited area until tiny irregularities in machining or misalignment of the pads against the rotor have been removed. You can easily see how far you have progressed with bedding in your new brakes by looking through the wheel spokes and evaluating pad contact. The rotor should look shiny and smooth across its surfaces from outside to inside in all areas of the rotor. If you have purchased EBC gold zinc or black zinc coated sport slotted rotors, all of these coatings should have been visibly removed across the entire braking area of the rotor. Break in times on European vehicles is usually considerably longer than on Asian or US built vehicles because of the design of the brake system. European vehicles use a “taller” brake pad and may tend to contact on the outer edges of the rotor first and gradually contact more towards the centre of the axle over the first few hundred miles. After you are confident that the pads and discs are perfectly mated, use the brakes on a quiet and safe road 5-6 times at medium pressure bringing the car from 60mph to 10mph. Drive the vehicle for a few miles to allow the brakes to cool and repeat this procedure. During this final break in a brake odour will almost certainly appear and this is perfectly normal. This is known as green fade where the surface resins within the pad finally cure and burn off.
This bed in procedure is for STREET driving only. For race use bed in please see notes inside the package.
12guns
New member
Found this old thread through google and was wondering how the pads/rotors turned out after more driving??
I am upgrading my pads and rotors. I already have some Hawk pads, but can't decide on what rotor to buy! I've been looking at EBC, and a couple different brands of cryo treated rotors. How are your EBC's?? Thanks
I am upgrading my pads and rotors. I already have some Hawk pads, but can't decide on what rotor to buy! I've been looking at EBC, and a couple different brands of cryo treated rotors. How are your EBC's?? Thanks
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